5/31/04 North Sioux City SD

54 miles (891 total)

More, more rain last night. Clear this morning, but the wind is still relentless. And really cold. Had my windpants, jacket and gloves on because it was that cold. Temps in the 50's but I met the wind chill was in the 40's.

Grabbed a bite to eat in Sloan, and to get out of the wind. Everyone I ask says that the winds have been like this all Spring. On the road, it was a hard crosswind that blew me off the road more times than I could count. Trying to keep the bike going straight was like bull-riding. Your hands get cramped just holding on.

WIND!!!

I'm following the Lewis & Clark Bicycle Trail as mapped out by Adventure Cycling, but sometimes the city information in Tod Rodger's book “Bicycle Guide to the Lewis & Clark Trail” is better. Tod's book had an easy route through Sioux City that included the bike trail along the Missouri River. But with my luck, the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center that everyone told me was a 'must see' was closed. But did stop and talk to the guys at the Sergeant Floyd River Museum.

The Sergeant Floyd

The bike trail along the river was great. You could see houses along the bank with their own beaches and boat docks. Saw a few boats on the water but I'm sure the wind made things too choppy for most folks.

Didn't know too much about the State Park outside of town, so decided to splurge and get a motel room. But I could have picked a better place than North Sioux City, South Dakota.

The area clearly had built up because of a Gateway Computer Plant and video gaming casinos, but since the plant had cut back and there's now a river boat casino in Sioux City, the whole area here looked like it was dying a slow death. Dinner was Taco Bell because there wasn't anything else. Oh well, I'm out of the wind and rain tonight.

Wall sculpture in North Sioux City, SD

5/30/04 Lewis & Clark State Park

27 miles (837 total)

Oh boy, did it storm last night! Even though everything in the tent stayed dry, I was glad to be sleeping on the porch. Lots of tornadoes but thankfully no fatalities.

Just a bit of sunshine as I packed up. Jim brought me over a souvenir t-shirt from the campground. What a guy! Said my ever-grateful 'thank you's to Mike and Kim before heading back out on the road.

Once out of the confines of the 'campopolis', I got a taste of the day to come; strong crosswinds. Tailwinds are a blessing and headwinds are just hard work. But crosswinds are a curse, especially when you share the road with cars and trucks. Sometimes it's hard to keep a straight line, and suddenly you're off in a ditch, or worse under the wheels of truck.

And to make matters even more 'interesting', a bridge was out on my route, so the detour took me on the interstate for ten miles. Lucky for me it was early Sunday morning on a holiday weekend, so traffic was pretty light.

Can't go that way!

Finally got back on county roads at Blencoe where I talked to a few old-timers at the convenience store. The sun kept trying to come out but these winds just kept pushing more clouds in the way.

Definitely needed a break once I reached Onawa. At first, I couldn't tell where to eat lunch at until I noticed quite a few cars parked just down the street. The Onawa Cafe was doing great with the Sunday after church crowd. They even give you a free sundae on Sunday. Mmm!

By now, the skies sure didn't look friendly. Probably should have splurged for a motel room, but the folks I met so far at the campgrounds have me looking for forward to new friends. And maybe a free meal. [grin] But when I got to the Lewis & Clark State Park, my hopes were dashed. Lots of local families very intent on their own holiday weekend, instead of looking at the lone bike riding through looking for a campsite. But I did get a slight discount ($11 instead of the regular $16) by camping in the youth group area. They're building a new Lewis & Clark Center here but it won't be completed until this Fall. But they do have a replica keel boat out in the water. Met a woman and her family from Sioux City who had all sorts of questions about my trips.Can't go that way!

The Discovery

Even though it was a short mileage day. I felt exhausted. Took a short nap, but generally tried to get caught up on my correspondence. The winds have continued even more fiercely as the afternoon moves to evening. Made cooking dinner a test since I forgot to pack my stove's windscreen. I just hope all this wind blows everything south before I wake in the morning for Memorial Day.

5/29/04 Woodland Campground Iowa

57 miles (810 total)

Another fine morning

The morning sun was bright off the water. It really lit up the Omaha skyline. Was up and rolling as most of the other campers slept in.

The bike path was the logical route but proved to be a big mistake. Where the path went under I-29, there was a river of mud over 8” deep. I had no choice but to wade through it. Finally saw where other cyclists had climbed up an embankment to get around in the high grass. What a mess! Mud all over the bike, brakes, wheels and completely covered my feet. Stopped at the trail head and used the drinking fountain to wash as much off as I could. Later found a hose near the high school baseball fields to give it a good washing.

Took me almost five miles to get back to the route. More hill climbing to get out of town. The area north of Council Bluffs is called the Loess Hills. Even passed the local ski mountain.

Slightly overcast but had a powerful tailwind. Sometimes I was actually coast at 20mph. In Missouri Valley, had the buffet at the Pizza Ranch. Asked a guy about camping and met Lyle Ring, a railroad man. When he knew that Woodland Campground was on my route, he called his boss who has a RV there.

The air really felt like a storm was coming fast. At River Sioux, left the route to cross I-29 to find Woodland. Actually the campground should be called 'Woodland City'. There are 800 lots here and they're all packed with RVs, trucks, campers and tents for the Memorial Day weekend.

Mike Blackley met me at the gate to escort me through the rush-hour traffic of golf carts. What a metropolis! Mike and his wife Kim got me settled in for a relaxing afternoon. Later, Mike's sister, Cathy, a dialysis nurse working in Omaha, came by for dinner. She just recently relocated here from Colorado to be closer to family. We talked shop a bit.

River's too choppy for boaters today

Then it was time to meet the neighbors, Jim and his wife Di. What a fun couple! We all walked over to their place for the evening entertainment. Jim's daughter Kelly showed slides of a recent trip to Venice, Italy. She works for Iowa promoting the state and looking for foreign investors. Others in attendance were Darcy, Todd & Julie. Jim is a one man show, and since I was new, he keep me in stitches even though everyone else had heard his stories a hundred times over. Had a blast!

Beer drinkin' dog

But while we were having fun, everyone had one eye on the weather warnings on the TV. As we settled in for bed, the storm finally hit us. Mike and Kim let me sleep on the screened porch since it was looking to be a rough night.

5/28/04 Council Bluffs IA

67 miles (754 total)

Woke just as the sun was peaking over the bank of the river. Said a final goodbye to Norma, Ralf and Beth as I rode back up out of town. Usually, I'm not much of a breakfast eater, but when I saw the Lewis & Clark Café, I just had to stop. Everything on the menu was named after members of the expedition. But me, I had to have the Belgian waffles. Mmm.

Looked like a wonderful morning as I crossed the Missouri River again back into Iowa. Almost across the bridge, my rear tire blew. Not sure if it was a 'goodbye' from Nebraska or a 'hello' from Iowa. Either way, I sure couldn't stop on the bridge to change it. Found a quarter inch tear in the tube but no apparent puncture on the tire. Not even sure if a patch will hold it. Good thing I have another spare inner tube. But it is a royal pain to change either tire because you have to unload all the gear. Oh, well, 'tis life.

Once on Iowa soil, I mostly followed county roads, crossed over I-29 every couple of miles to the other side. Looking down from the overpass I wondered what Lewis would have thought of our modern waterways, our rivers of asphalt and concrete. It took me awhile to realize I had a tailwind. Oh, glorious tailwinds, gifts from the goddess mother earth.

Asphalt River

Stopped in Pacific Junction to ask about lunch, but a local woman said I should go a couple more miles to a cafe near the interstate. Who should bull up seconds later but Steve and Bob.

Yesterday, they'd had even more adventure than I. Near Peru, Steve's trailer tire had a flat. They put a tire boot on it but it was only for a short haul. In Peru, they were able to reinforce everything with duct tape. Just as they were getting back on the trail, that rain hit. But they were able to wait it out at th covered pavilion at the trail head. After they got to Nebraska City, they were able to get everything replaced at the bike shop there.

Did notice a stretch of a few miles where there was a lot of roof damage and trees down. And the corn fields looked different too. Then it dawned on me. All the corn stalks were shredded. Must have been a hell of a storm to do that.

As they went on, I stopped at that café to get some lunch and out of the sun. The waitress must have taken pity on me because she kept refilling my coke. Even though the map directions were a little off with street names, I made it into Council Bluffs, IO.

The guy at Tastee Treat said I could take a bike path to a closer bike shop instead of going all the way downtown. Jack Pieper at Xtreme Wheels was able to fix me up with some new inner tubes and chain connectors. Also had trouble today with the magnet for the cyclocomputer. He gave me a different one and I'll try it out when I take a day off.

Council Bluffs is a lot like Kansas City because it's real spread out. I'm sure it was three or four miles to get to the Western Historic Trails Center. And who should I run into but Steve and Bob. The Center highlights the Oregon Trail, the California Trail, the Mormon Trail and of course, the Lewis & Clark Trail.

After that, I had to turn back into the headwinds for another four or five miles to get to the Lake Manawa Campground. Saw the rangers office, so stopped by to talk to a few of the guys outside. “It's full,” one said of the campground. I told him I only needed a little space. I met him at the campground and we decided I could camp behind the host's RV. Still had to pay full price, but that's ok.

Got a shower, cooked dinner, and now just relaxing with some wind blowing over me. I sure hope I don't run into any camping problems for the rest of this Memorial Holiday weekend.

~ Home Sweet Home ~

5/27/04 Nebraska City NB

77 miles (687 total)

Good Morning Big Lake

Even as the sun was barely up, you knew it was going to be a hot one. Packed up and headed over to Steve and Bob's rented room. They had a full kitchen and decided to cook breakfast. But because they had to buy a full dozen eggs and a large box of pancake mix, they invited me to help eat it all.

Steve had got a different route from one of the locals, so they would be following the trail on the Missouri/Iowa side. I decided to continue on back to the original route on my maps. Probably my mistake.

Just like I thought, it was already starting to get hot. And instead of following the flat bottom land, I rode up and down rolling hills all day long. Sometimes I could see three or four crests to the ribbon of a road ahead.

Bob & Steve

At Brownsville, I stopped in at the Ice Cream Parlor for a bit of lunch and to savor a vanilla milk shake. But as I was leaving, looked like my sunshine was going to be interrupted by rain clouds.

I had only gone a mile on the Steamboat Trace Rail-to-Trail when it started to come down hard. The only good thing was I could see blue sky ahead if I could only get to it.

The Steamboat Trace is about 24-miles long and I can't say I recommend it at all. It doesn't drain well and it is too muddy in too many places. I had to stop frequently to get the mud off the tires just so they would roll. There's only one bathroom on the entire length at Peru, NB. But halfway, the rain stopped and I ended up in that sunshine again.

The Merriwether Lewis

Such a romantic!

The Missouri

Got lost again as I left the trailhead and asked some young guy on a tractor for directions. I wasn't too far off, but I came into Nebraska City from the west.

These river towns sure are hilly. I was exhausted by the time I reached the Riverview Campground. I was surprised not to see Steve and Bob since I'd been following their tracks all day on the Steamboat Trace. And even though my uncle Bob recommended Valentino's highly for dinner, I was too worn out to ride back up into town.

Sat and talked to Norma, the campground host, while I mustered enough energy to go set up camp. Later was befriended by Ralf and Beth from Lincoln, NB, who fed me more. No alcohol for me after those last two nights of free drinks. A great group of people all. “I sure hope you liked Nebraska.” Ralf said with a smile.

A cycling friend, Bernard, asked if I felt anything like Lewis & Clark. In the beginning of the trip, I didn't think so, but now as I ride north, it's all new discovery for me. This is my first time up this way, so it's all new, just waiting for me to see what I can see. Just like Lewis & Clark. Finally camped along the banks of the Missouri River, complete with all the hordes of mosquitoes. But I don't mind. Fell asleep early, to tired to even start my journal entry for today.

5/26/04 Big Lake State Park MO

64 miles (611 total)

More rain last night. Getting kind of used to it, but I hate packing up a wet tent. On the bright side, the sun was shinning and the temps were cool.

Riding into Atchison Kansas

Said my goodbyes to Jerry as I rode off towards Atchison, KS, for a little breakfast even though my stomach was a little queezy with a hangover. Talked to the ladies at the visitor depot, before heading over to the Amelia Earhart Birthplace Museum. Earhart was born in her grandparents home. What a great house, up on a bluff looking over both the city and the river. She could almost touch the sky. Maybe that was the reason she became a pilot.

Amelia Earhart Birthplace Museum

Was a little spoiled yesterday because no shoulder to ride today but traffic was pretty light. But the road was a roller coaster for sure. In Troy, they have one of Peter Wolf Toth's huge wood sculptures called “Tall Oak.” Toth set out to carve at least one monument to a Native American Tribe in every state. This was #29 (out of 60) representing Iowa, Kickapoo, Pottawatomie, Sac and Fox Indians.

Peter Wolf Toth's “Tall Oak”

Dropped in Carolyn's Restaurant for some lunch where I talked with Eric, a young mechanic on his lunch hour. Good food, good conversation and hardly cost a thing.

Stepped outside and ran into the first Lewis & Clark cyclists I've met since I began in Hartford. Steve and Bob are from Arizona. We got to talking and discovered we met before. I ran into them in Ordway, CO, during my 2001 cross country bike trip. Small world.

Even though the sun was shinning, the winds kept it cool. After a few short hills outside of Troy, the road dropped back down towards the flat river bottom. Oh, what a joy, a flat road and a tail wind. I literally flew down the road.

At the Nebraska border, I was stopped by Wolf River Bob, a Lewis & Clark Guide from White Cloud, KS. He'd been involved with the trail since it's official recognition in the late 60s. You could tell he had a passion about it. I signed his guestbook and told him about Nomad walking the trail. I think the two of them would have great conversations.

At Rulo, I crossed the river to get back into Missouri. The maps said Big Lake State Park was only four miles away, but I think that was only to the turn off. Then you still had another two miles to get to the park. Big Lake is the Missouri River's largest remaining oxbow lake.

Crossin' back into Missouri

Ended up camping right next to the shore. While cooking dinner, a couple camping across from me, Dave and Shawna, came over to chat. Later I joined them around the campfire along with another family, Bill and his two boys. Another good ending to the day.

5/25/04 Lewis & Clark State Park MO

58 miles (548 total)

Quite a light show out last night. Not so much rain but the lightning and high winds made me glad I was not in my tent. And from the weather reports, the worst of it went right through where I would have been camping if I hadn't lost my wallet. Fate?

Kansas City skyline

A lot simpler to pack up this morning. Basically just changed clothes and I was ready. Mom gave me some banana muffins for later. But for breakfast, I decided to try a French bakery a few blocks from my house. Funny how you have to leave a place to appreciate it. I've lived in this neighborhood for a couple of years, but never ate at Cafe Apanaire. Boy, my mistake. The cinnamon roll just melted in my mouth. Definitely recommended by yours truly.

Skies still looked pretty grey, so I had the rain covers on and my jacket. But as I biked through the city, I kept changing layers to my windbreaker, then my long-sleeved sun shirt. The funny thing is that even though I bought this Calvin Kline cotton dress shirt at the thrift store, it's probably the nicest shirt I've ever owned. Now if I only had my cuff links. [smile]

Trains were a constant companion

In Parkville, couldn't really find a burger joint, so stopped in at Papa Frank's. I thought the lunch special might be light enough but then the waitress brought out these huge plates. Oh, well, I'm sure I need the the carbohydrates.

Back out on the road, the sun finally began pushing the grey aside. But it also could have been the winds. I should have guessed that it would be headwinds for me again today but the temperatures were so cool, I couldn't really complain. Plus, it seemed traffic was lighter today compared to Sunday.

Except around towns, the road is pretty flat since I'm riding through the river's flood plane. And right next to me is always the train tracks. Lots of trains today. One even gave me a toot on his whistle when he saw I was taking his picture.

Took the back way into Weston, another little town that's done a good job of attracting people to come up from Kansas City. Their museum, while small, is done up better than I've seen in other small towns. And what would a stop in Weston be without getting a free sample of whiskey at the McCormick Company Store. Had a good time talking with Dick behind the bar.

Kind of a take-your-time kind of day. Ended up pulling into the campground around 5PM. This is a very large open park. As I rode around checking out the place, I stopped at a gathering near one of the RVs. And before you know it, I was swept up into the hospitality of Jerry Gascoighn and his RV friends. They popped open a cold one for me and sat me down for conversation and laughter. Later another friend of Jerry's dropped off a plate of dinner for me. We moved the party to another RV and kept going till after 10PM. I was still in my bike clothes, so made my goodbyes and wobbled a little bit on my way to the shower house.

Jerry Gascoighn and my RV friends

As you can guess, didn't get much journal writing done. Ah, but I slept good...

5/24/04 Kansas City MO

42 miles (490 total)

In the morning, my email still didn't have word of success, so I made the decision to start back towards Kansas City. For any long distance biker/hiker, the unwritten rule is "at all costs, try not to go back." But if my wallet was truly lost, I needed to cancel credit cards and start getting replacements for everything, which would be easier if I was in town. Who knows how long all that would take. Besides, I didn't even have money to buy lunch. So, packed up and headed out in the early morning hours.

As fate would have it, the winds had shifted overnight and my headwinds yesterday turned into headwinds today as I headed in the opposite direction. [laugh] Checked my Pocketmail back in Parkville and breathed a sigh of relief that they had found both the bike rider and my wallet. Everyone wanted me to wait and not return, and they would drive my wallet out to me. But I was already halfway and figured I'd be home by lunchtime. They all felt so bad about what had happened, but no one was to blame, especially not the guy with the car. I was just relieved to know the wallet was found and that was all that mattered.

Got a little lost trying to get through Kansas City, KS, but eventually rode down my driveway a little after noon. A cool shower and lunch made the world alright again. Mom was a little surprised by my return but understood completely as I related my story. "Things always happen for a reason." she said. And watching the news tonight, she might not be too far wrong. Looks like severe storms and tornadoes north of Kansas City, just where I was to be riding today. So, probably a good thing to be out of the path and with a roof over my head as the rain comes tonight.

Actually, because I was so busy on Friday and Saturday running errands, I didn't really have a day off to relax. Even though I rode the whole morning, it was great to finally get that rest at home. Got my wallet back (Thanks guys!) and mom cooked up some homemade pizza for dinner, complete with ice cream for dessert. Life is good. [smile]

I'll watch the weather tonight and in the morning, and decide when to head out again. Onward...

5/23/04 Weston Bend State Park MO

42 miles (448 total)

What a great Sunday morning, not too hot and skies are clear. Said my goodbyes to mom, again, and headed out. I was meeting up with a regular group of people who meet in the Brookside area every Sunday morning that rides north towards the River Market area, just where I wanted to go. So about a dozen of us had the roads almost completely to ourselves this Sunday morning.

In front of the JC Nichols fountain on the Plaza

Took a break down at a little coffee shop in the River Market. Decided to splurge and get a bagel-egg sandwich with cheese. Mmm good. As I was getting ready to leave, they all decided that they could at least accompany me to Parkville, MO. That was good because I'd only ridden that way once and I was still hazy on how I was going to get across the Missouri.

Where the Kansas River joins the Missouri

But first we had to stop off at the Lewis & Clark statue in downtown Kansas City. I didn't even know we had a statue commemorating the Expedition. The pleasant surprise was the people featured in the bronze were not only Lewis & Clark, and Sacagewa, but also York, Lewis's slave. I'm glad York gets some recognition of his participation and contribution to a successful expedition.

By now, the sky has turned a murky grey as we look down upon the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri Rivers. I put on all my rain covers just in case this ride turns nasty. It's always good to travel with other cyclists who really know the city. I would have never found my way along this peaceful, hardly traveled route that takes us across the Missouri near the Argosy Casino. The only downside of the whole ride was that the winds were definitely pushing from the north, creating fierce headwinds. I seemed to struggle to keep up with the group. From there it didn't take us long at all to reach Parkville.

The Lewis & Clark statue in KC

Usually, when the group rides to Parkville, they always stop at the American Legion Hall for breakfast. Even though we all had something to eat in the River Market, Doug decided we needed a second breakfast, just like hobbits. So, we piled all the bikes in the hall and had a hearty, inexpensive breakfast. Finally, finally said my goodbyes around noon, as they used that wind to push them back towards KC, I dipped my head into the wind and headed north. On the bright side, the grey had given way to bright sunshine again.

The group eating a hearty breakfast

There must have been a supported ride to and from Weston because I saw a lot more cyclists on this rural road and a few support vans. At one point I stopped under a bridge to get a break from the sun, I talked to a few of those riders. They loved the idea of biking the Lewis & Clark Trail. One woman saw my bike license plate with my name and told me she worked with one of my younger brothers. Small world isn't it.

Once I got off the county road, it was back on the highway which follows the river. Seemed pretty busy for a Sunday, as I had to get off onto the gravel shoulder frequently because of heavy traffic coming from both directions, I guess because of Fort Leavenworth on the Kansas side.

By the time I reached Weston Bend State Park, I think the sun had done a number on me both physically and mentally. I could barely get around the campground. Picked a spot and headed down to get a cold shower. When I returned, found one of the guys from this mornings ride had driven up. We checked out the Lookout Deck but you could hardly see the river because of all the trees. After paying my camping fee, he dropped me off back at my campsite. At the time I didn't know that my wallet fell out of my pocket into his car. He wished me a good adventure ahead.

I couldn't think of anything that I needed to do more than take a nap, so that's what I did. Later, much refreshed, I was putting everything away so I could do some exploring of the park when I discovered that my wallet was missing. Everyone who has had that happens knows the deep dread that you feel in your stomach when you think your credit cards, ATM cards, drivers license are all gone. I tore the campsite apart but no wallet. The only place it could be was in my friends car. But I didn't know how to contact him, having neither his phone number or email address.

Pocketmail, my email device, to the rescue. I did have one of the other bike riders email address and wrote up a quick note telling of my problem and was there anyway he could help me track down the other rider with the car. I checked every couple of hours, eventually getting a couple of email addresses. Later I found out they found him and told him to check his car for my wayward wallet.

Needless to say, I was still pretty distraught at not knowing. I only ate half my dinner and ended up just going to bed early. One thing that you will notice in the Lewis & Clark journals is they complained about the mosquitoes constantly. Even though there were steady breezes in the campsite, the pesky buggers were thick. I retreated back to the tent but it was like a sauna. Damned if you do, damned if you don't. [smile]

5/20/04 Kansas City MO

32 miles (406 total)

Had another good sleep last night. But then I guess doing a 90-mile day over hills riding a loaded touring bike will do that to ya'.

Bob & Juanita

Bob and Juanita saw me off as I headed northwest to Independence to visit my grandmother. I missed most of the rush hour traffic, so it wasn't such a bad ride. But the humidity was already climbing. Ended up again on one of those gravel shoulders and this time, I did get a flat just a few blocks from my grandmothers nursing home. Oh, well, that's why I bring all those patch kits and spare tubes.

Grandma was so happy to see me, but everyone told her I was coming by. I had hoped to surprise her, but she said she didn't know if she could take too many surprises. [laugh] Everyone we passed, she'd tell that this was her grandson who is biking across the country. Grandmother can not see, but she gave the bike a good going over with her hands and declared it a good strong bike.

With my Grandmother

After that, I stopped to visit another friend Bonnie and her son Michael. Now I was getting hungry, making my way back toward Kansas City. Passed a church have a kid's bike rally and thought they might be some of my missing Lewis & Clark cyclists, but they just kept going around in circles. Had a calzone at my favorite restaurant, Minsky's, before heading home and a few days off.

The lost Lewis & Clark bike riders?

At Minsky's

The plan is to tie up any loose ends here, get the bike worked on, and look over my gear again. Probably only two days off, then I can leave town on Sunday to avoid all the traffic going through the Kansas City downtown.

5/19/04 Blue Springs MO

90 miles (374 total)

At one point last night, I thought we might have to use Bill and Janice's canoe to escape. The rain was relentless all night long. In the morning, it had stopped but only long enough for me to pack up and get the rain gear on.

As I got closer to Marshall, it started to let up and the blue sky could be seen in the west. But to the south, the sky was filled with black. It must have passed behind me because by the time I stopped for a bit of breakfast, the sun was shinning.

Just outside of Marshall was Mr B's Family Restaurant. My smiling waitress Tammy, who had just moved here from Las Vegas, was a bit worried about the humidity. "We just get used to it." I said.

When I didn't have a shoulder to ride on, I stayed on the road until someone came up behind me, then I'd pull off and wait for them to pass. It was just a little effort but I hope some of the drivers appreciated it.

Country farms in rural Missouri

Just before reaching Higginsville, I stopped at the Confederate Memorial State Historic Site. In 1889, almost 25 years after the Civil War, a group of Confederate veterans raised enough money to purchase land to establish a haven for their less fortunate comrades. In it's 59 years of existence, the Confederate Home Farm took in more than 1,600 veterans and their wives and children. Some of the buildings remain including the chapel and I visited the cemetery.

It was getting to be a hot one today. By the time I reached Higginsville, I definitely could use a cold drink. What struck me about the town was it was so well maintained. Every house and yard, no matter rich or poor, looked like everyone took pride in where they lived. Pulled into the "Old Time Cafe". The owner commented that the town sure could use the business from all the Lewis & Clark bike riders.

Confederate Cemetery

It was only 2PM and from the map, Blue Springs didn't seem like that much farther, maybe 20-30 miles. And there is a chance of rain tonight. So I put on more sunscreen and got a full water bottle and got back out on the road.

Passed a road closed sign and wondered if it was some sort of construction I could ride through. Guess I didn't really miss the rain at all because 5 miles later I found the road closed due to flood waters. I couldn't even see the other end of all the water. The funny thing was that the bridge was dry, but everything past it was under water. Ended up taking a nightmare of a roller-coaster road detour and even had to push the bike up a few hills because I was so tired. My mileage estimate was looking a little short for the day.

The road doesn't 'look' closed?

Ended up following on the access road next to I-70 for a while. Got some sketchy directions in Oak Grove and ended up on Old Highway 40 instead of 40 Highway. Ran into another road closed sign but decided to brave it anyway. Nope, more flood water, but I was tired of taking the extra miles for a detour. So, I waited until a truck drove across the water and decided that I could do it in a bike. Got a little wet, but made it ok.

How deep do you think it is?

Riding through Blue Springs was not fun. Definitely not a bike-friendly town. Since it was rush-hour, I ended up riding most of the time on a gravel shoulder full of broken glass and trash. Finally rolled up to my aunt and uncles about 7PM after a long 90 mile day. Can you say "too much too soon!"

My aunt Juanita and uncle Bob were the same relatives that met that first day in Hartford, IL. They kept my plate full as I felt my energy restored with shower, clean clothes and a full belly. I'll sleep very well tonight.

5/18/04 Arrow Rock State Park MO

52 miles (284 total)

What a great ending to a very good day. I'm sitting here listening to Janice and Bill from Minnesota play a violin and a nykelharpa, a keyed violin.

This morning Matt and Melissa took me out for breakfast. They've been wining and dining me the whole time here. I hope I can return the favor to them someday.

Already it was overcast and smelled like rain as I rode back to the trail. But the temperature was perfectly cool compared to yesterday. The flatness and straightness of the trail was kind of getting to me, and my butt.

Met Lorna who is researching for a book on what a modern day traveler would find along the present day Lewis & Clark Trail. We stopped to look at some petroglyphs up on the limestone bluffs. But when we looked up, black clouds were quickly coming our way. I put on all my rain gear and battened down the hatches on all the gear on the bike. I figured I could make it to Rocheport before it hit. I was wrong.

Storm clouds movin' fast!

The deluge hit you in the face and tried to keep me from advancing. Stopped under some trees, but it was coming down too hard. So, just started riding. Found Lorna and a few other people taking refuge under the I-70 bridge. We waited another 20 minutes until the rain subsided enough to go on. Was pretty soaked when I stopped for a burger in Rocheport. Tried to wait out the rain, but it just kept coming. So, got on the bike and headed back out.

"It's Jim Damico!" I heard yelled. My friend Jen was out for a few days on the KATY Trail and had brought some clear weather. Her and Andy do a short trip every spring. They got caught in that downpour and took shelter with all the ladies at the New Franklin Community Center. Today is their last day on the trail. It was so good to cross paths with her.

Jen, a good friend out to meet me on the trail.

After that visit, I didn't care whether it rained or not. After riding through Boonville, I could see rain in several directions but the sky was looking clear and blue ahead. Finally got on pavement, but with a long climb out of the city. Even though it was a roller coaster of a highway, it felt good to be on the road again. Except for the couple of farm dogs that chased me, and the one guy who flipped me off.

Pulled into Arrow Rock State Park and looked around for any other cyclists. No bikers but as I passed a pickup truck with a canoe on top pulling a small trailer, "Want something cold to drink?" Hence began my friendship with Janice and Bill from Minnesota. After a wonderful impromptu concert, we had a nice visit with another couple drawn to the music.

Bill & Janice from Minnesota

Playing a nykelharpa, a type of keyed violin

5/17/04 Columbia MO

51 miles (231 total)

Soon the light was filtering through the windows and it was time to get up. Funny how your body quickly adjusts to a "sun up - sun down" kind of schedule when you're outside all the time.

At one point, I was joined by Bill Brennecke from New Bloomfield, MO. He's retired from the FDA and was trying to get some training in before tackling the whole 225-mile KATY Trail. We must have talked for 10-miles. After being alone last night, I enjoyed the company.

Bill turned around at North Jefferson. From here, you can clearly see the Capital building in Jefferson City. Actually came across a copperhead snake sunning himself on the trail near here.

As the day wore on, the temperature kept rising. And even though the trail is cool and shaded near the bluffs, a lot of it is very exposed as it cuts across farm fields. I felt as if I was getting fried. The heat just seems to sap your strength. But onward....

Mark and Pam bought the Cycle Depot in Hartsburg, MO, back in November and you couldn't meet a nicer couple. Was having some trouble with my Brooks saddle and Mark offered to call them in England and email their comments . on Monday and email their comments. Since the pay phone down by the trail didn't work, Pam insisted I use their phone to call my cousins in Columbia. This was my first time in the shop (the previous woman had very limited hours) and they had so much energy and enthusiasm that I know they'll do well. And Mark's even a frame builder.

By now I was starting to really get hot and hungry. Because it's Sunday, I'm sure I'll have to go all the way to Columbia before I can get something to eat. Stopped a few times just to gaze on the Might Mo. Still hard to believe Lewis & Clark went "up stream."

Just past Easley, stopped to chat with Mike Cooper at Cooper's Landing, one of the few full-service marinas on the river here in Missouri. Besides fishing tackle and bait, he has fuel, camping, cabins and even a Thai Restaurant. He's hoping for a good summer with all the business being brought in by the Lewis & Clark Bicentennial.

Finally reached the spur that would take me to Columbia. The MKT Trail is an 8-mile trail that is shaded most of the way right to the downtown. Even so, I ended up stopping several times just to rest. Once I reached pavement, I had to get a quick bite to eat before heading over to my cousins.

Matt couldn't believe it had been three years since I rode through here last. We went out to eat at the Flatbranch and met his brother Brian with his girlfriend, Blaire. These guys are great family. Later, we met up with Matt's wife, Melissa, who had been tutoring Korean kids in English all evening, at Mojo's to listen to some local music. Matt and a few musician friends started their own music label Emergency Umbrella. Had some great discussions with Melissa. Ended up staying for all three bands before heading back home. All in all, a good ending to a good day.

Matt & Melissa

5/16/04 Tebbets MO

56 miles (180 total)

At almost dark, Derek and Kerry rode in. They looked beat and hungry. I told them about camping at Loretta's and that sounded good to them. Since the restaurant was closed, they ended up getting something to eat at the gas station out on the highway. I think Kerry was disappointed when I told her about the Sunday Brunch at Loretta's because they had to leave early if they were going to make their train in St Louis.

Kerry & Derek

A good first night in the tent. Forgot how cramped it can get in there. Loaded up the bike and enjoyed that brunch inside. Almost ate too much before setting off. The weather looked iffy, so I had all the rain covers on plus had on my rain jacket. I shouldn't have worried.

The sun began to warm things up by the time I reached Peers. Met two other cyclists, Gary from Clayton and Tim from Merriville. Tim actually recognized me from the website. Cool, now I'm a celebrity. Tim was headed the other direction but Gary asked to join me for a bit.

Gary kept getting ahead, probably because I was pulling a lot of gear. He finally said his goodbyes at the McKittrick trailhead where I took a side trip to a grocery store just up the highway. Picked out some dinner and tomorrows breakfast.

Today, the trail was teaming with wildlife. Early, I saw a fox. Then later what I guess was a woodchuck, a very large woodchuck. But I've also seen black snakes, eagles, turtles, lizards of many colors and your various rabbits and squirrels. I keep seeing this small bright blue finch. I wonder what it's called?

Just a little too slow for me

Stopped by Steamboat Junction for a candy bar and chatted a bit with Mrs Benz. Her family owns a house that was built from the wood of a wrecked steamboat called the "Clara".

The Mighty Missouri

Then, after a long day in the saddle, I arrived in Tebbets. When I was here in 2001, Mrs Turner was still alive and tending a small store next door. It had rained that day, and she asked me to go out and dry her dog off so he didn't track any mud into the house. I was wet already, so I didn't mind.

Mrs Turner originally bought the building that would become the "Turner KATY Trail Shelter" to prevent it from being turned into a tavern. It stayed vacant for years before she decided to donate its use as a hostel for youth groups and KATY Trail riders. One local resident said Mrs Turner is probably turning over in her grave because her old store had been turned into, yes you guessed it, a tavern.

So, I sit here again, another three years later, all alone in this big hostel. I fear this is going to be the trend along the whole Lewis & Clark Trail. I can handle it but it's not what I expected. I'll just have to take each day as it comes, with or without fellow cyclists.

5/15/04 Marthasville MO

42 miles (124 total)

Woke up to glorious blue skies today. You don't know how much that lift's our spirits.

After a quick breakfast at the outrageously expensive motel (everything was booked because of the Lewis & Clark Festival in St Charles this weekend), Dwinda drove us back out of town so we could drop Nomad off. It was so great to travel these first few days together. After an emotional goodbye with Nomad, she then drove me back to St Charles.

Nomad & Dwinda

Clark, Seaman & Lewis

The funny thing is that I arrived in St Charles on this festival weekend three years ago on my cross-country ride. Only this time it was a much bigger celebration. I actually stayed awhile and even watched most of the parade down Main Street. But the day was half over and I had at least 4 or 5 hours of riding ahead of me.

The Corps of Discovery 2004

Searched in vain for a grocery store to stock up on supplies for the next few days. Just decided to take my chances on finding something down the trail. A few miles past the casino, the trail took on it's green tunnel personality. Lots of people out and it was good to see whole families biking together. A long stretch of nothing but the trail out of St Charles.

In Defiance, I stopped for some frozen custard. Mmmm good! Then decided to get a burger at the joint next door. But still had miles to do, so hit the road again.

Finally got to Marthasville just before 6PM. Stopped off at Scenic Cycles to say howdy. They too were surprised at the low numbers of cyclists doing the Lewis & Clark Trail.

Went into Loretta's to ask if I could camp out back of her restaurant like I did three years ago. Loretta is all heart. Since I had that late lunch burger, decided on the salad bar. I'm trying to eat a bit better than my other trips.

I don't mind admitting that I'm pretty exhausted. Think I'll turn in early and write this down tomorrow.

Loretta

5/14/04 St Charles MO

49 miles (72 total) miles

The weather report said we had 4 to 5 inches of rain yesterday and I believe it. Listening to it continue to rain made it awfully hard to get out of bed. But rain or no, we were going. I said my "see ya' later" to Nomad and Dwinda and headed out into the steady rain. At least it wasn't like yesterday's deluge. I was a little exposed riding the path along the canal levee but it was pretty flat.

Chaos was the order of the day at the Lewis & Clark State Memorial Center. Tour buses full of seniors and yellow school buses were dropping off way too many people for the few places sheltered from the rain. But even with that, my aunt Juanita yelled at me from the crowd. It was so nice to have a familiar face to see me off. Unfortunately almost everything at the Center was canceled. That didn't seem to dampen anyone's spirits though.

The surprise of the day was that Jim Fogel, a friend and cyclist from Kansas City, and I were the only cyclists there to start the Lewis & Clark Trail on the anniversary. I mean no one else showed up. Maybe because of the rain? I don't know. But I did meet a guy, Neil Rosenblad, who is going to kayak up the Missouri. Last year he floated the Ohio and Mississippi following the route taken after the keelboat was built. And including Nomad, that made only four of us hearty souls following this history.

The good news was that the rain had almost stopped. At Wood River Creek, I found two of the Lewis & Clark pirogues tied up with several re-enactors standing watch. Peter Belt said they were part of the group that was going to recreate the entire two and one half year journey for the Bicentennial. Now that would be a great trip.

Cropland in Missouri

Crossing the Mississippi

Still pretty cloudy as I stopped for lunch at Alton, IL. From there it was a pleasant ride along the bluffs to Grafton where I caught the ferry across the Mississippi. Jim had given me directions for a shorter, more pleasant route to St Charles and he didn't steer me wrong. With the cooler temperatures, flat roads, and a tailwind, it was almost a perfect afternoon for a ride.

5/13/04 Granite City MO

24 miles (33 total)

Four AM came early, as we drove to St Louis to get to the Arch by 9. A little overcast but that didn't diminish the impressive Gateway Arch. I would have liked to take the tram up to the top, but it was a 60 minute round trip, plus you had to wait for the next one. So, another time perhaps.

Nomad and I should have had a premonition after we got lost in the parking garage. We followed the riverfront bike path but we had to go farther than expected because we couldn't get past the flood wall. Although Nomad was confident in his maps, I seemed to be very lost trying to find the Bellefontaine Cemetery where William Clark is buried.

It just started to rain once we got to Clark's grave marker. The cemetery secretary, Jeanie, came out to take our pictures and asked us to autograph them. The folks in the office were very nice to us, even letting us use the restrooms.

At William Clark's grave site

But as we left the cemetery, the rain started coming down. The only way to the Chain-of-Rocks Bridge had you traveling a main road with semi traffic with no shoulder. At some parts I was able to use the bike path but not all. Let's just say I got wetter. [smile]

At the bridge, which is the old Route 66 and now only open to walkers and cyclists, I found a small awning in which to get out of the rain. I had only enough room to stand but still got wet because of the winds. Then it really started to come down. At one point, I could only see 100 feet in front of me because the downpour was so heavy.

While I waited, I knew Nomad was getting soaked, not only by the rain, but by the trucks too. An hour or so when he finally met me, he looked like a drowned rat. But as we started across the bridge, the rain turned to just a sprinkle.

Once on the Illinois side, we waited for Dwinda to drive up. As wet as we were, we decided to splurge on a motel room for the night. I decided to stay while Nomad walked the additional miles to the Lewis & Clark State Memorial Center. Dwinda and I later picked him up and got him dry and fed. Oh, he'll sleep like a bear tonight. [smile]

Unfortunately, they're calling for more rain tomorrow. That could cancel even more of the Lewis & Clark Bicentennial celebrations planned for both sides of the river.