10/24/02 Kansas City, USA

A sort of a hurry up and wait kind of morning. Took a short subway ride to the airport where I still needed to exchange my tickets for an earlier flight. That taken care of, said goodbye to Josué with a promise to keep in touch. Hopefully I'll see him again, maybe next summer.

I'm finally heading home.

10/23/02 Madrid

On the recommendation of a travel agent, I'm going to fly home tomorrow. Because next week is November 1st is All Saints Day. It is a big deal here in Spain and a lot of people will be traveling. At first I was going to take the bus from Salas, but at the last minute, Amparo and I drove to Burgos. Good thing I packed last night.

After confirming my new airline reservation, we went to the bus station to find out about getting to Madrid. Not sure if I was lucky or not but a bus for Madrid was leaving right then, that very minute. Paid my 12 € and ran for the door. Barely got to say goodbye to Amparo. This bus takes an hour less than the one from Salas, but I didn't get a chance to call Josué. He's kind enough to let me stay the night at his folks apartment, so it will be easier to catch my plane in the morning.

Amparo said this is all working out for the best. The weather in Salas probably won't improve by next week. And she said I'm a different person after my Camino. Quieter, less animated, not talking much. Maybe my head is so full of two months of intense Spain, that my poor brain needs time to sort it all out. Or maybe I'm just exhausted after walking 900-km in 36-days without a break. Only time will tell I suppose.

I called Josué and told him that I was in Madrid about three hours earlier than expected. He was just sitting down to lunch but said it should take him about an hour to get to the bus station from across town. "No problem" I say.

In Madrid, I find out there are four bus stations. Josué tells me that 90% of the buses arrive at one station and from my description it sounds like the one I'm at. But as time went from an hour to two, one question he asked me kept nagging at my brain. "Which station are you at?" This one seemed huge, almost more like an airport with multiple terminals and everything, with hundreds of people coming and going. At three hours, I knew I had guessed wrong, but what to do.

I looked up and finally saw a familiar face. Andreia was running toward me with Rick close behind. "I knew you'd be here!" she said giving me another of her warm embraces. She had met Josué at the big bus station, and while he went home to wait for another call from me, Andreia had decided to try this smaller bus station. It was good to see her and Rick again. We had some hot chocolate while waiting for Josué to arrive.

Turns out this bus station is within walking distance of Josué's home. It was a beautiful evening, so we walked instead of taking the subway. Two of his sisters are traveling, one in Berlin and another in Kenya, so there's room for me to stay with his family.

Like everyone I've met in Spain, Josué's family were so generous. His mother made me a quick meal that was wonderful. Afterward, I sat and talked with Josué's whole family, at least everyone that was home. His father works in the courts, while his mother was a nurse before she had all these kids to take care of, three girls and two boys. Josué's grandmother is 93 and still full of life. I loved her smile. His sister seemed a little occupied helping to take care of one of their cousins who proudly said he was five.

When the family heard I was coming back to Spain next summer, they invited me to come stay with them in their big house on the Galician Coast. So generous.

10/22/02 Salas de los Infantes

Feeling a little better but I still have that nagging cough. Ventured out to mail postcards. Even though I had about thirty cards, the postmaster said he would put all the stamps on for me. I walked around town a bit but it doesn't take long to see the whole place. Eventually wind and rain drove me back inside. Spent the rest of the day transcribing some of this journal.

10/21/02 Salas de los Infantes

The weather outside is definitely Fall leading into Winter. It's cloudy with occasional rain all day. I've been doing absolutely nothing but watch the rain lash at the windows. The wind is cold and fierce so I'm glad I'm not outside 'walking'.

Amparo and Santi have made me one of the family. "You know where the kitchen is if you want anything." Amparo said. I think the weather is making Miranda cranky because she's cooped up inside. Lucky for her mother, she spends a few hours at school.

10/20/02 Salas de los Infantes

A very warm morning as Larissa and I walked the early morning hours to the train station. Met a few other pilgrims like Rejean from Quebec.

No more walking!

Because most of the others were traveling to France and Germany, I was in a car at the far end of the train. Typical train weather for me as we sped through a rainy countryside. Even so, the fall colors were beautiful. No reds, but a lot of golden yellow leaves turning. After leaving the mountains of the west, we then went through fields of endless golden corn ready for harvest. Too many memories of home.

Found Larissa in the dinning car. It is so hard to leave friends for what might be forever. I gave her the last of my chocolate to her. And gave her a warm hug goodbye. I will miss her.

Saying goodbye to Larissa on the train

Santi picked me up at the station. I wonder if Ampero and Santi realized they were adopting me into the family when I signed up to be a student. I would be lost in Spain without them. Had a small reunion as both Tina with her son Ian and José and Nati with Javier came by to welcome me back.

A tiring day even though I didn't walk much. I miss the Camino already. A strong desire or maybe a compulsion is driving me home. I just want to sit on the couch with my nieces Lauren and Andrea sprawled with me as one big tangle of puppies relaxing. Home soon.

10/19/02 Santiago de Compostela

Another beautiful day in paradise. Spent the morning just sitting down by the harbour with my friends. Josué already left this morning at 7am on his way home to Madrid. Most of the others were staying an extra day in Finisterre.

Colorful harbor of Finisterre

Getting on the bus, my whole 'pilgrim family' saw me off. Lots of hugs from Jessie and Camille, even Max and Isaac couldn't resist. Christopher and Vicente were there too. It felt like leaving my brothers and sisters.

Mi Familia: Isaac, Christopher, Max, Camille, Jim, Mary

I didn't fell well on the bus. The emotional parting was a factor, but lunch didn't sit well in my stomach and the bus was as hot as a sauna. Had to change buses in Baio. Thankfully it was a much cooler bus.

Back in Santiago, checked into the alburgue at the seminary, then off to the train station to get my ticket to Burgos. After shopping for family for what seemed like hours, I was exhausted. Later I met Larissa for dinner back again at Café Manolo. Had a difficult time getting to sleep, probably just too tired. My last night in a refugio.

10/18/02 Finisterre

38 km

The nights are getting pretty cold. Since the Camino is more rugged now, most of us decided to wait for light before setting out. At the bar, many of us gathered for a morning cup of coffee or cocoa. The woman who owned the bar was very cheerful despite the early hour.

As darkness faded with the first rays of sunlight, you could see it was going to be another great day. In this wet and rainy country-side, we have been truly blessed with these last days of beautiful weather.

As we walked down more remote farm roads, you could see blankets of fog in the valley and hear the crash of mountain streams below. Then, as the sun peaked over the mountains, that golden glow touched everything.

Our only real obstacle of the day, besides our long mileage, was a stream crossing. There might have been a bridge or stepping-stones once, but not now. So we all took turns fording the icy waters to the other side.

Part of the morning I walked with Max, but mostly I walked alone except with my thoughts. As I finish this pilgrimage, I realized that even though most of us are in some sort of transition, and that most of my group are younger than I am, they've all taught me something. The hard part will be to remember and keep learning once I'm at home.

Outside of Cee, while still high above, I thought I saw the horizon of the ocean, but Max thought it might be clouds. We didn't have to go much further before we both realized that, yes, we had reached the Atlantic Ocean at last.

Town of Cee

Our route took us through many large and small seaside villages, complete with colorful boats bobbing in the harbour and white sandy beaches. But it's a long walk to the 'end of the earth.' Got lost once and started to follow the road, but some nice people showed us a shortcut through gardens and back alleys to again find the Camino.

The surprise of the day happened when I stepped off the path to get a better picture of some boats. Down below on a rock overlook was a backpack and a guy with red hair. Instantly I knew it had to be Isaac. He knew today was special and had taken the bus from Santiago to be here with his familia de perigrinos.

We finally see Finisterre!

In Finesterre, the alburgue was still closed, so we all decided to keep our backpacks and head to the lighthouse another four kilometers away. Everyone seemed to have an almost giddy excitement about them as we came closer to the end of "the way."

This working lighthouse helps protect ships from the 'coast of death' as it's called around here. We dropped our packs and carefully began the long difficult climb down the cliffs to the water's edge. We had truly reached the "End of the Earth".

That way to America

Most of the afternoon and evening, I spent just gazing out over the ocean and thinking of home just across the water. As the sun got lower and lower, more of my fellow pilgrims began arriving. Many found quiet spots among the rocks for their own special time alone. But eventually, with the pull of "the way" released, we all shared in many an embrace and a few tears. I was very happy to be done but a little sad because all too soon, we would be continuing on our way in different directions.

Sun setting at the end of the world

Our last dinner together included Mary, Jessie, Josué, Max, Christopher, Patrick, Annette, Larissa, Vincente, Camille and Isaac. Also with us was James, a homeless man who found himself on the Camino as he was trying to make his way south. Our hospitalero lifted curfew for us so we could really sit down and have a good meal without having to rush back.

The whole gang is here to celebrate!!!

10/17/02 Olveiroa

33 km

What a beautiful day!

Slept again down in the lounge last night because of my coughing. Wondering now if its related to my hiatus hernia, so I started taking my medication again.

Woke up to thick fog all around. Christopher provided breakfast after a late run to the store last night. It's amazing how everyone looks after each other. No grabbing or eating too much. People seem to make sure the other guy has eaten before themselves. And there have been a few good-natured fights over who is going to wash the dishes.

The fog still hugged the ground as we left the alburgue but you could see blue sky above. Yippie! A lot of the morning had us using ancient tracks through pasture and forest. A few clouds would appear but the sun definitely dominated the day.

Larissa, Camille & Max

Even though it was a long 33-km today, it was a pleasant walk through all the farms. It seemed as if the sun brought out all the people to take advantage of it. I think I said hello to and saw more farmers today than any other.

Jim at home in the corn

At one break this morning, Larissa suggested I listen to what my gut feeling was about my plans to visit England and Switzerland. Although I love my friends, I just think I need to go home. So I head back to Salas after this Camino for a few days and see if I can get my plane ticket changed to a few weeks earlier.

The refugio is a wonderful adaptation of several existing buildings. I have to say that these alburgues between Santiago and Finesterre, while small, are some of the best on the entire Camino. And later the hospitalero cooked a huge pot of rice soup with vegetables and squid. Just a great place.

10/16/02 Negreira

22 km

Glorious sunshine this morning!

To another late start out of the alburgue but the sun was out and was trying to push the clouds out of the neighborhood. Set out with Max and Josué. As we cut cross-country, the trail was more a single path through thick brush and forests.

Three or four times we donned raingear because of heavy rain but it usually didn't last long. Eventually made our way to Negreira just before another downpour.

Walking through a rain forest

While waiting for others to arrive, Josué and I went shopping for dinner. Cooked spaghetti for nine: Camille, Christopher, Vincente, Max, Jessie, Patrick, Larissa, Josué, Annette, and I. Later had more pleasant discussion with Larissa and then Patrick.

Just today, I began to feel that sadness that is inevitable in a few days when I reach Finesterre. It will be very difficult to leave the comfort of my companions.

10/15/02 Santiago de Compostela

25 km

Had to walk back up the highway another kilometer just to get some dinner last night but it was good. I'll miss these meals with all my friends.

Continued to have a rough night because of this cough. I just can't seem to shake it. We all wanted to be out of the refugio early but I think we didn't leave until sometime after 8am.

It was threatening rain all day. Too hot to wear your raingear but too cold to go without it. Most of the day I just pushed hard to get closer to Santiago. Just outside the city, I caught up with Josué and Max. It felt better walking to the cathedral with friends.

Cathedral of St James

Tree of Jesse

Embracing the saint behind the alter

We literally ran into Andreia as she gave us all a great big hug and a kiss. Rick was with her too. So the whole group of us went through the cathedral together. First to put your hand on the pillar of St James, then to hug the alter statue from behind. Then the path took us to the crypt were the relics (bones) are kept. Kind of anti-climatic. Finesterre will probably be more powerful to me.

Max, Josué, Rick, Andreia, Jim, Christopher

For dinner, everyone headed to Casa de Manolo, a popular pilgrim hangout because they have a very inexpensive meal. The amazing part is that it seemed a very swank restaurant. Soon every table was taken by perigrinos, some I knew, a few I recognized but one and all pilgrims. I was glad to be there because a few would not be going on and this would be my last time to see them. Was sad to say goodbye to Andreia but maybe I will see her in Madrid before I leave for the USA.

With my Italian angel Benadetta

But while we were eating, a major storm hit the city. On our run back to the alburgue, we literally had to wade across one street. The rain came in buckets. I think all of us were wearing the only dry clothes we had before that run. At the Seminario Menor de la Asunción, we sloshed our way up three flights of stairs leaving a wet trail behind us.

My cough is still with me but I feel good otherwise. I just hope we have a bit of good weather at Finesterre.

Celebrating with wonderful friends

10/14/02 Santa Irene

30 km

Another late start but who could blame anyone what with the rain just pouring outside. Not really looking forward to today's walk.

Galicia is supposed to be one of the wettest places in Europe. And despite the rain, it was a beautiful walk through the countryside. A few ups and downs, but not much work. All the streams were overflowing their banks and my feet were getting pretty wet and muddy. It's so wet here they have to use concrete fence posts.

Fall turning the leaves golden

Stopped for a burger in Arzua and talked with Max. Once Josué arrived, we all decided to keep on going, making it a shortened day to Santiago tomorrow. Turned out a very good idea because the heavy winds blew some of the rain away and we even had a bit of sunshine.

Pushed hard the last few kilometers because those same winds were getting stronger with lots more black clouds to come our way.

Racing those black rain clouds

10/13/02 Melide

26 km

Believe it or not, yesterday was a national holiday because Spain changed the course of world history by paying an Italian to sail west and see if he fell off the edge of the earth.

Last night I ended up sleeping in the rec-room so I wouldn't wake people up with my coughing. Not a bad sleep because I didn't have to worry about anyone but me. I kept taking fluids and Christopher gave me some of his homemade homeopathy cough medicine.

This morning was a lazy day. I don't think anyone in my room got out of bed before 9am, some sort of record for an alburgue. After some tea and sweet bread, as we were getting ready to leave, other pilgrims began arriving from the previous refugios. Saw Claude and her mom. And who should walk up but Larissa. Every time I think she's ahead of me, she seems to catch me from behind. She had word that Isaac was close behind but Gelko wasn't close at all.

Max up ahead walking in the rain and mist

As our 'house mother' Maria Paz sent us merrily on our way, it began to fog and mist. Not enough to use the umbrella, but enough to get wet without some sort of raingear. Another oddity today was having to move aside to let a group of ATV riders pass. I could tell they were pilgrims by the conch shells attached to their vehicles. Sad.

Josué walking with Rocio

As the day and kilometers went by, it got wetter and wetter. The only consolation is that the Camino here is a pretty nice surface, usually a wide path of crushed limestone. Sometimes when it crosses a road, we even get stone paving blocks for that fancy crosswalk.

Not really feeling great and I don't really like these large refugios in the bigger cities. After an ice cold shower, we all headed to Pulperia Ezequiel for a traditional Galician meal of octopus. It's boiled in a big tub and served on wooden platters. I just wish I was feeling better to really judge it's taste.

I was amazed to find a pharmacy open late on a Sunday night. Josué went with me to see if they could give me anything for this cough.

Wonderful color found even on this gloomy day

10/12/02 Eirexe/Airexe

38 km

Walking in the land of enchantment

I decided this morning that I really wanted to finish this pilgrimage with my perigrino 'family'. So that meant a long day ahead. I didn't know if I could catch them, but I at least wanted to get closer.

No clouds this morning, just a dense fog. It wasn't hot or cold but it sure was humid. Finally had to remove my raingear. It wasn't going to rain, it just felt like it.

Rocky, wet, winding road

All day the Camino wound it's way across the landscape, passing through many pueblos that probably were just large dairy farms. And every once in a while, the sun beamed across my path. I love the sun.

I crossed the River Miño over a bridge extremely high above the water. A good thing because I wouldn't want to climb down and up again. The town of Portomarín was rebuilt high above the river. But since the Camino didn't go through town, I couldn't justify climbing any farther than necessary. Skipped the town and kept going.

At one point, I crossed by the marker signifying 100 kilometers to go to Santiago. Hopefully my friends haven't gone too far ahead. A few other pilgrims at the restaurant in Hospital de la Cruz could only tell me the others were ahead somewhere. I decided to push on despite my feet hurting pretty bad.

An old woman moves her cattle to pasture

I have the flu today. Last night I couldn't stop coughing. While walking, I seem OK, but I'm not looking forward to the paybacks from this high mileage.

As I approached the refugio in Airexe, I was overjoyed to see Max juggling while Josué was talking with his friend Rocio, a fellow psych student here to walk a few days with him. I'm so glad I didn't have to go on, although I would have to find my friends.

Later, we all went to dinner at the house next door. Such a great family. We ate at the dining room table and they hardly charged us for what we ate. After dinner, the father of the house insisted on giving everyone shots of orujo. Much laughter followed.

As we get ready for bed, a bunch of us including Camille, Christopher and Ferdenand (France) are sitting in front of the fireplace with flames chasing away the cold of the night.

Enjoying the warmth of the fire and friendship

10/11/02 Barbadelo

33 km

A very cold morning today. Even at 11am, I could see my breath as I walked. I chose a route towards the monastery at Samos that was longer but avoided a lot of highway.

A very pleasant walk none the less as I left Triacastela. About two kilometers from town, there was huge waterfall. I found a path that made its way to the base. So much of Galicia reminds me of the Northwest. I followed the road most of the way to Samos but there was very little traffic.

A hidden waterfall

If it wasn't for the occasional plastic chair or new car, I would have though I had traveled back in time. Today, a few villages clearly were built without cars or even horse-drawn carts in mind.

This is a land where many a Celt relocated probably because it seemed the same as Ireland; rocky, wet and hilly. They believe in witches and sprites here and I thought I heard a few. My path led me down heavily covered trees and stone fences with moss as I followed a river downstream almost all day.

Monastery in Samos

I didn't really like the rain and mist but it could have been worse. At one point I had a fork in the path not mentioned in the guidebook. I took the dirt road and ended up shaving some mileage off my day. Found myself popping out of an alley in a small village, just as a few pilgrims were coming down the 'road' route.

In Sarria, I went looking for some hot food to eat when I ran into Cesar and Sonia again. They are such a neat couple. Sonia thinks Cesar is very tired of walking alone, and she really wants to walk the Camino again. So, tomorrow, whether it's 2 or 20 kilometers, she's back on the road. I came upon Isaac and we decided to keep going despite the rain.

We are at a small refugio but still way behind our friends. Gelko showed up much earlier than I expected. We all talked about our desire to finish the Camino among our perigrino 'family'.

Follow the yellow arrows

Had a great dinner at La Casa de Carmen. Isaac is quickly improving his English while I work on my Spanish. Joining us were Gelko and Alfonso. Too much food and way too much wine, but the cheese cake 'tart de queso' was divine.

10/10/02 Triascastela

20 km

It was a very cold morning outside the sleeping bag. I think everyone would have been happier if there had been some snow outside like a few mornings ago. As it was, it looked like a miserable day to be on the road.

Because the fog was so thick, Larissa and I waited until it was light before leaving the refugio. The freezing wind seemed to cut right through my clothes. But 'Thank God!' it wasn't raining. After stopping for some hot cocoa in Alto de Poio, we kept descending the mountains, putting more distance between us and the clouds.

Santiago fighting the wind

The sun was more elusive this morning but it poked through on occasion. The Camino went through many more small pueblos, barely bigger than large family farms. Once, I saw a farmer wife wearing wooden shoes to protect her feet from the mud and manure. Twice I had to let a farmer drive his cattle down the main street, usually the only street. The dogs seem to be bigger here but always chained up. With the cooler weather, they seemed so cold and miserable.

The closer I got to Triacastela, the more the sun came out. The greens of the trees, plants and moss seemed to come alive with the sunlight. Not a bad day of walking because it was all generally downhill. But I also hope it's warmer too.

Talking with Larissa today, I realize that I know a lot of things intellectually, some quite extensively, but I don't put them into practice. In terms of spirituality, eastern medicine and philosophy, I can 'talk the talk', but I don't 'walk the walk.' If I believe, I should be showing others by my example instead of only participating in discussions about these topics.

Walkin' down a country lane

Josué, Max and Larissa continued on after stopping here for a break. And while I was at the store, Benedetta and Gianluigi came through too. I am a little sad to be separated from them this close to Santiago. But if it's meant to be, I'll see them again.

Isaac and Gelko are here tonight. And I spent a lot of time with Sonia and Cesar.

10/9/02 O'Cebreiro

31 km

Felt pretty good this morning. A lot better than I had expected. Had a good breakfast of donuts and a liquid yogurt they have here in Spain. Rained all night but had stopped just for a bit as we left the refugio.

Horse grazing by a stream

Josué and I expected the road route out of Villafranca to be bad but there is a new highway so we walked the old one. Hardly saw a car on the road. The good part was it followed the river. All around us were mountains and believe it or not, we began to see some blue sky.

Walked most of the way with Josué and Max. The distance seemed to fly by as we walked gradually uphill. The only break we took was in La Faba for some hot chocolate. We left Max there as he was having a coffee with one of the older women of the village by the fire.

Max shares warm drinks by fire

The whole day was special. Kind of cool but when it rained, it only lasted a few minutes. The reward was when the golden sunlight hit the countryside. It really lit up the colors of this land. Took lots of pictures.

The final push of the day was a fast climb of 600-m (~2000') in a short 8-km. Two of the villages we walked through could only be reached by a steep rocky dirt path. But everywhere the sun came out, we seemed to be re-energized. That is until we reached the top. Here, we entered Galicia, Josué's birthplace and the province where Santiago is located. Dark clouds met us coming over the mountain with rain and hail. Welcome to Galicia!

The streets were empty of people because of the weather. The refugio at the end of town was a welcome sight indeed. A surprise was that the hospitalero was Sonya. I met her and Cesar in Rabanal. He's a plumber and she's a hospice nurse. She had arrived here the day before by bus because she thinks she has a torn tendon in her knee. So, they were volunteers for the day.

The weather moves fast in these mountains. In the late afternoon, the sun had pushed the clouds away but not the cold wind. The view of the surrounding valleys was as if out of a fairy tale. O'Cebreiro is at 1300-m (>5000'). You could see several small hamlets in almost any direction. In town they are restoring several of the pallosas which are round stone buildings with a conical thatched roof common to areas settled by the Celts.

Fairy tale view from O Cebreiro

A 'pallosa' with its thatched roof

The surprise of the day was the arrival of Benedetta, my Italian 'Angel'. She had walked 38-km to get here tonight. She said she loved the note I had left for her in Rabanal. Later, after dinner I joined her, Jon Luigi, Vicente and Larissa for a nightcap.

Vicente, Larissa, Gianluigi & Benedetta enjoy dinner

With the sun down and the cold mists blowing through, it was going to be a very cold night here in the mountains.

10/8/02 Villafranca del Bierzo

24 km

Woke up to cloudy skies and cool temperatures. It was a long walk out of the city. So much new construction everywhere. But in the rain and gloom, the city just wasn't that attractive at all.

This morning, once we were out of the city, the Camino led us through quiet country roads that seemed asleep under a blanket of mist. Saw a lot of small pumpkin patches.

Beware old men in black

Just a long walk today and I'm not feeling well. Plus I keep having pain in the toes of my left foot. After Cacabelos, we had to literally walk the highway for five kilometers. It was a relief to finally get off the busy pavement and onto a gravel farm road. Lots of vineyards ripe for picking but the weather seemed to keep the work to a minimum. But once off the highway as we climbed the final hill to Villafranca, it started to rain. My jacket was too hot, so once again, the umbrella came in handy.

Hillsides were covered with vineyards

Passed by the city alburgue to head directly to Ave Fenix, a private refugio run by Jesús Jato and his family. Another place with character. The refugio had been destroyed in a fire, so they still have some more work to finish the rebuilding. A very nice touch was the star-shaped skylights.

But I feel terrible. My throat hurts and I have that all-over-body ache like the flu. Just great. Got cleaned up and went to bed for a couple of hours. I felt better but worried about tomorrow. It's a long 31-km with the most single-day climbing of the whole trip. And with it pouring rain outside, I'm not happy.

But with my friends, anything is possible. Had a cheeseburger tonight for dinner with Max. And Josué says Benedetta is very close behind. I would love to see my Italian angel again.

10/7/02 Ponferrada

23 km

The problem with sleeping in an attic without windows or electricity is that it's almost dangerous if you have to get up to go outside for a little thing like taking a piss. I waited as long as I could, but made my way down the ladder at 7am. Had trouble getting the door open until José woke up. That was alright though because he wanted to get up early to start making hot coffee and milk for everyone's breakfast.

The most amazing thing about this place high in the mountains is the night sky. I haven't seen the Milky Way so clearly in a long time. Simply amazing.

Everyone had been telling us about rain in the forecast but as we looked up to a clear sky this morning, I knew we'd have at least one more day of sunshine on the Camino.

If yesterday was like walking through Missouri, today was like climbing in Colorado. Instead of road, most of the morning was on dirt trail as we made our way through the mountains. I just love it here!

Torbin climbing down to El Acebo

The Camino topped over a ridge and we had to climb down on a switchback trail to reach the mountain village of El Acebo. Had a bocadillo de casa that after it was made, the entire thing was fried. Need those calories to keep going!

Pilgrim cyclist memorial

All the villages now are made of stone but with wooden balconies over the street. The Camino became another steep descent down from Riego de Ambrós that reminded me a lot like the Appalachian Trail. When I saw a grove of old chestnut trees, I knew it was time for a break.

At the back of the grove was a grandfather of trees presiding over the others. Some of its branches were trees themselves. Soon Josué, Max, Mark, and Isaac joined me. Again, I was surprised when other pilgrims barely glanced at the grove. It was a very peaceful place for a nap or to read.

Isaac reading under a great tree

It was a long descent out of the mountains down to Molinaseca in the valley below. You entered the city crossing a Romanesque bridge called the Puente de Peregrinos. The water in this mountain stream was freezing, numbing my feet after only a few seconds. Still a good day, so I decided to keep going to Ponferrada, another eight kilometers away.

Puente de Peregrinos

Came over a slight hill an hour later to view a huge city in the valley ahead. Maybe I should have stayed in the much smaller Molinaseca. Nothing to do but keep going.

Many layers of mountains in the distance surround the valley. On the closer hillsides, you could see the area is in the middle of the grape harvest. Almost every five minutes, another tractor would pass by pulling a cart full of grapes. When I passed through Campo, you could see courtyards full of baskets of grapes. I wish I spoke Spanish better because I would have liked to ask them if I could help with the picking. They'd probably think I was crazy.

Grape harvest

The Camino wound it's way through a quiet corner of this metropolis. At the alburgue, I met Barbara, an American spending two weeks of her pilgrimage helping out as a hospitalero, a wonderful woman.

Templar Castle

Next to the refugio is the Chapel of El Carmen. A simple church with a colorful fresco painted on its dome ceiling depicting the history of the Camino. A perfect compliment to this is the retablos, which are all unpainted wood. Just a powerful place. I sat in the first row, closest to the dome ceiling and tried to hum my pilgrim prayers. The sound echoed, taking my thoughts farther out into the universe.

Chapel of El Carmen

Every time I think she's ahead of me, I seem to bump into Larissa. We made a very good dinner that at the same time was simple and cheap. I so enjoy sharing my thoughts with friends without fear of judgment, ridicule or argument.

Soon after a light rain, Josué, Gellko, Max and Isaac arrived. Even though I saw them this morning, because I hadn't expected them here now, it was like a reunion again. I hope I remember that when dealing with my family and friends back home. Every meeting is special because you never know when will be the next or the last.