October 11, 2002

10/11/02 Barbadelo

33 km

A very cold morning today. Even at 11am, I could see my breath as I walked. I chose a route towards the monastery at Samos that was longer but avoided a lot of highway.

A very pleasant walk none the less as I left Triacastela. About two kilometers from town, there was huge waterfall. I found a path that made its way to the base. So much of Galicia reminds me of the Northwest. I followed the road most of the way to Samos but there was very little traffic.

A hidden waterfall

If it wasn't for the occasional plastic chair or new car, I would have though I had traveled back in time. Today, a few villages clearly were built without cars or even horse-drawn carts in mind.

This is a land where many a Celt relocated probably because it seemed the same as Ireland; rocky, wet and hilly. They believe in witches and sprites here and I thought I heard a few. My path led me down heavily covered trees and stone fences with moss as I followed a river downstream almost all day.

Monastery in Samos

I didn't really like the rain and mist but it could have been worse. At one point I had a fork in the path not mentioned in the guidebook. I took the dirt road and ended up shaving some mileage off my day. Found myself popping out of an alley in a small village, just as a few pilgrims were coming down the 'road' route.

In Sarria, I went looking for some hot food to eat when I ran into Cesar and Sonia again. They are such a neat couple. Sonia thinks Cesar is very tired of walking alone, and she really wants to walk the Camino again. So, tomorrow, whether it's 2 or 20 kilometers, she's back on the road. I came upon Isaac and we decided to keep going despite the rain.

We are at a small refugio but still way behind our friends. Gelko showed up much earlier than I expected. We all talked about our desire to finish the Camino among our perigrino 'family'.

Follow the yellow arrows

Had a great dinner at La Casa de Carmen. Isaac is quickly improving his English while I work on my Spanish. Joining us were Gelko and Alfonso. Too much food and way too much wine, but the cheese cake 'tart de queso' was divine.