8/16/98 Mount Katahdin

7.6 miles (2160.7 total)

Hard to get much sleep with the rain and the anticipation of Katahdin. About 4am, both Groovin’Moose and Kid packed up for an early summit climb. After that it was hard to go back to sleep. Most of us packed in the dark. We left the shelter about 6am in the rain. It just didn’t look like a good day.

It only took an hour to hike the several miles to the Katahdin Stream campground. Because of the rain, Groovin’ and Kid were still waiting at the ranger station when we got there. They classified today as class 2 - not recommended for hiking due to the weather. Our disappointment was high.

After an hour waiting for the weather to break, Bulldog, KFT, Groovin’Moose and Bubbles decided to try for the summit anyway. They had no choice but to try today or never finish. The rest of us milled around trying to decide if we should go into town and try tomorrow.

By 8:30, it really did look like the weather might break. Or maybe it was wishful thinking on our part. Finally, we decided to go for it. At 8:40, the rest of us, Lief, Tortoise and Hare, Kid and myself literally ran the first mile up the mountain. The sun would come out for a few minutes, then it would get cloudy again. The rain had stopped. The first several miles were like most of our ascents. But we finally reached a boulder field that stretched at least 1/4 mile "up". The wind was really starting to pick up. After putting on my jacket and putting away my poles, it was time to climb up, over and around the boulders. Some places were so difficult, rebar handles had been imbedded into the rock. Didn’t make it any easier, just less dangerous.

After climbing, the trail became an exposed ridge with more climbing. Still, the wind made staying upright difficult. Thank God, the rock was relatively dry. It would have been deadly wet.

Leif and KFT walking the 2-mile plateau in cloud-cover

Up over the top of the ridge, the trail flattened out into a plateau for the next 2 miles. Still, clouds blocked most of the views of where we were headed. I hiked with Leif, KFT, and Bulldog, with Skippy close behind. About ½ mile from the peak, the clouds started breaking up and the peak stayed visible ahead of us. You could almost make out the others already there. As I got near the Katahdin sign, I slowed down letting the others have their moment of triumph.

I'm so excited to finally get here
But I have a tear in my eye

As I reached out slowly to touch the sign at the end of my 2000+ journey. my thoughts were of my cousin Nancy, who I knew was there with me. I probably would have broken down and cried if there hadn’t been such a crowd.

Bubbles, Bulldog, Skippy, Groovin'Moose, KFT, Leif,
Tortoise & Hare, Kid, and Dragon's Breath

We all took time for congratulations and pictures. We all huddled in amongst the rocks trying to shield ourselves from the wind. The clouds would come in but would dissipate in minutes. After a couple of hours, we all started back down. As I looked behind, the clouds were completely gone.

The climb down proved much more difficult than the climb up, especially down the exposed ridge and the boulder field. I have to say, that mile was like a vertical Mahoosuc Notch. My vote for the most difficult mile on the AT. Just a beautiful day coming down the mountain. Stopped for a few minutes at Katahdin Stream Falls.

Today is Hare's birthday and that's her sister, Tortoise

Reached the campground to find it over-run with everyone’s parents, many making a surprise appearance. Besides Tortoise and Hare’s mother, Groovin’ Moose, Kid, KFT, Leif, and Bubbles and even Ghandi’s parents were there.

A little champagne with Mt Katahdin

As each hiker emerged from the trail, they got a clamor of applause and congratulations. Our journey ended and now ready to go home.

8/15/98 Daicey Pond Campground

11.1 miles (2153.1 total)

What can I say. I’m sitting here tonight, amongst my friends, on the eve of finishing our thru-hike - while the torrential rains continue this evening. Yes, started raining this afternoon and has only gotten worse. A fitting end to this "el niño"-extreme thru-hike.

Skippy, Leif, KFT & Bulldog
take a break at the Abol Bridge

This morning, was up early and had only thoughts of coke and ice cream at the Abol campground store. Overcast but it felt nice. Spent most of the morning eating at various times, all the while checking for a view of Katahdin from the Abol Bridge. By noon, I gave up. While it was bright, the mountain was completely overcast.

The seven miles to Daicey Pond campground followed streams the whole way. Had several fords and good waterfalls along the route. The shelters are packed here tonight. There are 10 thru-hikers, plus at least 6 other people tenting. A new arrival is Bubbles, who yellow blazed here because she needs to finish now because of a Peace Corps deadline. Hare’s mom brought fresh fixin’s for fajetas plus cheesecake for desert.

KFT checking out Big Niagara Falls

Poor KFT, he’s found his tent in several inches of water. It’s so sad it’s almost funny. Our secret dread is that the weather will keep us from summiting tomorrow. I can’t think of anything worse, I just want to finish. Probably looking at a poor night of sleep. Going to get up early for the dash for the summit.

8/14/98 Hurd Brook Lean-to

19.5 miles (2142.0 total)

Yesterday I saw Katahdin for the first time. Just looked like one more mountain to climb to me. As I thought about it, Katahdin isn’t as important as the people it allowed me to meet along the way. I’ll climb it, hopefully with some of my thru-hiker friends. I think it will be a sad ending because of all of us going our separate ways and entering the regular world. But also joy at completing such a grueling journey in an el niño year.

Almost there and we're full of smile

The walk up along Rainbow Stream had to be some of the best views of the water. Lots of falls, chutes, and flumes. But the trail itself was treacherous, much like those in the south. Part of it would have been impassable in the rain. Walked alongside Rainbow Lake for over 5 miles. Large rocks in the water near shore reminded me of whales. Just missed a float plane take off. A nice day, weather wise, not too hot with some breezes.

Cutting across the beautiful Rainbow Ledges

Was surprised to meet Eric and Tortoise & Hare’s mom on top of Rainbow Ledges. Eric did some crazy cross-country car trip to surprise Hare. They ended up walking south to camp at the lake with the girls.

At the Hand Brook lean-to, met Leif’s mom, Mountain Mama. They make a pair. We all sit around and compare plans, both for the next few days and beyond. Got a 10+ day tomorrow, then 7+ to the Summit on Sunday. Hope it doesn’t rain like forecasted.

8/13/98 Wadleigh Stream Lean-to

29.1 miles (2122.5 total)

Awesome day! Beautiful weather, good breezes, some nice sections of trail, only occasional mosquitoes. Went so fast, I just kept adding the miles. But it could have started bad.

Last night I froze. Had to get up in the middle of the night and put more clothes on. Still could see my breath. Got up early (which surprised me) anyway. Had to ford the East Branch of the Pleasant River. Just didn’t want to wade through. Ended up just getting one shoe wet. Had a few small mountains, then it was smooth sailing with a downhill grade.

Stopped at Antlers Campsite for lunch. They had my vote for best privy on the trail. Called "Fort Relief", a log-cabin privy complete with wash basin and curtains. Real homey.

A lot of the day followed many streams and rivers. The trail was pine needle with roots for the morning. Some rock hopping, occasional swampy areas. The most bog I’ve crossed in one day.

My first view of Mount Katahdin

Ran into Leif and KFT at the Nahmakanta Stream campground. That was 24 miles for me but after seeing them, I decided to do 6 more to the shelter. Lots of PUD’s (pointless ups and downs). Now I’m part of the entourage for summiting Katahdin on the 16th. Even Skippy is here. I’m sore from doing 30 miles (in less than 12 hours) but glad I’m here. 20 miles tomorrow, then we summit.

8/12/98 East Branch Lean-to

20.6 miles (2093.4 total)

The rain yesterday showed me how little I have in reserve mentally. At one point the tears just came down. I think it was because even with a full shelter, none were thru-hiker friends.

More rain last night. Got an early start because Ultralite is an early riser. The day didn’t start out so good. Fell twice walking back from the privy. Plus leaving the shelter, took 10 minutes to find the trail. Mostly overcast skies with some drizzle.

Ultralite and I kept comparing falls (and cuts and bruises) all day. Had to ford the west branch of the Pleasant River, knee deep and cold because of the rain. The trail up to the next shelter never really felt up. Passed lots of southbounders, including SAM and his parents from Texas. Met them way back in Virginia.

A cold crossing

We did 10 miles by noon, but White Cap was still ahead. We made steady progress over the four progressively higher peaks. On the way down, fell and broke another pole. The sun kept peaking out from time to time. Nice to see a shadow. Weather reports for the rain to move quickly out.

Did the math again. If I do 23+ tomorrow and 25+ the next day, I can catch Tort and Hare before the 16th. Seems doable since I just did 20+ over White Cap. Left Ultralite at the last shelter while I headed to the next one.

8/11/98 Chairback Gap Lean-to

6.8 miles (2072.8 total)

Rain, fucking rain! Just a light rain last night but as the day went, it increased, and increased. Falling was normal. All the climbs both up and down were vertical. Made my way to the first shelter by noon. As I took a lunch break, the rain started to pour (have I used the word ‘torrential’ too much?).

I hated to do it but I decided to stop early. That means that my schedule for the 16th is near to impossible. I can sympathize with Billy Goat. I’m tired of hiking. I just want it to end. If I wasn’t in the middle of no-where, I might have quit today. Tomorrow looks like more rain and some cold. Slept a lot today - maybe my body needs the rest.

8/10/98 Cloud Pond Lean-to

16.1 miles (2066.0 total)

Mrs. Pratt (The Pie Lady) dropped me off on the trail by 6:30am. Wanted to get an early start to beat the heat. Didn’t but I tried. My plan was to do 19+ so I’d be in a better position for White Cap. But that meant first slogging away the miles.

Finally had to ford a stream in my sandals. A few streams looked real inviting if only I’d been doing a slow day. One section after Hudson Valley lean-to has so many blowdowns, I thought it was the wrong trail. Lots of waterfalls.

The climb up Barren Mountain was pain incarnate. It was a steep climb after doing all those other miles in the heat. Then near the top you could hear thunder. That motivated me. Arrived at Cloud Pond lean-to via a real shitty approach trail. With the shelter full of a family and a few other hikers, it was put up the tent fast in case the showers started.

Looks like I’ll have Ultralite as a shadow until I catch Tort and Hare. Planning on doing 17 tomorrow.

8/9/98 Monson, ME

3.0 miles (2049.9 total)

Another scorcher today. Up late last night drinking beer and discussing the difference between east coast and midwest work ethics. Had breakfast with Skippy, who’s really Irish. And Gilligan stopped by to wish us luck.

"The Pie Lady" boarding house

Had a real conscience nightmare today. Didn’t leave till 3pm this afternoon but the Pie Lady took me to the AT access on ME15 but that’s cutting 3 miles off my walk. I hiked about a mile but those 3 I missed kept nagging me. Finally, I couldn’t stand it. I walked back to the road and hitched back to town. The Pie Lady took me to where I got off yesterday. I hiked the 3 miles and hitched back to Monson. The Pie Lady wants to change my trail name to "Goofy".

Talked to the Purests (Ghandi, Billy Goat, Obi-Wan). They want me to finish with them on the 17th but I still think I’ll try and catch the Tort and Hare by the 16th. Just about a week left in the trail, excited, scared, tired, and I want the big K bad.

8/8/98 Monson, ME

21.4 miles (2046.9 total)

Matt and I got up early! Packed and on the move by 6:15am. The climb up Maxie Bald Mountain was easy compared to the profile and the guidebook. If we had known this, we would have pressed on yesterday. Made it to the next shelter by 8am.

All morning, despite the increasing temperature and annoying mosquitoes, we couldn’t believe our speed. We just kept pushing fast and hard. Next shelter by 11:35am, but exhausted. Instead of trying for town by 2:30, we took a long lunch break. The crossing of the Piscataquis River was disappointing, barely ankle deep.

Hot and tired, we finally made the road to town. Ended up walking a couple of miles before someone picked us up. Headed straight for the Pie Lady’s. Tort and Hare and Groovin’Moose had already arrived. Word on the trail is that Ghandi, Billy Goat and Obi-Wan quit the trail 6 days ago to go canoeing. They’re supposed to hit Monson tomorrow to finish the hike to Katahdin. I don’t understand why they continue.

Havin' a beer with Matt at the Pie Lady's

8/7/98 Bald Mountain Brook

19.2 miles (2025.5 total)

Matt and I tried to kill ourselves today - breakfast at Harrison’s, crossing the Kennebec, attempting 2 mountains and 22 miles. Didn’t quite make it. This morning we had breakfast at Harrison’s Pierce Pond Cabins. Blueberry pancakes, eggs, sausage, milk and juice for $6. I’m sorry to say I couldn’t finish it all. Very good food but the Harrison’s were a little stand-offish.

Skippy gets a ferry ride across the Kennebec River

Ended up getting to the Kennebec in just over an hour. Steve, the ferryman, was a good-natured talker. Then headed for Caratunk. After a coke and a root beer, headed out to the trail. Steady, long up-hill to Pleasant Pond lean-to. From there it was a steep but short climb up to Pleasant Pond Mountain. The ridge walk down seemed to go all over so the trail crossed every exposed rock outcropping. After awhile, you got very hot exposed like that.

Always have to stop in the local stores to get ice cream

Made it to Bald Mountain Brook lean-to with 2 guys out section hiking and a family tenting, out for a week. Gilligan showed up, so Matt and I decided to hike on. Just before we left, Skippy showed up very tired. Skippy retires next year from a company that assembles huge electric diesel shovels, the kind that could scoop up a whole house. He started April 15 and is wearing down.

Just another hot, sunny day. Lately I’ve seen lots of frogs on the trail. But yesterday, almost all the frogs were tiny, about ½ inch long. Strange! We just walked about ¾ of a mile away from the shelter to look for a campsite. Kind of lumpy and uneven but it will do. The last couple of nights I’ve had cold/flu symptoms but not during the day. I just don’t want to get sick this close to the end.

8/6/98 Pierce Pond Lean-to

17.3 miles (2006.3 total)

Another wonderful day! The only climbs were small "hills" compared with what we’ve been going over. Most of the hiking was fast because the terrain was relatively flat. Matt and I took a lunch break at East Carry pond, near still another group of Canadian campers, this time young girls.

The lake behind me is called East Carry Pond

Kind of giddy again today. Fell on my face and started laughing at myself. Just love to open up the speed on this easy terrain. Happy to break 2000 miles today.

Did the 17 miles to Pierce Pond Lean-to by 3pm. A bunch of scouts were camped nearby. Gilligan moved on, thank God! Beautiful sunset with the shelter right on the water’s edge. Got a big day planned for tomorrow.

8/5/98 Little Bigelow Lean-to

15.4 miles (1989.0 total)

The only was to describe my morning attitude was "giddy" with excitement. The weather was perfect, again! Even the long climb up South Horn couldn’t dampen my spirits.

Almost convinced Hare to take a dip in Horns Pond

Up Bigelow Mountain, met a lot of day-hikers. Crossed Bigelow and discovered Matt taking a lunch break at Avery Peak. What great views of the lake from here. The trail was pretty, nearly all the way to Little Bigelow Mountain. Must have been another relocation. Probably added a few more miles, kept running into "Gilligan" whom I then tried to avoid all day.

Horns Pond as seen farther "up" the trail

Met another camp group at Little Bigelow Mountain (east end). Megan and Craig, the leaders, were pretty cool. Megan is good friends with Hellfire, whom she said is off the trail. They were in charge of a wide assortment of kids - a German, a French boy, two from Russia and two beautiful girls from Turkey and several kids from Maine. All with lots of questions about my thru-hike.

A very nice trail

At the shelter, I discover a loud French-speaking group from Canada already there. The other group decided to move on. Other hikers in the shelter were Tennessee Tom and Jukebox, both flip-flopping from Virginia. Skippy, an Australian thru-hiker, came later. One thing of note, the privy had curtains and was a two holer.

8/4/98 Stratton, ME

7.1 miles (1973.6 total)

Another clear sunny day! The girls and Groovin’Moose left while I was still packing. Probably will see Matt again. The climb up the Crocker went smoothly, not too much steep climbs. Caught up to and passed Tort & Hare. Lots of weekenders, several large groups. Passed a few girls headed to Hanover from Katahdin. By the time I reached the road, Groovin’ was still hitchhiking after 30 minutes. We teamed up and about 15-20 minutes later a couple picked us up. He had a sick sense of humor and she kept apologizing.

Stopped off at the post office and then headed for the White Wolf Inn. Just my luck, closed on Tuesday. Matt showed up, so the three of us ate lunch at the diner.

I went across the street to the Stratton Motel & Hostel. Who should be in the office but the woman from the post office, on her lunch hour. Her family owns the motel. Met a couple of young guys, section-hiking - one south, one north. The guy headed north is staying in the motel. The southbounder is the only other one in the hostel besides me. Charlie is taking him to the doctor because of continued giardia symptoms. Later that night after dinner at "Mainely Yours", we watched a video. Ended staying up past midnight talking about the attitudes of thru-hikers.

8/3/98 Crocker Cirque campsite

14.3 miles (1966.5 total)

Today is my 5th month anniversary on the trail. I’ve done so much, met so many people and only 2 weeks to go.

My thoughts have strayed a lot to "after" Katahdin. Being in the "real" world is going to be rough. I hope I can keep in touch with those like Tortoise & Hare to keep this trip alive in memory.

Today was a lot like yesterday but the ups were less severe. Passed by some great looking streams. My water filter didn’t work this morning unless I primed it. Took lots of breaks with Tort & Hare.

At the Spaulding Mountain lean-to, the register was full of southbounder hate for northbounders. As we are completing our incredible journey, beating the odds, we might seem arrogant and overconfident. We’re not, just psyched to be near the end. Personally, the few who wrote the worst comments probably don’t have the "adaptability" to make it the whole way south.

Near the top of Spaulding Mountain, met Mooseless, a vegan. Even his boots were synthetic. I wished him luck in staying vegan on the trail. The climb down Sugarloaf was another shear drop boulder hop. I just hate going downhill. but by this time of the day, all four of us are hiking together. Had to rock-hop across the Carrabassett River because the bridge is washed away. Headed up Crocker Mountain about a mile to the campsite.

The bridge had been washed out

Matt from the shelter last night showed up at this camp too. He’s really a funny guy. We made a lot of fun of his pack, what with his 13 pound tent and all. I’m rooting for him to make it to Katahdin. Tomorrow I say goodbye to the girls as I have a mail drop in Stratton. Maybe if Ghandi and Billy Goat catch up, we can motor ahead to join Tortoise and Hare. Plus I’m a little worried about my mail drop in Monson.

8/2/98 Poplar Ridge Lean-to

10.7 miles (1952.2 total)

What a beautiful Sunday! After packing up and leaving mom a message on her answering machine, Wayfarer came by to take us to breakfast with his wife, Zelda. At first, I thought she wasn’t going to like us. But by the time they dropped us off at the trailhead, she was treating us like family. Also at the trailhead, ran into Honey and Bear who run the "Cabin" in Andover. We’d heard a lot of good things about it this last week but never thought of staying there. Bear turns out to be the guy EWOS and I met on the road to Salisbury, back in CT. He remembered my name and wants me to drop by after Katahdin.

Hitchin' a ride in the back of a truck

I love the sun because it makes shadows. We stopped at every peak today to take long breaks, feeling the wind and the sun. Last night I spent way too much energy worrying about work. Looking at the mountains all around me, I don’t even think of work. Our peaks for the day were Saddleback, Horn, and Saddleback Junior.

Appalachian Trail

A reunion of sorts - met Groovin’Moose on Saddleback. He’d taken several days off due to an ankle injury. Plus we saw a lot of Hoofer and Wanderer. Also, at the shelter is Matt, a chef, and Phil, a weekender.

Hoofer said he could stay up here all day

8/1/98 Rangeley, ME

13.8 miles (1941.5 total)

Hard to wake up this morning because it was chilly last night. But the girls had us on the trail before 8am. No mountains today, just hills. Mostly a sunny day with an occasional cloud. We took breaks often and talked a lot while hiking. Almost got a glimpse of a moose and her calf but they moved too deep into the forest for us to get a good look. Ran into Hoofer and Wanderer today while they were slackpacking. Both seemed like nice guys.

When we finally made it to the trailhead near Rangely, who should we spot but Bruce from Hiker’s Paradise and Ultralite. Bruce gave us a ride into town after handing each of us a cold coke. Did our grocery shopping and headed to the Red Onion for pizza. I went to the Alpine Garden outfitter but we had no luck with the water filter.

Unfortunately for us, the Horsefeather Bed & Breakfast, which had great reviews, was booked for the weekend. So we ended up at the Farmhouse Inn. Wayfarer, who attempted a southbound hike this year but had to get off because of knee trouble, saw us getting ice cream and offered to give us a ride. The inn is a nice place but the owners seem a little scarce. Hope I can find a phone to call home.