6/30/01 Jackson, MT

77.4 miles

Had a few beers last night at the Blue Anchor Bar with Allen and Maggie. They are such nice people. They are a refreshing change for this lonely cyclist. Kind of gives me some much needed confidence for the next few weeks after Missoula.

The mosquitoes do seem to be getting worse the farther north we go. They chased us into our tents early after dinner and, even with the cooler temps this morning, I was still being attacked.

Even though the road was a steady incline, I felt good on the road. Took a break at Beaverhead Rock, named by Lewis & Clark on their expedition. After that, I think I spent as much time talking to other cyclists as I did riding.

Finally met the east-bound Adventure Cycling group, one of which is Jim Fogle, a friend of mine from Kansas City. They seemed like a good group, especially their group leader. Then it was Lenny and Lorraine, headed for Boston, I think. Another Jim was having a great time, having just retired last year. Ed is English, and this is his first trip to the States. Also camped with us tonight are two younger guys, John and Chris. I think my future days will be much the same for the next couple of weeks.

Stopped in Dillon for a late breakfast sandwich, and started talking to Randy. He drives a truck for Safeway, but liked the idea of taking a leave of absence to do some biking. Grabbed some take-out lunch to eat later before heading out of town. It was slow climbing at first through the farmed plain. I just didn't seem to be going anywhere. I think it might have been the heat. The route took us from 5,000 feet in Dillon, over Badger Pass (6,760 feet), then Big Hole Pass (7,360 feet). The fourteen miles from town took me over 2 hours. I was glad to take a break when I reached the top. Not much shade, so I had lunch on a rock outcropping.

These mountain valleys here in Montana are breathtaking. You can see for miles, but always surrounding you are mountain peaks, most with snow still on them. I think Nancy would have liked it here. It seems as if there are as many dogs and horses here as people.

By the time I finally reached the second pass, I was almost out of water and pretty tired. Even though it was a higher pass, the downhill on the other side was disappointing. Came into Jackson about 6 P.M., a late arrival for me.

Got a tent spot at the Jackson Hot Springs Lodge, while waiting for Allen and Maggie to get here. Decided against eating in the lodge because nothing was cheaper than $15, and the only other café was closed today because it was "Abigail's birthday." Still, it was hard to cook and eat with all these mosquitoes.

Trying to get to sleep, but a lot of people are setting off fireworks. Guess we have to put up with that this week. And here poor Maggie wanted to get to bed early.

6/29/01 Twin Bridges, MT

45.5 miles

What's he smiling at?

Had a bit of a late start this morning. Using an adapter on my tire inner tubes, I tried to get a little more air pressure using the air hose at the gas station. I think it helped a little bit.

Then stopped by the high school to talk to some of the CycleAmerica group as they were getting ready to head out in the opposite direction.

The road out of town was uphill for ten miles to a pass. It was slow going, but not that difficult. Then came the 3-mile screaming descent. At 48 MPH, I decided on the side of caution and applied the brakes to slow down.

Yee Haa! Downhill!!!!

At the bottom was Virginia City, the only city listed in its entirety on the National Register of Historic Places. Many of the buildings are original, dating back to 1860. Some of the shops appear as if someone just locked the door and left, leaving behind shelves full of goods. Truly amazing when you see it.

After Allen, Maggie, and I had breakfast at the Madison Hotel, we all split up to wander about town. Just down the road is the ghost town of Nevada City. The next town of Laurin had a beautiful stone church dating back to 1901. Then, along the road came Robbers Roost. Pete's Tavern had a whorehouse upstairs and was infamous because of its less than honest clientele.

The infamous Robbers Roost

After all the sight seeing, the sun was making it a bit hot. Even though it seemed like I just ate, I had lunch at the "Prospector's Drive-In" in Sheridan. Great, large, cheap soft-serve ice cream cones! After dropping some mail off at the post office, I see Allen and Maggie's bike in front of the Sheridan Bakery & Café. As they finished their lunch, we discussed our options for the day.

Because it was almost 3 P.M., it seemed a stretch to ride another 38 miles to Dillon. Plus, because it's such a large city (population 4,000), the only camping is several miles off route. So it looks like a short day today, and possibly a long one tomorrow to Jackson.

I've decided to bike with these guys while I have the chance (they're headed north at Missoula). They are fun people and after so long alone on the road, I enjoy the company.

The valley here is pretty wide, but you can still see mountains on all sides. We're camped at the county fairgrounds. Still no sign of my friend, Jim, and the Adventure Cycling group headed east.

Well, gotta go. Meeting Allen and Maggie for a beer in a pub.

Camping with Alan and Maggie

6/28/01 Ennis, MT

74.8 miles

Richard, my roommate, turned out to be a pretty nice guy. We chatted a bit before going to sleep. I had worried that my getting up early would disturb him, but it turned out he was getting up even earlier to catch a ride to Seattle.

I felt better after a good night's sleep. Got packed and headed down the street as the town slept on. All except the baker. Had a wonderful fresh cinnamon roll at "Jocee's Baking Company" before leaving town.

The term "stealth camping" refers to just finding a spot off in the woods to camp where no one will see you. Usually, this means without the land owner's permission. Before I had begun this trip, I thought I'd be doing more of this type of camping. And I might have if I were with someone. But I'm already too isolated on this trip. So, the campgrounds are my way of getting some meaningful social interaction. But that didn't stop me from seeing some good spots to stealth camp outside of West Yellowstone.

The ride along Hebgen Lake generally followed the beautiful shoreline, with the mountains looming overhead. At the "Kirkwood Store" Craig told me that he's seen a lot fewer cyclists this year than last. When I asked about the lake, he told me it's a favorite for ice fishermen in the winter, along with snowmobiling.

Earthquake Lake has a very different story. On August 17, 1959, at almost midnight, an earthquake hit the area, measuring 7.5 (the 4th strongest quake measured to that date). The result was a landslide of 80 million tons of rock. An entire face of the mountain crashed down into the Madison River Canyon. Twenty-eight people died, most in the campground that was partially buried. The natural dam created by the landslide made Earthquake Lake. You can still see where the landslide occurred.

You can see where the mountain just slide off

As I continued to follow the Madison River downstream, I began to feel those tailwinds. After so many days and weeks fighting the wind, it was pure joy to fly down the road. Soon I met John and Bryer, a New Zealand couple headed east. And then I ran into a women's tour group.

Luna Tours is based in Montana and emphasizes "outdoor adventures for women." But as a fellow cyclist, I was welcome to a few Powerbars and Gatorade. They were on a supported ride "in our backyard," one of the leaders said. The ladies seemed very interested in my ride. A thought came to me that I should get a company like Luna Tours to work with TWU to organize an annual fund-raising ride, but with the students participating this time.

As the day progressed, so did my tailwind increase. I found myself even flying up the uphills. I put the bike into my big charm ring and reveled at the speeds I was attaining on this relatively flat road.

I probably saw more fishermen today than I've seen altogether this entire trip. Besides fly fishing with waders, I saw a lot of McKenzie drift boats, a kind of flatboat with the ends upturned. Turns out that the Madison River here is the mecca of fly fishermen.

Gone fishin'

I treated myself to lunch at the Chuckwagon Café in Cameron. It was part of one building housing the Blue Moon Saloon, a café, a store, and the post office. And gambling is legal in Montana, as evident with the slot machines I saw in the bar.

Saw the Luna ladies outside of "Cowboy Heaven", an ice cream and espresso shop in Ennis. "You gotta try it!" one woman said. So I exchanged pleasant small-talk with the owner, Kelly Kivlin, as I drank my root beer float.

Ennis reminds me a lot of Dubois, Wyoming. Only here, the western motif is enhanced with the addition of fishing. At the entrance to town is a steel sculpture of a fly fisherman catching a big one. And the tourists the fishing brings in are big business. The several blocks of downtown shops were doing brisk business.

Alan and Maggie showed up after doing a 90-mile day. "How could you not keep going with that tailwind!" Alan beamed. I'm happy to see them again. We're camped at the "Campers Corner," not far from downtown. Also in town is a Cycle America group of about 80 riders staying at the high school. They're heading east, also a charity ride.

Besides talking with Alan and Maggie, I met Rich and Jill, who are in an RV in our campground. Jill says they've done a short bike trip, but would like to get into it more. Rich was kind enough to drop a few beers by our tents. Between the two of them, they brought four bikes. Right now they're here for the fishing, but we talked about options for more biking.

Actually, a very fine day. Tomorrow, it's on through Virginia City, the only town on the National Register of Historic Places, and maybe on to Dillon.

6/27/01 West Yellowstone, MT

17.9 miles

Went to sleep last night to the sound of rain, but I slept well. Not many were up in the campground when I packed up to leave.

The ride out of the park was beautiful and peaceful, with hardly a car or RV to be seen. The Madison River was this incredible gun-metal blue. Still, you can see evidence of the '88 fire damage everywhere. A lot of areas, the forest floor is blanketed by new saplings, most just waist high. But some places, the damage might be permanent. Only time will tell if the park will return to its previous splendor.

Leaving the park, with the sun just rising

Arrived in West Yellowstone, Montana early, but found "Free Heel & Wheel" open for business. Besides being a bike shop (ski shop in winter), it's also a coffee shop. Had a good chat with Brenda. A friend of hers, Matt, stopped by. "I did the TransAm nine years ago and this is where I ran out of money," he said, "and I've been here ever since."

At the library, I met with Liz Kearney to prepare for my talk. As part of their "Reading Road Trip, USA 2001" summer reading program, the kids are following several cross-country cyclists. I probably spoke to a dozen kids about my trip, both the good and the bad, and about my cousin, Nancy's, memorial scholarship fund. They had very good questions, and a couple even asked if they could come, too.

The kids seemed pretty interested in the trip so far

But this little guy was more interested in the trailer

I met a few more cyclists today, all going east. I had breakfast with Bob (from California) who is seventy. Met George as I was leaving the park. A few more guys showed up, waiting for a couple of girls they'd been riding with. Sounds like I might get a tailwind on the route tomorrow.

I'm feeling out of sorts today. While I had fun talking to the kids, other stuff hasn't gone well. I'm at the Madison Hotel (which has hostel bunks, too). I just feel so separated from everyone and everything in this tourist town. I'm spending way too much money and taking poorly planned short days. I really need to refocus.

I did have some other highlights, though. Saw a few bison real close. They're doing an article about my ride in the UMKC Alumni News. The head of Institutional Development at TWU will be in Missoula next week and will give me a place to stay. And TWU Public Relations have asked if I would agree to interviews. Cool! So, I'll try and relax tonight and tackle the world tomorrow.

6/26/01 Madison Junction Camp

46.2 miles

Sat around the campfire, having a beer with the guys camped across from me till late. They said to call them in Denver when I was biking though Colorado, and they could at least offer a place to sleep.

Actually got a later start than my normal. The ride was pretty quiet as I had to cross the Continental Divide twice. After that, it was generally downhill. One thing I can't figure out is all the complaints about the lack of a shoulder through the park. Compared to "no" shoulder in Virginia and Kentucky, I have a ton of room on the side of the road.

Coming down the road, I could see buildings and thought it might be the Old Faithful Lodge. What I didn't realize was how commercialized it would be. All surrounding this one geyser - lodge, inn, visitor center, store, grill, ranger station, gift shop, etc. You get the picture. And just like the hundreds of people around me, I sat on the benches waiting for the famous eruption. And it didn't disappoint. Kind of cool, actually.

My whole day was spent wandering this geothermal amusement park. Words like geyser, hot springs, fumaroles, and mudpots are now part of my vocabulary. I saw so many "new" things that it's difficult to remember all the names like Castle Geyser, Grotto Geyser, Morning Glory Pool, Sunset Lake, Emerald Pool, Mustard Spring, Sapphire Pool, and Fountain Paint Pot. Even with all the people, the sights--and even sounds--couldn't be diminished. Simply amazing!

Nature's canvas

And if all that wasn't enough, today the bike and trailer got a lot of attention. I met a family from Eugene, Oregon, who told me to call them when I'm in town. Sat next to a family from France while waiting for Old Faithful to erupt. Another family heard me talking and gave a donation. Met a group cycling a supported loop through Yellowstone and the Tetons. Really had a good time talking with people.

Old Faithful

And, that's not all! I'm here at Madison Junction Campground with a few other cross-country cyclists. Christina is from Germany and has been cycling east from New Zealand, Los Angeles, and coming through all the national parks in the southwest. I have spent most of the evening talking with Maggie and Allen Pendleton, who have cycled all over the world on their tandem. I might even see them more between here and Missoula.

A funny thing happened when I registered for my hiker/biker campsite. Betty asked, "Are you the guy giving the talk at the library tomorrow?" When I said yes, she requested a quick preview of what I was going to say, because she couldn't be there because of work. How about that - I'm a celebrity!

6/25/01 Grant's Village Campground

42.8 miles

The thunderstorm last night was more light show and rain than fury and destruction. But, because I'm camping among the trees, things are still cool and damp. Had breakfast with the motorcycle guys before getting back on the road.

Film is definitely a premium here. Every break in trees gave another spectacular view of the mountains and the lake. I hadn't gone very far when I spotted two cyclists coming the other way.

Brenda and Allen Henderson are farmers from Iowa, who biked from home to do the Great Divide. They used a tandem on the TransAm and then switched to mountain bikes. They are the first GDR riders I've met this year. As you can imagine, I had a ton of questions about their trip so far. After our long discussion, I'll be excited to get together with them after the trip (to compare war stories).

Brenda and Allan

Coming out of Grand Teton National Park, you could see evidence of the forest fires of '88. Barren hills with dead tree trunks and a few saplings trying to grow. Took a lunch break at Flagg Ranch before entering Yellowstone National Park.

The devastation from the 1998 fire

Traffic wasn't that bad and there was a small shoulder along the road. I took pictures as I rode alongside the Lewis River. Passed the large Lewis Lake and was a bit surprised when I reached the pass before the campground. Not any wildlife today, but mosquitoes.

As I checked in at the Grant's Village Campground, they told me it had only just been opened because of recent grizzly bear activity. Even after dinner, the rangers had a sighting of one of the bears headed our direction. Before they could ask people to evacuate, the grizzly started moving away from the campground. Fun and excitement.

It made a wonderful sound!

At the registration center, I met Dallas Cox, an acupuncturist from Denver. Like me, he had given up an engineering job to pursue more meaningful work. I actually saw him, his wife, and two small children at the entrance to Grand Teton Park as their car was being towed toward Jackson. "Alternator trouble," he said. We talked a bit about health care and our roles, while his wife was getting them a campsite.

By dinner time, I'm still the only cyclist in camp. So I decide to get something to eat at the "Village Grill." The staff was great as I had AYCE soup and salad. Did manage to get a hold of Liz, the librarian in West Yellowstone, Montana. I'm to talk to the kids about my trip, which they've been following. Liz seemed full of questions, but said, "I can hear all your answers when you get here."

The camp must be getting full, because they're putting people in the group-only campsites near me. I talked with three guys tenting across from me about their road trip all over the west, including Canada.

Let's see - other items of interest here in Grant's Village: The visitor center has a pretty good exhibit on the fire of 1988, which almost consumed one-third of the park. Yellowstone Lake is huge! And the mosquitoes here are overwhelming.

6/24/01 Colter Bay, WY

78.4 miles

Kind of an odd day, but everything worked out OK. The plan was for an easy 50-mile day, with the only hurdle getting over Togwatee Pass (at the 30-mile mark). One thing I wasn't happy with was the wind. Usually, it's pretty calm until about 10 A.M., then it builds up all day, then quiet again at night. Well, not today. Had a slight headwind as I left Dubois.

The route was a steady uphill almost the whole way to the pass. Traffic was pretty light this Sunday morning. I think the wind was just trying to annoy me; not like yesterday.

Close to noon, almost at the pass, I meet Karl, who, with a buddy, is biking the Great Parks Route south. When he found out what I was doing, he said, "I always try to meet one eccentric every day!"

At the spot where I thought the pass was, a picnic table sign looked inviting. Turned out to be a small mountain lake. What a sight, with someone fishing on the lake and the mountains in the background. Unlike Hoosier Pass, the only reason I knew I was over the pass was the sign that said, "STEEP GRADE - 6% NEXT 17 MILES." Now that is an answer to a cyclist's prayers.

Magnificent lake at the top of Hoosier Pass

But that pesky headwind just wouldn't go away, spoiling the flight downhill. Then, around a bend in the road, there they were - the Tetons! Even at a distance, they are impressive. Nothing like the mountains I've seen anywhere. For the rest of my downhill, they hovered over me.

Hatchet Campground was a disappointment -- primitive camping for $10. I'd heard cyclists could camp behind the ranger station nearby, but no one was there because it was Sunday. Talked to the folks at the Hatchet Inn, who suggested camping along the old logging road that goes behind their property. After checking it out, I decided to keep going. But I thought I had directions from the staff to a new campground 8 miles away.

The Grand Tetons

The wind was really blowing now, but I didn't pay it any attention. They said I had a climb ahead, but it never materialized. About four miles from the Hatchet Grill, I met Steve Gebert and his mom, Lorraine, on a tandem pulling a trailer. Not to give Lorraine's age away, but she gets the senior discount. They were a wealth of information about a few churches to approach for a place to stay. And, believe it or not, they know Bubba, the St. Louis policeman I met on the road in Kentucky. They tell me he's only a few days behind me. I knew he'd catch me sooner or later.

Said my good-byes and entered the Grand Teton National Park. Lots of traffic, but also lots of places to take pictures, with every view a postcard. With my admission to the park, I also got a map, which showed that the campground the Hatchet staff had recommended was 4 to 5 miles off route. Took a second to decide, and then headed for the next campground on my route.

Colter Bay seems like the Disney world of campgrounds when compared to others I've been to. So many people and vehicles, but this isn't even the busy part of the summer. The nice thing is that they reserve ten tent sites for hikers and bikers. And, true to form, I'm the only cyclist here.

Jackson Lake from Colter Bay

Went down to Jackson Lake to get a better view of the mountains. It's almost as if the lake kept us mere humans away from the glacier-covered spires where gods reside. The Tetons must be where the phrase "purple mountains majesty" came from.

Back at camp, I met some buddies crossing the country on motorcycles. Patrick drove from Maryland, meeting his two friends from California, Duff and Flip, in Arizona. Patrick checked his odometer and we almost had the exact same mileage. Had a good time talking about our two-wheeled adventures.

Sheldon is the hiker camping nearby. He flew out to Wyoming and has been hitch hiking all over, camping and fishing along the way. He's from Pennsylvania and we talked about how laid back people are out here.

As it grew dark, you could see the clouds move in. As I write this, a thunderstorm is raging outside. I can't remember when my last rain was. Maybe Ordway, Colorado? With two long days in a row, I hope to keep tomorrow to 40 miles. We'll see if the rain has any effect on those plans.

6/23/01 Debois, WY

78.3 miles

I'm exhausted. Today the winds of Wyoming and I, a mere mortal, did battle for 10 hours. Although there never was a question of who was stronger, the wind gods made sure I paid the price for every mile. And paid dearly I did.

The day started out innocent enough. I was able to get some day-old cinnamon rolls from the bakery for 75 cents. Then I bought some soup to add to my Ramen noodles. Total cost for dinner - about $1. Not bad for someone who has let his budget take on a life of its own.

Headed out of town towards the Wind River Indian Reservation. Along the way I watched some cowboys round up a herd for something. Already the morning was heating up, so I'm glad I got my usual early start.

Now this is 'cowboy' country!

Some hills as I went through Fort Washakie and after, but nothing I wasn't expecting. Then, about the 20-mile mark, I could feel the winds pick up. You guessed it, a cross headwind. But, hey, I'm an optimist. I mean, I've 3,400 miles under my belt. What's a little wind?

There was actually a nice rest stop between the two towns (which are 30 miles apart). While taking a break, I met the Grant-Peranowski family, Jen and Dale and their two girls, Kara and Lauren. They were headed east from Oregon to Vermont, their home, on tandems, pulling trailers like mine. We compared notes on what's ahead and wished each other well. While we were talking, a pair of girls heading east passed the rest stop. Later, I also met Khander, also heading east.

Dale and his daughter Lauren

By the time I reached Crowheart, the wind was relentless. When I talked with a couple of cowboys about the possibility of their hats being blown away, one said, "I grew up here and this is a mild wind, nothin' really." All I know is that wind was kicking my butt.

A lot of irrigation going on in the Wind River valley, with huge ridges and buttes on either side. This must be horse country, because that's all I saw in every pasture. Despite the wind, the scenery was great when you added the horses, the trees along the river, the red cliffs, and the snow-capped peaks.

Now, I know I've claimed other days as being the "windiest," but today I have some objective data: 1) Several times the wind brought me to a complete standstill, even though I was going downhill. 2) Bike parts, such as my fenders, sounded as if the wind was tearing them apart. And, 3) a couple of times wind gusts tried in vain to blow off my helmet (sometimes with head attached). Add to all of this the fact that I followed the river "upstream" the entire way, and you might get a little bit of an idea how exhausted I was becoming.

To top it off, as I approached Debois, a thunderstorm blew in. I saw the lightning, but my only thought was to get to town so I could stop. On some of the last few hills I had to stop every 100 feet or so. I just couldn't keep pedaling.

Even though I only got a few sprinkles, you could tell the town got a lot more, because the pavement was still wet. The first thing I spotted in town was "Bob's Bike Corral." Bob is the great grandson of Mr. Schwinn, who started his business in 1875. And you guessed it. Bob sells Schwinns.

After talking a bit about my trip and his shop, I asked Bob for a few recommendations for dinner before I headed over to the "Circle Up Campground." You see, I was just too exhausted to do much of anything, least of all cook.

After checking in and forcing myself to put up the tent now instead of later, I could barely walk, I was so weak. As I headed toward the showers, another camper and I got to talking. Jim had battled leukemia and now they were doing things that they would have otherwise left till retirement age. He seemed glad that I had a similar attitude.

After a wonderful warm shower, I put one foot in front of the other to get to the Cowboy Café. Even though the special of the day was Wild Boar Chops, I was surprised to hear the staff speaking French. Severine Murdock opened the place 8 years ago with her husband. And some of the staff are relatives, including a young waitress who is French Canadian. "But she speaks good English," Severine said. When I told her about my trip, she said her husband (who was busy in the kitchen) had hiked the Appalachian Trail years ago. Small world, isn't it! I ate a little, but still felt weak. It's great when the owner waits on you because they, of all people, want you to be happy. Finally, we decided a bowl of ice cream might revitalize my battery.

Always welcome!

Still a little shaky on my feet, but better, I walked a bit along the main street. Almost all the storefronts were built in a log style of the old west. The "Outlaw Bar & Grill" was overflowing from a wedding reception. (The couple had gotten married under the gallows out back.) There even was a health food store called "Mountain Health." Another oddity on Main St. was a 20' high cow skull over the veterinarian's office door.

After that, I spent some quiet time listening and talking to people on the benches outside of the campground office. I'm tired and sore, but, oh so glad I took a complete rest day yesterday instead off going out to Sinks Canyon. I don't know if I would have made it without every ounce of energy reserves I could muster.

I'm told I'll have trees tomorrow, which should lessen the wind's effect considerably. Plus, it sounds as if bear activity is up in a few campgrounds I'm headed for. Oh, goodie!

6/22/01 Lander, WY

0 miles

I was amazed when I woke up and didn't need a jacket. Guess that should have told me what kind of day we were going to have (hot, if you hadn't guessed).

When I went to bed last night, after the lights went out over the baseball fields, there were two of us tenting in the park. But when I woke in search of a bathroom, there were 10, either tenting or just with a sleeping bag on the grass. I wonder where they all came from.

I had to walk around town before the Wildflower Bakery opened at 7 A.M. What a great place, with very good bagels and cinnamon rolls. After that, I spent the morning doing errands, like the library (email), bookstore (looking for books on Lewis & Clark), a new watch battery at Rhoads Jewelry, went through my food bag, and then went to El Sol de Mexico for lunch.

By this time, it was very hot. "Hottest day this summer so far," said Tom at the park. So I decided just to kick back and relax instead of doing the side trip to Sinks Canyon. Ended up just doing a lot of walking.

Back at the park, I read a little and tried to take a nap, hoping a few riders would show up. At one point, I got to talking with a few folks from Boulder. Toni, Christy, and Jeff had been doing some university research near the Tetons and were headed back to Boulder tomorrow. I hope I can remember some of the "uncrowded" places to stop at when going through Yellowstone. I love talking to people and hearing their stories, too.

Called work (back in KC) to check on my co-workers. Even though I'm having fun, I miss them. After that, I went in search of a barber shop. The other day I got a chance to look at myself in a mirror and I scared myself! I think I had more hair on my ears than on my head. But after my $8 haircut, I sure am a handsome devil.

Main Street

After dinner at the Gannett Grill, I found Willem camped at the park. He said it had been a hard day fighting the wind and heat. When I suggested we go to the movies, he said he wasn't feeling very well. "Probably the heat," he thought. He thinks he'll take another day off tomorrow because of how he feels.

The last I heard from Mike (the Australian I biked with in Kentucky and Illinois), he had finished his ride to Seattle and had stated that riding alone was the downside of the whole trip. I couldn't agree more. Even though young Willem and I don't have much in common, we have the kinship of the road.

I went to see "Pearl Harbor" at the Grand Theater on Main Street. The movie affected me both on and off the screen. Going to a show on Friday night is such a "being at home" kind of thing to do. As I got wrapped up in the story, I wondered about where I fit in this world. How will I make my mark? Will I find love? Who is Jim Damico?

I know I should be at least in Montana by the time anyone reads this. So, I'm not sure how I'll feel then. I know I cling to these towns as a life preserver against the loneliness. Tomorrow I'll get on the bike because home is a long way away, so what else would I do? Town, people, and miles of roadway all blend together like a dream montage. Still, so long to go yet, or will I wake up at home, in a bed, getting ready for work tomorrow? People think this trip is physically very difficult, but I'm here to say that's nothing compared to how it affects you mentally. My AT hike was the same, but there I constantly had the support of fellow thruhikers. Here, a fellow cross-country cyclist is a rare find.

I hope Willem feels better tomorrow. He sounds as if he'll be taking time off in Yellowstone, too. So, tomorrow morning will probably be a final goodbye. On a lighter note, Bubba (whom I met in Kentucky) isn't too far behind. And I should be crossing paths with the Adventure Cycling group, which includes my Kansas City friend, Jim Fogle. Hopefully Yellowstone and the Tetons will break me out of this funk. (P.S. Melissa, I didn't get lucky.)

6/21/01 Lander, WY

64.8 miles

Didn't waste much time getting on the road. The wind was all quiet, and for that I'm grateful. Not much traffic this early, either.

Today was a pedal-pedal-look up-pedal some more kind of day. Just me, the bike, and the open range. A few pronghorn greeted me, and I even saw some new offspring playing in the distance. Otherwise, aloneness.

The highlight of the ride was a five-mile downhill with portions at least a 6% grade. It was nice not to pedal, but, for some reason, I didn't build up more speed. Near the top, I said hello to a couple of riders on their way up. I couldn't really blame them for not stopping. I yelled encouragement and let gravity take me down the hill.

At the Sweetwater Station rest stop, I talked with a large group from one of the universities in Utah. They were following portions of the Mormon Trail. Today they were even going to walk a portion of it using hand carts, just like their ancestors did long ago.

After that, it was another 30 miles of - you guessed it - open range. The only difference was I could see snow-covered mountains in the distance. Eventually pulled into Lander a little after noon. Passed a tractor graveyard that would be the envy of a thruhiker friend, John, who is retired in Ireland and works on restoring antique tractors.

But what is the first business I spot coming into town? Pizza Hut and their AYCE lunch buffet. I couldn't resist.I just couldn't. After that gastronomic experience, I pedaled up and down Main St. Despite the terrain, the city is very flat and easy to navigate for a town of 7000 plus.

A tractor graveyard

At the city park, talked with Tom Kaiser of the park staff. He told me a few stories of other cyclists past. Like the one about the guy who, after battling head winds all day, just sort of collapsed in the grass. Or of the Swiss couple that was crossing America on their honeymoon, so Tom bought them a good bottle of wine. "You would have thought that was the best thing to ever happen to them the way they carried on," he said.

After setting the tent up, Lori directed me to the city pool for a shower (Jacuzzi later) and then on to laundry. Talked to a few college-age kids while waiting for our laundry. One guy couldn't say enough about Wyoming and Lander as great places to live. "I'll be watching for you on Good Morning America," he said, enthusiastically.

And because there are so few bike shops along the way, I like to stop and say "Hey" whenever they appear. Mike Young, who owns "Freewheel," took the time to chat with me.

Lander is also the world headquarters of the National Outdoor Leadership School, or NOLS, for short. I'm an alumnus, having done their Semester in Kenya course back in 1987. They have 2-week to 3-month courses in places like Alaska, Kenya, the Rockies, Baja, and Patagonia. Someone was nice enough to tell Bruce Palmer, head of marketing, about me stopping by. Because a meeting was taking place, I took a break to go buy some ice cream. Mmmmm.good.

Back at NOLS, Bruce was very interested in my trip, the fund-raising, and my connection to NOLS. Another staff member, Pablo, stopped by briefly. He had biked from Tierra del Fuego (tip of South America) to Alaska. He highly recommended I stick with the Continental Town & Country tires, even for the dirt road portion of the trip. "But make sure they're the ones made in Germany," he said, "instead of Taiwan." He got 10,000 kilometers (6,200 miles) out of his first tires. Bruce said they would be happy to put a piece on the website highlighting my trip.

Although I wasn't very hungry (at least I thought so), the "Gannett Grill" came highly recommended. Finally, a restaurant that caters to vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. You gotta love a place that has things on the menu like "Cluck Boob" (chicken breast), "Fungus Among Us" (mushroom sandwich), and "Branding Iron" (meat pizza). I had the mini "Popo-za Pizza," a pesto-based pizza with cheese and tomato. And, remember, things are bigger out here, so that mini was the same as a small in Kansas City.

Lander has a college-town feel, but doesn't have a college. And it doesn't seem to cater specifically to tourists headed to Yellowstone. There's a hospital, county library, plenty of restaurants, and even a theater (tonight was "Shrek & a Knight's Tale"; tomorrow "Pearl Harbor"). And because it's so flat, a lot of people bike -- both young and old.

The park is a busy place tonight. I watched Bruce's little league team play, but there are tons of kids making noise (like only kids can make). Nearby is a German couple car camping, and there are several RVs in the parking lot.

Play ball!!

Depending on my errands tomorrow, I hope to ride out to Sinks Canyon State Park (only 7 miles, but uphill).

6/20/01 Jeffery City, WY

70.1 miles

Willem likes to sleep late, so I didn't have the heart to wake him when I was leaving at 7 A.M. Because Western Hills Campground visitors get a 10% discount, I headed over to JB's Restaurant for their AYCE breakfast buffet (as if I needed an excuse). Made my way back through sleepy Rawlins, and headed north for Jeffery City.

You can tell the road north isn't used much because there were absolutely no businesses north of town. None! As you can imagine, the open range I've been going through these last days was the same headed north.

A long climb out of town had me crossing the Continental Divide again and dropping into the Great Divide Basin, an area completely surrounded by the Continental Divide. It almost felt like riding across a crater.

Just before riding out of the basin, there is the town of Lamont, population 3. I was just going to stop for a snack, but it turned out to already be 11:30. The winds must have really slowed me down. Talked to a few construction workers about the trip as I had lunch at "Grandma's Café." It was good to be out of the wind for a while.

More extensive road construction today as I left Lamont. The complete highway was being torn up. On one section I had to bike on a temporary dirt road behind a procession of a lot of trucks, cars, and RVs. One of the signal girls said they had 85 MPH winds last Tuesday and that half of their new hires quit the next day. Made it through all the roadwork without much trouble.

Muddy Pass wasn't much of a pass. But I did run into three eastbounders. Jason and Natasha are together, and Matt has joined them for a while. We talked about the good and bad in either direction. I warned them about the construction and then recommended the Western Hills Campground in Rawlins. They didn't see anyone else westbound today, but that doesn't surprise me.

Matt, Natasha & Jason

Saw more pronghorn antelope today, but also three dead ones along the road, along with shattered car parts. Didn't see any prairie dogs, though.

Split Rock was a prominent landmark on the Oregon Trail. At the rest stop, talked to a mother and her little girl about my adventure. One interesting thing on the interpretive signs was that the Mormons usually traveled on the other side of streams and rivers than the other settlers headed west.

This open range is beautiful in its own way, with lots of olive and khaki color. The only real green was found on the banks of the Sweetwater River. I wouldn't want to live here, though. I think I'd miss the trees too much.

The Sweetwater River

I thought the guidebook was being too judgmental when it called Jeffery City "a virtual ghost town," but she wasn't wrong. The town was born because of mining (in 1958?) and is fading now that the mine is gone. Dozens of buildings are boarded up and abandoned. I only saw four businesses: Split Rock Bar/Café, another bar, a liquor store, and the post office.

I'm camped behind the Lions Club Picnic Pavilion. The weeds are knee-high and the Freemason Hall next door has been unused for a long time (the door had been busted down). While the sun was out, the mosquitoes were relentless. Since there isn't any water, I went down to the café for a sandwich and a bowl of ice cream. Ron said he's owned the place for 16 years and would love to move on, "but the folks here have become dependent on the place," he said. Filled up my water bottle in the bathroom and headed back across the highway to my campsite.

Because of the mosquitoes, I took refuge in the tent, laughing at those little buggers trying to get in. But they had the last laugh because the sun beating down on the tent created a sauna. I just lay there dripping and feeling lethargic.

Later, when the sun went down, it all changed again. The mosquitoes are gone because the winds have become fierce. And the temperature is dropping fast. And the worst thing about this "city" camp is NO TOILET! At one pint, I could have gone another 18 miles to a pay campground, but decided against it. So, now I lay in my tent. No one else around. Can't find anything on the radio - bummer.

I think the plan will be an early departure so I can get into Lander. Might even have to take a day off. That is if these winds don't destroy my tent tonight. Come to think of it, they feel like tailwinds. I hope they continue until I'm in Lander.

6/19/01 Rawlins, WY

66.8 miles

It still amazes me how far the temperature drops up here in the Rocky Mountains. It must have been at least 80 degrees yesterday, but this morning I could see my breath it was that cold. But after I got on the road, the impossible happened - no wind. Not even a breeze. I thanked the weather gods, but knew it might not last.

Made good time to Saratoga, but it was still pretty chilly. Had breakfast at "Mom's Kitchen." When I saw what I thought was a cinnamon roll, I ordered that in addition to French toast. But you should have seen my eyes bug out when she brought out this roll almost as big as the plate. Alas, I couldn't eat the whole thing.

Before I left town, I went in search of the famous hot springs. The city maintains a 24-hour "hobo pool" next to the city pool. You could see the steam wafting off the large wading pool. And no sulfur smell! Some times like this, I wish I was with someone on this trip to share things like this hot spring.

Outside the city there is the Storer-Saratoga Lake Wetland. You could see evidence of salt, probably from the hot springs. Plus, I'm sure the warmer water helps grow things more abundantly. Believe it or not, I watched a whole flock of pelicans from an observation blind.

Besides my quick little friends, the groundhogs, I saw a few groups of Pronghorn Antelope and a few deer. Otherwise, it was just open range land for miles.

I can't remember if it was an interstate highway I rode on in Kentucky, but I sure was on one today; I-80. And to make matters worse, one side of the highway was closed for over 10 miles due to construction. At least my side of the road had a huge shoulder. That is the nice thing about Wyoming - all the roads have shoulders.

Finally got off of I-80 at Sinclair. As I passed a huge refinery, I realized that this is home of Sinclair Oil (you know they have the symbol of a green dinosaur). One of the few other businesses in town was the "Su Casa Café," highly recommended in the guidebook. And they were right. I think I will be a blimp when this trip is over as I eat my way across the USA.

Sinclair Oil Refinery

Next stop, Rawlins. Probably one of the easiest entries into a large city on this trip. I stopped to talk to the girls working at the Wyoming Frontier Prison. Nice museum, but I passed on the tour. The only campgrounds were off route on the other side of town.

The sign said $14/tent at the Western Hills Campground and I started to ride away. But I decided to stop and ask anyway. Wow, what a place - grass tent sites, shower and bathrooms, TV room with cable - all for $6. My wonderful host, Doreen, gave me the low-down on local restaurants. After a shower, I rode down to "Cappy's Restaurant."

How do I find myself in these situations? I mean, they fed me too much! Soup, salad, lasagna, and spaghetti, plus toast. I know I said I was going to cut back on my restaurant eating, but I'm a people person. Just like in my "normal" life, I hate eating alone. So, when I find myself camping alone, I just feel the need to be around people. Like at a restaurant. And the bummer is that I couldn't even finish my dinner.

Wyoming Frontier Prison

Once back at the campground, who should I find but Willem. He said he didn't even make it to Riverside yesterday because of the winds. He stopped at the first house outside of town. And, besides getting a place for his tent, he also got dinner. He tried in Rawlins, but had no luck, and then he saw my tent set up in the campground. He thinks he'll take tomorrow off, but I have a feeling we'll see each other more before we end up in Astoria, Oregon.

Willem from Amsterdam

With the long stretches of sameness along the road, I have a lot of time to think. Yesterday it was a "next" trip called "Lewis, Clark, & Jim" following the route of their 1804 trip up the Missouri. Maybe I could get grant money/sponsors by being an amateur naturalist, recording my discoveries, just like Lewis & Clark. Live interactive classes via the internet with a group like Earthworks would be good, too. How about using one of those white water river rafts with an outboard motor. I'd need an awning so the boat could double as a houseboat. Either a bike or lightweight motorcycle would allow exploration away from the river (and help with re-supply). This would be high tech, a real amateur scientific expedition. With all the excitement of the Lewis & Clark expedition, 2004 would be a great year to be on the river. Maybe even following the route to its end at the Pacific Ocean.

Today was different. I was thinking way ahead, to a time when I'd settle down with someone. How to make a living, but also follow dreams as we get older. I need some property to build on, maybe three buildings: the "Wandering the World.com" internet complex (really just a two room shack). From there, I could offer internet access, do some internet consulting, and maybe even do some web site hosting for local businesses. The other half of the building would be used for music lessons (I'll teach violin and guitar while my wife would teach piano) and massage therapy.

The second building would be a copy of the miner's cabin I saw in Frisco to rent out as a cabin. I'd target folk singers/musicians for that perfect getaway. A close small town with an open mike bar/restaurant would be a plus. Besides a log bed with homemade quilt, loveseat couch in front of the fireplace, closet in one corner, while in the other a complete information/entertainment center (computer, TV, phone, and maybe midi-keyboard), the building would be a highly efficient log home (maybe timber-frame construction or double layer log with packed earth insulation). Other possible additions would be a jacuzzi or maybe a thermal patio/greenhouse. This could be our residence for the off-season, but mainly would be rented out as a cabin. The emphasis would be a winter hideaway with outside opportunity for 10 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails or for snow shoeing.

The last building would be a dual one. In summer, my houseboat would be outside, while underneath the roof would be a boat under construction. In winter, my boat would be moved under the roof by floating in a channel. This would be the basis for Dragon's Breath Boat Building - houseboats in the canal style of Europe.

And, last, there would be an open area for cross-country cyclists to tent. How about a shelter with a composting toilet, solar shower, and a few bunks and covered table.

As you can read, my mind works overtime. Now, if only I could find my granola girl in a sun dress to join me on this adventure called Life (fingers crossed with a smile).

6/18/01 Riverside, WY

50.8 miles

It's amazing. The winds can be gale force during the day, then they stop completely after sundown. After talking to Willem, who has a budget of $5-7 per day, I decided to check my spending. I thought I was in the $10-15 per day range, but it turned out to be more like $23 per day - ouch! So, even though I had free camping, I decided to cook with Willem and save some money.

Another mailbox

I should have kept that same attitude this morning, but habits are hard to break. Took time to eat a huge breakfast burrito at the "Moose Creek Cookhouse." It was a pretty fancy restaurant/bar, but the prices were reasonable and the portions huge. I had to struggle to eat the whole thing.

But, while I was stuffing myself, the wind was kicking up. And contrary to the norm, the wind today was a headwind or crosswind. The terrain reminded me of Kansas, but with more rolling hills. As if the headwind wasn't enough, about 35 miles into the day, I had a 3-mile mountain to climb. The wind was so bad, when I stopped to get off the bike, the wind would push it back. I think I have to put this day as one of the hardest.

Even the last miles into town were painfully slow because of the increasing headwinds. And it was downhill! Finally pulled into the "Lazy Acres Campground" in Riverside. They had a huge bell to ring if no one was in the office. Judy welcomed me with a big smile and a biker discount.

After a shower, I headed off to the town of Encampment, about a mile away. If I'd been here yesterday, I might have been able to see some of the "Woodchoppers' Jamboree," including the "mad logger chainsaw throw." Wouldn't that be unique! So, instead of flying chainsaws, I went to the "Grand Encampment Museum." The exhibits have a lot to do with the mining that went on in this area. And a surprise was the collection of original historical buildings that have been moved to the back of the museum.

Grand Encampment

At the recommendation of several town folk, I stopped by the Sugar Bowl Café (The Bear Trap Café was taking a day off because of the Jamboree.). A very young Britney was my waitress. What she lacked in experience, she made up in enthusiasm. She was glad the weekend was over, especially because she was in a melodrama put on for the Jamboree yesterday. And the food was great! I even had homemade French fries with the skins still on. Mmmmm.

Mostly, I'm just hanging out. Haven't seen Willem today, so not sure if he went on to Saratoga. The mosquitoes have driven me into the tent these last couple of days. I guess it's so bad here that the local store was collecting money for a "mosquito abatement program." I have a longer day tomorrow, but just hope the winds are more favorable.

6/17/01 Walden, CO

64.8 miles

It still was a little chilly when I woke up. Left camp quietly, as Ken was still sleeping. The town still looked asleep, too, as I headed out of town. Lucky for me, the "Lone Moose Restaurant" was serving breakfast, and it was packed with people; probably because of the town celebration.

Today's ride was half uphill to Muddy Pass, then half downhill to Walden. Lucky for me that it was Sunday, because traffic was pretty light, mostly headed the other direction. With a clear blue sky, it didn't take long to warm up and I had to start shedding layers.

Of all my rides, I think this was the most desolate. Nothing but road the 62 miles between towns. My only company was the little Prairie Dogs that lived alongside the road. One little guy darted across the road, almost under my wheel. At the speed I was going, I don't think either of us would have fared well.

As always, clouds began to appear in the afternoon, helping to cool things off a bit. And the weather gods blessed me with a tailwind today. Being Sunday, there weren't many trucks on the road, but there were quite a few RVs and folks with trailers. There must have been a Mustang car rally somewhere because I lost count after 30, the number of cars that passed me.

After checking out the city park, I headed over to the "Coffeepot Café" for a late lunch. The place reminded me of an old-fashioned diner, at least in feel. Must be good, because the place was full of families, both young and old.

Back at the park, I just sat and read a new book I'd found in the trash in Kremmling. Then I see another bike show up. Willem just graduated from high school in the Netherlands and is taking a year off before college. He thinks he want to study astronomy. He said his family has toured a lot, but this is the first time he's done it alone. As you can imagine, he's on a low budget, but he rarely has to pay for camping. Because of his youth and accent, he's been able to camp in people's yards most of the time, simply by asking.

After we settled down to cook, the park maintenance man stopped by. Unknown to us, there is a sprinkler system. He said during the summer, he often checks the park for cyclists so he can modify the system to miss their tents. Lucky us!

6/16/01 Kremmling, CO

45.6 miles

Another beautiful morning. I ended up riding to Dillon to wait for Scott at the Blue Moon Baking Company. He needed to find a safe place to park his car for the night. Another great egg bagel sandwich.

Talked to a few customers about the ride, including one who did a cross-country ride "decades ago." Already it was getting warm as we headed through Silverthorne. As with all the cities here in Summit County, we had a bike path all the way through town.

A trout fisherman's dream

Scott is a pretty strong rider, even though he hasn't pulled his trailer in a long while. The ride generally was downhill, with a few short climbs. We were making pretty good time despite a headwind.

At Bob's suggestion, we took a side road to Heeney for lunch. The food at the Green Mountain Inn & Restaurant was good, but it took a while to get it. The owner seemed a bit frazzled because they were short-staffed without a waitress.

Another mailbox

Finished our ride around the Green Mountain Reservoir, which was real low, to join back up with the route. The wind started to change direction and the traffic was a little heavier as we made our way to Kremmling. Scott even recognized a few places along our route from his Great Divide ride in '99.

Entered town in the midst of Kremmling Days Celebration. As I headed to the cyclist area behind the fire station, we met an east-bound cyclist, Ken from Alaska. Because it was still early, Scott decided to ride back to Dillon. It was great to meet him and I hope to see him again when I come through on the Great Divide.

More snow-covered mountains

Had dinner with Ken and later walked among the town's party. Later, they had a big bonfire. That's when I met Lee, another east-bounder, this time from England.

Even with the sun long gone from the sky, the temperature wasn't that cold. Guess coming down a few thousand feet has a big effect.

6/15/01 Heaton Bay Campground

0 miles

Dillon Reservoir

Well, not exactly a zero mile day, but I'm camped at the same spot. It was pretty cool last night, but I slept warm in my down sleeping bag. But must have slept in a weird position, because my neck sure was stiff.

Said goodbye to Bob and headed out under a sunny sky, but still a little cool. Again, the views of the sun beaming down on the mountain peaks were awesome. Took the bike path all the way to Dillon. Found the Blue Moon Bakery for an egg bagel sandwich - very good! Because the bike path doesn't always follow the road, I got a little turned around. Stopped in a gas station for directions. Their instructions didn't sound right, but I followed them anyway. Next thing I know, I'm back in Frisco. Now I'm discouraged. Because I'm supposed to meet Scott, a Great Divide rider, tomorrow, I decided to take a zero day here. That way he has a shorter drive from Denver and he can ride part of the way with me to Kremmling. Maybe have lunch in Heeney. Bob back at the campground was surprised to see me back. They're such nice people, Phyllis said I could camp with them again.

After lunch, I walked among the old mining buildings at the Frisco Museum. I think all the housing expansion here in Summit County could take a lesson from the one-room simplicity shown in these old cabins. Then I headed to Copper Mountain on another one of the many bike paths. The trail followed the highway, with a mountain stream alongside. I couldn't believe it when I passed a large mound of snow. Couldn't resist making a snowball. It was a nice ride.

At Copper Mountain, I asked directions to some of the hiking trails at a gas station. When Jim found out what I was doing with the bike trip, he asked, "Are you Forrest Gump?" Humor aside, he directed me to the trailhead for Wheeler Lakes.

The hike up was pretty steep, with a lot of switchbacks. It didn't take long to find myself in beautiful forests of Pine and Aspen. The higher I went, the cooler it got. In places there was still snow. Some of the trail was muddy from snowmelt. After about an hour, I finally made it to the lakes. Words cannot do the view justice. And, unfortunately, my camera batteries decided to go dead. So, just imagine a mountain lake with a meadow, surrounded by white-tipped mountains, with nothing man-made in sight. All you hear is the sound of the wind and the babbling of a brook. Heaven!

Headed back down to Frisco and the campground. I called Scott, who decided to come down tonight and ride the whole weekend with me. Because the campground was full, Bob and Phyllis said Scott was welcome to camp with me.

Scott got to camp pretty late, but we still sat up for hours talking. Besides a few beers, he also brought some excellent cake from a neighbor who works at a bakery. Mmmmm!