9/30/02 El Burgo Ranero

31 km

A nice walk alone among the stars as I left Terradillos. A peaceful walk as both the sunlight and I made our way west to Sahagún.

Grain silos ahead in Sahagún

The very young, very pleasant hospitalero greeted me at the door of the alburgue. Although I only wanted a sello and maybe to use the bathroom, I was overjoyed when she said the perigrinos had free internet access at this refugio. After answering a few emails, I got a sandwich 'to go' from the bar across the street. Got a few more pilgrim photos before Camille and I made our way to the edge of town.

Claude [Canada]

Virginie [France]

Camille [Switzerland]

Brad & Ben Kammin [USA]

As with a few other places along the Camino, the way divided a few kilometers outside of town. I ended up taking the main route that cut across the plains. It was remarkable in that the entire path from Calzada del Coto to El Burgo Ranero (~14 km) was lined with trees planted specifically to provide shade for those pilgrims walking during the 1999 Jacobian Holy Year. Too bad the sky was overcast and threatening to storm later.

Camille, Jessie & Chris walk the tree-lined Camino

But I couldn't resist a photo-op in a cornfield when Jesse, Chris and Camille caught up to me. I continued to walk with them despite my shorter legs. [smile] I was a little sad that they were going to continue on for a killer-day of some 44 km. Said goodbye and headed for the alburgue.

Corn, corn, corn...

The wonderful Carmine, the hospitalero, welcomed me but said the beds were all full. "Would you mind sleeping on the floor?" Considering that I've carried my air mattress for almost 400-km, I'm glad to finally use it. I was the first but not the last to find a spot on the floor to sleep.

Headed across the street and who do I see eating lunch at the bar but Jessie, Chris and Camille. They decided to get something to eat before pushing on. We chatted for a while, and when they lifted their backpacks to leave, it started to rain.

Just a little dust from the road

While they kept walking, I went into the bar to have a beer with Brad. Soon, the sprinkles turned into a cold downpour and I hoped my friends had turned around and come back. Thirteen kilometers, cold and wet, on top of a very long day of walking is not good. My thoughts were with them.

Eventually the rain subsided long enough for me to get back to the alburque across the street relatively dry. Who do I find there but Camille. She said she just stopped for a second and the rain convinced her to stay. But in the short time I was away, almost every available piece of floor-space was covered by sleeping bags. And there were some very wet people trying to dry out and get warm. Should be a cozy night.

Had dinner with Brad and Ben at the bar across the street. An OK meal but the most expensive this trip at 8€. Later I got a chance to talk to the hospitaleros, Carmine and Juan. Carmine had done the Camino with her mother and sisters, and was volunteering her for two weeks. She was from Malaga and said Carlos had been here a few days ago. Juan said they were celebrating tonight because their two-weeks were up. He said it was a lot of work and some nights bad. A few days ago, a few pilgrims got drunk and threw-up all over the bathroom. But most of the time, they said the pilgrims were very appreciative of their work. We ended up having a few small glasses of orujo, a home-brew liquor. Very powerful stuff!

9/29/02 Terradillos de los Templarios

27 km

Last night in the large Carrión refugios, things were pretty rowdy. But it was Saturday night after all. After lights out, a few wanted to continue some social drinking but the hospitalero kept catching them. Loud Spanish scolding could be heard throughout the alburgue.

I couldn't believe it, but there was somebody who snored louder than me, and they continued steadily throughout the night without any change. So, when I woke at 6am, it was difficult to go back to sleep. Ended up packed and out the door by 7am under a night sky full of stars.

My map sense always seems off kilter. Just leaving town in the dark, I took a wrong turn. If I hadn't seen other pilgrims heading off in the correct direction, who knows where I would have ended up. Stopped for a few minutes to watch the sunrise with Larissa. It was slow in coming but it did illuminate the road and the dozens of pilgrims headed our way.

Watching the sun come up behind more pilgrims

The first leg of our journey today was like being back home in the Midwest. The Camino was ruler-straight for seventeen kilometers through acres and acres of fields. Some thought it was boring but I felt at home. A little chilly starting out but it soon became hotter as the sun finally made it over the horizon.

Roads straight as in Kansas

As with all the pueblos in this part of Spain, Calzadilla de la Cueza surprised us when it suddenly appeared in a valley hidden below these plains. Stopped off for a sandwich but before I could leave, Larissa and Virginíe arrived and invited me back in for a coke.

It was noon and now it really felt like hot Kansas weather. With no shade, the Camino began to roast pilgrims as we made our way west. In Ledigos, I had to wait until Sunday mass was over to visit the church. Catiana from Finland was outside looking for the alburgue. Despite copious amounts of white sunblock, she was beet red with sunburn, especially on the back of her legs. I keep forgetting she just started in Burgos and hasn't developed that leather skin hikers love so much.

Walking down into Ledigos

The hospitalero seemed a little miffed that I only wanted a sello (a stamp for my credential) but wasn't going to stay there. I decided to keep going on because there's another private refugio another four kilometers away. When I finally arrived at the alburgue in Terradillos de los Templarios, I saw a few familiar faces, among them Claude and Jesse.

A little color

I almost forgot, we passed the halfway point between St Jean and Santiago. So, for a guy with a too heavy backpack, wearing sandals on the road every day, I haven't done too bad in only seventeen days (total: 394 km, avg: 23 km/day, high: 31 km).

Although the building's outside appearance might be deceptive, I'm at a very nice refugio. Only four beds to a room and they have a store and restaurant. You might expect prices in their little store to be higher since the pilgrims are sort of captive, but everything was as inexpensive as anywhere on the Camino

At dinner, everyone seemed to gravitate to tables of similar language. There was the French table, the Spanish table, the German table and I sat at the English table. Besides Camille, Jesse and Chris, the new guys with us are Brad and Ben, brothers from Wisconsin. Cool guys. A great dinner with very good dinner companions.

9/28/02 Carrión de los Condes

25 km

Another clear crisp morning but I decided to switch back to sandals. But instead of wearing socks and cinching the sandals up tight, I'm barefoot and the straps are kind of loose. It worked out perfectly. My feet feel great.

One beautiful highlight was walking along the Canal de Castella, especially with the early morning mist rising off the surface as the sun came up. We crossed a series of canal locks as we entered Frómista.

Fields as far as the eye can see over the canal

I feel like I'm back home in Kansas as I walk past huge grain silos near the train tracks. We arrived in town just as the doors of the Iglesia de San Martín were opening. This reduced-scale replica of the Jaca Cathedral was amazing because of the 100+ capitals and 315 corbels, all different but with remarkable detail. I wish I could have got a closer look at some of them.

Grain silos just like in Kansas

Iglesia de San Martín

Do ya' see the tractor behind Larissa and me?

At Revenga de Campos, I stopped for a lunch break and Larissa soon joined me. Like a lot of the solo pilgrims I'm meeting, I really enjoy the exchange of viewpoints and ideas from other parts of the world. As we walked, the heat increased but it didn't seem to dampen our conversation.

If possible, this landscape is even starker than before Burgos. It's farther and farther between trees or any green at all. But for all that, I'm constantly seeing farmers out in the fields preparing them for winter. Unlike Kansas, the land is more rolling than flat. But when the afternoon sun is cooking your scalp, I sure would appreciate a tree or two.

Tractors out in the fields

Had another reunion in town as Isaac met me at the door of the alburgue. He said that most everyone else is ahead and moving fast. Alfonzo is here too, along with Claude, Jessie and Chris. Got cleaned up and took a walk.

Inside the Monastery

Went to the Iglesia de Santiago because I wanted to look at the archvolts representing various medieval occupations. Unfortunately I couldn't go in because of a wedding. Took the long way to the Monasterio de San Zoilo where the attendant gave me the pilgrim discount even though I left my credential back at the refugio.

The highlight of the evening though was a simple picnic dinner at one of the city's fountains with Larissa and Virginíe who is from France. We all seem to be at that same place mentally and spiritually in our viewpoints about the incredible possibilities that travel like the Camino can give a person. And this despite differences in our age, background and culture. But as Larissa translated back and forth from French then English, it was as if we were of the same mind. A very fun exchange with lots of freedom to laugh at ourselves and the lives we are leading.

9/27/02 Boadilla del Camino

31 km

I tried to wait until close to sunrise to pack and leave. This is very different on the Camino and I am glad I spent some time here.

Amazing sunrise

Walked among stark wheat fields waiting for winter to begin. Still pretty cold as I started out. At least six kilometers to Hontanas, the next pueblo, and suddenly came upon it out of nowhere.

San Anton

While the pueblos I'm used to are built on a high point, Hontanas is located in a depression on the plain. The whole town is terraced as it descends. Even the church tower is lower than the surrounding terrain. I noticed several homes had even built over and across streets to utilise more space. The refugio was empty but I was glad to use their bathroom.

It's greener here in this low area. Came upon a German couple taking a snack break and they offered to share some apples. It just seemed like a great day to walk. Discovered a new refugio at the ruins of the Convent of San Anton. The hospitilero and his dachshund puppy were very friendly. He said they only opened in July, but most people were very pleased with the place.

The last couple of miles to Castrojeríz were on asphalt. But the view of the castle ruins above the city was worth the road-walk. Sort of got talked into buying a ticket to the museum inside the Iglesia de Santa María del Manzano. Nice museum but again, no cameras allowed. Got a bocadillo at the bar across the street and kept going.

Hot day of walkin'

Outside of town, the pilgrims had a long climb out of the valley and then another climb down, with more flat plains ahead. By now, it was getting very hot. What seemed like an oasis in this stark landscape was a tree-covered rest area with a spring. That's where I met Larissa again.

Larissa & Bernie

Larissa was now traveling with a large German shepherd named Bernie (on his 'dog' tag) who had been following her since Castrojeréz. Turns out he is a legend of the Camino. Everyday, he attaches himself to one particular pilgrim and walks with them for the whole day. Then, every day, the owner drives to either Boadilla or Frómista to pick him up. When we reached the alburgue, his owner was waiting for us at the bar. He said the dog had been doing this since he was a puppy. And if he didn't pick him up at the end of the day, Bernie would probably walk all the way to Santiago.

This privately owned alburgue near the church in Boadilla del Camino is a paradise. The grounds are green and expansive, and there is a bar and restaurant. The family who run it are great. During dinner, the owner asked all of us to come outside for something. He needed help unloading two new pilgrim statues. Even in the dark, they were stunning metal sculptures. Afterward, he invited us all back inside for a drink.

I met Irma, who is here visiting her daughter. They come from Victoria, Canada. After walking the Camino, Rebecca decided to come back to this place and volunteer. After a few days, the two of them were going to travel to Barcelona and the Southern Coast for a little sight-seeing. Irma is a nurse and we hit it off. I tried very hard to help her with a quick Spanish lesson but I'm afraid it was the 'blind leading the blind'.

9/26/02 Arroyo de San Bol

13 km

Since today was also another short day, I didn't really want to leave until at least sunrise. Had coffee and chatted a bit with everyone as they were leaving. Finally made it out the door and into another frigid morning. But it wasn't long before I was walking in the sunlight across miles of rolling hills. At one point found another stretch of the Camino with hundreds of little stone cairns.

Irish pilgrim cyclists get an early start

As I came over the top of a hill with a St James Cross, down below was another refugio, but different from any I had seen so far. Josué had thought this place was special on his last Camino, so I decided to check it out.

Nearing San Bol

The refugio is small, only sheltering twelve pilgrims downstairs, while the hospitillero has a place in the loft. There's a small kitchen and table. But the most interesting part is the round chapel which has a dome ceiling painted with stars. Outside is a spring that is said to have healing properties. Pilgrims have been washing their feet in its waters for hundreds of years. The water was ICE COLD!

Murals surrounded the courtyard

Met a few more pilgrims that just stopped her for a break. Larissa is from Canada. And who should stop by but Alfonso. I met him in Estella. He had been walking with a couple from Ireland because they were all having problems with their knees. He said he's doing great now and is moving fast to make up for lost time. Also saying hello was Tatiana from Barcelona who I met briefly in Belorado. A very nice woman. Just spent most of the afternoon catching some sun.

Tatiana [España]

Turns out there are only two of us tonight here at the refugio. While Udo, the German hospitillero, was a little distant during the day, he was more relaxed at dinner. He said he had been here at the refugio since April with only one day off in that whole time. He was closing the refugio in a few days and was looking forward to his holiday.

Later, when Udo went to town on errands, Jason and I sat in the chapel and talked. Above us, painted in almost exact detail on the inside of the dome was the night sky. With only one candle (or maybe because of it), we could see the painting all clearly.

Because the refugio has no electricity (and no outhouse ), and because the place just invited it, we ended up going to bed as the sun set.

9/25/02 Rabé de las Calzadas

12 km

My wonderful hosts - Alberto, Marisol & the girls

I met Cristina, Nati's cousin who is an English teacher in Burgos, for some breakfast and a tour of the cathedral. Although most of the outside restoration is done, a lot of the inside is still covered or closed to the public. So, I didn't really get to see what I wanted. But that was OK because I enjoyed talking to Cristina.

Sitting with a 'friend'

On my way out of town, whom do I see but Cristobol. Because several refugios were full, he ended up doing a thirty plus kilometer day to just outside Burgos last night. We caught up on all the gossip from the Camino, and he showed me some of his pictures on his digital movie camera. Simply amazing the color and detail he was able to capture. He was looking forward to a huge meal in town, so I went on ahead. But at least I know he is right behind me.

I wanted to get a stamp from the refugio in Burgos for my credential, so I dropped by in the center of the City Park. I almost jumped up for joy because Victoria was there. I hadn't seen her in at least a week. And right after that, up walks Mark. Now I know a lot of people are close. It will be good to see them all again soon on the Camino.

Kit 'Cristobol' [USA]

Victoria [Italy]

Finally made it out of town by 1pm. A windy, sunny day but you really got cold in the shade. At one point, I met a retired French doctor out on the Camino. She said she was retired and after her husband died several years ago, she has been doing the pilgrimage every year.

Kind of a lazy day of walking. But it was a bit difficult to enjoy the walk as opposed to cranking out the miles.

Iglesia de la Asunción with stork's nest

I ended up passing the refugio in Tardajos and walking a couple more kilometers. Met Claude, a Canadian girl, outside while we were writing in our journals. We really started talking when I found out she wanted to hike the Appalachian Trail. She's had an AT map pinned to her wall at home for the last couple of years.

Turns out I speak the best Spanish out of all the people here at the refugio. Now, there's a scary thought! There are thirteen of us here tonight: German (6), French (2), Ireland (2), Canada (1), Finland (1) and America (1). Because the kitchen is so small, we ended up eating dinner in shifts.

José and Jon Luc are filling in for the regular hospitillero who has been ill in the hospital. José only speaks Spanish, but Jon Luc is fluent in Spanish, English, French and a little German. He's a French doctor volunteering here for a couple of weeks after having done his Camino last year. The two of them made quite a pair. One of the German women and I helped with preparing dinner which was a simple meal.

I didn't mind being in the second shift for dinner because we were eating with José and Jon Luc. José kept looking to me when the others at the table didn't understand what he was saying. Jon Luc didn't like to drink alone, so we all shared his wine. Afterward, José gave us a little concert on the guitar. When a call came from the sick hospitillero from the hospital, you could hear him playing to the telephone while they both sang a duet. Touching. This turned out to be a good place for the night.

9/24/02 Burgos

26 km

Slept really well, despite the cold and the snoring. But even with an easy, but long walk into Burgos, it seemed as if people couldn't wait to get started. I left the refugio about 7am among the hordes of exiting pilgrims.

The big difference starting out this morning was that instead of leaving a city by a road, we were leaving the monastery through the forest. It was so dark, you couldn't see any route markers. And only the moonlight kept me from stepping into the mud puddles. I just followed the pilgrim in front of me, while others followed me. It was almost 8am before I could finally see a Camino "yellow arrow."

Early morning through the countryside

Today was even colder than yesterday and windier too. Stopped for a hot cocoa in Atapuerca and a bocadillo in Cardeñnela. Finally caught up to Angela to say goodbye. I'm sad that our 'little family' is breaking up. I know I'll meet more friends, but these people will always share a special place in my heart.

Sayin' goodbye to Angela

Another thought crossed my mind today. Because I'm always walking west, I miss the sunrise every day. Even if I keep looking over my shoulder, I still seem to miss it. Just got to do something about that.

The sun was out with few clouds but it was still cool. I'm glad I have my shoes instead of the sandals. Walked most of the way to Burgos with Bob, an American I'd met on the Internet through Camino. I was to stop at some friends' house but never found the street. Ended up at the cathedral.

The cathedral is an impressive display of wealth. Even now, the city has cleaned the surface of the entire complex so that it looks new. A small section still to be done behind the cathedral is almost black from pollution.

The cathedral was impressive

Made a phone call to Alberto, a friend of Nati and José that I met in August when we went to Atapuerca. Turns out I had passed their home as I entered the city. Said hello to a few pilgrims before heading back through Burgos.

Alberto and Marisol live in a beautiful new apartment in a newer part of town. After a quick shower that I desperately needed, and a great lunch, they took me on a driving tour of the Burgos. For a city of only 200,000, it is both beautiful and grand. While the old city is the normal narrow streets with no grass, the city has huge green-ways and parks. And this is the city of Kings and Queens. It shows in the various buildings dating from the Middle Ages. We went to the castillo ruins that are currently being restored above the city for an impressive view of Burgos below.

Alberto was born and raised near the main plaza. We ended up going to a few of his favorite bars from his college days for something to eat and drink. In one of those "It's a small world" moments, a guy walked past me in one bar who looked familiar. It was Mark whom I hadn't seen since Pamplona. He too had found some friends in Burgos. After spending the night in the city, they planned on returning to San Juan de Ortega to finish walking to Burgos (after getting a car ride ahead today). He said the Italians kept falling behind. It was good to see him again and with him so close behind me, I'm sure we'll see each other again. Still wonder what happened to Cristobol and Victoria.

9/23/02 San Juan de Oretega

26 km

With such a small place, I was surprised when everyone seemed to sleep late. I didn't leave till 7:40am and I was one of the first to head out the door. Nicolas runs a beautiful place, complete with breakfast.

Some say it is because we're higher in elevation, but I think we're colder here because winter is approaching. This morning was the first time I could see my breath as I walked. We continued our Camino through rolling hills of cultivated farmland, but you could feel we were going up.

At our highest point, we walked along a firebreak in thick forest. Rain always seemed to be threatening but even with raingear on, it never materialised. As my feet continued to protest the mileage, the Camino finally descended to the Monasterio de San Juan de Ortego. With the temperature falling, I'm very glad I carried all this cold weather clothing since the beginning, including the sleeping bag. Looks like it will be a very chilly night because the refugio doesn't have heat.

Bixen [España]

Chris [Brazil] & Jessie [Australia]

Leif [Denmark]

Carmin & Mila [España]

Isaac [España]

We're in a one-bar-town, so you'd think that after at least six months of constant pilgrim traffic, the guy that ran the bar would have been driven crazy. But no (or maybe yes depending on your point of view), even with mobs of pilgrims asking for menus and his trying to find somewhere for everyone to sit, he was happy, almost playful with all the customers. Even the one's who didn't speak Spanish. And the food was good and cheap too.

But before we sat down for dinner, one of the bartenders told us we should go to the church. Every year, on the spring and fall equinox, the setting sun will flash light on a particular pillar carved with the story of the Virgin Mary's Ascension. He said that yesterday was the equinox but it might still be possible to see it tonight. So off we went.

Because the church only uses natural light (except during service), it was hard to find the right pillar in the darkness. The other thing working against us was the sky was covered with clouds. As people began to congregate around the pillar, occasionally some light would illuminate the pillar enough to appreciate the fine detail of the carving.

Then it seemed as if the cloud cover shut off the lights. 5, 10, 15 minutes went by with no sunlight, so people began to give up and leave. But not me! I kept my neck craned up so I wouldn't miss it, even if it was only a second. Wow, it was as if someone hit the spotlight, at the exact center of the carving of the Virgin Mary. Amazing, simply dazzling. The rest of the church lay in darkness as this particular piece was illuminated. Words simply cannot describe.

Let there be LIGHT!

9/22/02 Belorado

22 km

It still amazes me at how many people are packed and gone before the lights come on at 7am. I mean Angela and I felt we were late leaving at 7:15.

Another day of cool winds and rain clouds always threatening. That helped me speed my way down the Camino. In Gañon, it seemed everyone stopped at an enterprising tobacconist who sold sandwiches and coffee out front. The refugio here is in the bell tower of the church. Very cool.

José & Pedro [España]

We walked through even larger farm fields in these rolling hills. Saw a crew harvesting potatoes and another farmer racking hay. Lots of John Deere tractors around here. We were now entering Castille & Leon, the province where Burgos is the capital.

The refugio in Belorado is in the building next to the Iglesia de Santa Maria. The kind hospitalero from Canada seemed to have his hands full with the sudden arrival of so many pilgrims. I had nothing against the place, I can sleep anywhere, but Bixen and a few other Spaniards were heading to the private alburgue a little closer to the main plaza.

Beautiful baptismal font

For $7, we found a palace. It only has room for twenty, with two showers and bathrooms, full kitchen, and a patio complete with a fountain. It was pure decadence for a pilgrim. Had a good lunch with Carlos and Carmine at a restaurant on the plaza. Once we finished, Carmine was overjoyed by a surprise visit from her husband.

Rained off and on again all afternoon, but that didn't seem to dampen anyone's spirit. Later we all helped prepare a communal dinner. Because Mila did most of the cooking, I volunteered to give her a massage. Soon, everyone wanted one. The hospitalero, Nicolas, was very interested in my techniques. He wants to study massage during the off season, then offer it to his patrons in the alburgue. He just opened in April and has filled up with the full twenty pilgrims every night since.

Dinners always seem to go on forever here in Spain. They had to twist my arm to go out for a nightcap of pacharan. Later, when we returned, Nicolas want to thank me for the massage lesson with a glass of home-brew pacharan. A little less sweet with a little more kick to it than the store-bought kind. Wow!

Bixen, Mila, José, Carmin, Pedro, Angela, & Carlos eating again!

9/21/02 St Domingo de la Cazada

22 km

Didn't sleep so well last night. Spent about an hour in the bathroom, but when nothing happened, I decided to go back to bed. Slept soundly for the rest of the night.

So far, this has been one of the few refugios that asked for donations but did not require that you pay to spend the night. And they even served breakfast. I followed Angela out the door around 7am. Couldn't see any stars because of the clouds. And we could barely follow the pilgrims ahead because it was so dark.

Cut wheat fields remind me of home back in Kansas

As the sun came up behind us, we walked through farm fields all around. It was cool and the clouds seemed to keep at bay, nearer the mountaintops. All day, we walked gravel farm roads. Sometimes I was with Angela, sometimes with Paco, but mostly I walked alone. But always I could see pilgrims ahead.

When I finally topped the last hill, I couldn't believe we had already reached Santo Domingo. Ah, but looks could be deceiving. It took at least another hour to enter the city.

This whole trip has seemed so luxurious because of these wonderful refugios. In Santo Domingo, the hospitalero was a Frenchman. And again we didn't have to pay but they appreciated any donations.

Refugio beds line the wall under a Camino road map

I helped Josué cook pasta for the first time. Seems college students in Spain don't know about Ramen Noodles. When Paco stopped by, we asked him to join us and Marina. Afterward, we headed to the cathedral and museum.

This has been the first church that charged admission (except during mass), even to pilgrims. But this 12th century church is impressive. This was also the first church that didn't allow cameras. The strangest thing about the inside the church was the chicken coop.

Cathedral's baroque tower (1762)

The stone coop over the door (1460) is a reminder of the miracle of the "hanged innocent" in which a young pilgrim was wrongly hanged. But when his parents returned from Santiago, they found him still alive hanging by the noose. They ran to a city official to ask for his release, but the man stated that they boy was as alive as the roasting chickens sitting on his dinner plate. That's when the birds jumped up, feathers returned and they flew away. The chickens in the coop now are said to be descendants of the same two chickens.

We went back to the refugio just to hang out but we were stuck inside because of the frequent rain showers. Met Jesse, an Australian who has been working in Scotland for the last couple of years. But is now finally making her way back home. She met Chris from Brazil in Edinburgh and they both decided to do the Camino together. Also sharing a glass of wine with us was Isaac, a young guy with long red hair from Barcelona.

Because it was Saturday night, the evening service at the church was standing room only. We were disappointed there wasn't any choir because we had heard there might be some Gregorian chants. We got back to the refugio before 9pm but already found some people fast asleep in bed.