5/31/07 Casanova Spain

"We can do no great things - only small things with great love."
Mother Teresa

We had quite a rain storm last night, shaking the windows at all hours. It was a perfect morning to sleep in, and we did. I don't think anyone got up before 6:45AM.

It was kind of a surprise to leave in the morning without rain and even a little bit warmer than yesterday. But the winds kept pushing the rain clouds our way. Raining one minute, then clear, the occasional sunlight, then rain again.

Still damp this morning

By the time we got to Palas de Rei, it still wasn't looking like a good day to be walking. I stopped with Judy and Kathi for a warm drink, and later bought fresh supply of chocolate.

Later, as the sun started to shine more and the rain decided to leave for a time, I saw Alexandra just as I was going to break out that chocolate. And Alexandra loves chocolate. [smile]

A very old cross with the Madonna

Scarecrow in the garden

Here comes the girls from Alaska, Judy & Kathi

Green, green, green

We reached Casanova about noon, but it didn't seem like the same place the guidebooks were talking about. The hospitalera lives across the street and she says there are a few more people living here. But, contrary to what the guidebooks say, there is no bar, no restaurant or store here. So, as you can imagine, not many pilgrims are stopping here.

Martin is a young guy from Germany who studied Spanish in Argentina. He had a long day and needed to give his feet a rest. The hospitalera said if we wanted something to eat, she could call someone for us. We said why not.

The view from the albergue

We were picked up by the owner of Albergue A Bolborete who drove us the two kilometers to his place. The food was wonderful and he said we could eat as much as possible. And the surprise came when he told us the cost was only 6.50€. By far the best meal for the price on the Camino. When I told him it wasn't enough, he only said he was keeping his prices low because his was a new albergue.

Once we got back, there were quite a few more pilgrims checked in. I know four of them are going to the restaurant on our recommendation. I met Alfredo who asked if I wanted to go explore one of the village churches we passed today. Seemed like something to do.

Alfredo is Basque, recently married with a little girl at home. He says he is excited to some day take his family on the Camino. He loves nature and history and his wife likes history. We talked the whole way about Spanish history and about culture on the way back, all in Spanish. I had a good time even though we could not find any one to unlock the church for us.

One of the church windows

I think these last days can be a turning point for a lot of pilgrims. Sometimes the goal-oriented lifestyle we left behind has a chance reassert itself as you near Santiago. For others, they resist that return to 'normal' and that can be as painful as it is confusing. Even I have had thoughts of what I want to do when I get back. But also for me, I don't see the Camino ending.

Maybe that's one of the biggest lessons of the Camino - that the journey is the important thing, not the destination. Those things that made the Camino special can be carried back with us to our 'normal' lives. That is the real value of the Camino - to share the path with all our fellow pilgrims on the Camino called life, and to accept them as brothers and sisters on our quest.

Just 60km (37 miles) to go. I should reach Santiago on Sunday.

5/30/07 Ventas de Naron

"You cannot travel on the path until you become the path itself."
Buddha

This morning I stepped out of the refugio into the cold rain. I think we are beginning a pattern here in Galicia. Such beautiful country-side despite the rain.

Much like the last could of days, I could see patches of blue sky, just not where we were going. It rained, sprinkled or otherwise misted us the whole way down into the valley.

Walking in the rain

Portomarin was a shock to me. When I was here five years ago, the lake had so little water in it, it was more a stream. You could even see the original foundations of the original town along the streams edge. But today, the water comes all the way up to the shoreline of the new town. Wow.

Where did all that water come from?

I ran into Judy and Kathi again so we stopped in town to get something hot to drink. By the time we came back out, the sun had begun to win the battle with the clouds. And while it was still cooler, at least it wasn't raining any more and there were brief periods of sunshine.

Not a bad way to travel

I guess I wasn't expecting it, but I was shocked to come to a huge group of pilgrims ahead. I mean dozens and dozens. Everyone seemed to have taken a break in Gonzar for morning coffee. But I couldn't figure out where they all came from. Our refugio only held 22, and we were the last refugio 10km from Portomarin.

Word came that the hordes had turned to a flood in the albergues in Portomarin and I was just catching the last stragglers out of town. Just too many people.

The land was changing as we near Santiago

But I did get to see Jill and Syd again. They had gotten lost coming out of Samos, and arrived at all the refugios too late for a bed. They ended up walking almost 40km to Portomarin. I'm glad they are ok, I was a bit worried about them.

I tried to put some distance between me and the larger groups on the Camino for some solitude. My plan was to stay in Hospital de la Cruz but arrived to find it closed for the year. Nothing much left to do but keep walking.

An enterprising farmer

I love good surprises. Ventas de Naron was only a couple of kilometers down the road. My guidebook said there was nothing here, but luck would have it that there are two private albergues, a bar and a restaurant. What a great oasis. Judy and Kathi thought so too.

My Spanish always makes a good impression on my hosts and the senora at the Bar Plaza Albergue was happy to speak with me. She said she usually gets real busy for a couple of hours as the pilgrims stream through, but then it slows down in the afternoon.

After lunch, had a long talk with Kathi. She said she and Judy are retired teachers. And she has been lifelong resident of Alaska, while Judy originally came from back East. Kathi too has heard the Dalai Lama speak in Seattle and while she doesn't call herself a Buddhist, she definitely sees the benefits of the philosophy.

This is how we wash clothes - a wash board

Even though the clouds have mostly gone, the winds seem to be from the arctic. Just to walk around the village, I put on my fleece jacket and then still needed my rain coat for added warmth. I'm sure I'll need extra blankets tonight. Brrr.

Had a wonderful dinner in the bar. Our host was so proud of his home wine, he exchanged the bottle we were drinking for dinner with a pitcher of his from the cask. Good stuff. The husband and wife who run the albergue/bar are also farmers (I saw the husband working earlier in his farmer coveralls). Such nice, warm people always with a smile.

I'm glad I stopped here. Makes the continued journey tomorrow a little easier, and a little more joyful.

5/29/07 Ferreiros Spain

"It is only possible to live happily ever after
on a moment-to-moment basis."
Margaret Bonnano

Today started out just like yesterday. It had rained and the temperature was pretty cold, and it looked like it could rain again at any time. So, dressed up tight and headed toward Santiago.

Once we got out of Samos and off the road, it was very much like yesterday, walking along very old tree-lined dirt roads. And oh so green. The land looked like it could absorb anything man-made almost instantly.

Camino de Santiago

Thick and lush

Just follow the yellow arrows to Santiago

There wasn't as much sun as yesterday, but it also didn't rain except for a sprinkle. It was a very pleasant walk.

It is such a shame that most churches and chapels along the Camino are closed, some permanently. In the village of Hospital, there was a very tiny ermita, or chapel. The grass was pretty high and the windows in the front door looked broken, but something made me go look in anyway. What a beautiful chapel. There were no benches or chairs, just individual kneelers. If only the pilgrims could take a few minutes solace in places like this.

Inside the tiny ermita

Maybe that is how the Camino can return to the pilgrims instead of the tourists. If someone in the village could open the churches and chapels for the pilgrims, I'm sure the pilgrims would make an offering. If only 10% gave .10€, that could amount to over 1000€ a year for maintenance and repairs. And maybe the pilgrims could help save some of these jewels from being lost forever.

On the way into Sarria, I walked a bit with Laura from Ireland. In her free time she makes clothes, so I told her my mother was a seamstress. She seemed impressed by the rain skirt I made.

I have to admit that my subconscious was in a bit of a panic when I took a break to have some cocoa as I watched pilgrim after pilgrim pass me by. So, in a rush, I left the city. But once we returned to the wooded lanes, I realized how silly that was so I stopped, sat down and made myself a sandwiched after which I had some cookies. No matter what, I'll get a bed, so it is a waste to worry.

A good place for a break

I met a few Italian ladies who were just starting their Camino today. Sarria is the last major town to get a lot of new pilgrims because to get the Compostella from the church, you must complete at least the last 100km.

They said they got a late start, leaving about 10AM. I tried to explain to them that the refugios fill up quickly so they need to plan for that. They had hoped to reach the same refugio I was hoping to get a bed at. I hope they can make it in time, as the refugio only has 22 beds, and the next refugio is 10km further.

Flores

100kms (62 miles) to go

Our friends with the burro

Just as I thought, the hospitalera said there were only four beds left when I got there. One part of me wanted to go on leaving the bed for someone else like the Italian ladies. But the other side said that I had been walking since 7AM and had walked over 20kms already. And who knows, maybe the Italian ladies stopped at the last albergue in Morgade.

As luck would have it, I share a bunk with Jean Pierre. And Laura is here too. All the beds filled and the hospitalera even let four people have floor space to sleep on. But by the time the Italian ladies got there, there just wasn't any room. I think they were going to rent a room at one of the Casa Rural (sort of like a bed & breakfast).

Talked a bit with the hospitalera about her work with the refugio. She has worked here every day, 365 days of the year, for the last 20 years. Usually most of the perigrinos come during the summer, but she has to be here even in winter in case someone comes by usually one every ten days or so. But this year, the refugio has been full every day since Easter. She said it's a lot of work, but this year it has been too much. Even with her never-ending smiles, she said she was tired. And summer hasn't even begun yet.

5/28/07 Samos Spain

"...the quiet place is within us. The noise which you find so distracting is external. It only exists if you want it to."

Ganai Chanchaochai in DHARMA MOMENTS

I'm sitting in the evening sun and am having difficulty remembering how bad the morning started. But here goes...

I had decided last night to go to the refugio in the monastery in Samos which was only 12km away. Since it was a short day, I didn't need to rush to get packed and out of the albergue. I took my time, had a hot cocoa in the bar, all before I said goodbye to Alexandria.

Saying goodbye to Tomoko and Alexandra

Stepping out the door was a rude awakening. A heavy mist covered everything and a very cold wind was whipping the trees around. The trouble is I didn't have any cold weather gear. I ended up wearing my windbreaker under my rain coat, but the my hands were so cold. I kept switching hands to hold my walking staff every minute just to keep my hands from freezing.

Camino de Santiago

The maps said we would be climbing down all day. So I guess we started out in the clouds, but when we descended lower, beneath the mists, we got the rain. Nothing is much worse than cold and wet.

136kms to go

But now we start to descend

But as I got closer to Triacastela, I was joined by Syd and Jill from Essex England. I met them at Albergue Brazil and they were such nice people. And the surprise to us was that as we climbed even farther down to town, the clouds parted and we had sunshine, glorious sunshine.

And the weather begins to clear

Sharing the road

We enjoyed while it lasted, the time it took to get across to the other side of town. I was surprised at how many people seem to take the route to Samos. It's a longer route and I thought to distance myself from the Camino hordes. Not, but that's still to come.

Walking through Triacastela

We had a bit of road walk, but at San Cristobo do Real, we left the roads to walk through a countryside forgot by time. All the Camino was shaded by trees and line with moss-covered rock walls that defied age. I stopped once or twice just to take it all in. Wonderful.

Simply wonderful

Came across a farmer who was moving his cattle from the barn to a nearby field who said it was three more kilometers to Samos. The sun continue to pop in and out making it a pleasant afternoon walk mostly.

How much farther to Samos?

Just before you reach Samos, there is an overlook above the monastery. What a wonderful view. I had come through here five years ago during a rain storm so was happy to see it in better weather.

The Benedictine monastery in Samos

The refugio is in one of the side rooms of the monastery. My guess it was one of the stables. What surprised me was that once they opened, the eighty beds filled up almost immediately. So much for getting away from the crowds. The other thing odd is that I don't recognize most of them. Kathi and Judy are here, as is Jean Pierre. But other than Syd and Jill, the rest of my companions seemed to have chosen the other route.

The crowded refugio inside the monastery

Pilgrim asks where he can bed his burro for the night

Took the tour of the monastery, which was huge, but now there are only 14 monks living here. They are celebrating 1000 years of helping pilgrims here. Later had a quiet dinner alone. And meditated as the sun set over the monastery with a smile.

They raise their own food here

The monastery's church

And inside the church

Murals painted in the halls

Inside the gardens

5/27/07 Fonfria Spain

"Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle." Plato

An older gentleman out for a morning stroll

It was a quiet road walk since this was early Sunday morning. It was dry but clouds seem to hug the upper parts of the mountains. But after a few kilometers, you could see pilgrims alongside the road putting on their rain gear.

This climb up into the mountains scares a lot of pilgrims but that seems silly considering they've just walked across Spain. Despite our successes, we always seem to create monsters out of the unknown.

Galicia is known for it's rain. Maybe that's why the Celts settled here over a 1000 years ago - because it reminded them of home.

Rain in the mountains

Neither the rain or the mountains
scared this older French woman on her bike

The old road to La Faba was a long hard climb over rocks. And with the rain, it was very slick too. But my body seemed to enjoy the work as I kept passing others along the way.

I definitely remember this road

The four kilometers on to O Cebrero would have been beautiful on a nice day, but with the rain and fierce winds it was just something to endure.

Monument to the Pilgrim in O Cebreiro

In O Cebrero all the pilgrims crammed into the first bar into town including me, to warm up and maybe get something to eat. Too many wet people in too small of a space to be comfortable, so I left pretty quickly back out into the rain.

It's amazing that I ever get to where I want with my bad luck of missing the Camino. Leaving town, I was joined by Kathi & Judy, with Tomoko following us. But on the road I couldn't find any arrows or signs. By the time we figured we had taken the wrong way, it was too far to walk back, so we kept walking hoping the Camino would cross our path.

I smiled big once we reached Lunares when I spotted the familiar yellow arrow. Despite the rain, the Camino didn't have that much mud, and the surrounding trees sheltered us from most of the winds.

In Hospital de la Condesa, I stopped at the refugio to check my guidebook to see if it was worthwhile to continue. The refugio was a beehive of activity because they were using it as an election polling place. I had fun joking with the old timers telling them that it was a wonderful day for a walk.

It was noon and I decided that it might be warmer and maybe even better weather if I could get off the top of these mountains, so I kept going. One minute I'm being pelted with rain while the wind tries to rip off my rain gear, but the next minute it's calm with even a hint of sun.

Made it to the albergue in Fonfria. The family actually converted a barn into a refugio-bar-restaurant. Actually very nice, with even a large sitting room. We're packed in pretty tight because they keep taking in the late comers who beg for floor space instead of going any farther in this weather.

Tomorrow I'm not sure what I want to do. There is a longer route that goes to the monastery in Samos. It would be a very short day, but then it would put me in a schedule of staying in some smaller refugios instead of the big ones. And I hesitate to ask any other pilgrims like Alexandra where they are going in case it pulls me in a different direction.

Now that we are so close, there is a tendency to bunch as a group instead of approaching Santiago as individuals, at least with me. I have to remind myself to lessen the importance of expectations and let the moments present themselves as they will. Too much planning removes possibilities.

Tonight we had a traditional meal for this part of Galicia. If I didn't know better, I would have thought my grandmother cooked the meal. Besides the usual wine and bread, we had a lentil soup with rice, onions, potato in a beef broth. For the main course we had potatoes and roast beef. For desert we had Tarta de Santiago which you only find here as we get closer to Santiago. Ate too much, but it was all too good.

Heading down for dinner

A little wine before dinner is served

Juan Pedro is here, but now there are a few more Spaniards. Since I wasn't with anyone, I sat with them. I told them that I spoke Spanish but they thought I was from Germany. Not a hard assumption these days on the Camino. I had fun listening to them, but when it came to jokes I was lost. But they were great guys. For a nightcap, Jaime bought a round of oruja, a kind of whiskey made from grapes. powerful stuff so I should sleep good.

5/26/07 Vega de Valcarce

"We'll never fully understand each other.
At best we can only accept and appreciate."
Geri Larkin in STUMBLING TOWARDS ENLIGHTENMENT

No rain last night but the sky was still covered by clouds in the morning.

I guess I just get antsy to get moving in the morning. Instead of eating anything, I've been drinking a large bottle of yogurt for breakfast. And I left before I could say goodbye to Alexandra or Tomoko.

Up before sunrise

Most of the Camino passed through more vineyards. The clouds dominated the sky but the sun kept punching through. And today I saw more than yellow arrows pointing the way; there were red ones, white ones, blue and purple ones too.

I wish I could paint this

Made it to Villafranca del Bierzo before 9AM. Stopped to visit the Refugio Ava Fenix which hadn't changed much since I was here last. And just like five years ago, got lost leaving town. There are supposed to be three different Caminos as you leave town but I only saw one. Later Alexandra told me that a parked car blocked the sign for the other routes.

The guidebooks didn't recommend this way because it follows the road. But I saw very few cars so I didn't think it was a bad way to go.

Not really a bad road walk

All day the Camino went up, but I hardly noticed the climb. We basically followed the Rio Valcarce upsteam in this deep valley. The steam flowed pretty fast but it was difficult to see it through the trees, but you could sure hear it.

Took a long break in Tradelo for an early lunch before continuing on to Vega de Valcarce.

Only 190 kilometers to Santiago

I had been thinking that I was getting too attached to Alexandra and Tomoko instead of walking my own Camino. I was feeling pretty good and thought I might go farther today but felt bad because I hadn't said goodbye to the girls. I know that's just the way it is on the Camino but it still seemed important.

All the solitary pilgrims start our Caminos alone, and in the end it seems important to finish in that way, at least mentally, even though we may be walking with others physically. We all walk to Santiago, but it affects each of us differently. And even though it would be sad to be separated from my new friends, I think it's the right frame of mind to be in.

When I reached town, the first refugio is Albergue Brasil. I thought I'd wait here until the girls showed up, before moving on. But the minutes turned into hours as I started to worry.

Welcome to Albergue Brasil

The hospitalero told me not to worry, and eventually I decided to stop here for the day. Besides the Brazilian theme, tonights dinner is traditional Brazilian food. I thought it would be a great change from our usual pilgrim menus.

Eventually, I saw a very tired Alexandra walking up the road. She too had got lost coming out of town, loosing an hour. But, even though she was tired, she too had decided to push on to the next village 2km away. I know I'll see her again but it's still sad parting.

This albergue was started as a way to show pilgrims from all over the world a little bit of Brazil. Inside the main room is art and crafts from Brazil while Brazilian music is playing. Before dinner, we all introduced ourselves and made a short comment about the Camino. We came from eight different countries.

The Black Madonna of Brazil

And dinner was some foods from Brazil like salad with a beans and rice main course. Desert was a sweet concoction put on a cracker (sorry I didn't get the name). A good dinner with good conversation.

Dinner was wonderful

Well, just 164 km (99 miles) to Santiago. [Walked so far 543 km (336 miles)]