6/30/07 Lavaur France

Nalanda Monastery

Well, yesterday, Cynthia and Jean-Yves dropped me off at the monastery. The director Tendar showed me around and made sure that I felt welcome. Because they won't be ready for me to work until Monday, I have had a free weekend to get comfortable. I've already met more people than I can remember names. Besides the monks, there seem to be quite a few volunteers here too. It truly is an international group with folks coming from all over the western world to be here. There are even a few who speak Spanish if I want to keep practicing.

Nalanda Monastery is located near the town of Lavaur France, 40km west of Toulouse. The River Agout runs below the gardens. The original monastery is a nineteenth century French manor-house. The monastery was founded in 1981 by Lama Thubten Yeshe and Lama Zopa Rinpoche to provide a place for mainly westerners, both monks and lay people, to study and meditate. Following the early death of his teacher Lama Thubten Yeshe, Lama Zopa Rinpoche took over as Spiritual Director as well as heading up the world organization Foundation for the Preservation of the Mahayana Tradition (FPMT), which is based in Portland, Oregon in the USA.

Bonjour

The main building

The River Agout

Nalanda is nearing the completion of a new main building after ten years hard work by monks and volunteers. A Swiss monk, Jean-François Bergevin, who had previously studied architecture and design, is the project leader. In 1996 Lama Zopa asked Jean-François to make plans for a new building respecting certain guidelines laid out in the oriental art of Feng Shui. Construction began in 1999 with the building integrating natural and ecological ideas throughout. The design has an extensive use of wood and compressed mud brick hand-made with earth from the monastery grounds.

Nalanda Monastery's new building project video

Today was market day, so one of the women volunteers, Tess, took me to town in Lavaur. It was a huge market selling all sorts of wonderful things. I especially liked all the smells coming out of the food stalls. Tess is one of the people I will be working with while I am here.

Back at the monastery, I sat down with everyone for lunch. Most of the meals are held in silence. I was surprised how much easier it is to enjoy a meal, eating slowing, when you are not in constant conversation. Later I spent some of my free time brushing one of the monastery cats and then trying to study a bit of my French lessons.

I might even get started on my work on Sunday if they are ready for me. I told Tess I've been relaxing for quite a bit at my cousins, so I could start any time.

6/25/07 St Lys France

Bonjour. Yes, even though I was just beginning to get a handle on my Spanish while in Spain, I have started to learn French. We'll see if the two languages help or hurt each other inside my brain. [laugh]

I'm trying to use several sources to learn. My book is "Teach Yourself French" and has audio to go with the lessons, along with my Pimsleur French CDs. But just to add a little variety and different perspectives, I'm also listening to two podcasts: FrenchPodClass.com and LearnFrenchbyPodcast.com

I'll try and give you an update on my language progress while I'm here in French.

This last week I enjoyed spending with my cousin Cynthia and her husband Jean-Yves. One night they had all the neighbors over for drinks and conversation that lasted until midnight. And a few nights ago we went into Toulouse to eat at a wonderful Lebanese restaurant. I'm beginning to get an appreciation for the social customs here in France. As someone new to France, I'm excused from not knowing all the nuances of accepted behavior. But Cynthia has lived here almost seven years and she says she still has trouble with all the layers of 'civilized' behavior. Seems it is something that you can only really know when you have been taught it since before you could walk and talk.

The church in St Lys

One reason I decided to spend more time learning yet another language is that I might be staying here in France for a while longer. I have put in a request to volunteer at Nalanda Monastery, a Buddhist monastery near Toulouse. As far as I can tell, it's the only monastery of it's kind in Europe. I have offered to help for several weeks working on the new monastery building they are constructing next door to the old one. But if it goes well both for me and them, I might stay longer. We'll see.

6/22/07 St Lys France

Most of the week I was trying to get used to the idea of not doing anything, just relaxing. While Cynthia was at work and Jean-Yves was at school, I did just that. I've been reading "Cutting Through Spiritual Materialism" by Chogyam Trungpa. I try to help out where I can around the apartment while they are gone so they have less to do when they come home like washing the dishes. But I still haven't figured out the washing machine yet. Now that I have internet access, I've been able to update the blog a bit, catch up with friends through email and explore more internet radio (check out GotRadio - Women's Alternative. And finally was successful in configuring a home computer network for Cynthia. I've gone for a run and took one afternoon to walk around St Lys.

Wednesday, Cynthia usually arranges her schedule to have the day off. So we took the day to go visit Nalanda (Buddhist) Monastery and Vajra Yogini Institute. Cynthia says these are her home-away-from-home. She met Jean-Yves there.

I was a little nervous at first when we drove up to Nalanda Monastery, which is an old mansion with huge grounds and the garden terrace looks over the river. There are about 15 monks in residence. This is one of the few 'western' Buddhist monasteries in the world. The language of the monastery is English, even though it's in France, because monks come from all parts of the 'west' and English is the most universal language. The most amazing thing about the monastery is that for the last ten years they have been building a new monastery next door. It is a beautiful building. There is a lot of natural light. Materials have been used to make it more environmental friendly both in construction and it's needs in the future. A few monks are already living in it even though it's not quite finished. They are hoping to have it finished in the next six months or so. Everyone I met was so nice, warm and friendly.

The new monastery building

After that, we took a short car ride to it's sister center, the Institut Vajra Yogini, which is for the lay Buddhist community where seminars are taught. Because this is more a place where lay people can learn more about Buddhism, the usual language is French. When we arrived, there was a big conference going on with both lay Buddhists and monks from all over Europe in attendance so there was a lot of English spoken too. I met so many people that I can't even begin to list their names. But just like the monastery, no matter how busy they were with this conference, they all took time to welcome me with wonderful smiles.

Institut Vajra Yogini

The next day, Jean-Yves had the day off from school (he's studying to get his Masters in Social Work) so we took a drive though the country. We wanted to find a lake where we could just sit and relax but clouds were doing their best to change our minds. Jean-Yves loves music lyrics so as we drove, he was always translating French lyrics from the CD's he played of his favorite songwriters.

That night we met Cynthia downtown in Toulouse for the Fete de la Musique, a free music festival where groups of all types are spread out in the city center playing to the crowds along the sidewalks. The groups are both amateurs and professionals, all playing for free, just for the enjoyment of it. The festival is always on the first day of summer. Even though it was Thursday it was as if the whole city had turned out to wander the streets listening to the enthusiasm of the musicians. We heard rock bands, choral groups, reggae, blues and electronic house music. Although most of the crowd was young, there really was a huge cross section of ages, with many families out enjoying the festivities.

6/17/07 St Lys France

Well, it's been a fun filled week here visiting my cousin Cynthia and her husband Jean-Yves.

It took me a few days for my body to realize that it didn't have to walk any more lugging around a backpack. One thing that helped was I was sleeping alone instead of in a crowded dorm room with twenty other people, some snoring. Every morning Cynthia asked how I slept and I could only answer "Great!"

All this acclimatization was helped in that I was kept pretty busy helping them get ready for their wedding. Yes, wedding. It was actually interesting to see how it's all done in another culture with different laws. So, let's see if I can explain the French view of a legal marriage.

As with a lot of Europian countries, the Catholic Church in France was aligned with the monarchy, so when the people revolted, they wanted nothing to do with the church. But you couldn't cut things like marriage and baptism out of the culture, so the government took it over. Yes, there is even a 'civil' baptism. So, if France, you must first be married by the mayor of the town in which you live. If you want a church wedding, that usually comes after.

In Cynthia and Jean-Yves case, they actually had a wedding ceremony in the USA last summer with all the family from both sides in attendance but waited till now to have the 'official' French wedding. And right now, they live in the small town of St Lys outside of Toulouse. So, when it was time to go to the mayor's office, it was only their closest friends who live and work here in Toulouse bearing witness. The only family there was Jean-Yves mother and me.

Cynthia waiting for the big moment

It was kind of church wedding with all the religion crossed out. Instead of vows read, the mayor read the laws regarding marriage. But there was music playing as we entered the office. Cynthia was a bit disappointed that at the point where you exchange rings, it was just an 'oh you can put on the rings' kind of a statement. It was a light, happy affair which some of the French folks in attendance said wasn't exactly usual. The mayor even gave the happy a couple a book on St Lys as a wedding present.

They sure look like they're having fun

You may now kiss the bride

Now the mayor signs the papers

This is not traditional in France [smile]

It didn't last long, maybe twenty minutes, then we all loaded up the cars to take the hour long drive out to Jose and Catherine's farmhouse in the shadow the Pyrenees. Jose is a professor and they were sort of Cynthia's parents-family when she first came to France so many years ago to finish the work on her Phd research in Medieval History. The house was beautifully restored and the grounds were filled with lots of different trees from all over the world. So we had a sort of garden party with lots of good food. I mean we are in France, right!

It was a very eclectic group, with almost equal numbers speaking French, English and Spanish. Jose is actually Spanish, so I was still able to use my Spanish to communicate. A lot of Cynthia's friends are coworkers at the school where she teaches English, so there were a lot of folks I could talk to in English too. But there were a few people there that I couldn't speak with because I don't speak French, including Jean-Yve's mother. She is an artist and did a wonderful pastel portrait of Cynthia for a wedding present.

All afternoon there was a steady stream of folks arriving and leaving, with new things added to the table. And when you needed to burn off a little of those calories (in order to squeeze in a few more), a bunch of us ended up in the pool.

I don't remember when we left but it was pretty late. A great success if I do say so myself.

6/13/07 Toulouse France

I know you're looking at the title and wondering what happened and how did I end up in Toulouse. Well, it's a strange story, even to me.

Tried to slip out of the refugio early this morning without waking up Nuncha who was in the bunk above me. As soon as I turned off one other side streets to follow the Camino, it started to climb again.

At this point, the canyon is so narrow, that there's not that much room for much. But the Camino follows one side with the river between me and the highway. For a ways even I was far above the road. The pleasant thing was that the roar of the rapids drowned out much of the noise of the trucks.

Passed a few dams too

Just a few more flowers

An amazing view

It was still very early when I went through the one-street ski town of Confranc. But once I left the road again, the trail changed dramatically. I was again in a green tunnel, but this time I was surrounded by huge evergreens with lots of climbing to negotiate my way closer to the top of the pass.

Ruins in Confranc

So close

The biggest surprise was a huge waterfall in the trail. I ended up taking a long break there just listening to the roar of the falling water. There were even old remnants of a road of sorts with rock walls. I think I have to say this is my favorite section of the whole Camino.

Took a long break here

A joy to walk

The tunnel was a surprise

Confranc Estacion was a larger town but it seemed to all center around a huge train station that was totally being restored. Stopped for some hot cocoa and got a few things from the store before I started the climb out.

According to the map profiles, I would be climbing 500m (1650ft) in 6km (3.7miles) which looked like a lot on the map. Got lost once, but the trail generally was easy to follow. But I was kind of shocked when I caught sight of Candanchu which is near the pass. It was work but it sure didn't seem that bad climbing.

Impressive

And the sun even came out

Passed nearby several large groups of military soldiers rope climbing all the nearby cliffs. I hoped it was alright for me walk through those milling around near the bottom waiting their turn to climb.

Candanchu is a ski resort which I'm sure looks much better surrounded by snow. I could see what I thought was the pass, so I kept on going.

The ski resort of Candanchu

That way to France

I reached Puerto de Somport at 12:01. Stopped to chat with the barman/hospitalero at the albergue/bar/restaurant who told me that the bus stop was over by the phone booth, which just happened to be in France. I had made it to the border of Spain and France, but knowing a glass box was all that signified that fact somehow seemed wrong.

I MADE IT

There were a few other pilgrims stopped nearby for a lunch break. One offered me her France phone card since she didn't need it anymore, and I gave her my Spanish one. I made a quick phone call to Jean Yves, my cousin Cindy's husband, to tell him I might actually make it to Toulouse tonight.

France

That's when I was thrust back into the world of the modern world with it's speeds too fast to think. Caught the 12:55 bus to Oloron St Marie and we made it just in time for me to buy a quick ticket for the bus that was leaving for Pau in 2 minutes. Lucky for me that the bus station is also the train station in Pau since the next train was leaving in 20 minutes. During a break to switch trains in Tarbes, I made a quick cal to Cindy to tell them when I was arriving in Toulouse.

So, just six hours after I was climbing the Camino through the Pyrennes, I was at the mall in Toulouse helping Cindy shop for various things they needed their wedding this weekend. Wow, talk about shock. All of a sudden I wasn't a pilgrim anymore, just a cousin come to visit in a country I didn't know anything about where the people speak a language I know only two words in; bonjour & merci.

I actually had a great time catching up with Cindy while we shopped. Jean Yves has one more year to get his Masters in Social Work. And to help things financially, she has two jobs; one teaching English, and the new one is starting her own translation company. As if that wasn't enough stress, here I am a house-guest on the weekend they are getting married.

Yes, getting married again! They were married in a ceremony last summer in Georgia but I wasn't able to attend. But this is an official marriage ceremony, for the French government, so there will only be a handful of people there.

Cindy and Jean Yves are such warm caring people, they're just excited that I made here in time to share this with them. They wouldn't have it any other way. I am one lucky guy.

Finally the adrenaline for the day started to wear off and I headed to bed at midnight. So, my walk along the Camino de Santiago is over, but the journey is just beginning.

6/12/07 Villanua Spain

Even with a room all to myself, I couldn't sleep late. Guess my internal alarm clock is permanently wired to pilgrim time. [laugh]

A gorgeous day ahead

As I left the hostel, I shouldn't have been surprised that it was a bit on the cool side, especially since I am in the mountains.

Walked the seven kilometers on the road back to where the Camino heads for Jaca. After that, the whole way was on backwoods roads where I could hear the rushing water of the River Aragon even over the traffic noise. I thought it would warm up, but clouds kept it cool enough, I amost but my jacket back on.

Following the River Aragon

Another beautiful day

Passed fewer pilgrims today. But one Frenchman told me he had started from Rome almost 3 months ago. Wow. Actually passed more Spanish pilgrims than most other days.

Jaca was a bit of a surprise. Turns out there are two Caminos through Jaca: The traditional one cuts through the center of town going by the cathedral. A newer one skirts the entire city along a parkway overlooking the river. When I asked for directions, that's the one I was directed to. Too bad, it might have been nice to see some of the city. Otherwise, the route I took was very peaceful.

Just 28km (17.3 miles) to go

Once out of the city, the Camino followed more of those back-country roads all the way to Villanua. There was some climbing and it was getting to get hot at times, but it was still a wonderful hike. Met a shepherd along the way who laughed when he said I was going the wrong way.

Quiet back-country roads

Along mountain streams

But always this towering over you

The only person I met all afternoon

Made it to Villanua about 2PM which wasn't bad for almost a 30km day. Maybe it was the mountains that gave me a boost. High above me since leaving Jaca was a high peak still with a little snow left on his shoulders. Mountains just have such presence.

There's just two of us here at the Refugio Triton near the city center. Nuncha just climbed down from Somport and is just going to Puenta la Reina due to vacation limits.

Villanua remind me a lot of the ski towns in the USA - lots of condos for people to stay in when they come to ski Candanchu at the top of the pass. Plus there is so much new construction, the town will soon be triple in size. But since it's not ski season, it's more a ghost town with very few locals living here all year.

Lots of new construction

I know I'm always going on about the aches and pains of the body, but haven't really talked much about my gear woes.

First, the solar panel would have been a good idea if there had been more sun. Next time, bring a wall charger as a backup.

Not sure why, but the MintyBost charger for my iPod stopped working. I still think it's the best idea, but maybe I need to look more at it's durability backpacking.

And a few days ago, the hip belt on my backpack tore completely away from the backpack. That's made carrying the pack a bit more fatiguing, especially as I come into the mountains. Definitely sending it back to REI.

But, today I broke my glasses. Sat on them in fact. The lenses are ok but the frames are shot. I just wasn't paying attention. But not much I can do about it now, so guess I'll be a little blind till I get home.

When I went for dinner, Nuncha was at the same restaurant, so I joined her. For the pilgrim menu, we weren't given a choice, just served. And it turned out wonderful. Besides the great food, Nuncha and I talked late into the night. Seems we were kindred spirits.

6/11/07 Santa Cruz de la Seros

I had planned a short day so I didn't really need to get up early, but it was kind of hard to stay in bed while everyone else was packing.

Didn't really know what to expect on the Camino as I left Arres, but the trail turned out to be wonderful. Not sure why, but I didn't pass a single pilgrim. I hope they didn't take the road instead.

A wonderful view this morning

The Camino outside of Puente la Reina de Jaca went through the woods along the River Aragon. So peaceful and quiet. I had to smile when I found what could only be described as a cairn field - hundreds of cairns.

The bridge to Puente la Reina de Jaca

This sight warmed my heart

Getting a lot closer to the mountains

My German friend Bernhard recommended a different route to Santa Cruz de Seros if I wanted to visit the Monasterio San Juan de la Pena. It meant more road walking, but was a lot easier.

There are very few places to stay, so I'm at the Hostal Santa Cruz, a nice but, to pilgrim standards, expensive place with a restaurant. The town has a touristy feel, with some new apartment construction among the old mountain homes.

The view from my balcony

One of the older homes in the village

I barely got my backpack off when I started the hour long climb up to the monastery. I don't know how far up I climbed, but it was straight up. I had originally thought to follow tis route in the morning as it follows one of the Camino routes. But I could barely negotiate the path without a backpack. They told me at the monastery that it was four kilometers, most uphill. It seemed dangerous enough that I opted to walk the road back down even though it was seven kilometers.

The climb up from the village was worth it

The monastery was amazing. It was built right into the mountain and seemed so isolated. But St Francis of Assisi did a pilgrimage to here. It felt so special walking through the complex, almost as if you could feel the monks walking besides you doing their daily chores. It's too bad it's an empty monument instead of something being used and lived in.

St Francis visited here in 1213

That's where I'm headed tomorrow

Back at the hostel, I had a quick lunch then retired to my plush room to clean up. The TV even has English-language CNN and they had American baseball on (Philly vs the Mets). I don't know, but all this is making me homesick. I'd give anything for Minsky's calzone or some good Mexican food.

I've been in Europe for 2 months now. Sometimes I feel that pull for home. The hardest lesson that the Camino still has more to teach me is that home is where I am at, not where I am not.

At dinner, there were two pilgrims speaking English. At since I seemed to be enjoying their conversation, they asked me to join them. Kristina was from Germany and Monica was a doctor from Bilbao. Kristina had already finished in Santiago like me and was doing a bit more. And Monica had walked the last three weeks through France but was finishing in Eunate. I had a wonderful time sharing our stories with them. It felt good to have pilgrim company.

Church of Santa Maria de los Seros

6/10/07 Arres Spain

It seems that no matter how much my feet hurt, the next morning they seem ready to get back on the road. Mind you they are not 100%, but they sure feel better than the day before.

Sort of got a late start, but I was hoping that the rain last night would cool temperatures down a bit.

I have to say that the two kilometers after Ruestra have to be the best on the entire Camino. My route paralleled the lake but I didn't get to see much of it because I was literally in a green tunnel. The Camino followed an old, old road. You could barely see the moss-covered rock walls for all the trees and brush. But the road was flat and very straight, built long before cars, maybe even a king's road.

Camino Argones

I got a little wet from the surrounding brush, but the trail was pretty dry considering all the rain we had. Another good thing about the Camino was that the marking has greatly improved. But I still found comfort in the little cairns others have left along the way.

Much easier to follow

Believe it or not, there is snow up on the mountain peaks that I've been walking along. And the villages along the way look like mountain kingdoms, as they are built up on the high ground.

Most of the day was through wheat fields ready to harvest. One farmer waded out into his fields to check if it was time to cut. When he saw me, he reminded me that Santiago was in the other direction.

I love the color of wheat

Decided not to climb up to Artieda

Snow on the mountain-tops

The last flat, straight part of the Camino

Even though today was a longer walk, the feet did pretty good. But those last few kilometers were tough, especially since the Camino went straight up to the pueblo of Arres.

The town is literally built on the cliffs. From the castle you can see the entire valley and a lot of the mountain peaks opposite. As you can imagine, there are few streets, just a lot of slanted sidewalks.

Too steep for cars, only walkways

More cats

I was warmly greeted by volunteer hospitalero Jose Maria. There are pictures inside the albergue showing it's re-construction. In the showers, there is a window showing the cliff-face the house is built on. Jose Maria even offered to make me some lunch and sat and ate with me. He said anything he could do, he would. I'm glad I made that last climb straight up to here.

The feet are very sore but I'll live. [smile]. When a thunderstorm blew through, I tried to take a nap but I can't find a comfortable position for my legs. But soon enough, the sun was back and I could walk around town.

Most of the other pilgrims are French, Italian & Spanish. Although a few are just beginning there pilgrimage from Somport, a lot seem too be hardcore perigrinos walking from there front door, even if they have to do it in parts. Some of these have not only done the Camino Frances, but many of the other routes in Spain and France.

We all ate together at the refugio for dinner. Jose Maria cooked up an all-you-can-eat Spanish version of potato salad, along with bread and wine. The amazing thing about the refugio is that everything is given freely but there is a donation box by the door.

Small chapel where we had a pilgrim mass

For this night, Jose Maria was in his element as almost everyone in the refugio spoke English. But he told stories of a few nights ago when there were fifteen pilgrims and none of them spoke a word of Spanish. He said those are the tough days.

Several times during the evening thunderstorms rolled through. Hopefully that means cooler temperatures tomorrow.