October 10, 2002

10/10/02 Triascastela

20 km

It was a very cold morning outside the sleeping bag. I think everyone would have been happier if there had been some snow outside like a few mornings ago. As it was, it looked like a miserable day to be on the road.

Because the fog was so thick, Larissa and I waited until it was light before leaving the refugio. The freezing wind seemed to cut right through my clothes. But 'Thank God!' it wasn't raining. After stopping for some hot cocoa in Alto de Poio, we kept descending the mountains, putting more distance between us and the clouds.

Santiago fighting the wind

The sun was more elusive this morning but it poked through on occasion. The Camino went through many more small pueblos, barely bigger than large family farms. Once, I saw a farmer wife wearing wooden shoes to protect her feet from the mud and manure. Twice I had to let a farmer drive his cattle down the main street, usually the only street. The dogs seem to be bigger here but always chained up. With the cooler weather, they seemed so cold and miserable.

The closer I got to Triacastela, the more the sun came out. The greens of the trees, plants and moss seemed to come alive with the sunlight. Not a bad day of walking because it was all generally downhill. But I also hope it's warmer too.

Talking with Larissa today, I realize that I know a lot of things intellectually, some quite extensively, but I don't put them into practice. In terms of spirituality, eastern medicine and philosophy, I can 'talk the talk', but I don't 'walk the walk.' If I believe, I should be showing others by my example instead of only participating in discussions about these topics.

Walkin' down a country lane

Josué, Max and Larissa continued on after stopping here for a break. And while I was at the store, Benedetta and Gianluigi came through too. I am a little sad to be separated from them this close to Santiago. But if it's meant to be, I'll see them again.

Isaac and Gelko are here tonight. And I spent a lot of time with Sonia and Cesar.