September 25, 2002

9/25/02 Rabé de las Calzadas

12 km

My wonderful hosts - Alberto, Marisol & the girls

I met Cristina, Nati's cousin who is an English teacher in Burgos, for some breakfast and a tour of the cathedral. Although most of the outside restoration is done, a lot of the inside is still covered or closed to the public. So, I didn't really get to see what I wanted. But that was OK because I enjoyed talking to Cristina.

Sitting with a 'friend'

On my way out of town, whom do I see but Cristobol. Because several refugios were full, he ended up doing a thirty plus kilometer day to just outside Burgos last night. We caught up on all the gossip from the Camino, and he showed me some of his pictures on his digital movie camera. Simply amazing the color and detail he was able to capture. He was looking forward to a huge meal in town, so I went on ahead. But at least I know he is right behind me.

I wanted to get a stamp from the refugio in Burgos for my credential, so I dropped by in the center of the City Park. I almost jumped up for joy because Victoria was there. I hadn't seen her in at least a week. And right after that, up walks Mark. Now I know a lot of people are close. It will be good to see them all again soon on the Camino.

Kit 'Cristobol' [USA]

Victoria [Italy]

Finally made it out of town by 1pm. A windy, sunny day but you really got cold in the shade. At one point, I met a retired French doctor out on the Camino. She said she was retired and after her husband died several years ago, she has been doing the pilgrimage every year.

Kind of a lazy day of walking. But it was a bit difficult to enjoy the walk as opposed to cranking out the miles.

Iglesia de la Asunción with stork's nest

I ended up passing the refugio in Tardajos and walking a couple more kilometers. Met Claude, a Canadian girl, outside while we were writing in our journals. We really started talking when I found out she wanted to hike the Appalachian Trail. She's had an AT map pinned to her wall at home for the last couple of years.

Turns out I speak the best Spanish out of all the people here at the refugio. Now, there's a scary thought! There are thirteen of us here tonight: German (6), French (2), Ireland (2), Canada (1), Finland (1) and America (1). Because the kitchen is so small, we ended up eating dinner in shifts.

José and Jon Luc are filling in for the regular hospitillero who has been ill in the hospital. José only speaks Spanish, but Jon Luc is fluent in Spanish, English, French and a little German. He's a French doctor volunteering here for a couple of weeks after having done his Camino last year. The two of them made quite a pair. One of the German women and I helped with preparing dinner which was a simple meal.

I didn't mind being in the second shift for dinner because we were eating with José and Jon Luc. José kept looking to me when the others at the table didn't understand what he was saying. Jon Luc didn't like to drink alone, so we all shared his wine. Afterward, José gave us a little concert on the guitar. When a call came from the sick hospitillero from the hospital, you could hear him playing to the telephone while they both sang a duet. Touching. This turned out to be a good place for the night.