5/31/98 Rocky Mountain Shelter

19.9 miles (1053.5 total)

Piper decided the heat was too bad to hike in so we needed to get an earlier start. So he set his alarm for 5:30. But I was only able to get out by 6:45. It didn’t really matter though because the humidity was so bad. The rocks are our constant companions now. I guess its just part of the geology in this part of the country.

At RenMar Park, we met Cool Breeze, a flip-flopping southbounder, who has done a thruhike in 1978 and 1988. We’ll see him again when he flips up to Katahdin. Soon there after, we passed the Mason Dixon Line (the Pennsylvania/Maryland state line).

Ahh, the simple pleasures of a hiker...

The plan was to head for Tumbling Run shelter and take a break from the heat before the climb up to the next shelter. The heat was already getting bad by time I reached the Antietan shelter, so I took a quick dip in the creek that ran in front. The nice thing about shelters, they can surprise you, just as Tumbling Run did. Beautiful spot, lots of tenting, spring and stream, privy and even clotheslines out back. We stayed 4 hours. Mostly we just laid around. It was very nice. But I started getting antsy, so I was the first one to leave in the late afternoon.

On a very hot afternoon, Piper takes a nap

Once you got to the top of our climb out of Tumbling Run, the trail was pretty easy. Thought about hitching into South Mountain but not many cars out this Sunday afternoon. The shelters weren’t off the trail too far, but water was even farther. Lucky for me, Longstride offered to get water. Samson’s tenting tonight - good news for me. The Brothers are tenting between the shelters even though its probably going to rain.

Soon after dinner, it did just that. We had a nasty thunderstorm with heavy rains that lasted long after I went to bed. The only thing was the bugs didn’t diminish much with the rain.

5/30/98 Devils Racecourse Shelter

18.0 miles (1033.6 total)

For some reason, the sun seemed to come out earlier today. A bunch of us were up and out by 7:30am. Too bad because I would have liked to talk with Hair Bear and his gang some more.

Early in the day we passed the first Washington Monument. Built in 1827, it was later used as a signal tower during the Civil War. The interesting thing was that it was built on the site of one of those large rock fields so they didn’t have to bring up the materials. Because it was Saturday, we saw lots of weekenders and boy scouts.

Washington Monument

Flowers a bloomin'

And once, the trail went right through someone's front yard

Smiley up ahead

Our 'Monty Python Shrine'

Most of the day was OK if not for the heat and the humidity. But as we neared the shelter trail, the trail decided to kick our butt. Lots of rocky, steep switchbacks. Smiley, Piper and I had to make frequent stops. And to top it off, the shelter is down about half back down the hill we just went up. Had some boy scouts that wanted to use the shelter but there wasn’t room for them all so they had to tent.

5/29/98 Dahlgren Camping Area

17.1 miles (1015.6 total)

After having breakfast with Veto at Cindy Dee’s Restaurant, we said our tearful goodbye. She doesn’t think she’ll be back on the trail until Monday at the earliest. Who knows when I’ll see her again. Ran into the gang down on the C&O canal towpath. They said the river camping wasn’t good because of the bugs.

Stopped by the Weaverton Cliffs for a good view of the Potomac. The trail is starting to hit more historical spots like Gathland State Park, a monument to Civil War correspondents. Ran into Hair Bear, his sisters, Lil’Engine & Talks A Lot, and his buddies, Woody & TOMIA. Hair Bear has done the trail twice in half sections. Decided to take his sisters out on the adventure.

We all ended up at Dahlgren Backpackers Camping Area, with bathrooms and hot showers. Because I’d sent my tent ahead, I took an attempt at putting up my ground cloth as a shelter using my hiking poles. By the end of the night we had 5 thru-hikers and 7 section hikers camped out. Hair Bear and Woody had backpacking guitars and gave a good concert with Piper joining in with his recorder.

Talks A Lot was telling me the anxiety she was having these first days. Like when they hitch-hiked to the store, she carried a small pocket knife for protection. TOMIA, the most out of shape of the bunch, was concerned about getting stronger. The others seemed to be adjusting better to the trail.

About 10pm, the thunder clouds moved in and I got to test my tarp technique. Result, didn’t get wet at all.

5/28/98 Harpers Ferry, WV

0 miles (998.5 total)

A very shitty day! Took one of the hostel’s bikes to head to Charles Town to get supplies - ended up taking an hour of hard, hot riding to get there. Smiley and Ghandi hitched and got there and back in an hour. Got all my boxes together and had to carry them 2-3 miles back to the post office. I just wasn’t having a good day.

"Do something crazy" she said

Never really had time to see much of Harpers Ferry except to go by the outfitters and get some frozen custard with Veto. Tried to rest this evening, eating another large pizza with Veto and watching "Gross Point Blank" on video. A lot of thruhikers came in that I hadn’t met before - The Brothers, Long Way, Groovin Moose, Tortoise & Hare just to name a few.

The boys saying goodbye to Veto

Veto’s staying in town tomorrow because her dad is coming in. Ghandi, Smiley and Piper are going to camp by the river tonight. I think I need another day off but I want to get out of Harpers Ferry. Was planning on leaving the next morning with Longstride and Samson but they decided to do some night hiking, leaving the hostel about midnight.

5/27/98 Harpers Ferry, WV

0 miles (998.5 total)

Got up way too early to catch the 7am commuter train to Washington DC. Andrew, the hostel manager, said it would take us about 30 minutes to walk to the train depot. Should have been more like 45 minutes because we got there just as it was leaving. Ghandi, Smiley, Samson, Piper and I were off for a day to see the sights, but Toolman and Longstride didn’t make it to the station in time.

The train took about 90 minutes with several stops along the way. After a quick breakfast at McDonald’s at Grand Central Station, we split into separate groups to play tourist. I went through the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum in about an hour. Seemed every kid in DC was on a field trip. I forgot that I don’t like doing the tourist thing - too much to see, too many people, too much walking, not enough time. Went over to the almost empty African Art Museum.

Met up with a few of the guys to go to the Washington Monument. Took the elevator to the top (they don’t let you take the stairs anymore), while a very bored forest ranger gave us his monologue on the monument. Couldn’t get a good look at the White House because a huge tent was out on the lawn for a garden party.

Took the train into DC for a day of sightseeing

The weather all day was cloudy and sprinkled from time to time. Headed over to the Vietnam Memorial before heading to the National Museum of Art. Much to my continued disappointment with this trip to DC, ¼ of the museum was closed, including most of the 18th-19th century collection, due to construction. I was glad when we met up to head back to the station. Just like this morning though, we had to run to catch our train.

Back at the hostel, we listened to Toolman’s lament about missing the train and said hello to Veto who’d arrived today. Again, we stayed up way too late, drinking beer and telling stories. But I did decide to try my bag cover.

5/26/98 Harpers Ferry, WV

12.4 miles (998.5 total)

Got a late start out of the hostel, but too early to use the solar-heated shower. Getting to think we might be seeing those Pennsylvania rocks a little early. More rocks today but who cares, we’re off to Harper’s Ferry. We ran into Tucker just before we crossed the Shenandoah River. She’s southbounding a section after getting off the trail for a job interview (she didn’t get the job).

Meeting up with Tucker

Once we got to the West Virginia side of the river, we took a detour to the post office. The ATC office is a short distance from the post office but we stopped at "King’s Pizzeria" first for one of the largest pizzas I’d ever seen. Smiley assures me that it was pretty close to NY style.

Crossing the Shenandoah River

At the ATC, I became the 55th thru-hiker to make it to Harper’s Ferry this year. Keisha, a very beautiful new employee at ATC, had everyone in a stupor. We’ve been out on the trail too long. Unfortunately for us, the ATH was another two to three miles from the ATC. So we gathered up our packs and boxes and headed out down the C&O Canal towpath, then up a long road walk to the hostel.

No one was there, so like most thruhikers, we made ourselves at home. Decided to tent out back to save some money, and because it wasn’t supposed to rain. The only other person in the hostel was Ben, from Britain, going to school in Canada, headed for a summer job in Minnesota, in Harper’s Ferry to see the sights. Most of us had a late night with many beers.

Messenger, Ghandi, DB, Smiley, Ben & Longstride chow down

5/25/98 Blackburn Trail Center

17.3 miles (986.1 total)

Lots of rain and thunder but luckily no hail last night. The first part of the trail was real muddy - fell once. And because of the rain, the humidity was high. The guidebook describes the next 18 miles as "a roller-coaster" with 17 small ascents totaling about 5000 feet.

Just a walk in the woods

As the day got hotter, those ascents became a lot more difficult. Climbing up towards Crescent Rock, I almost passed out because of the heat. Took a short break there with Messenger who said the forecast was for afternoon thundershowers. Lucky for me, after a few short climbs the clouds rolled in and the temperature dropped. The worst thing about the trail all day was how rocky (small boulders) it was. Before we’d have to cross short rocky sections, now we occasionally crossed short non-rocky sections. The secret was to boulder hop in order not to sprain your ankle.

Yes, the trail goes over all those rocks

Caught up to Messenger (who passed me as I was getting water) about a mile before the Blackburn AT Center. The ridge had been pretty level but still had too many rocks. We made good time considering the storm threat. On the way down to the hostel, we passed several day hikers. Once at the Center, we were a little unsure what to do because the caretaker was gone. The day hikers came down and started asking us questions about the AT and our thru-hike. Before you know it, they were taking us into town to buy beer and ice cream.

More mountain laurel lining the trail

After stopping at the store, Kevin said he needed to stop by his parents. Who were we to argue. Kevin’s parents arrived just after us and after an afternoon ride on the motorcycle. Sandi described herself as a gypsy-hippie. And Larry was a carpenter, just like his son, Kevin. They worked locally but also did work for an architect that built one-of-a-kind homes all over the country, called Jersey Devil Architecture.

After we’d been there awhile talking, Sandi insisted we stay for dinner. "I hope you don’t mind no meat because I’m a vegetarian", she said. To that, both Messenger and I replied "Us too!". We all sat out in the back yard eating an incredible beans-rice-burrito dinner with fresh greens and tomatoes.

By time we got back to the hostel, it was almost 10pm. Besides most of the people from last night’s shelter, we caught up to Toolman and Samson. Said hello to the caretaker, had one more beer and finally went to bed.

5/24/98 Rod Hollow Shelter

13.4 miles (968.3 total)

For some reason I was up early. I had eaten and started packing before Ghandi, Smiley and Piper had even woke up. I guess I just wanted to be on the trail before the scout troop.

More rain this morning. While yesterday was so peaceful walking through the forest, today was oppressive because of the overcast skies and the thick brush we had to go through. But the trail was pretty easy, lots of twists and turns, and few rocks. Got to Dick’s Dome shelter, a geodesic dome, by 10am. I was expecting a nice structure but this one, while novel, was poorly designed. Took off with the idea of stopping by the Blue Ridge Restaurant at the 10 mile mark around lunch time.

The lush forest with my ever present trail ahead

Passed hoards of weekend hikers. Here we’ve had the trail all to ourselves for three months, and now we’re being overcrowded with day hikers and weekenders. Once I got to US-60, I soon got discouraged trying to hitch. About when I was to give up, a couple coming back from church gave me a lift. They were surprised I only needed to go a mile. Had a grilled cheese and fries from a waitress that had been having a bad morning but now I was her only customer.

Sometimes you hopped rock to rock,
trying not to twist an ankle

Waited for the others to arrive but left when it got late. Again, I tried hitching for 10 minutes and gave up. As I walked back to the trail, I stuck my hand out anyway and just like before, I was picked up in minutes. The sun came out on a few very rare occasions but no more rain.

Given our luck with weekenders so far, you can imagine my surprise to see only Smiley and Piper at the shelter. Besides Ghandi and myself, Messenger and Never Quit showed up, with Longstride coming in last. So much to our delight, the shelter is full of only thruhikers. Gave Never Quit a massage because he’d had a nasty fall several days ago and his back was full of knots. Now we’re all getting ready for bed as the thunderstorm finally arrives. It’s off to the Blackburn AT Center, with its free hostel tomorrow. Hope the hike is better than the profile shows, 17 miles with a lot of ups and downs.

5/23/98 Manassas Gap Shelter

10.8 miles (954.9 total)

Drank way too much last night. Moondaddie has 4 friends that drove down for the weekend to hike. We crammed 12 people into 2 rooms. Kevin even showed up late. I ended up sleeping on the floor. Wasn’t really that bad until someone turned on the air conditioning. Sometime in the early hours, a very drunk Longstride came into the room, stepped over me and jumped on the bed to give Veto a kiss and a hickey.

This morning we did pretty good at getting everything done for every body: laundry, groceries, breakfast . Found the "Good Thyme" health food store between the laundry and regular store. Stuff in bulk and everything. Finally found some dehydrated refried beans. About noon we were all ready to head for the trail.

All morning, the sky stayed grey with occasional rain. As we unloaded the cars, we got a glimpse of how the weekend (and maybe the summer) on the trail was going to be - just ahead of us were about 20 boy scouts, plus a couple of weekenders.

'Crazy' hikers!

The first thing we see on the trail is a sign "NO TRESPASSING, VIOLATORS WILL BE EATEN". For the first couple miles, we hiked along the fence of the National Zoo Compound but the only animals we saw were some African donkeys.

A lot of this trail was severely overgrown but fairly easy hiking. As the sun finally came out, the trail also became clear. Made the 5 miles to the shelter in less than 2 hours. When I got there, the shelter was already full of weekenders, with a few even tenting. The only thru-hiker was Messenger. Didn’t take much to convince me to move on to the next shelter. The last couple of miles to Manassas Gap shelter were a little more difficult. Guess the trail can’t get too easy.

Smiley arrived first at a shelter already full of more boy scouts. The kids were tenting but the adults had the shelter. We ended up off a side trail. Finding places flat and clear enough of rocks is just about impossible. After going back to use the privy and get water, I’m kind of glad there wasn’t room in the shelter. Veto ended up staying with Moondaddie at the last shelter. Her dad is meeting her at Harper’s Ferry on Friday so she can afford to slow down. Brian, one of the weekenders came to visit us because he couldn’t take the scouts all night.

5/22/98 Front Royal, VA

13.6 miles (944.1 total)

The older hikers thought it was funny to crow like a rooster at the top of their lungs at 6am - me, I just thought they were ass-holes. Sometimes as a thruhiker, I get pretty intolerant of people just out for a couple of days. For them, it’s a vacation. To me, the trail is home.

Veto on our last day in the Shenandoah's

Started out as a clear day. Just like usual, this close to town, I took off. My feet still hurt like hell but I still made very good time. Got to the highway to Front Royal around 1pm and only took 5 minutes to get a hitch. I thought Front Royal would be a quaint laid back town but it’s just like any bigger town, lots of cars, rude people and every thing is too far apart.

5/21/89 Gravel Springs Hut

20.2 miles (930.5 total)

Woke up late this morning with overcast skies and little sprinkles. Took our first break at a "day" shelter with a pair of photogenic mice. One ran here and there while his buddy just checked us out. He let us get within inches to take his picture.

This little guy was fearless

Moondaddie is not a happy camper because his feet aren’t doing so well. He’s usually the last to arrive and I guess the pain makes him very surly. During the hike down, we met several groups of day hikers. I think this is going to be a trend for the summer.

Stopped for lunch at the Panorama Restaurant. Almost, I said, almost ordered the calzone - glad I didn’t . A very sad looking meal - I miss my Minsky’s (in Kansas City). By time we were done eating, the sun was back out - guess we’re going to be hot all summer.

The longer the day went, the worse my feet felt. Three 20’s in a row is not a great idea. At one point, I found Veto soaking her feet in a stream, trying to get some pain relief. Arrived at the wayside just minutes before they closed. I couldn’t believe they didn’t have pints of vanilla ice cream and the soft serve cone machine had been turned off. So I bought 4, count them, 4 ice cream sandwiches. I told Piper that I’d love to buy beer for the guys but didn’t relish the idea of carrying it 6 miles up and over Hogback Mountain. So he offered to carry it if I bought it. And after a quick bathroom break, it was back to the trail.

Another problem with the heat is the sweat causes severe chafing down your crotch. About a mile from the wayside, the pain was getting worse with every step. When I couldn’t stand it anymore, I stopped, got out my knife and cut the mesh liner out of my shorts, without even taking them off. Within a mile I could really tell the difference.

It had been a long day and the sun was rapidly going down. I was a little worried about hiking at night, so I pushed pretty hard. Up on the mountain, the wind was extremely strong even though there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Something that’s becoming a trend as we go north is the peaks are covered with antennas and radio towers. Even though the feet hurt going up, its worse coming down. I just wanted to get to the shelter. About a mile from the side trail, I heard a crashing sound to my right and saw a black furry rump scurry back into the woods - my first bear.

Finally got to the shelter about 8pm only to find it full of a bunch of older guys out for the week. Piper and I pitched tents so the guys with tarps could squeeze into the shelter. Veto, Piper and I cooked dinner and waited for the rest of the guys to show up. As bad as my feet were, I knew Moondaddie’s must be killing him. As it got dark, I hoped they’d stopped and set up tarps on the trail. We each had a beer and we’d leave the others for the guys the next day.

About 10pm, I hear Ghandi’s voice. Sure enough, the three were making their way, slowly down the trail, flashlights bobbing. They’d cooked dinner near the wayside while they had access to water and it was still light out. Then they just took their time night hiking. Just glad it wasn’t me.

5/20/98 Mark Jewel's cabin

19.8 miles (910.5 total)

Just couldn’t sleep much this morning, so I got up early and read. Soon every one else began to wake. We’re all pretty excited because doing a 20 mile day will put us at Mark Jewel’s cabin (with his offer of showers, etc.).

I got out of camp by 7:30 and putting in a good pace. The weather today is cooler, overcast and very windy. Wonder if we’re going to get another thunderstorm. Arrived at the Big Meadows Lodge about 10:30 (8 miles/3 hours) only to find the restaurant closed for lunch and told that the wayside is a mile down the road. So here I sit writing in my journal waiting for the others.

Smiley and I walked the extra mile to the wayside for a sandwich because the lodge was closed for lunch. Spent way too much time there. I honestly thought the rest of the gang would be way ahead but when we got back to the lodge, there they were.

Taking a break with Piper

By the time we left, the sun had come out and it was getting warmer. Hiked again with Piper all the way to the next shelter. While lounging on the porch swing (a definite shelter must-have), Piper and I had a great discussion of science, religion, people and possibilities.

Didn’t leave the shelter till 4pm. Pushed fairly hard to the next lodge, Skyland. Some would think all these "waysides" would interfere with our enjoyment of the trail. But we are definitely unimpressed with the Shenandoahs’ and this park. The trail passes the Skyland stables first. Such a poor utilization of land - and it looked terrible. Had an expensive beer with Piper in the "taproom" while Veto shared a glass of wine with some Swiss tourists out on the deck. We had thought the others were stopping here before heading to Mark’s but we couldn’t wait any longer as it was getting late. Turns out they were ahead of us.

After some tough rocky but short hills, we found Mark’s cabin. But his roommates were totally against us even coming inside. Mark was mortified and kept apologizing. We were happy just to have a flat spot for our tents and the chance to do a 20 miler instead of a 26.

One weird thing happened today. As I’m walking, two older ladies out for a day hike are going the other way. "Are you one of those people hiking to New England?" When I said yes, they wanted to take my picture - but only that. No questions about who I was or where I’m from or anything. Gave me goose bumps for a while after they left.

5/19/98 Bearfence Mountain Hut

20.9 miles (890.5 total)

Because we were planning a 20 miler in this heat, we were up at the crack of dawn. Veto and I left by 7am. Again, the trail still goes up and down, but its pretty easy. Saw several rabbits this morning.

About a mile before the first shelter, I found Veto, Smiley and Moondaddie talking to Mark Jewel, trail angel extraordinaire. He had a few cokes, pretzels and brownies. He’s working interviewing hikers for the park service and would have had more goodies but today is his day off. He’s going to slack those guys and says to stop by his cabin tomorrow if we get a chance.

Some days it was just a joy to be ambling down the trail

Cooked dinner (for lunch) at Hightop Hut and will probably just snack tonight. It was hard to eat the whole thing. Now, just 12 more miles to go today.

The afternoon proved to be harder than expected because of the heat and a long steady incline. One of my few thoughts centered on a pint of ice cream that I was going to buy at the camp store. I’m not sure if its that we are getting numb to the views we see from the mountains, or if the heat, moisture and pollution take all the luster away.

Stopped at the picnic area for the chance to rest my feet and to practice the penny whistle. As I got back on the trail, Piper joined me for the last stretch. We talked about this and that, but we got excited talking about our future trips - me, my bike trips along the Pacific coast and of Europe, and Piper about a motorcycle trip to discover the west.

We arrived at the camp store about 6:30, an hour after it closed. Veto walked towards us, sack in hand. "I got there just in time to buy a six pack and some chips." The three of us then headed the mile further down the trail to the shelter. As we got there, a group already in the shelter began packing up so we could have the shelter to ourselves. We told them we had plenty of room but they said they didn’t mind tenting.

With the gang

The deer at this shelter are even more unafraid of us . Ghandi was able to get within arms reach to take a picture. Decided to eat another dinner to go with one of Veto’s beers. Afterward I was just too tired to do much of anything. As I read a little, Moondaddie told me to look outside. Near the fire pit was a raccoon looking for any food we’d dropped.

Ghandi gets up close and personal

5/18/98 Pinefield Hut

13.1 miles (869.6 total)

Carl showed up later. He’s out for a week and a regular to these local trails. Had some good stories. Had a few more deer walk into the shelter area. They just didn’t seem too concerned that we were there. We got an early start so we could beat some of the heat. The first seven miles were a breeze - some of our fastest mileage yet. But the rest of the Shenandoah's looks a little more difficult. The problem is the shelters are either too close or too far apart.

Wild flowers lining the trail in Virginia

Stopped for the afternoon at the Loft Mountain wayside snack shop for some "expensive" junk food but more important to get out of the heat and bugs. Watching the tourists has been entertaining but depressing - so many overweight people. 3pm and I need to get going - on the the next shelter.

With a good view of the Shenandoah valley

After a couple of hours rest, the afternoon hike was a joy. The humidity had gone down, there was a breeze and an added bonus if you were in the shade. Definitely the way to hike in the heat. The shelter was totally in the shade, surrounded on 2 sides by streams. Ghandi, who opted not to stop at the wayside, decided to move on to the next shelter.

Caught with the privy door open!

It’s been great hiking with Piper. I worked on "Ode to Joy" and later we played a duet. My next assignment is to sound out "Amazing Grace". As it got dark, we had numerous deer visit, just like last night’s shelter. But one unwelcome visitor was a whooperwill. Piper did some throwing rocks in its general direction in an attempt to shut it up.

5/17/98 Blackrock Hut

13.0 miles (856.5 total)

It rained all night - lots of thunder and lightning. But as we woke up, the sky was sky blue. Unfortunately, we got a late start. The trail was wide, smooth and not too strenuous but the heat and humidity made it tough. Came upon a pretty tame deer, almost within 5 feet of me. Had another one walk up to the shelter. Piper wrote out "Ode to Joy" for me and we did some duets.

Couldn't believe a deer let me get this close

5/16/98 Calf Mountain Shelter

6.9 miles (843.5 total)

6am, and I was out and on my way to Weasies. Last night a bunch of us went to the movies (Deep Impact ). As soon as we walked in they asked where we were from. We couldn’t understand how they knew we were hikers. After the movies, I crashed, while most everyone stayed up for a few beers.

Spent most of the day mailing packages and getting food. Almost didn’t make it to the post office - had to run half way from the Y. Lucky for me, Tucker’s parents were here and gave me a lift back for my pack and to UPS. Met up with Veto and headed for lunch at Weasies. Found Billygoat and Lone Bear already there. Veto was able to smooze a ride for us all to the outfitter. They helped me with my new Dana. Hitching took only seconds, believe it or not, a mother with a minivan.

Soap Box Derby time in Waynesboro

Stopped for a quick break at Howard Johnson’s. I had to drag Veto to the trail, she was having thoughts of staying another night.

No sooner had we got on the trail, when we found Ghandi, there resting, dead center in the trail. We stopped at the ranger station to get our permits. The trail was not too bad, especially since I have my poles back. Kind of a hot hike to the shelter. Got here to find it mostly packed. Moondaddie was there, along with Lone Bear, Samson, Bird, Owl and 2 weekenders. Piper, Ghandi, Veto, and Smiley came last. But its evening now and a thunderstorm is raging outside. Probably will do a 13 miler tomorrow.

Ghandi had a habit of taking his breaks "on" the trail

5/15/98 Waynesboro, VA

0 miles (836.6 total)

Woke up early to head off to "Weasies" for all-you-can-eat pancakes. I wasn’t even going to try and beat the record of 22. Billygoat decided not to leave today, especially with Veto, Ghandi and Smiley coming to town. So we decided to use his pack anyway to get a hitch to the outfitters. Within minutes, Jordan, a section hiker, took us to Rockfish Gap Outfitters and told us he’d wait and take us back to the Y. Again, the kindness of strangers to out of their way to help is sometimes overwhelming.

Got back to the Y, just as the "slackers" arrived. While everyone had errands to do, we all decided to see a movie tonight. Got my new pack from Backwoods but no owners manual to set up the suspension system. When I called Keith long distance, he didn’t understand my irritation. I did get my Leki poles but at a cost of $28 from the Mount Rogers Outfitters. And to top it off, they repaired it with used parts - seems like a scam to me since Leki authorized the repair.

All in all, I got 5 packages. The postal workers were curious how I’d carry it all the way to the Y. I managed but just barely. Tried to find a good place to write in the journal without much luck. Lots of walking later, I stopped by "Haney’s" for a milkshake - mmmmm good. And who should show up but Veto and Moondaddie. Seems he arrived at Rusty’s today and hitched into town to get his replacement pack. But it wasn’t here - that makes 4 different maildrop locations. He’s got the Virginia Blues big time. Says he might skip this section completely.

5/14/98 Waynesboro, VA

18.1 miles (836.6 total)

Other than Delilah barking all night and bugs dining on all my available skin, I slept pretty good. Rusty was up at the crack of dawn to tend the chickens and the goats. Seems, Rusty bought this place in 1980 and started taking hikers in 1982 as an alternative to Waynesboro. So far, he figures about 9000 people have stayed at his place since then. There’s no phone, no electricity, the lamps are kerosene, has a rain water shower (very cold!), and a wood burning kitchen stove. Says he’s lived this way since he was sixteen. He’s cut himself from all the modern, especially electronic world. But for all that he’s well informed (found Kiplinger’s and Time on his coffee table). He says he hasn’t hiked the trail, but the trail has come to him in the form of hikers. His nephew Spicoli lives here fixing up Volkswagens and I guess has a new job with the forest service.

Alternative to Waynesboro

Everyone hanging out at Rusty's Hard Time Hollow
That's Rusty sitting just past the door

At one point, we spotted several people watching the house from the road. Turns out it was a NBC News crew. Various media have wanted to do a story on him but he always refuses. People either hear about his place by word of mouth, or from the business cards his friends put in the shelters. He had his information taken out of the guidebooks because of its ties to the "internet".

Lots to see in the privy

Ghandi, Smiley, Veto, DB, Samson on Rusty's ceiling
Earl Schaffer (bottom right) was the 1st thruhiker 50 years ago

Veto, Smiley and Ghandi were going to slackpack south from Waynesboro with Buck giving them the shuttle ride. This was so they could stay one more night at Rusty’s. Samson was taking the day off, doing a few chores to pay his way. But ever the purest, I put my pack on and headed back to the trail where I got off.

Usually the trail went up and over any obstacle
instead of around, especially rocks like these

While it was clear as a bell at Rusty’s, Morpin shelter was in a dense fog. Slowly, as the morning miles passed under foot, it got clearer and hotter and muggier. The trail was fairly level but again like yesterday, miles of difficult rock trail. Add to all that, the bugs were pretty thick. I was surprised when I discovered I’d done the first 7.8 miles in 3 hours.

But as the day went on, I began losing steam. To make matters worse, I got lost. Someone failed to remove some white blazes from an old route, and I tried to follow. After bushwacking for 15 minutes, I decided I was lost. The maps are useless, so I ended up guessing where the trail I’d left was. Found it with not much trouble but lost some time.

Found Veto and Ghandi at the "Rocks". After talking with them, I moved with a little more fatigue the 2 ½ miles to the next shelter. Seems weird to make such a large shelter so close to a town. Ended up walking the last 5 miles in under 2 hours, but dead tired.

The town was one of the largest 'almost' on the Appalachian Trail and the road towards it was a very busy highway. I stood hitch-hiking at rush-hour for a while. This was not the kind of traffic to stop for a hot-odoriferous-tired-hiker. As I gave up, I heard a loud truck noise come up from behind me. I turned just as a beat-up pick-up truck pull in front of me. Inside were 3, clearly blue-collar guys getting off work from some dirty, dull job. "Where'ya headed?" the driver leaned over his other two companions. "The YMCA." "Hop in."

I've got a heavy backpack on and I try to climb into the bed of the truck. But before I actually get in, the truck takes off. I slam against the side of the truck bed - and it MOVES! All of a sudden, I'm scared. This is a city-boy's nightmare in the back of some redneck's rusted-out-truck. The truck takes a turns in town WAY TOO FAST and I fly across the bed of the truck bed. 'Where am I going!' and 'I am in trouble!" keep going through my mind. The truck never really stops, and I'm not given enough time to respond to any thing that is going on. All of a sudden, we stop as I'm slammed forward. I look around and see a wooded area and some non-descript buildings and thank god I'm still in town but terrified about what happens next.

I jump out, thankful that I'm not riding with these guys and then, because I'm on the driver's side now, he asks where I'm coming from. "I'm hiking the Appalachian Trail, the whole thing."

"Good luck," he says, pauses as we look at each other eye-to-eye, and then he takes off. A kindred spirit? Even now, I don't know if his eyes said envy or longing. Not sure how his 'buddies' felt, but all of a sudden I felt a connection to the driver that said "you are safe." As they drove off, I started to walk around the nondescript buildings that turned out to be the YMCA, just like I had requested.

After setting my tent in a park near by set up just for thruhikers, I took that much needed shower. Turns out Billygoat is here too. So both of us took off to do laundry and eat pizza. I carried his clothes back to the Y, while he stopped by the store to get us some ice cream. We sat up in the lights of the factory across the river and talked till late. Even though this town is too spread out, I’m grateful for the company on a rainless night.

5/13/98 Rusty's

13.7 miles (818.5 total)

The next morning, we awoke to dense fog, again. But with Veto leading the way, we got one of my earlier starts: 7:30am. While climbing up Priest Mountain, the sun was trying its darndest to punch through the mist. At one point, I saw a halo of blue around the sun, but it only lasted a few seconds. Seemed like another gloomy day of hiking. The climb down was long but with enough switchbacks to make it comfortable.

Becky and Wanda ran the funnest store/post office on the AT

Once down to the road, I stuck my thumb out for the 1 ½ mile hitch into Tyro, VA. Within seconds, I mean less than 30 seconds, the first car by picked me up. Her husband ran a campground 3 miles the other way on the road, so she was used to hikers. She was on her way to work. Knew exactly where to drop me off - the C &C Grocery store (and post office). Becky and Wanda were the nicest store owners I’ve ever met on the trail. They were so happy, they almost had the giggles. I bought a pint of Ben & Jerry’s and waited for Veto to get here (she’s walking instead of hitching).

She couldn’t figure out how I passed her. As she ate her Ben & Jerry’s, and opened her mail (she got a fleece shirt and a good book to read from a friend), the mist started to break up. By the time Ghandi arrived, a good portion of blue sky was above and the temperature was rising. Tyro basically is the store. So I stood out front by the "Tyro" sign with my thumb out again. I always wave at the people that pass me by. After a few minutes, a guy going the other way pulls in, "Hop in." "I’m headed back to the Appalachian Trail" I said pointing the other direction. He said, "I know". Ghandi and Veto jumped in right after me, as he drove back to drop us off at the trail.

Crossed another hiker suspension bridge across the river Tye. From there it was another hike up out of the river valley. By now, its almost all blue sky and getting warmer. The climb was steady up to the next shelter, about half way up the mountain. What a pleasant surprise to use a brand new privy - with a clear plastic roof and everything. So special, I had to take a picture.

Ghandi and Veto cross the Tye River bridge

After a quick lunch, it was back to climbing the mountain. Soon the terrain became some of the most difficult in recent memory because of so much rock. Thought I had finished the climb at Chimney Rock, but when I came around the corner, there was another peak ahead. So up again towards Three Ridges.

My vote for best privy!

The disappointment was it was shrouded in clouds. No views again! On the way down, Veto and Samson had found a good rock overhang to take a break. It gave us good views of Priest Mountain and the Tye river valley. But Three Ridges still was covered in the clouds. Finally headed down toward the next shelter 2 miles away. By now its getting down right hot. I’m sweating like a pig. Lots of grassy areas near the shelter. Hope there’s more like that up ahead. And I just had to use another brand new privy before heading to Rusty’s.

Veto, Samson & Delilah take a break on Three Ridges
with an obscured view of the Priest in the background

The walk to Rusty’s included a 1 mile forest road walk and 1 ½ mile walk along the Blue Ridge Parkway. My feet were pretty sore when we finally saw "Rusty’s" on a pipe gate on this dirt access road. Walked our way down to the compound, reading signs tacked to the trees.

Went up to the main building and Rusty’s taking a rest. Rusty looks about 60, long blond beard - looks like a farmer. "My home is your home" he says. Almost every available wall and ceiling space is covered with pictures of everyone who has come through here. This place is very unique. The privy looks like a phone booth. Plus there is a fire plug for pissing, and a urinal out in the back yard. The cola’s are stored in the spring house.

The highlight of the evening was the wood fired hot tub. Definitely cures what ails you. A few people headed for Trail Days stopped by. One guy drove all the way back to Waynesboro to get pizza. So proceeded to stuff myself just before bed. Talked with Buck and Snickers while in the hot tub about their upcoming Europe bike trip. The best thing about the day was when Smiley showed up. His feet were sore but he was in very good spirits.

5/12/98 The Priest Shelter

22.7 miles (804.8 total)

Last night about 9pm, a lone hiker shows up. It’s dark and we can just barely make him out. "You thru-hiking?" "Yeah" "How far did you go today?" "35 miles". Thus was our introduction to Ben. He was a high school student who got to graduate early so he could thruhike the AT. He said he’d started out like everyone else, carrying 50 lbs. and only walking 8 miles. But he soon adopted the "ultralight" motto. Now he’s down to a day pack with 12 lbs of gear, running shoes and is doing 30+ miles per day at an unbelievable pace of 3-4 mph. He started April 1st and at this rate he’ll finish in early July. Says he has no deadline, just likes to hike. Turns out Ghandi met him last year while hiking the Long Trail. One nice thing about his speed was he could tell us about long lost friends behind us. Sure hope at this pace he has some fun.

This morning it started to rain just as we left the shelter. Ghandi and I stopped off for a little junk food at a store near the trail. Some good ol’boys who were out turkey hunting gave us a ride back to the trail. Then we started another long climb out of the valley. It figures that when I’m rationing film and it’s raining, I’d come across at least four new flowers I hadn’t seen before. One I just had to photograph was a large orchid-like pink flower on a 4 foot tall woody stalk. Beautiful!

Really not a hard climb like yesterday . Sitting here at Cow Camp Gap shelter, eating lunch, as the sun looks like it might come out.

The sun never did make an appearance. Every once in awhile, it would get brighter but we never could see the sky. When I finished my lunch break, I met Ghandi, Veto, Smiley and Billygoat after walking the ½ mile approach trail. Veto said "foolish boy". She had a good idea of doing a 22 today so that would put us in Waynesboro on Thursday. That would make the whole post office/backpack thing easier. So I had a mission! I hauled ass.

A lone hiker ahead in the fog and rain

When following Billygoat, we averaged 2.8 miles/hour. I surged ahead and arrived at the next shelter by 4pm. At the shelter, there was a group of 3 high school kids doing a 3 week AT trip for a high school project. They were really interested in wildlife, especially bears. The other people we met today were the Renaultys from Texas. The cool thing was SAM - Surface-to-Air Missile, who we figure to be about 8 years old, was thru-hiking with them. They were flip flopping to give them more time.

We stored up quick at the shelter and headed out for another 6.9 miles. The terrain was steeper and the weather nastier but we made it by 7:30pm. What surprised me was Billygoat was the second person in. He’d done a 27 mile day. Everyone got here but Smiley - I hope he’s doing OK.

5/11/98 Brown Mtn Creek Shelter

17.7 miles (782.1 total)

Didn’t sleep well last night, so I guess I didn’t mind it too much when Toolman and Longstride got up at 6am. They left by 7am and we left by 9:30. After a solid hour of climbing, I stopped at Fullers Rocks Overlook. I thought I was done climbing but there was another 30 minutes UP!

By the time I got up to Big Rocky Row Overlook, I was in the clouds. Although it sprinkled a little up on the ridge, I’m sure it was raining down in the James River Valley.

View of the James River after a long climb

Punchbowl Shelter was a little of a disappointment. I walked down to the pond for those "National Geographic" views but only saw a bullfrog and a snake. Samson & Delilah were leaving just as I got there. While Ghandi, Veto, Smiley and I had an early lunch, Smiley pointed out another occupied birds nest in the shelter.

Feeding time inside the Punchbowl Shelter

The rest of the day was either down or flat. The trail wound down stream of the Pedlar Dam. I was going to stop for a break but the water was pretty scummy. After climbing up around the dam, the trail winds around the Lynchburg Reservoir (drinking water). Heard a good awful noise that I thought was a sawmill but Veto and Ghandi tell me it was a special helicopter equipped with power saw to cut tree limbs away from the power lines. The last mile to the shelter followed the Brown Mountain Creek, a big "mountain" stream. Let me just say I HATE crossing one log bridges. I almost sat down to cross the first one. But it was neat to walk along the creek and see the old stone fences from a community founded by freed slaves shortly after the end of the Civil War.

The ridge itself was sometimes flat as a pool table

Again Samson was at the shelter, wanting to do a few more miles, but waiting for Ghandi. He decided he couldn’t wait any longer and took to the trail. Just minutes later Ghandi and Veto show up. Ghandi’s not going farther today. Once Smiley got here, we got to try out my "tick remover" on a little bugger on his leg. Didn’t work worth crap. He ended up using toe nail clippers.

One thing I had noticed today is that the trees are a lot bigger. One that I took a picture of was 3 ½ feet in diameter and wouldn’t fit in the picture frame.

Tomorrow’s climb out of the valley is worse than today’s. But again it follows the ridgeline until we go into Tyro for Veto’s mail drop. Then its off to Rusty’s and then Waynesboro.

5/10/98 Johns Hollow Shelter

17.4 miles (764.4 total)

Got up this morning and said our good-byes to Kevin, Cliff, John and Henry. The plan was to hike 12 miles to the next shelter with a side trip to the Devils Marble Yard. Yesterday I was photographing a single trillium while today I passed whole hillsides of them. Besides, the rhododendron blooms, the mountain laurels are close to blooming. Coming down the path, I saw my first woodchuck. It was the size of a small dog. He looked at me for a second while crossing the trail, then he took off for the woods.

Wading through meadows of trilliums

A pretty easy hike all day to the Belfast trail. It was covered with blowdowns. I still wanted to see Devils Marble Yard so I took my jacket, camera and water and tried to go the 1½ miles. I didn’t get ¼ mile when I decided the blowdowns were many and getting harder to get around. Funny thing was, the AT the last 3 miles to the shelter had quite a few blowdowns itself.

The trail wound it's way through Virginia

The Matt’s Creek shelter is in a nice location. The bridge crosses a good size creek that the rocks funnel into "human" sized chutes. Almost stepped on a brown-yellow stripped snake - scared me to death! But I still watched him hunt for a while. And took pictures of butterflies and skinks that let me approach before taking off. Waited for awhile for Veto to show up.

It was so early, we decided to hitch into Glasgow for supplies, something to eat, and to call our moms for Mother’s Day. As we got closer to the James River, the mountain laurel were in full bloom. Ended up waiting over 30 minutes for the 8 mile hitch into town.

Bought way too much junk food. Then headed across the street to the Blue Ridge Restaurant. After a fine meal of an egg sandwich and 2 grilled cheese, I called mom. The restaurant’s owner, Dan, has another business in Buena Vista which is frequented by hikers. He offered us a ride as an excuse to get out of the kitchen.

Almost missed the blooming of the rhododendrons

As soon as we got back on the trail, we ran into Lyle, a truck driver from Illinois who’d just dropped off Toolman and Longstride. Turns out Lyle’s girlfriend did the AT thruhike about 10 years ago.

Finally made it to the shelter, still carrying grocery bags of stuff that didn’t fit in the pack. Besides Toolman and Longstride, Smiley is here. He’s thinking of changing boots to try and fix his tendonitis problem.

All in all, a good day, 17.4 miles and a town stop.

5/9/98 Thunder Hill Shelter

6.4 miles (747.0 total)

No sooner had I blown my candle out, when the mice decided to use my sleeping bag to explore. After several times of jumping up to chase them off, I decided to set the tent up in the shelter. There was just enough space between the floor boards for my tent stakes. Worked perfectly and I got a good night’s sleep.

This morning after looking at the map, decided to see some sights. About 2 ½ miles down the trail was a side trail for the Apple Orchard Falls. I decided to take the one mile trail down to see it. A trail maintainer yesterday told us how hard this area was hit with the winter ice storm. Coming down this side trail I couldn’t believe the devastation - like an atom bomb or hurricane. But as bad as it looked the falls were beautiful - had to cross under the falls to get a good picture. Saw a couple of day hikers coming down as I was going up.

Wonderful stream on Apple Orchard Mountain

The goddess was kind today, mostly cloudy, but when I wanted to take a picture, the sun would peak out of the clouds. Walked on up Apple Orchard Mountain and barely saw the large radar sphere up top.

The trail goes under the "Guillotine"

Once I got to the shelter, I started to re-think my hiking schedule. Ahead, on the trail is the Devils Marble Yard, but its 1 ½ miles off the trail. Plus, the hitch to Buena Vista is supposed to be very difficult. So I decided at 11am to call it a day, do the side trip tomorrow, and get food at Glasgow on Monday. "5 miles and camp" as Ghandi would say.

So I did my best to keep busy. Practice my penny whistle, took a nap, dug out the fire pit, all while waiting for the others to catch up. Later in the afternoon, the two day-hikers I met yesterday telling me about the snake showed up - they’d driven on ahead to here. Kadiddle was the first to show up. Said he almost dropped out, "It would be so easy to hitch hike home and take a trip to Arizona". He was pushing on to tent. Ghandi showed up hiking in sandals. He was surprised to see me this time. He headed out just before Samson and Smiley arrived and Veto. While everyone was taking a short break, Cliff, a southbound section hiker also arrived. He’s a retired physics professor from PA just hiking from Waynesboro to Damascus. Some very annoying guy was just out for the day and came by and wouldn’t stop talking even though we tried to ignore him. Samson and Smiley made a quick get-away to tent on ahead. "Annoying guy" left while we were cooking. John and Henry left to eat at the lodge as we gave hints to bring back goodies.

Later, as our campfire got going, Moondaddie and Cliff discussed gems and optics. John and Henry came through, bringing us two six-packs of Miller Genuine Draft. Hit the spot! Tomorrow, Kevin heads home. Moondaddie will get a food drop and hit the trail later in the day.

5/8/98 Corneelius Creek Shelter

17.2 miles (741.6 total)

Found myself going to sleep by 8pm. This week, my shelter mates had all been surprised by my lack of snoring. Apparently I made up for it last night - and poor Smiley had to sleep next to me. I guess because we got so much sleep, everyone was up and ready to go by 8am. It had rained all night with periods of lightning and looked like it might continue.

Believe it or not, the sun did come out, at least for us. Down in the valleys, they were all blanketed by clouds. Got some good pictures of Sharp Top and Flat Top Mountains off in the Peaks of Otter area. Saw a few other good "mountain peaks above the clouds" but the leafing trees are getting in the way.

Ghandi and I hiked most of the morning together and talked. First we came upon BA Disciple, a Jahova Witness who leaves leaflet’s in the shelters. But he gave us coffee out of his beautiful VW van. At Cove Mountain shelter, some ‘angel’ left Life Savers and Jolly Rancher candies.

A break from the rain at Cove Mountain Shelter

At the Jennings Creek bridge we decided to break for lunch. A forest ranger stopped and asked us questions about ‘Peggy’. As we ate lunch, thunderstorm clouds moved in quick. Ghandi decided to make a run for the shelter 3 ½ miles away. We didn’t get 50 yards up the trail when it started raining. We made a mad dash back to the creek and waited out most of the storm under the bridge. That’s why everyone was surprised when I came hiking up after them. Just as fast as the storm moved in, it went away.

We all had to vote Bryant Ridge shelter as best of the trail so far. What a great shelter, it seemed to take the best ideas from all the other shelters and put them all into one package. Everyone decided to stay but I moved on because I need to get to Buena Vista before my food runs out, and 11.5 miles just seems too short a day.

Veto loves the new privy

But I had second, third and fourth thoughts as I climbed up out of the valley. If I’d known Floyd Mountain was going to be 4 miles up, I’d have stayed at the last shelter with everyone else. Plus the rain just upped the humidity to 100% and there seemed to be thousands of large mosquito-like bugs flying in my footsteps. A pair of older southbounders warned me about a timber rattlesnake that was reluctant to get off the trail. Never did see it but I sure looked real hard, just in case.

Got to the shelter just before 6 and it looks like I’ll be the only one here for the night. This will be my first shelter all to myself since I started 9 ½ weeks ago. Been looking at the map and I might have to tent earlier than my planned 17 miles if I do a couple of the side trails - like - Apple Orchard Falls and the Devils Marble Yard. I miss my friends tonight but I must hike my own hike.