6/30/98 Upper Goose Pond Cabin

15.8 miles (1525.7 total)

What a night! Or should I say a nightmare? Just like the register entries foretold, about 9pm, we started to hear the chewing noise. The shelter had a way of amplifying the noise to deafening proportions. I finally jumped out of the tent, fought off the mosquitoes just long enough to chase away the largest porcupine I’ve ever seen in my life. A couple of hours later we hear a different chewing noise. Directed our flashlights to the wall to discover porcupine jr. doing his best to reduce the shelter to toothpicks. A couple of hours later we hear the chipmunks playing with our food bags. All during this ordeal, we hear the constant rain. Finally, about 5am, EWOS and I are completely awake and we start to laugh hysterically. The sleep deprivation was getting to us.

The rain continued as we left the cursed shelter. The trail today wasn’t much up and down, just flat swamp and mud. We started to give ourselves a colorful sports commentary and play-by-play of the "men’s doubles swamp crossing championships". It really made the sloppy miles go by fast. But after 4 or 5 hours our imaginations lost steam, and we kept going in silence.

The rain gave way to the sun in the afternoon but the ground was still soaked. Even though we had a relatively short mileage day, we didn’t arrive at Upper Goose Pond Cabin until dinner-time. A boys’ group had commandeered most of the porch space while we tried to find a place of our own to dry our stuff out. Already there was Groovin’ Moose and Shade. The caretaker and his two sons just volunteered for a week. Too bad we didn’t have time for canoeing on the water.

6/29/98 Mt Wilcox South Lean-to

18.3 miles (1509.9 total)

After all the sunshine, it was inevitable that the rain would intrude again. This morning was rainy and cool. Our plan was to hike to the road and hike into South Ergemont so EWOS could pick up his maildrop and maybe we could get some breakfast.

The one thing the rain didn’t stop was the mosquitoes. Because we were crossing a lot of swampy farmland, they seemed more active. Ended up walking the whole way into town and stopped off at Mom’s Cafe. Breakfast was wonderful but I don’t think they get many hikers in here. The waitress definitely seemed to avoid us (or maybe our aroma!).

On the way out of town, we ran into the ridgerunner for this section of trail. During the summer, many of the AT clubs hire ridgerunners to help any hikers on the trail, be it emergency care or just education about low impact camping or the Appalachian Trail. Today he was out with a couple of trail maintainers, cutting grass along the AT as it wound it’s way through farm fields. They gave us a ride back to the trail after talking about our trip. More walking through the rain and mud. At one point, we found a good size stream with no bridge and had to ford it up over our knees. I was definitely not having a good day.

We reached US7 around lunch and decided to chance the 0.6 of a mile to Shea’s Irish Pub. Had a good burger and a beer while EWOS savored his Guinness stout.

The trail followed the Housatonic River for a while before crossing more farm fields. The mosquitoes were so bad, we had to reapply the DEET after only an hour. The climb out of the valley was steep, made more difficult by the bugs and the rainy weather. Heard at Shea’s we were in a tornado watch. At one point, we decided to skip the bad weather route around one of the climbs because we thought the storm winds would keep the mosquitoes at bay.

Got to the Tom Leonard Lean-to, finding it full of a group out for a week southbound. We yogi’d some water before heading to the next shelter. Doing an extra 5 miles today would give us more time to relax at Upper Goose Pond Cabin tomorrow.

Found this mysterious paper on the trail.

REPORT to the Mosquito High Command SUBJECT: Human Feed Stock on Planet Earth Our long term project to perfect mosquito feed stock on the planet Earth has come with great success! Eradication of dominant large dinosaurs a complete success but took excessive time to stabilize planet’s climate. Gene modification of hairy ape to get a hairless mammal showed good results. Available target skin about 95%. Human feed stock does cover portions of body but usually does not pose any problem for normal mosquito feeding population. Strange herding behavior of note. Once a planetary year, large group travels up the eastern mountain ranges, sometimes through some of our most dense mosquito population areas. Large attrition rate but the human feed stock to reach the northern terminus has blood of the finest quality. Human feed stock somewhat intelligent. Has devised a product called DEET which has confused some of our population but the effect wears off quickly. Casualties are minor compared to the quality of the product. Recommendations:   1) full scale colonization of planet Earth   2) continued development of several other "gauntlets"      over central and western mountain ranges   3) gene modification to increase immunity of DEET.

We hoped to get to the South Mount Wilcox Lean-to by 7pm. But the weather decided to worsen with increasing downpours. After finally arriving at the lean-to, soaked to the bone, we remembered why people advised against this shelter - porcupines. The entire structure had teeth-marks on it, with most of the damage on the floor edge. We decided to set-up EWOS’s tent inside the shelter because of the continued annoying mosquitoes.

6/28/98 Glen Brook Lean-to

12.2 miles (1491.6 total)

The morning was overcast and a little cool but the day had a lot of potential. EWOS and I headed into Salisbury for a little breakfast and some groceries. I think Salisbury has been the only town that is the small New England I had conjured up in my mind. Everything was close together, easy walking distance, and not too townsy. We bought groceries and deli sandwiches for lunch while waiting for the bakery, next door, to open. Had the greatest sticky buns in the world, straight out of the oven. They melted in our mouths. A very good start for the day.

By the time we left town, the sun was shining. Met a few weekenders at Riga Lean-to. What a great view of the valley. Actually, we kept meeting a lot of day hikers. On top of Bear Mountain, we sat on a rock tower and talked to a father whose son is going to thru-hike next year. Had a very steep, rocky descent towards Sages Ravine.

Hiking again with EWOS (Ed WithOut Sandi)

Once down, walking along the stream, I couldn’t believe how beautiful it was, the very essence of a mountain stream. Definitely a place I’d like to return. Ended up crossing the stream before the falls, reportedly a spectacular sight, the trail wound its way along the cliffs of Race Mountain. Took a much needed break at the base of Mount Everett even though the mosquitoes were getting to be a problem. The climb up, while relatively short, was almost vertical. Finally we ended up at Glenn Brook Lean-to.

6/27/98 Plateau campsite

27.8 miles (1479.4 total)

Today started out so-so, then became spectacular, then turned into a nightmare. Seems it rained a little last night, so the morning was still overcast and the trail vegetation was soaked. But while walking I saw some deer walking in the river along the edge. Sometimes the rain can lend a crisp, clean air to everything, and that early in the morning, it was so peaceful.

All morning it looked like rain, with a few sprinkles from time to time. Ended up passing Shade, another thru-hiker. We ended up talking a little at Pine Swamp Brook Lean-to. EWOS had spent the night here alone but the mosquitoes were bad. The stream for water was pretty scummy. Rain continued as I left the shelter.

The flattest (some say the only) 7-mile stretch of the AT

As I climbed Sharon Mountain you could hear the car engines down at the Lime Rock Race Track. Guess Saturday is "race day". About 1pm the sun decided to make an appearance . Up ahead, I slowed down because of some day hikers taking pictures. Good thing too, because moving ever so slowly right in front of me was a rattlesnake. I would have surely stepped on him. He rattled at us until he could find a sunny spot in the rocks.

Almost stepped on this 4-foot rattlesnake

After that I was moving fast to make it to the cafe on US7 before it closed at 3pm. It had a new name "Fast Track Cafe". Made it with plenty of time to enjoy a big burger. When the owner questioned if it was cooked the way I liked, I said, "no, but it was good anyway". She didn’t charge me, said the cook needed to get it right. Had a great sticky bun to go but ate it before hitting the trail.

The afternoon was sunny and a little breezy. Stopped to ask a family to take my picture with the Iron Bridge over Housatonic. Talked to them about my trip and all. The trail followed the Housatonic upstream to the Great Falls. The place looked great for swimming. Took a break hoping a few locals might be diving off the falls but I guess it was late in the day. Just a nice afternoon to hike.

Pulled away from the river and headed up to the ridgeline. At first the mosquitoes were just annoying. Stopped to put some bug repellent on and found a lot more attacking when I stopped. Kept hiking but the bug juice didn’t seem to be working. I walked faster all the while swatting here and there. Finally, they started swarming, almost like a cloud. I stopped and tried to put on my raingear. I was swinging my jacket wildly, just so I could get an arm in. I literally ran up that ridgeline, sweating in my raingear. Once at the top of Prospect Rocks, the breeze was enough to keep the bugs at bay so I could take off my jacket. But I continued to move quickly, just in case the mosquitoes got bad again.

The guidebook said Limestone Springs Lean-to could be bad with mosquitoes. When the approach trail started to become a severe descent, I decided to skip the shelter and move on to a campsite 4 miles away, hoping the bugs wouldn’t be so bad. Finally hit the road and began a long road walk.

Showed up at Plateau Campsite about 7:30pm, feet very sore, body tired after a 27.8 mile day. Two tents were up and I approached one ask about better tentsites. EWOS pops his head out. "Is that you, Dragon’s Breath?" Seems we spent the whole evening trying to catch up on what had happened since Damascus. It was so satisfying to catch up to him. It ended the day on a much higher note, especially after the mosquito attack.

6/26/98 Stewart Hollow Lean-to

7.5 miles (1451.6 total)

Because of the mosquitoes, I ended up getting up real early. I was packed and ready to hit town a little after 6am. It was overcast and a little muggy but cool. It was only 0.3 of a mile till you could hit the road that went into Kent. That early, the whole country-side seemed asleep. The road went through the Kent School, one of America’s foremost prep schools. You could tell they had a lot of money because of all the facilities - indoor hockey rink, field hockey, football field, baseball field, clay tennis courts, huge headmasters home, etc.

Once you cross the Housatonic River, the road takes you to "yuppieville". I was really surprised at the shops I passed - seemed more like the Plaza (in Kansas City) than some small New England town. First order of business was breakfast at the Villageer Restaurant. I was a little surprised to be the only one there. The very young waitress and I talked about Kent while I chowed down. Seems I always order french toast when in town. Not Yet later joined me. I was not sure why EWOS and Bugbait didn’t stop here because it was the only place that served breakfast.

Headed for laundry, then the store and finally to the outfitters. Still no EWOS. I kept walking all around town but never saw him. After doing all my town chores, I headed for Kent Pizza Garden for a big burger. Seems now that I’m a "flesh eater", I eat meat every chance I get. Saw Bluegrass in town. Finally stopped by Stork’s for a milk shake, then a pepperoni sandwich to go at the Kent’s Market. The local library was having a book sale, so I bought one for the trail.

Bluegrass and I headed out of town in the hot afternoon sun. The climb up was another long one (which ones aren’t?). We passed Not Yet and continued keeping a fast pace. By the time we reached St. John’s Ledges, the sky was overcast. The descent was down a long steep boulder staircase. Something I wouldn’t want to do in the rain. Passed by a group rock climbing near the cliff we just came down.

Did a nice flat river walk but the mosquitoes were bad. Passed a strange stand of red pines that were all dead - some sort of experiment to grow them in Connecticut.

Arrived at Stewart’s Hollow Brook Lean-to to find that EWOS had stopped here for lunch. Now he was 10 miles ahead and I don’t see how I can catch him. Everyone tented so I had the shelter all to myself, me and the mosquitoes. Bought some 100% Deet insect repellent back in town. I hate using the stuff but I don’t see any alternative. Sonny Days showed up later. I’d met him back in Virginia. He’s just traveling up and down the trail giving out trail magic. Tonight he’d carried up a 6-pack of Budweiser for us all to share. Ended up talking with him late into the night.

6/25/98 Mount Algo Lean-to

21.5 miles (1444.1 total)

Strangest thing happened last night. Sometime about 10pm, after we’d all gone to sleep, I hear voices approaching the shelter. In the dark, it looks like 3 young teenage boys, maybe with a sleeping bag under their arms. Then a few more people arrive, this time I think, adults, with several younger girls. They really thought the shelter would be empty. But they decided to move on to higher ground to Cat Rocks. I think a few had day packs.

This morning the sun was bright, shining into the shelter before 6am. Didn’t sleep so well, so it was hard to get moving. Said my good-byes to Elena and Eley, thinking of the deli 3 miles away. The funny thing was, the valley was in a fog. The farther I went down, the thicker the dew got. One thing the moisture did was make all the cobwebs easier to see. It seemed the whole mountain was covered with flat-net webs all over the ground. The Dover Oak did look like it could be the largest tree I’ve seen on the trail. But the road was the beginning of a lot of wet pasture walking and a few bog bridges. I think my boots get more wet walking through the farm fields than in a rain shower.

The wonder of light and fog

The "Appalachian Trail Station" was a little anticlimactic being in the morning shade. From here you can catch a commuter train to New York City on weekends. Took a right at the highway and walked the ½ mile to Toni’s Deli. I guess I’d call it a "trucker" stop - lots of beer and skin magazines - wonder when the health inspector visited here last? Bought a coke and a donut, and Toni offered to fill my water bottle. A few customers had questions about my trip.

All aboard for New York City!!!

On the way back out of the valley, I passed the neatest old water tower. I’ve never seen anything like it. A concrete base with multiple buttresses supporting a wooden cylinder with a wood shingle conical roof. By now you could tell the day was going to hot and humid.

Saw this wonderful water tower

My plan for the day was to hike 13 miles, taking my time, with a long break at Wiley Shelter. That changed somewhat when I got there. Pension Hiker was a slightly crazy older man taking a day off at Wiley, waiting for a pension check so he could move on north. And he told me EWOS left a message for me. While I read the register, I could hear Pension Hiker talking to himself. With him here, I don’t see taking a long break. EWOS had taken another day off because Bugbait wasn’t feeling well. That meant they left the shelter this morning. EWOS offered to buy me a beer if I made it into Kent tonight. The offer was tempting, so I’ll decide at the next shelter.

The trail conditions were murky. A lot of bog bridges but I think more were needed. The mud was in that in-between state: not squishy, not solid. Plus a few areas were overgrown, you couldn’t see the trail. My guess was that we were hitting the upper 80"s with high humidity.

Reached the Ten Mile River Lean-to around 2pm - and EWOS had left more notes - drawings of ice cold beer and such. I knew it was crazy but decided to do the miles. That was despite the mighty lightning bug display Chunky described in the register.

Walking along the river, I was reminded of Johnson Shut-ins , down in southern Missouri. The rivers flowed over the rocks, forming hundreds of inviting pools - wish I didn’t have to do the miles. The trail headed through tall pine trees with the ground covered with red pine needles. Decided to take a Ben and Jerry break at Bulls Bridge, just across an early 1800’s covered bridge from the trail. And it was definitely getting hot.

I wish I could have stayed and taken a nap after all the ice cream. As I headed back to the trail, I looked at the mountain in front of me and thought of all the food in my stomach. I keep saying "fucking mountain"! Schaghtmore Mountain was a long, hot climb, over 1000’ and over a mile long. Kept asking if a beer with EWOS was worth it. After a while, I thought every down was the last but they kept coming. One long downhill reminded me of the rocks in Pennsylvania. One more uphill, then down and I was at the next shelter. Seems I’m always catching up to Not Yet. He was having a hard day because of a bunch of poison ivy he got today. I’m thinking I’m lucky I haven’t gotten any. Because there’s no place under $75 a night to stay in Kent, I’ll stay here and look for EWOS in the morning . After looking at the guidebook, I’ve got a full morning planned - breakfast at the Villager Restaurant, laundry, groceries, then the outfitters for new socks, Kent Pizza Garden for lunch, then get a deli sandwich from Kent Market to go.

Tried something new tonight to battle the mosquitoes. I tried sleeping in my wind/rain gear without a sleeping bag. Got too hot and sweaty. Changed later in the night - plus used the sleeping bag as a blanket. Ended up pulling the cotton liner over my face to survive the insect attacks.

6/24/98 Telephone Pioneers Shelter

16.2 miles (1422.6 total)

Had another fitful night battling the mosquitoes. Everyone decided to tent except Angel Fire and me. I had hoped for one of those snore-free nights - but NO! She tells me its the loudest she’s ever heard, even louder than Bjorn. Not the best way to impress a woman.

Was packed early so I could do the 5 miles quick to the deli. Said my good-byes. Lynx had to somehow get back to the Graymore Friary where he left his stove, pot, spoon, etc. And Angel Fire is probably only going to the next shelter. I’d like to see her again before Katahdin.

Had a few hills to climb this morning but not too bad. When I finally reached the Mountain Top Market, I was famished. First, I ate an egg-cheese-sausage sandwich, then a large cinnamon roll, then a sausage-pepper-onion hoagie, then a pint of ice cream and washed it all down with a coke. Boy, was it good! After the Apple Valley Inn in Glenwood, I think I’ve lost enough weight, 30 lb. is OK - I’m down to 155 lb. But I still have 2 months to go and I don’t think losing much more weight will be healthy. So I’m suspending my vegetarian eating because meat has lots of fat/protein in a compact source. After the hike, I’ll go back.

After breakfast - lunch at the deli, most of the day was rolling hills with many twists and turns. The few steep climbs I did have were short. Passed by Nuclear Lake - very beautiful but off limits for camping and swimming. The lake was contaminated in 1972 by the processing of low-level radioactive materials. The lake is "radioactive free" but still is being monitored.

The weather has begun to have a pattern: overcast in the morning, sunny during the day, then cloudy in late afternoon, then overcast in the evening. But, again. thank the goddess - no rain!

Sharing the shelter with 2 camp counselors out for the weekend, scouting for a trip they’ll have in a week or two. Sounds like a bunch of young teenage girls. She’s nice - from Pittsburg, he’s from Israel.

6/23/98 RPH Shelter

18.7 miles (1406.4 total)

Ten Penny was at the pavilion along with the tents of 2 other hikers who were taking care of a sick dog. They were gone all day and didn’t get back till after we were all in bed. Had to quit the journal writing because the mosquitoes were too bad. Even going to sleep was hard with them buzzing all around my head. Two more guys came in late. But by morning, we had left before the late arrivals had gotten up.

The sky was overcast and the trail was a roller-coaster of steep ups and downs, twists and turns. Since Pennsylvania I’ve been seeing these rock-wall fences, today seeing a lot . One was 4 feet high but 6 feet thick. Later, we actually walked on a similar wall for over 1/2 mile. Turns out it was a small road used by mules to haul stuff from iron mines in the hills.

But after Campers Lake, the trail became more rolling terrain. At one point, the path wound its way down a rock wall lane. I was trying to imagine if people lived here once. And maybe someone walked down this same path, maybe a young couple.

Got to the RPH Shelter, which is really a converted garage with a few bunks and a porch. Angel Fire is here also. I met her last in Hot Springs, NC. She quit at one point, took some time off to visit family but decided to return to the trail. She was in New York, so decided to get back on the trail at Bear Mountain. She’s anxious to see all her old hiking friends again - Veto, Crawdad, Moondaddie - sound familiar. EWOS is only on for 2 more weeks but I’m not sure I can catch him and not kill myself. They stopped here for a break yesterday.

The 2 guys I met in Vernon are here tonight, also. They were the late arrivals at the Friary last night. Headed for the Telephone Pioneers Shelter tomorrow with a much needed stop at the grocery store in the morning.

6/22/98 Graymoor Friary

7.2 miles (1387.7 total)

Well, I hung out on top of Bear Mountain, ate dinner and read some of my book. About 7pm, I decided it was time to find a secluded campsite off the trail. I didn’t really have to go far when I found an area of pines, not too many roots or rocks, and pine needles to fluff up my bed. I dumped my pack and was going to check out a little farther down the trail, when I see Bulldog. He was headed into Fort Montgomery for the night, so I asked if he wanted to split a room.

The park near the headquarters was overflowing with Sunday Father’s Day crowds. Bulldog and I definitely looked out of place walking along Hessian Lake. It was a long highway walk to Fort Montgomery, so we stopped at the first hotel we saw. The Old Oak Inn. Turns out the owner had just died and a lot of her family had just arrived to take over the place. They let us have a room for $30, the only one they had left. Nice little place, with a bar in the basement. Had a few beers, watching X-files with Frump and Ten Penny who were also staying here.

Slept pretty well despite the highway traffic and a noisy air conditioner. Walked 1/2 mile to the Bagel Cafe but it was worth it - very good food. After searching all over town for someplace to take a credit card, I gave up having lunch. Got my pack and headed back to Bear Mountain. Hopefully I’ll see Bulldog and Frump after they get back from New York. I owe Bulldog $5 for the room. Kind of an overcast day - hope it doesn’t rain.

A foggy morning, looking at the Bear Mountain Bridge
our way across the Hudson River

While getting my maildrop, in walks Lynx. And while I read my mail down by the lake, here comes Steve - also known as Bluegrass. It was great to see him again (its been since Hot Springs). He ended up contracting Hepatitis A somewhere in Virginia, and took some time off to recuperate. Plus, in my mail came my "new" boots. But I was reluctant to wear them so I packed them with the other gear. So Lynx and I headed back out on the trail, which went right through Bear Mountain Trailside Museum and Zoo (thru-hikers get in free!). The zoo houses injured animals that can’t be put back into the wild. The bears sure looked healthier out in the wild.

Lynx and I try to get a ride

Lynx headed out across the Bear Mountain Bridge that spans the ½ mile wide Hudson River, while I called home. By this time, the sun came out just in time to heat me up as I climb out of the Hudson River Valley. Met up with Lynx and we hiked an easy trail to the Graymore Friary.

Lynx up ahead

One of the brothers thought this place was about 400 acres. Seemed big to me. You could see this place was nice a long time ago. But for the hikers, we’re camped out on the baseball field, with water, picnic pavilion and a privy.

6/21/98 Fort Montgomery, NY

13.7 miles (1380.5 total)

Had a few sprinkles but that was all. Got up to another beautiful day. Left the shelter before the ladies tenting even got up. I was pleasantly surprised to find the trail today very nice. More like a trail we’re used to, with few blowdowns or swampy areas. Stopped by Lake Tiorati Circle, near the beach, for a coke. Talked to a few people about my hike, then took off.

I just can’t get over how many chipmunks there are here. All day they screamed their high-pitched bark at me. I must have seen a hundred. They’d look at me, bark, then run away. The shelters in this park are only a little better than the ones in the Smokies. They’re dirty, full of trash, just not inviting. Plus, none of them have water.

Walked down the Palisades Interstate Parkway to a rest area listed in the guidebook. A weird feeling walking in the median with cars whizzing by. But when I get there, New York has a very different idea of what is a rest area, compared to the Midwest. A few parking spots, a bookstore with vending machines and bathrooms. I couldn’t believe no tables or even a bench to sit on. Talked to a few scouts waiting to be picked up after 3 days on the trail. Because it wasn’t restful at all, I decided to push on. Instead of stopping at the West Mountain Shelter, I want to keep going all the way to Bear Mountain and camp somewhere. There is an observation tower on top with drinking fountains and bathrooms.

Turned out to be a long climb up. I couldn’t believe all the people. A few I saw on the trail but the tower was overflowing. A lot of motorcycles. Guess everyone comes up here for a Sunday drive. The ranger said camping wasn’t allowed anywhere in the park except at the shelters. So I guess I have to do some stealth camping. On to the Bear Mountain post office, get something to eat in Fort Montgomery, then its off to the Graymoor Friary tomorrow night.

6/20/98 Fingerboard Shelter

14.4 miles (1366.8 total)

Except for the bugs, had a pretty good night, if a little warm. This morning looked like another good day - would have been if I didn’t get lost again. Took the wrong trail, backtracked and followed the blazes until I found myself back at the shelter 45 minutes later. Turned around and started again. The trail was a little of everything this morning. The hardest part being a huge area of blowdowns. Had to bushwhack around and through 10 to 20 big trees. Even used one big tree to tight rope across a stream. But near there was a beautiful waterfall (and I should have figured, a rock climb). Made the road crossing in 2 hours. Decided to try my luck at the deli. Bently’s Deli just opened 4 days ago. Used to be Pappy’s Deli - great sandwiches and nice people - worth the 3/4 mile walk.

Spectacular waterfall in Harriman State Park
but the trail ascended the same cliff

New York does its best to be the rock climbing portion of the AT. Very scary climbing with a pack on, slipped a few times. The goddess definitely watches over me. The ups are just hard work, the downs too difficult to balance. The worst part was the descent to the Orange Turnpike. I really don’t know how people get their dogs down something like this.

Had some beautiful days (but hot) hiking in New York

Good water being scarce in this section, I headed for a piped spring with a 1/2 mile road walk. I needn’t have worried about finding it because 3 cars stopped to fill jugs while I approached. One even was a New York Highway Patrolman (at first I thought he was going to hassle me about being a vagrant). I guess it beats paying bottle water prices in the city.

At first I was very impressed with Harriman State Park - nice trails, marked well, not too steep, wide with soft ground underneath. But the farther from the park entrance, things got run down. Lots of blowdowns, plenty of muddy areas, poor trail markings and the mosquitoes were worse than normal. One interesting part was the "Lemon Squeezer", a crevice the trail slips through. I was just small enough but it was a chore to get the backpack through. Kind of fun actually.

Try getting both yourself and pack
through the Lemon Squeezer, only 18" wide

Arrived to find Fingerboard Shelter empty. I can’t believe there’s no one on the trail near me! This makes 3 nights alone in a row. Met a few women out for a lady’s hiking weekend, 2 daughters and their mom. We chatted a bit about the trail and the weather - we’re both tenting tonight. Plus lots of trash around the shelter.

One reason I don’t want to sleep in the shelter is the place is overrun with chipmunks. The hillside is covered with them. At least I hope the ones out in the field are less aggressive than the chipmunks living in the shelter. Dark clouds all around plus thunder, but blue sky overhead. Short day tomorrow, only 10 miles, but with a nasty climb near the shelter.

6/19/98 Wildcat Shelter

17.4 miles (1352.4 total)

Had an OK night’s sleep except for when the sheriff decided to drive right by the pavilion in the middle of the night. Glad I was in the bivy because I knew the mosquitoes were bad.

Had some incredible pastries from the Saxony Bakery, and cheap too! When I finally lifted the pack to leave, I couldn’t believe how heavy it was. Maybe it was the bug repellent I reluctantly bought, or could have been the cheese sandwich I got from the very sweet girl at Dug’s Deli. Getting a ride during the morning rush hour didn’t work for me in Port Clinton, but I was picked up immediately. Turns out to be a trail maintainer, who asked a bunch of questions about the trail just south of Vernon. He wasn’t too happy about the ankle deep wade across the bog bridges.

The day couldn’t have started any better weather-wise . I had a long climb up the rock steps to get back to the ridgeline. Once over the top, the trail was a beautiful ‘average’ trail, more like the ones in Georgia.

It dawned on me that I would be leaving New Jersey today and yet hadn’t seen any of their infamous bears. All of a sudden, I heard a crashing through the woods. "Deer" I thought. Looking toward the noise, I saw two big black bears running parallel to the trail. Couldn’t tell if they were chasing each other or not. They paced around a bit, about 50 feet from me, as if they knew I wanted a photo opportunity. Hope the pictures turn out. Then I decided to continue down the trial.

Lions, tigers and BEARS...

...Oh my! These two seemed to be playing just
long enough for me to take their picture.
They were a lot closer than the photo shows, believe me!

The effects of the recent rains were mostly diminished now. A few puddles here and some mud there. The only big problem was Long House Creek. I had to wade knee deep in water just to reach the bridge that crosses the creek. But by afternoon I said goodbye to New Jersey and "Hello!" New York.

Looks like we're going to get a little wet

Takin' a break while I dry out

But the first seven miles into New York seemed more like a rock climbing route than a backpacking trail. Lots of rock traverses on top of the ridgeline, some I’m glad I didn’t have to do in the rain. One part was so difficult, they put a ladder to get up the rock face. Only got lost twice. Didn’t see the trail veer off a road walk and there was no sign for the shelter. Probably walked an extra mile or two.

Surprising because it’s Friday night, I’m alone again at the shelter. No thru hikers, section hikers, or weekenders. Maybe Ghandi, Piper and Longstride will catch me in Bear Mountain. The mosquitoes are pretty bad so I’ve got a fire going. Tonight’s dinner was "salad in a bag", that even came with dressing and croutons, plus a little cheese cake for dessert.

6/18/98 Vernon, NJ

4.5 miles (1335.0 total)

When you get a good nights sleep, you don’t need much. Got up about 6am with the sun. Spent most of the morning writing in the journal, trying to get caught up. This was a perfect morning. Had ‘fancy’ french toast with the other guests this morning. Then because Mitzi was busy getting ready for a full house this weekend, she rushed up back to the trail by 9am.

Restored one-room school house in New Jersey

The sun was out, the temperature just right with a cooling breeze, only a few bugs. Even the three mile road-walk didn’t dampen the mood (even though not one person waved back to me). I don’t even know why I had Mitzi wash my socks because they got soaked again crossing several swampy farm fields. Headed into Vernon about 11am with no luck hitching a ride.

I’d walked about a mile on a busy highway when a guy (thank god for people who drive junky pickup trucks!) picked me up. He didn’t know about the AT or Vernon but gave me a lift to town. Once there, I met a few section hikers who gave me the low-down on everything.

First and foremost - food. Went and bought pizza. I still haven’t got used to the enormous sizes on the east coast. Then headed over to the diner to write, then believe it or not, I got a haircut. Then off to the store for groceries and ice cream. The camera store sort of fixed my tripod, can’t wait to try it. Went up to the deli for a late dinner but nothing jumped out at me. Might try chinese later.

While sitting here during a brief but intense rain storm, I’m definitely feeling lonely. The firemen all seem busy and no other hikers came in today. Looks like just me. I’m bored and lonely.

Spent the night alone near the firehouse

The pavilion isn’t bad, but it’s a gravel floor. They’re building a bunkhouse next to the bathroom but it’s not done yet. There’s a hand pump for water and if I want, the HAZMAT truck is available for showers. This is really a great setup for hikers, with everything an easy five minutes walking including the post office. Tomorrow I’ll stop by the bakery before hitting the trail.

6/17/98 Glenwood, NJ

15.2 miles (1330.5 total)

Besides Longway, Not Yet and myself, 2 guys on the 2nd day of a 17 day trip, stayed at the shelter. Because of the weather, their sore feet, and they admit-heavy packs, they weren’t having much fun. Though it only sprinkled last night, it was hard to tell because we are surrounded on all sides by overflowing streams. We didn’t get up till 7:30 which is late for most thru-hikers. But the 2 guys were still in their sleeping bags when I left near 9am. Although I started out in sunshine, it threatened rain all morning. Today’s trails were mainly small creeks but lots of mud, the worst being in the farmland we had to cross.

Vernie Swamp was something I dreaded all morning with its 112 bog bridges because I didn’t know how flooded it would be. But my feet didn’t get wet once. Finally after crossing more roads not listed in the guidebooks, I walked into Unionville, NY to Horlor’s Grocery for a deli sandwich. But needing a place to use the bathroom, I headed to the hostel at the Back Track Inn. And guess who I should meet but Short Job, a section hiker I met outside of Troutville, VA. With her was her husband, here to give her and Captain Nemo a ride home, and Frump, a ‘98 thruhiker I hadn’t met before. Longway decided to pass up town and keep going to Vernon, NJ, another 20 mile day for him. While Not Yet and I decided to do a 15 mile day to the Apple Valley Inn.

Crossing Vernie Swamp using over
100 bog bridges

My plan to be in Bear Mountain by Saturday would kill me, so now I’m slowing way down to get there the following Monday. Too bad that EWOS is only 2 days ahead, it will be hard to catch him and Bugbait (Sandi) for awhile.

After walking several miles around a National Wildlife Preserve of wetlands, the trail went through another swamp not on the map or in the guidebooks. But in this one, the bog bridges sank to shin deep in places and a few had to be leaps to get across. It was also the beginning of miles of mosquitoes. It made it dangerous in places because while climbing rocks you were also swatting at the hordes as they landed on exposed flesh. So again, mother nature provided reason to "haul ass".

Made it to the Apple Valley Inn in plenty of time for dinner. What a great place, much fancier than I’ve ever been in. Mitzi’s been letting hikers stay here for half price for years, including dinner, breakfast, and laundry. She treated us like family. After breakfast tomorrow, my plan is for a short 4 1/2 mile day to Vernon where they have a pavilion next to the fire station and some more rest and relaxation.

A wonderful night at the Apple Valley Inn

6/16/98 High Point Shelter

19.7 miles (1315.3 total)

Last nights rains were some of the hardest I’ve experienced. Thank God I was in a shelter and not camped somewhere, using the tarp. And it wasn’t just how hard but how long the rain fell. We had to cross a huge area of standing water just to reach the bear box 50 feet away. The trees continued to drip when the wind blew.

My plan was to do 20 miles, my 2nd day out of four 20+mile days. After yesterdays marathon dash, I wasn’t sure how I’d hold up. The most prevalent thing about the trail was water. Longway called it the Appalachian River Trail. I thought it interesting that New Jersey trails people seemed to incorporate every stream, creek, pond, lake and swamp into the trail A lot of areas you couldn’t go around, you just waded through. On the up-side, the sun did shine through the trees on occasion.

Started to see a lot more birch trees

My timing for this thru-hike has let me miss some of the legendary places on the trail, and today was no exception. Worthington’s Bakery, a stop-over for even Grandma Gatewood, was closed. Took a break at Glen Anderson shelter and was pleasantly surprised to find a toilet - no covered privy - just a toilet seat out in the open. Who’s complaining!

The day wore on with still more rocks, water and wet boots. At the Mashipacony shelter a bold chipmunk attempted to look for food while I was taking a snack break. Finally entered High Point State Park in the late afternoon, definitely exhausted. You could see the High Point Monument from the trail but I wasn’t interested in doing the 2 miles side trail. Found Not Yet already at the shelter.

6/15/98 Brink Road Shelter

24.7 miles (1295.6 total)

Mist, fog, drizzle, sprinkles, rain, thunder and lightning - that pretty much sums up today. I just pray that my water-logged boots hold up for a few more days. The new ones I ordered should be in Bear Mountain, NY by Friday. Going to do big miles so I can be there by Saturday morning. Today’s mileage is my biggest - 24.8. Hiked with Longway most of the morning. Both of us got lost on another trail for at least a ½ mile. Sunfish Pond, which is really a lake, was lined with blooming mountain laurel.

Passed Seeker around lunch, the caught Hooser Daddy about 2 miles from the shelter. Again, I was in one of those "haul ass" modes, and he couldn’t keep up. Made it to the shelter in 9 hours (for 25 miles) - blazing speed. Found Bulldog and his brother already at the shelter. Santiago is only out to hike a few days but he’s already miserable because of the weather. With Longway, that filled the small shelter with five of us. Longstride and Lynx must have stayed in town another day. And Seeker must have tarped; not something I would have liked to do in this rain. I was exhausted.

6/14/98 Delaware Water Gap, PA

0 miles (1270.9 total)

Lightly rained all morning while I did laundry. Didn’t really accomplish much all day except for eating - first the bakery, then the restaurant, then the sub shop, then back to the diner. And now I’m still hungry. Called Amy, she and the kids will try and meet me in Maine sometime in August. Called Karen yesterday, she’s pregnant! Great news! I miss home. They had a bluegrass concert here at the church tonight, plus one of the parish girls brought out cookies for the hikers.

6/13/98 Delaware Water Gap, PA

19.9 miles (1270.9 total)

I almost ranked today as my worst day on the trip. The rain continued through the night. This morning it almost let up, that is until I left the shelter. As soon as I started hiking, it began raining again, and as the morning progressed it got worse. I kept hoping the rain would let up, but if anything it only rained harder. At many times I asked myself "why am I out here?" The weather and the trail is getting to me. I miss "home". I passed a southbounder with a smile and thought I’m not the only idiot out here. But no sooner had I passed him, with my spirits a little higher, and the rain down HARDER!

I soon came upon another hiker. Turned out to be Not Yet. He’d gotten off at Wind Gap for supplies and a night out of the rain. Both of us were going over another rock traverse along the ridgeline. I had my metal hiking poles but just didn’t care about the lightning - I just wanted the rain to stop. Got lost several times. I was concentrating so hard on my footing, that I missed the trail at several junctions.

By the time I arrived at the next shelter, the rain had stopped - praise the goddess! Met a few people from a maintenance crew that had just finished a new reroute. Even though it stayed overcast, the rain never reappeared. Other than lake-size puddles I had to wade through, I actually began to dry out. The closer I came to Delaware Water Gap, the more weekenders I saw. Most had waited to see if the rain would stop before heading out. The sun eventually burned off all the clouds and the afternoon was looking a lot better.

Walked down into town to the hostel in the basement of the church. Believe it or not, Smiley was there. He’d taken two full days off, along with a score of others, trying to avoid the rain. Longstride and Longway took the shuttle into town and began bar hopping in the morning and never made it back. A lot of section hikers here, a few OK like Hooser Daddy and a few I’d like to avoid like Chris who asked me "Do you know Jesus?". But it was nice to get a shower. All six bunks were full along with five guys sleeping on the floor. I’ll head into town for laundry tomorrow and see how the weather goes.

6/12/98 Leroy A Smith Shelter

16.1 miles (1251.0 total)

Some days are good, some are bad, and some are real shitty - like today! Ira Fine dropped me off on the trail outside Slatington after a quick run to the store. He didn’t sleep last night, so our conversation was a little one-sided. It had rained on and off all night and the morning looked like more of the same. The climb out of Lehigh Gap was just that - a long climb over rock and boulders. I’ve said it a hundred times "rocks and water don’t mix". A little scary in spots, especially with a full pack. Sometimes I wonder if trail designers take a 40 lb. pack over a new route - probably not. The higher I got, the more rain fell. Soon I was soaked. Lots of large puddles, I just slogged through - why fight it!

The landscape up on the ridge was dry, rock with some small burned tree trunks. Turns out to be a polluted site of a zinc smelting operation. As the day wore on, the rain never completely stopped and I was afraid of hypothermia. My only thoughts were to get to the shelter 16 miles away. I never took a break, didn’t stop for a snack, drank very little water, just pushed on. My body didn’t hurt but eventually I could feel the energy drain low. Finally showed up near 3pm, only 5 1/2 hours after I started. I was shocked at my speed, both because of the climbs and the rocks. Guess the weather can be a great motivator.

Thought the shelter would be more full judging from previous register entries but only Bulldog and I are crazy enough to hike in weather like this. Cramer, the ridgerunner, is here also. We’re sitting by candle-light, rain still coming down, but we can hear music in the distance at the Wind Gap Bluegrass Festival a couple of miles away.

All day I kept thinking how the goddess looks after crazy hikers like me. The trees blocked out a lot of the wind and for that, I thanked them often. Little white moths would flutter around me like wood sprites sent to look out and protect us. I was focused on the miles but I never lost sight of mother nature who surrounds me.

6/11/98 Slatington, PA

18.6 miles (1234.9 total)

As soon as I left the shelter it started to rain and only let up from time to time. Today’s hiking was hard. At one point I had to make a difficult rock traverse of the ridgeline. The rock was slippery with water and moss and I thought "I could die out here". I crawled on my butt part of the way. On the map it was called "Knife’s Edge". The rest of the day took all my energy just trying not to hurt myself on the wet rock trail.

Almost quit after hiking days along
ridges during thunderstorms

Passed by the Bare Oven Knob shelter, that was small, old and filled last night - poor Longstride. Planned on staying at the George Outerbridge shelter just outside of Slatington. Found a guy there, dressed in fatigues and listening to Rush Limbaugh. When we got to talking about the trail, he didn’t even know that Port Clinton was the next town south. So I felt a little uneasy, was cranky and wet. Decided to spend the night in town. Called up Fines’ Lodging and they came and got me.

Slatington was an odd place (maybe every "city" is to me now). Got spaghetti at a family run pizza joint. The owner’s wife sounded just like Rosie O’Donnell. Plus you can’t buy beer at a liquor store, only at a restaurant. So got some ice cream and a 6-pack and watched some cable while it continued to rain all night.

6/10/98 Allentown Hiking Club Shelter

17.9 miles (1216.3 total)

Another overcast morning, turns out most of the trail to the next shelter was forest road walk. If I had known that, I would have kept going yesterday. Got to the Eckville shelter and Longstride was still there. Its another garage converted to shelter with bunks. But the caretaker also has a fridge out on the porch stocked with sodas, candy bars and ice cream. I could have spent all afternoon (and all my money) there. But I reluctantly went on, just another climb out of the valley to get to another ridgeline.

Three rattlesnakes coiled in the rocks

It just started to rain as I reached the Allentown Hiking Club shelter. What a neat place, new shelter and solar privy, plus a tin full of goodies like spaghetti and peanut butter. The privy even had a mirror and a fake flush handle. Ron and Cheryl made it but Longstride decided to move on to the next shelter after another long break. A few kids showed up but didn’t seem to want to share the place with "adults" so they tented a ways off.

6/9/98 Windsor Furnace Shelter

6.2 miles (1198.4 total)

Had a very good breakfast at the 3C’s Restaurant with a fun waitress, at least for that early in the morning. Needed to hitch into Hamburg but no one picked me up in 30 minutes, so I walked the 3 miles into town for groceries. I had much better luck leaving the store with a lady picking me up almost immediately. By the time I had everything packed and ready to go it was noon and very hot.

The climb up out of Port Clinton was a lot safer than the climb down, long but lots of switchbacks. Once on the ridge, the hiking went quickly until I got nearer the Windsor Furnace shelter. The trail was poorly marked and very few signs. I actually passed the side trail to the shelter by about a 1/2 mile. A day hiker stopped to ask questions about thruhiking, told me I had passed the shelter. I made a paper sign for any future hikers. The Soulmates were going to call it a day too, but Longstride was going to the next shelter. I figure Longway missed the trail and kept going. The hot day had become overcast but it never rained.

Soulmates relax

6/8/98 Port Clinton, PA

23.3 miles (1192.2 total)

Definitely a cold night and a chilly start this morning. The plan was to hike to Eagle’s Nest shelter 14.4 miles away and decide if I could do another 8.9 to Port Clinton. Moved fast just to keep warm. Found a reroute that added at least another mile of more rocks. Caught up to Ghandi and Longstride before they’d left their campsite. I just don’t know how Ghandi will catch Smiley leaving so late in the morning. Longstride and I soon left him behind. The two of us made great time over the rocks.

It amazed me at the size of the ferns I walked through

At one point, where we had stopped for a snack break, a weasel ran nearby. I usually take short breaks, so I left Longstride there. The terrain was mostly level, just hopping from rock to rock. Decided to take the long approach trail to Eagle’s Nest shelter to use the privy. While reading the register, I nearly bust a gut laughing at a poem Piper had written this morning.

There is a girl upon the trail, She is the subject of my tale. Its short but you will find it neato You ask her name - they call her Veto. She is Don Veto’s only daughter, He brought her up on gorp and water. He taught her how to write and reado, And then he said her name was Veto. She’s strong as steel but also cuddly, Her eyes are bright, her cheeks glow ruddy, She tantalizes my libido, The only girl for me is Veto. But her only thoughts are set on Ghandi, Enchants him with her magic wandie. She wants to see him in a speedo, And in her ear speak softly "Veto". This is a rumor that I’ve started. It is the truth, I swear cross-hearted. I do not know where love will leado, Blossom of Appalachia, VETO! Copyright © Piper (if you use this, you'll own him money or he's going to be real mad!)

But it was still pretty early, so I decided to push on to Port Clinton, As the afternoon wore on, it got warmer. Besides the heat, it was a lot of easy ridgerunning. Until I got to the descent into town. The trail was at 45 degrees all the way down a loose dirt trail. I used my poles heavily just to slow my momentum and used the points to hold myself, One slip and it was a tumble all the way down. I just don’t know how people do it without poles. Again, I made excellent time, reaching Port Clinton by 4:30.

Followed the blue blazes across town to their pavilion, a large roofed building, open on the sides and with picnic tables. Some trail angel had left a cooler of beer and coke, life is good. But turns out there’s no place to eat dinner. 3C’s Restaurant only serves breakfast and lunch. And the Port Clinton Hotel is having their dining area remodeled. So we ordered Little Ceasers delivery while drinking beer. The pizzas were enormous and never tasted so good. Seems everyone made it here; Longstride, Longway, Piper, Ghandi, Koop and the Soulmates. Finally headed back to the pavilion for some much needed sleep.

Staying in the Port Clinton pavilion

6/7/98 501 Shelter

14.9 miles (1168.9 total)

The sad thing about the hostel is that the trail is being rerouted 3 miles away. And while Ann Tobias watched over us, her husband, Dick, is bed-ridden with terminal colon cancer.

Longway on the Waterville Bridge

Headed out for a long road walk with overcast skies. But before entering the woods, Piper and I ran into Running Dog’s support team. He’s attempting to set the record for doing the AT in 51 days. Today was day 29 and he’s on schedule. They also gave us flyers with a picture of the rapist to put in the shelters ahead. The hiker raped turned out to be a section hiker - glad it wasn’t one of the girls I’d met - but still saddened by the whole thing.

Piper negotiates the rocky trail

The trail wasn’t too bad, included a lot of forest road walk. Almost missed the William Penn shelter because the sign was missing. Took a break with Piper and Longway. Headed for the 501 shelter another 4.6 miles away with rain definitely on the way.

Literally ran to the shelter as the first drops began to fall. What a nice shelter. It looked like an old barn with a huge 12 foot plastic dome skylight, bunks, cooking table, and a johnny-on-the-spot outside. The caretaker even sold cokes and ice cream bars. It was late evening, when who should show up but Ghandi. He’d almost given up the challenge when he heard the caretaker had offered to slack Piper and Longway into Port Clinton tomorrow. But after 5 minutes, he put his pack back on to do another 4-5 miles. He was hoping to catch Longstride who didn’t stop at the 501. Also arriving tonight was Never Quit. Not really sure why, but I don’t like him.

6/6/98 Bleu Blaze Hostel

20.6 miles (1154.0 total)

The plan today was to hike the 17.6 miles to Rausch Gap shelter. If I was having a good day, I’d move on another 3 miles to the Bleu Blaze Hostel. That was because this shelter was so accessible. Often it was crowded with weekend partiers. (Ghandi later told me it was only him and one other hiker this night.) But again, we were blessed by sunshine and a fast trail.

The Rausch Gap shelter was interesting. Built in a depression with rock walls, tree table and a nice fire ring. But while I was there, several day-hikers happened by, plus 3 mountain bikers that had been riding the rails-to-trails route. Once we got off the old rail bed, it wasn’t a bad hike to the hostel.

Longway & Soulmates make themselves home

The Bleu Blaze Hostel is a converted garage with several bunks, toilet, shower, table and couch. Ann Tobias stopped me out on her driveway and asked me if I was lost. I sort of passed the hostel because there is no sign. Her granddaughter, Jan, ran to get me a cold coke that all the hikers get when arriving. Nice place. At dinner, they offered to run us into town to a new diner that had just opened. Spent way too much money on a veggie burger, fries and a soft ice cream cone. But I slept well with a full belly and a clean body.

6/5/98 Peters Mountain Shelter

11.5 miles (1133.4 total)

Didn’t have any rain but the trains ran constantly, as the tracks were less than 50 yards from our tents (behind some trees). Very hard to sleep with the extra morning train volume. Headed over to the truck stop for breakfast. The place even had phones in each booth, I guess to call home.

Did some last minute errands in town, all the while looking for more to eat. It’s funny, the trail takes a long way through town, down some nice streets, but bypasses the main street, which is kind of trashy. Could be a nice tourist place if it was cleaned up. One thing I did like was the women at the post office - gave me a lot of shit but laughed the whole time. Go figure, postal employees with a sense of humor.

Duncannon PA from across the Susquehanna River

Another beautiful day as we left around lunch time. Crossed a wide bridge across the Susquehanna River before heading back up to the ridgeline. Met Emily up on one of the views, using her binoculars, a gift from her husband, to look at the city down below. Found Piper, who’d left early, already at the Clarks Ferry shelter. He’s been trying to write and finds the towns difficult to sit down. After getting water, its farther up and follow more ridgeline. Because of the sunshine, and the fact that the brush along the trail wasn’t so high, the trail felt great.

But as always happens, the trail and weather change quickly. Before reaching the next shelter, it started to sprinkle, so I put on the pack cover. The Peters’ Mountain shelter is as big as a house, with loft and covered dinning area. The only drawback was water was halfway back down the mountain. Took Ron over 20 minutes to climb down and back. Nearby is the Earl Shaffer shelter, a small, very primitive wooden structure. But apparently not primitive enough for Earl because he refuses to let them name the shelter after him because it doesn’t have a dirt floor like all the early shelters.

It’s only Longstride, Longway, Emily and the Soulmates here tonight. The Brothers are off a few days for a wedding and the rest of the gang decided to stay another day in Duncannon.

6/4/98 Duncannon, PA

11.5 miles (1121.9 total)

It completely skipped my mind that yesterday was my 3 month anniversary. That other person, who got up and went to work every day, seems like another lifetime.

We only had one big climb and that was up Rocky Mountain. Good thing the trail was an old road because the entire mountain-side was giant boulders. But once again, up on the ridgeline it was relatively flat and you could make very good time. Hawk Rock gave us a good view of Duncannon. But from here, we knew that there was a steep descent towards the river. It went down, and down, and down. Then, as we neared the bottom, the trail split, having us go up. A cruel joke by some trail designer.

First stop in Duncannon PA for ice cream!!!
Eat up Cheryl & Ron (Soulmates), Longway and DB

Before even going into town, we stopped at the first convenience store to buy ice cream. There we were, all sitting outside, spoons in hand: Soulmates, Ron and Cheryl, The Brothers, Piper, Longway, Longstride and Smiley.

Once in town, it was laundry and grocery shopping for Piper, Smiley and I. Do you know how hard it is to change all your clothes in a place with large store-front windows? After that, it was down to the Doyle Hotel for 60¢ beers. With packs all lined up outside, we filled the bar. Others there included Koop and Numbnuts, several friends of Numbnuts including his girlfriend, Monument, and a weekender friend of Koop’s who kept buying beers for everyone.

Thru-hiker Heaven - 60¢ beers at the Doyle Hotel

The only person who had trouble relaxing was Smiley. He’d made a bet with Ghandi that he’d make it out of PA before he could be caught. And Koop had seen Ghandi a few miles outside of Boiling Springs during the day because he’d been slackpacking south. Smiley was afraid Ghandi would be walking down the street any minute. So after happy hour was over, he bought a sandwich to go and headed out of town.

Piper, Longstride, Longway and I headed for a campground down the road that the Brothers had found. The Riverfront Campground looked like a rundown hippy-vietnam vet compound but the price was right, just $3.50 and that included a shower. Longway, Samson and I ended up heading to Numbnuts hotel to watch the hockey game and drink a few more beers. Before getting too drunk, Longway and I got a bite to eat at a nearby diner. We teased the young waitress, as we were her only customers. Eventually ended up back at the campground and slipped into my bag under the tarp.

6/3/98 Darlington Shelter

18.2 miles (1110.4 total)

The "Dinks", as Piper called them, got up at the crack of dawn and didn’t seem to care if they woke everyone else up. After they left, we got up and started to pack. We didn’t walk but a mile or two before coming to the trail through farm fields of wheat and clover. Eventually, we ended up in Boiling Springs.

Piper and Smiley head across the farm fields
of the 16-mile wide Cumberland Valley

The trail goes through the city park along a lake before taking a turn at the regional ATC office. Unfortunately for us, this city of 1500 doesn’t have anyplace that serves breakfast. Not to leave empty handed, we sat by the lake until Amile’s Italian Restaurant opened. It was a nice lazy morning, talking and feeding the ducks, geese and swans (along with their chicks).

Piper finds a bunny. "Should we eat it?"

After eating way too much pizza, I finally left town about 1pm. It was a beautiful day, sunshine out, not too hot. Eventually, I caught up to Piper as we crossed the farms of Cumberland Valley. We discussed my idea of selling "Dragon’s Breath" Houseboats - an Amsterdam-like houseboat for the rich and famous. And because food is always on our mind, we also stopped at the Middlesex Diner on US11 for carrot cake.

By now, the sky is looking like rain, so we decided to get back on the trail. Finally we reached the end of the valley but not before Piper and I had to cross a field of very aggressive cows. Every time we turned our backs, they charged. Good thing I had my poles.

Mad cows chasing us through the fields
"You want a piece of me?" Piper screams

On the way back up to the ridgeline, Piper and I discussed the shortcomings of women and how to fix it! Got to the shelter to find Ron and Cheryl, the Soulmates, there. I hadn’t seen them since the Smokies.

Just before bed, who would show up, but Longstride. You really can’t say anything bad about him. And I really like the guy.

6/2/98 Alec Kennedy Shelter

15.5 miles (1092.2 total)

Sneaked out of the hostel like a thief in the night. Not really sure why I left so early, about 6am (my earliest start). Maybe all the new faces were freaking me out.

It was a little cold last night and that continued this morning. I almost thought I needed gloves. The lake in the park looked fantastic with the mist coming off it. Again, other than a few rocks, the trail was pretty easy going. Made it to the next shelter before 9am.

Early morning mist coming off Fuller Lake

Halfway done, halfway there

Decided to go in for breakfast but went the wrong way on the road. So I gave up and hit the trail again, hoping to get ice cream at the store.

Once I got to the Green Mountain General Store, I was afraid I couldn’t eat a whole ½ gallon, so I had a milkshake instead. Did some journal writing. Once Not Yet and Emily got there and ordered their sandwiches, I got hungry. It struck me as I sat there with them and The Brothers, that I was the youngest there. Now that hasn’t happened before.

Well, one milkshake, a hogie, a pint of ice cream, a coke and some chips, and 2½ hours later it was time to waddle back to the trail. Piper and Smiley never showed up. The Brothers said they got a late start.

Taking an ice cream break with Emily (age 64),
The Brothers (59 & 61) and Not Yet (54)

The trail was really pretty good. The best part was Rocky Ridge where you had a lot of bouldering to do. Met up with some section hikers just before the shelter. Going to be a crowded shelter tonight.

Yep, up and over

It was so weird being in a shelter with 9 other people and I was the youngest. But finally, Smiley showed up around dinner time. Just before it started to rain. We had one of those afternoon thunderstorms. The kind where its raining but the sun is still shining. And who should show up completely soaked, Piper and Longway. We could squeeze Piper into the shelter but Longway had to tent.

6/1/98 Ironmaster's Mansion Hostel

23.2 miles (1076.7 total)

The big question for today was how hot it was going to be. I was going for the shelter 19 miles away, but really wanted to try 22 and make it to the youth hostel in Pine Grove.

Quarry Gap shelters are the nicest I’ve seen. It should be called the Quarry Gap "Hilton" shelter. Someone had put a lot of work into this shelter. Most of the morning had been cool and the trail was still rocky. But as the sun came out the trail just got better. We had miles of trail lined on both sides by mountain laurel, red and white. A breeze blew all day and once we got up on the ridgeline, the hiking was fast. At Birch Run, I met some more section hikers, the most notable was Emily, a 64 year old who has pieced it together up to here in the last couple of years.

Nice shelter with a creek meandering by...

Once Piper and Smiley got there, we decided Pine Grove would be an easy 22. All day I was moving at a breakneck pace. The descent down to Toms Run shelter was very rocky, slowing me down a little. But I kept thinking about the ½ gallon of ice cream.

Made it to the hostel before 5pm, a little tired and feet sore but happy. My luck just isn’t very good though. Last night’s storm had knocked out power in the area. That meant the store, with its ice cream, was closed. The hostel manager was going to let us stay for free, but we couldn’t use the bathrooms or showers because of an electrical septic system. Piper, Smiley and The Brothers decided to tent anyway while I stayed at the hostel. Met a lot more section hikers - Tombstone, Not Yet, Clark, Crinkle Root and her daughter Jabberwalky. Emily and Never Quit were here too. Plus, a group of older guys we met in the Smokies showed up late.

The one neat thing about the hostel was the giant chess board/patio in the yard. Watched Piper and Jabberwalky play for awhile. Because the other guys had left, I was able to yogi some dinner out of Tombstone. Life was almost like a shelter because most of us went to bed when it got dark.