October 13, 2002

10/13/02 Melide

26 km

Believe it or not, yesterday was a national holiday because Spain changed the course of world history by paying an Italian to sail west and see if he fell off the edge of the earth.

Last night I ended up sleeping in the rec-room so I wouldn't wake people up with my coughing. Not a bad sleep because I didn't have to worry about anyone but me. I kept taking fluids and Christopher gave me some of his homemade homeopathy cough medicine.

This morning was a lazy day. I don't think anyone in my room got out of bed before 9am, some sort of record for an alburgue. After some tea and sweet bread, as we were getting ready to leave, other pilgrims began arriving from the previous refugios. Saw Claude and her mom. And who should walk up but Larissa. Every time I think she's ahead of me, she seems to catch me from behind. She had word that Isaac was close behind but Gelko wasn't close at all.

Max up ahead walking in the rain and mist

As our 'house mother' Maria Paz sent us merrily on our way, it began to fog and mist. Not enough to use the umbrella, but enough to get wet without some sort of raingear. Another oddity today was having to move aside to let a group of ATV riders pass. I could tell they were pilgrims by the conch shells attached to their vehicles. Sad.

Josué walking with Rocio

As the day and kilometers went by, it got wetter and wetter. The only consolation is that the Camino here is a pretty nice surface, usually a wide path of crushed limestone. Sometimes when it crosses a road, we even get stone paving blocks for that fancy crosswalk.

Not really feeling great and I don't really like these large refugios in the bigger cities. After an ice cold shower, we all headed to Pulperia Ezequiel for a traditional Galician meal of octopus. It's boiled in a big tub and served on wooden platters. I just wish I was feeling better to really judge it's taste.

I was amazed to find a pharmacy open late on a Sunday night. Josué went with me to see if they could give me anything for this cough.

Wonderful color found even on this gloomy day