7/31/08 Portneuf, QC

118.4km/5735km

The thunderstorm last night, besides pounding us with a heavy downpour, had thunder that seemed to rumble forever. Unlike the other night time storms, the rain definitely wasn't finished by the time we hit the road.

Finally saw a big ship on the river

It seems the closer we get to Quebec (the city), the more 'foreign' everything is becoming. The houses and towns have a European feel. All across Canada you see the red maple-leaf flag of the country but not here. Here we only see the Quebec provence flag. This must also be a very Catholic provence too. Even the smaller towns have huge churches that seem to overpower the surroundings. And we've seen dozens if not more, religious statues in people's yards from small garden-size to full life-size figurines.

Just in someone's yard

I think we only rode an hour before the rain started to come down on us in Trois-Rivieres. To add to that, we were riding into a headwind all day. We must have missed one of the route markers because we came in straight by the highway. Not always a fun thing when it's raining.

In Cap-de-la-Madeleine we saw the strangest cathedral, the Notre-Dame du Cap. If anything, that really showed us we are in a foreign country.

Notre Dame du Cap

More farmland and riverbank views on our ride but also more rain. In fact, it didn't stop till we reached the Camping Panoramique in Portneuf.

Tonight's campground is the total opposite of yesterdays. This is one of these camping cities with hundreds of RVs in not more. We met a few more cyclists camping here though. Yan is from Montreal and is biking up to Gaspe.

It's also getting harder to meet people who speak English. I don't think it's because the Quebecers don't speak English, I just don't think they get much practice. Even their worst English is still better than my French.

Tomorrow if the weather is nice, we might ride through the old-quarter of Quebec city.

7/30/08 Louiseville, QC

130.8km/5616km

Most travelers who are exposed to the elements like hikers and cyclists, I think get a little too obsessed with the weather. I mean, you gotta' go out there and hike or bike whether it's bad weather or not. My motto is just look up - if it's sunny just enjoy it. And if it's cloudy just know that it will be sunny again soon.

We got an early start out of the city but we didn't really need to. We only had to ride three blocks where we joined a bike route that took us out of Montreal. I am still amazed that we could ride through a major city almost entirely on bike paths, bike lanes and designated bike streets.

A place where we were immensely grateful for the bike paths was through the industrial area with it's huge trucks. And what should we find but another Tim Horton's so Mike could get his coffee fix. [smile]

We are now following the 'Route Verte 5" from Montreal to Quebec. Mike picked up a detailed guide with maps from Velo Quebec. Just like the great bike paths and lanes, the guide has everything a cyclist would want to know. And the routes are completely signed on the roads.

Roads for cars and bikes

Mostly it was a real easy day but with rain clouds threatening everywhere we turned. We have followed the river but we also went through farm country too. Again saw lots of old farms still being loved and cared for.

Beautiful farm house

We stopped for a quick bite to eat at a little one-woman food diner in Berthierville. A few guys asked about trip but didn't speak English. The woman behind the counter helped us order through our atrocious bad French. While eating, who should ride up but Greg and Tara. It was good to see them again and compare trip stories.

It was a great ride as we went through Saint-Viateur and if you ever get to Saint-Barthelemy, stop at the antiques store just before you get to the center of town (wish I got a picture).

Wonderful colors

I think both Mike and I are a little nervous about riding through Quebec and not speaking French. I'm sure I'm was more anxious to get to our campground early and preferably before it started raining.

Camping et Marina Louiseville is five kilometers off-route but well worth the ride. It is one of the best campgrounds we've stayed at. To be listed in the 'Route Verte' guidebook, the campground has to agree to have a covered shelter for the cyclists to eat their meals, bike tools for minor repairs and also guarantees not to turn any cyclist away. Our campsite is near the main building with new spotless showers. The tents sit on a wonderful carpet of grass. And I'm sitting here writing this in the recreation room. I highly recommend this place, besides the extra kilometers is very flat, no effort at all to get here.

A great campsite

7/29/08 Montreal, QC

0km/5485km

Had trouble getting to sleep but slept pretty well. I spent the morning walking in the Old Quarter near the Pier. Most of the morning the skies were covered with dark clouds but with patches of blue skies and sunshine. I followed a recommended walking route but not sure what it was supposed to show me as I found it pretty dull. The clouds didn't help and also the fact that it was trash day. Kind of hard to take a good picture with trash bags piled up everywhere.

Montreal skyline

With all of these kinds of trips, it is so hard to get to know a place in one day. I can see it and even smell it but there is no way to get underneath that to the real city. I know Montreal has a lot of energy, lots of life. The streets are filled with beautiful women but also the homeless, panhandlers and the mentally ill. Everyone seems to slip from French to English and back with ease. It's a great bike city with dedicated bike lanes, bike poles to lock up and flat enough that anyone young or old can bike. It has a lot of old architecture mixed with new. Took lots of pictures of churches.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Bike lane

One side in English, the other in French, same box

Mike found a great place to eat, a food court in part of the underground city. While he ran more errands, I went back downtown to see "HellBoy: The Golden Army". Good movie by the way. I walked back through the "Les FrancoFolies de Montreal" which is a music festival running all week that celebrates French-language music. And the surprise is that the clouds are gone and the skies clear. But we're looking at rain tomorrow night. Yippie!!!

Lots of free music

7/28/08 Montreal, QC

82.1km/5485km

The one great thing about having a windy campsite, our tents were almost dry this morning despite the rain last night.

But it was shaping up to be a beautiful sunny morning as we set out on the bike path that followed an old canal. We saw a few people but for the most part, we had it all to ourselves.

Following the canal

After crossing two more bridges, each with shielded bike lanes, we were back on the roads that followed the waterfront. the little shopping areas in the villages reminded me of Europe, while the stately homes reminded me of Mission Hills back home.

Tin Horton's in French

Then we were on another bike path, this time following a working canal directly into Montreal. I just couldn't believe how many people were on the bike path during the weekday. Several times I almost caused major bike pileups just because I didn't know how to deal with all the cyclists, rollerbladers and joggers.

More bike paths right into the heart of Montreal

Tourist Information found us a room at the Hotel Elegant in the Latin Quarter (that was cheaper than the hotel we had in Winnipeg or Marathon, and had free internet too).

The city of Montreal is amazing, too much for my words to describe or pictures to do it justice. Everything feels alive, really alive. So many young people or young at heart. there are dedicated bike lanes on the major streets and they are used alot. Old architecture mixes with new. Maybe it's just overloading my senses.

We tried to go see a movie but it was dubbed in French. On the way back to the hotel we got hit by a thunderstorm and ended up hiding in a covered bus stop until it passed. Which is kind of funny!

Taking refuge at a bus stop during the deluge

Mike has a few errands to run on our day off tomorrow but mostly I think I'll just wander and take in the sights.

Here's our route so far: 5500km/3400miles

7/27/08 Coteau de Lac, Quebec

167.6km/5403km

I didn't sleep well last night but it was my own fault. No, it didn't rain. But next to us were two young guys with too much beer and too little maturity, so I thought there was going to be problems. Either I slept through them or they didn't happen. Silly me.

The town was big enough to have a Tim Horton's but we got there too early as it wasn't open. We grabbed some danishes at the local 24-hour grocery store before heading out of town (there was a line forming outside of Tim Horton's by the time we passed it again).

Another cool house

Traffic was very light since it was early Sunday morning. We had blue skies and mostly a tail wind all day as we kept following the Waterfront Trail. I'm sorry to say that the towns all blended together in my mind: Maitland, Riverview Heights, Prescott, Johnstown, Cardinal, Iroquois, Morrisburg and Ingleside.

It was a beautiful day and I wondered what it would be like to live on the river like these people. I mean it seemed that every food of the riverbank had a house or a dock or both. There were a few cottages but mostly there were very nice houses, some even mansions. And in the sunshine, everything looked great.

What a beautiful day!

In Ingleside, our route took us onto the Long Sault Parkway that ties eleven islands together and is also a park. It was a great ride and we saw tons of people out riding there bikes, including a women's fitness group. They asked Mike to take there picture and were excited to talk to him about the trip.

From here, we had a glorious bike path that wound it's way to Cornwall. It's still amazing to think that across this thin stretch of water (the St Lawrence River) is the shore of New York.

What a great bike path into Cornwall

As is our habit, we stopped to grab a bite to eat in town, then rejoined the bike path as it hugged the shoreline. Soon after leaving Cornwall, we ended up on the road again but with a bike lane designated shoulder.

We decided to bypass several campgrounds and finally leave Ontario by entering the provence of Quebec. And it was like we stepped into another country.

Finally out of Ontario and onto Quebec

The first thing I noticed was the highway sings were first written in French with English underneath if at all. Then we joined one of Quebec's bike routes, la route verde 5. It was amazing! It was a road unto itself with passing/no passing lines, it's own shoulder separating us from the road and even upright reflective pylons to protect us from traffic. If bike paths are all like this in Quebec, Mike and I have gone to biker heaven.

The Taj Mahal of bike paths

The other thing was language. In the last few days, we've overheard people speaking French, but just as we crossed the line today, it's the language spoken by everyone everywhere.

With little knowledge of French (so we couldn't ask for directions) we opted for the first campground we saw which was on the Canal de Coteau Canal. I could tell the young guy behind the counter wasn't used to getting English-speaking campers but we communicated pretty well.

We have a great little (actually, it's really huge) tent site right on the water. Soon after we got set up, our camp neighbor Roger came over to chat. His first words were French but soon he switched to English with ease. He too is a cyclist having done a few short bike touring trips in Quebec. Roger said after he retired, he'd like to do a bit of what we're doing. Such a nice guy.

A great campsite

Over the canal is a wooden footbridge which was a great meditation spot tonight. I could hear the waves lapping up against the boats while feeling the stiff breezes pushing me this way and that, all the while watching my breathing instead of getting too wrapped up in my thoughts.

A campground with boat moorings

Tomorrow we enter Montreal like last minute guests. We don't have any reservations so not even sure we'll get a place at the hostel. We're way ahead of schedule so we'll take another day off here. I know I can get the website/blog updated at last.

And I fell asleep with the sound of rain dancing on the tent for yet another night. [smile]

7/26/08 Brockville, ON

132.2km/5236km

The winds kept howling all night so maybe that's why I kept waking up. Finally I just gave up and started to pack. The skies looked clear but off to the east I saw red. What's the saying "Red at night, sailors delight, red at morning, sailors take warning." I don't want to jinx it but I'm not hopeful.

The route took us along what is now the St Lawrence River. We had almost no traffic as we headed out (probably because of the ferry schedule). We stopped for a bit of breakfast at a gas station slash bistro in Bath. Actually, the carrot cake muffins were great.

About the only big ship we saw

As I thought, the views were a bit muted because the skies had become overcast. The Waterfront Trail swung us around Kingston hugging the shoreline. And we saw Greg and Tara again. They were staying in town to find something to eat while we pushed on.

Greg & Tara

But, years ago, I had heard of a brewery that had a beer called Dragon's Breath Ale and it turns out is here. The Kingston Brewing Company was right downtown, only a half block from our route but they didn't open for another several hours. Mike convinced me to go around back and see if anyone would sell me one of the Dragon's Breath t-shirts. Reluctantly I head off in search of the holy grail. And came out smiling. Now all I have to do is find a post office to mail it home.

With my very own Dragon's Breath t-shirt

All day we rode past a few runners but also several dozen cyclists. It was amazing to see so many in one place but I guess it was Saturday and it was a good road for a touring ride.

Soon we started to get a few sprinkles but nothing to worry about. Mike picked a deli in Gananoque for lunch but ended up ordering breakfast instead. Mike loves his 'breaky'.

Beautiful old homes in Gananoque

Just outside of town we turned onto the 1,000 Island Parkway which has a bike path that went for 35km (22 miles). Even though it wasn't on the water-side of the road, it was better anyway because the road didn't have a shoulder at all.

Two of the thousand islands

The deluge hit us soon after Rockport. And I mean deluge. There was little to do other than put on our rain jackets and keep on going. It rained and it rained but I smiled. To my surprise I didn't mind. It was warm enough that it really seemed like a summer shower. The bike path ended and we were back on the highway again.

Eventually we saw a gas station with a bunch of motorcycles waiting out the rain, so we pulled in to join them. They wee all from Quebec speaking a very different type of French to me. They asked us questions about the trip and later wished us "bon voyage."

I think we must have waited out the storm under the awning for about two hours but it did finally pass. So we rode on into Brockville as the sun came out briefly.

At first the campground host said they were full but we convinced him we could tent near the parking lot. It's a small city-run park with very few sites, RV or tent, although it did have a canteen where we got some sandwiches. And as I write I think more rain clouds are moving in overhead.

Lots of folks having fun on the river

Mike thinks we'll be in Montreal on Monday.

7/25/08 Adolphustown, ON

107.9km/5103km

Woke up to blue skies. Yippie! We both must have been tired (or we got a full night's sleep without being interrupted by storms) because we didn't roll out of the tents until 6:30am.

We left town and headed back down to the lakeshore to once again follow the Waterfront Trail. For the most part it was pretty flat. Lake Ontario seemed to pop in and out of our vision over our right shoulder all day. Lots of lakefront homes but everything looked new or at least newer. No more old farm houses.

In Wellington we stopped for a burger at the Orchard Drive Dari Bar. A few older ladies asked about our trip so far. "I don't even have that many kilometers on my car!" she said about our mileage. It was a great place to stop as we had a good view of the lake. And the food was good too, especially the vanilla milkshakes. Mmm.

That was a good lunch, and with a view too

We stopped to check out the Bloomfield Bicycle Company. Such a cool shop, just like the ACME Bicycle Company shop back home in Kansas City. There was a sign over the entrance that read "If you're in a hurry you're in the wrong place." When I started to talk to K.T. about my bike being made by two women frame builders, she grew estatic. She couldn't wait to pull up their website on the computer. It was great talking to K.T. and Adam because they really knew exactly what it was like to be a touring cyclist. I could have stayed all day to chat but there was a fierce tailwind and more kilometers calling our name.

A great bike shop!!!

We had to take the ferry to keep on Hwy-33. Most of the route today also followed the Loyalist Parkway. After the American Revolution, the King granted land all along this part of Ontario to those who kept their loyalty to the crown and escaped from the colonies. The Queen herself even christened this route back in the 1980's.

Catchin' the ferry

We are staying at the UEL Heritage Centre & Park which is the very first place we've come across in seven weeks of camping that gave touring cyclists a discount, only 12$ for the both of us. And even as I write this at dinner time, the skies are still blue with not a cloud in sight. Yippie!

While trying in vain to upload my pictures from the last few days, up rolled Greg and Tara. They're out for a short trip to Ottawa, with the hopes of doing a cross-Canada trip when they feel more confident. They picked a great first day on the road with sunshine and a tailwind. We wished them safe travels.

Camp Wisdom: One thing I might remind folks is that when it is windy, make sure all flammable items are far away from the camp stove when lit. For example butane lighters. Did you know that they can explode in a fiery ball of flame that just might singe all the hair off your arm? Oops. That was kind of exciting.

7/24/08 Grafton, ON

160.5km/4996km

Rained pretty hard last night but it seemed like it might clear up when we left the campground this morning.

It really is quiet biking on these country roads but there is one drawback. Unlike other roads, most country roads follow the survey lines. So, instead of flowing with the contours of the land, it just goes up and over no matter how steep. It seemed when we went east, it was all up and down, and when we went south, it was mostly flat.

The sun did come out at times but there were still a lot of clouds up there. We saw more farm houses that could be in one of those glossy coffee-table magazines. You could tell that not only were they doing well with the farm, but they took care of it like they still loved it. We were surrounded by corn and wheat fields all day. Most of the wheat looked like it could be ready to harvest any day now, if only it would stop raining for a bit.

Lots of nice farms

We had some great donuts in Uxbridge at Bredin's Bakery. Some sugar to give me a kick start on those hills.

On Middle Road we passed the strangest sight, a guy on a giant unicycle. So, I road up ahead and stopped to take his picture. Duncan rides a unicycle with a 36" wheel as he is one tall fellow. He said he has done 30,000km on this unicycle, averaging 40km a day. Duncan really wants to try and unicycle across Canada some day soon but he's still looking for a sponsor.

Duncan, the Unicycle Man

As we neared Oshawa, dark clouds were already forming. We ducked into the first food joint we saw just as the first drops of rain started coming down. The gang at Pizza Pizza (on Liberty were amazed that we had biked this far. We decided to just stay inside and eat while waiting out the thunderstorm raging outside. It turned out to be a great idea.

Soon we were riding alongside Lake Ontario, watching the latest storm far out on the water. We were following what they call the Waterfront Trail which winds you along the lake front and away from the major roads. It was a great ride.

Fierce storms ahead

As we approached Cobourg we could see one doozy of a thunderstorm ahead of us and another on it's way. By the time we reached town, the first storm had passed through, but the other was way too close. So we went and hid in the Mall in Cobourg just as the second one hit. And hit it did, lots.

Taking shelter from the deluge

But like earlier, when we emerged from our hiding place, the sun was out. The roads were still pretty wet, but it was nice not to be soaked to the bone for once. The Waterfront Trail wound it's way through some very exclusive parts of Cobourg, including the Yaht Club. Eventually we left the trail so we could make it more directly to the campground.

We're at the Cobourg East Campground in Grafton. They're very nice folks here. It's still damp everywhere but we got set up and went to use the internet in the office. Having trouble with uploading the pictures. But able to check my email okay.

Today was full of milestones (or at least close milestones): We passed 3000-miles, we almost passed 5000-km and we almost did another 100-mile day. Feeling pretty good. Yeah, despite the rain. [smile]

7/23/08 Mount Albert, ON

132.2km/4835km

It was raining when we got up. And it was raining when we packed. It was even raining when Suz made us blueberry pancakes for breakfast. It was hard to say goodbye to Suz and that didn't have anything to do with the rain.

Mike had a route that stair-stepped it's way southeast. We've left behind the busy highways and big trucks. This morning was all quiet country roads where we passed lots of good-looking farms. Even the little towns looked healthy. I'd have taken pictures if it hadn't been raining.

Part of our ride out of Collingwood included quite a big chunk of dirt and gravel because of construction. Our feet were covered with mud while you could hear the bike gears crunch because they were covered with dirt. Soon after that, Mike's rear tire blew-out.

The rain finally let up but started again after we had lunch in Cookstown. As if that wasn't bad enough, we rode through the rain through part of the urban sprawl of Toronto. There were so many chain stores and traffic, we got lost for a stretch. And the drivers had no patience for two cyclists trying to share the road.

At the Ponderosa Campground the rain stopped only long enough for us to put up the tents. Later Melissa and Dan, who were camped next do us, invited us to come over, share their fire and have some dinner and conversation. It was very relaxing.

Melissa & Dan

It's sprinkling now and more rain forecasted for the whole week. Yippie! I'm pretty tired but I feel good today.

7/22/08 Collingwood, ON

0km/4702km

Even though I was inside with the air conditioning on, I still woke up when the rain really started coming down outside. I was so glad my tent was put away and dry.

This morning Suz loaded up all the kids and we went for breakfast in the downtown. It was a thriving neighborhood of boutiques and galleries mixed in with regular businesses.

Halli is always full of giggles

Mostly I tried to do nothing today. After a quick lunch we all went to Wasaga Beach which is the longest freshwater beach in the world. It was nice, even when the clouds stormed in and we hid under the beach umbrella during a deluge.

The kids enjoying the beach

When Suz found out I had been carrying my running shoes since Vancouver but hadn't run in them, she thought it would be great if I joined her for a run. Tonight was the first week of a training run sponsored by Collingwood Running Company. Turns out the first run was five kilometers. I did okay but not as good as I expected.

Finished the evening with pizza with the whole family. It has been so good to see Suz again and to catch up with her. She hasn't changed a bit since I knew her on the Appalachian Trail. And her husband Richard and the kids Halli and Duncan were the icing on the cake.

Richard, Halli, Suz's brother Kevin, Suz & Duncan

7/21/08 Collingwood, ON

115.3km/4702km

About the time I fell asleep, the rain started to come down and lasted most of the night. The poor tents never really had a chance to dry out a bit.

Like most mornings, the clouds looked like we could get a bit more rain before the day was out. It even sprinkled a little on us as we rode out of town just as a little reminder.

A local had told us to take the longer road that skirts the shoreline instead of taking the direct highway route and his recommendation was perfect. There was no climbing that we noticed and it was great to see the water and the homes and cottages along the way. We saw very few cars but did see a few out walking the dog and even a few on bikes.

Ran into a bit of construction as we neared Owens Sound. The town itself looked pretty healthy but traffic was a bit of mess. We had to make a series of steep climbs to get out of town, and had to do a few more. Still, the clouds wouldn't go away and I kept my rain gear handy.

Who should we see coming the other way but another cyclists. Michael is from the Cayman Islands do a 1500km tour in Ontario. He said we were the first cyclists he'd met. It was great to hear the enthusiasm in his voice as he talked about this his first bike tour and he was full of questions about ours.

Michael from the Cayman Islands

Soon, the road descended back down to the shore and we had a fast ride to Meaford where we got a quick lunch. It was still crazy cold with misting rain. But as soon as we left town, the weather changed that fast, that we had to put on sunscreen. The road was terrible and traffic increasing, so when we saw a bike path, we got on it as fast as we could find.

Headed down to Maeford with clouds overhead

We found ourselves on the Georgian Trail, a rails-to-trail route from Meaford to Collingwood. It was wonderful, a lot smoother than the highway and quiet. It was a great ride and we saw tons of more folks out riding there bikes which surprised us since it was a weekday.

Mike on the Georgian Trail

Collingwood looked a lot different than it did nine years ago when I visited with lots of big stores like Walmart. Mike's GPS got us to the Suzanne's house with no problem and she was outside with her kids when we got there.

I knew Suzanne by the trail name of Veto the year we walked the Appalachian Trail in 1998. We walked almost the entire southern half of the trail together. I came to Collingwood the next year for a visit. We sort of lost track of each other when she emailed me after she had her second child, a son named Duncan. So it was great that our route came through Collingwood so I could see her again and catch up.

Duncan with his mom Suzanne

They live in a great old house that their adding too which is needed with two kinds, Duncan and their three year old Haily. Her husband Richard has another daughter who spends half her time here with them too. Suz decided to have a barbecue and her brother Kevin came over too. It was great to catch up with Suz and also to get to know her husband and brother.

7/20/08 Wiarton, ON

133km/4587km

Rain. Wet tent. Mosquitoes. Same, same, same.

But I'm still breathing, still biking and still have my dashing good looks and sparkling personality so I guess it's still a good day.

The plan was to bike to Manitowaning and hope to get something for breakfast. Then get to South Baymouth early so we could buy our ferry tickets. For a Sunday morning we really didn't expect much traffic. Cloud cover kept things dark and cool. And mostly the road was flat, passing a few farms and a lot of pastures.

You could tell the rain was making it hard to bail hay. Manitoulin Island is the world's largest fresh water island but when you look at it on a map, most of it seems to be covered with lakes. Unfortunately from our road it looked like it went through rural Missouri as we didn't see any water.

Turns out Manitowaning was too small for even a gas station, so we pushed on. We actually made pretty good time reaching South Baymouth. And by this time we were famished.

One of the first places we saw for breakfast was Carol & Earl's Restaurant. And outside were two other loaded bikes. I introduced myself to Ralph, from Niagra ON, and Ralph, from Germany, who were just finishing up a week-long tour of the island. Then I tore into a helping of French toast smothered in maple syrup.

When we came outside it had already started to sprinkle which it did on and off for the next couple of hours. We had several hours to wait for the ferry that would take us to the Bruce Peninsula so I just walked to a few of the shops and the lighthouse.

Lighthouse in South Baymouth

As we queued up for the ferry, and later over lunch, I got a chance to talk more to Ralph and Ralph. Their mothers grew up together and German Ralph was visiting for Niagra Ralph's sister's wedding. And since he had come all this way, they whipped up a quick bike trip. It turns out Niagra Ralph was an ESL teacher (and his wife still is) and he had worked in Japan. So we chatted a lot about my upcoming trip to Mongolia to teach English.

By the time we loaded up onto the ferry, the blue sky opened up suddenly and it looked like we were going to have a great afternoon.

On the ferry

We didn't get back on the road until almost 4pm after getting off the ferry and saying goodbye to the Ralphs. (PS Happy Birthday again Niagra Ralph - the big five-o).

Ralph & Ralph

I think it is a measure of how worn out mentally I am when I didn't say a word when Mike suggested we do another eighty kilometers. That would get us to the campground about 8pm, extremely lake for us. There were a few other options but I went a long with it.

Physically I guess I'm in pretty good shape by now. But when your mental state is worn out, the body just doesn't function at 100%. I spent most of our evening ride through fields lit up by the setting sun frustrated and angry at the world. I even began chanting the Buddhist mantra "om mani padme hum" just to try and stop the discursive thoughts from taking root.

Lots of farms and wind

When we finally reached the campground, the office was closed. But a few of the seasonal campers directed us to where we could set up our tents. By the time I was unpacked and showered, it was almost 9pm. I decided to skip dinner and just eat some of the snacks I still had in my food bag.

Like many campgrounds across Canada, everyone was friendly and curious about the bike trip. One guy gave us some route advice for tomorrow. And another couple gave me a lot of encouragement for my Mongolian trip too.

Tomorrow we should reach Collingwood, home of my friend Suzanne. Taking at least a day off (no errands either!) and try to improve my mental state as I know we are in for more rain in the near future. It will be great to catch up with Suz and meet her husband and kids.

7/19/08 Sheguiandah, ON

132.5km/4454km

Woke up to the moon setting into the mists. A beautiful morning. No rain last night and the only moisture on the tent is dew.

I think we only rode a few minutes down the highway before I had to take off my windbreaker. It was looking like it was going to be a hot one today.

We stopped for breakfast in Spanish (yes, that's the name of a town) but when we came outside, black clouds had gathered. Every time the clouds blocked the sun, my mood would sink. then we'd turn a corner and the sunshine would lift my spirits again.

I thought that with the weekend, truck traffic would decrease. No, if anything, there were more semis today than yesterday. Riding this section of Hwy-17 with a paved shoulder barely 18" across is not for the faint of heart. I mean it is on the major trucking routes across Canada.

Strange sculpture in Masey

I'm beginning to feel that the highways in Canada, or the ones from Alberta to Ontario, just aren't safe for cyclists. I'm not sure I'd recommend a Canada cross-country bike trip to anyone. I've enjoyed the scenery and the Canadians have been warm and friendly but the roads...

When we took the exit off the Trans-Canada at Espanola, we were relieved that none, I mean absolutely none of the trucks headed our way. You could definitely feel it as we road along Hwy-6.

We grabbed a quick lunch and resupply in Espanola but as soon as we got out of town, it looked like we traded one bad situation for a totally different one. The road was a huge roller-coaster of hills and turns, just a two-lane but with no shoulder at all. And it seemed like we had an awful lot of car traffic going both ways. It was a nerve-wracking fifteen kilometers before a beautiful wide paved shoulder appeared.

Beauty along the road

Who should we run into but Adrian again. Looks like we're on a similar schedule only his is 'guerilla' camping; free camping where ever he can hide his tent. He was telling us he hadn't washed his hair in three weeks. I did enough of that kind of camping on the Appalachian Trail. I don't mind paying for a campsite that has toilets, showers, water and sometimes even laundry and internet.

Adrian asks "How's my hair?"

Eventually our road flattened out as we kept going south. And the sun was now beating down on us pretty good. We got some ice cold drinks in Little Current before heading on to find a campground. We lost our paved shoulder again but there was almost no traffic on the island in the late afternoon.

Swing bridge to the island

We like the campsite at the Green Acres Campground. It is so nice to sit outside without the constant harassment of mosquitoes. There is a huge boulder that proved perfect for meditation, along with writing this journal entry.

And I think we might get our first two nights in a row without rain. But Mike tells me rain is in the forecast for tomorrow.