4/30/98 Symms Gap Meadow

11.7 miles (626.9 total)

Yesterday a few more thru-hikers made it in: Backpacking Fool, Kiddle, Pied Piper, Bushrod and Crazy Old Man.com. But no Crawdad. My gut feeling was always that he’s still too far behind - but I’m ever the optimistic. Fool and I went down to the Capital Cafe for a beer. It is the only bar we saw. After 9pm, we were the only patrons. So we decided to call it an early night.

This morning I had every intention of getting an early start, but I’m not sure why, I did not. First, I had a BIG hill to climb out on after crossing the New River. Second, the first shelter was at 7 miles but the next one was another 12. Bushrod’s wife dropped me off at the Dairy Queen for breakfast and soon after I was headed for the trail. I’d gotten about half way to the bridge when I decided to take one more chance on Ol’Crawdad, and stay till after lunch. So it was one more trip to Pizza Hut’s AYCE buffet. It was weird because I hardly knew any of the hikers there.

Took off about 12:30 with the skies definitely looking like rain. Most of the climb out of the valley was in one of those hot, humid, sprinklers. But by time I reached the ridge, the wind had picked up a lot. Got to the Rice Field Shelter about 4pm. I got lonely all over again reading the register about all my friends a day ahead like Ghandi, Smiley, Samson, Veto and Chunky. I’m not going to chase them, but I’ll go steady so I might see them again before Waynesboro.

Decided I still had plenty of daylight, so the map stated that Symns Gap Meadow was about 5 miles further down the trail. No sooner had I left the shelter when I met a lone southbound woman. She said the meadow had a campsite and that was all the encouragement I needed.

Really didn’t have anymore rain, just a lot of wind. But the clouds are rumbling east of the ridge, so I’m probably going to have a storm tonight. Just like most of the balds we’ve seen before, the meadow gives me a great view of West Virginia out my tent door. Was hoping for a good sunset but the clouds had other plans. So here I sit writing in my journal. It’s been awhile since I’ve camped alone on this trip. I am hoping to create a few good habits in the coming weeks: I actually took time out today, during the rain, to practice the penny whistle. Hoping for twice a day practice. Plus I’ve started an evening stretching routine. Even did a little Tai Chi tonight (my knees protested a lot!). Will try and keep up Samson’s push-up schedule and I might add a few curls and ab work. So I better put this away and get started.

4/29/98 Pearisburg, VA

0 miles (615.2 total)

Last night was a gastronomic even of the century. First, Chunky, made a vegetarian beans-rice-vegetable burritos. Then ‘chef’ Samson made eggplant parmesan that just melted in your mouth. Some of the best food I’d had anywhere, anytime. Then Chunky brought out homemade apple pie and ice cream. I was so stuffed, thought I was going to get sick.

Lynx, Chunky, Samson, Ghandi, and DB pig out

Didn’t really sleep well last night. The 20 degree bag is like a sauna and I sweat all night. Need to call Campmor today and get a summer sleeping bag. Plus my shoes/socks are shot but I might have to wait till Waynesboro to change them. Plus I need to call Dana Designs about the numbness in my fingers. Hopefully I can last till Waynesboro to get something different.

Going to break the hospice rules and stay a 3rd night - still waiting for Ol’Crawdad to show up with my poles. If he come’s in today, I’ll be off early tomorrow. While I enjoy the time off in town, the trail seems to be more contentful.

Well, this is the end of two months on the trail In summary, the trip has been different than I expected but so much better I can’t begin to put a value on the things I’ve done, places I’ve seen, or the great people I’ve met. It was sad saying good bye to a few today while I wait for my poles. Veto, Ghandi, Samson & Delilah, Smiley, Mountain Man, Longstride, Ol’Crawdad, Mighty Wind, Naked Dog, Blazzing Bunnions, tAToo, and Brother’s Johnson (just to name a few) are part of my "family" - I miss them like brothers and sisters - share in their happiness and their pain. We’ve all endured something special that will bind us forever.

On to Troutville......

4/28/98 Pearisburg, VA

0 miles (615.2 total)

The hostel is a converted barn in the back of the church. It has a covered pavilion and looks on to wild brush-land on all sides. It has a shower, bathroom, kitchen and a loft for nine hikers. Below is a reading room with the wood stove. Bill, the caretaker, is a kind-of-a-grumpy old guy but really friendly. He says the church has been running the hospice since 1977 but the current pastor is just not a hiker person. Bill has been working hard to fix the outside up because it’s to be sold in a year or two. I would hope they keep it open for hikers.

The Holy Family Hostel was the only hostel
run by a catholic church along the trail

It was a converted barn

Spent most of the day doing town chores like laundry, mail and groceries. Chris, the assistant manager at Pizza Hut, gave us a hiker discount on the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. Just don’t know what he was thinking. We had about 10 of us and we put a big dent in stock. The funny thing about mail is not getting much. The cards and letters get fewer and fewer, the longer I’m away from home. Pat (Give Me Chocolate) has been the best, with a post card in every mail drop.

4/27/98 Pearisburg, VA

22.4 miles (615.2 total)

The original plan was to do 15 miles to Doc’s Knob Shelter. But the trail was so nice and we made such good time, I really thought 23 miles into town might be possible. Veto and I hiked most of the time together. By time we reached Doc’s Knob Shelter, the temperature had really dropped. Add the on/off again rain-fog-mist. I just didn’t want to stay in a cold shelter. So we began to eat all of our snack food as fast as we could. Then took off while Smiley stayed to cook a hot meal.

A long 23 mile day hiking with Veto

The trail continued to be relatively easy and fast - until! We’re going along. Then all of a sudden have a right hand turn straight up. A long climb up loose gravel - what fun. But once up, we were on the ridgeline again. The only thing that slowed us down was the large rocks on the trial. It didn’t seem to matter how big and flat they were, when you least expected it, they moved. So you really had to be careful. The sun started to peak out even though the valley was still shrouded in clouds. Then, just before we were to descend down the mountain, the clouds blew away and we saw Pearisburg. A teaming metropolis compared to all the other cities we’ve been in so far.

The clouds broke and got our first view of Pearisburg

We started the long climb down from "Angels Rest" on Pearis Mountain. By this time, Veto and my feet were starting to get really sore. We’d gone over 20 miles today. I was hoping the blister on my heel would be OK for a few more miles. And we started going down, down, down. After awhile, my knees were in complete agony. Veto and I seemed to be delirious because of the pain, making jokes, saying funny things and generally being silly. 2½ miles down. The bright side was the incredible plant-life as you got lower in elevation. Lots of green flowers in bloom, others coming up. Even got scratched by some wild rose bushes. Then all of a sudden, the trail emptied out into someone’s back yard. At first, we thought we’d somehow got off the trail, but at the street curb was an Appalachian Trail sign.

Got out the guide book and started to hitchhike to the catholic church hospice. Unfortunately the road was not busy this time of night, about 8pm on a weekday. We’d probably walked another ½ mile uphill before someone picked us up. Steve was running an errand but would be glad to give us a ride to the hospice. When Veto mentioned Dairy Queen, he offered to drop us off while he did his other shopping. I was very reluctant to leave our packs in the back of the truck but he said he’d be right back. One "large" Blizzard later, he whisked us across town to the church.

Layers and Godspeed were surprised to see us. Moondaddie and Toolman were there and Longstride arrived after us. Poor Smiley didn’t reach town till after dark, so he walked the whole way to the hospice. I was so sore I could barely walk. Took a shower and that was about it. I didn’t even eat any diner. But with all the good friends, we ended up talking late into the night near the wood burning stove.

4/26/98 Dismal Creek Falls

17.6 miles (592.8 total)

The trail wasn’t bad, made good time to Jenny Knob Shelter. Had a hot lunch of ramen’s. Decided that I’ll take a mid-morning/mid-afternoon break and practice the penny whistle. Plus I’m getting my Spanish phrase book. Things are going to be different now.

The day proceeded to get warmer as we descended toward Kumberling Creek. The hard ground was beginning to take its toll on my feet. The suspension bridge across the creek was nice. Got to the road and headed for Trent’s Grocery. I spent way too much money. Walked in, bought a Gaterade, then a Three Muskateers, then a Klondike ice cream bar. Then to go, I bought a big bag of Dorito’s, a big box of Oreo’s and a 16 oz. Budweiser. I was a funny sight walking down the trail with a bag of chips in my hand (so they wouldn’t be crushed).

Wonderful hiker bridge

By the time we reached the Dismal Falls Trail, I was dead tired. Lucky for us the approach trail was pretty level, if a little long. The falls were great. You could tell the place was a big hangout - especially since the road was so close. We set up camp after a few local teenagers finally left. That Budweiser tasted so good for dinner. We all sat munching on all the stuff we bought at Trent’s. It was Samson, Veto, Smiley and me. But we weren’t surprised when Ghandi strolled in at dusk. Shortly thereafter, Longstride arrived. He told a great story about coming across Ghandi earlier. All he saw was Ghandi’s legs right on the trial. He literally had to step over him to continue walking.

Longstride is 6'6" standing next to Dismal Falls

4/25/98 Helveys Mill Shelter

17.1 miles (575.2 total)

The campsite is literally built in the middle of the ridge slope

Got up early because of the town stop in Bland, VA. Was out of camp by 8 AM. Most of the morning was pretty warm. Jenkins Shelter has a painted mural on the privy - someone with too much time on their hands. Had many-many water crossings of Little Wolf Creek. Got my boots wet a lot but only fell on my butt once. Finally gave up and put on my sandals. Veto and I walked together for awhile. She and I have a similar hiking speed. We talked about how hard it
is to keep up with everyone.

Veto filtering water, one of our daily tasks

At Laurel Creek, Samson and Smiley took a swim in the falls below the bridge. It was seven more miles to town, so I kept going. Met Wezzer and Wild Flower, two week section hikers. We both kept a close watch on the controlled burn on the opposite ridge. The sheriff ended up giving us a lift into Dairy Queen - mmmmmm - can you say "blizzard"? Got a fairly quick lift to the store by a man of few words.

Forest fire

But, I’ll remember Bland because of Jim and Louise. He’s a Harley owner. He drove us by his house just to see his "limited edition" Datona. It looked very nice - Louise said he’d better keep it nice after all the money he spent on it. Said they pick hiker’s up all the time - even had a register in their car. Had a steep climb up to the shelter, with the extra food I bought. The whole gang is here tonight; Smiley, Samson, Ghandi, Veto, Longstride, Chunky, Straight Away, Godspeed, & Layers. I really need to enjoy myself more!

Had to re-supply in Bland, VA

4/24/98 Davis Farm Campsite

16.2 miles (558.1 total)

Long Stride made a late arrival. Veto, Godspeed and Layers got taken in by a farmer during the storms. Long Stride told me Ol’Crawdad is probably two days behind - I really want my poles! A good thing it didn’t rain because the shelter was full and Long Stride slept out by the picnic table.

I could follow this beauty for hundreds of miles

Today was a day with views. After an incredibly long climb up to Chestnut Ridge, we could really see how the terrain is changing. The valley to our right was wide and extended as far as the eye could see in either direction. The ridge was too windy to hang out. But the views from the shelter were great. You could tell it was windy up here because the roof was attached with cables, to keep it from flying away.

Longstride takes shelter from the winds

The valley below was an american classic painting. The valley down below is called Burke’s Garden, which is a large natural geological depression known as "God’s Thumbprint." The whole valley is surrounded by ridgeline. As we walked along the ridge we had great views after great views. We ended up camping at the Davis Farm campsite about halfway down the ridge. We just kept taking pictures - it was so cool!

God's Thumbprint is a circular depression in the mountains
There are only 2 roads into the valley

We now have a crowd. Smiley, Samson and I are tenting while Ghandi, Veto, Layers and Godspeed are just going to do it without tents tonight. Tomorrow I head into Bland for food, I’m out of breakfast and snack stuff. Plus a nice dinner would be OK. They also have a Dairy Queen.

Chunky on one of the many lookouts

4/23/98 Knot Maul Branch Shelter

11.3 miles (541.9 total)

Samson received his backpacker oven in Atkins, so he cooked up cinnamon rolls for breakfast - Mmmm! Headed out a little chilly this morning. We had sun most of the morning but the sky was always threatening. We crossed one valley floor that was so spectacular. I can’t put it in words. The pictures just won’t do it justice. Samson said it was like Montana "big sky" country. It was just the combination of rolling green hills, farms, the almost fall colors of the forests and sky. If it had been a little warmer, I would have stayed there all afternoon.

Samson and Delihla on the trail

Everyone loved Delihla, the most gentle dog on the trail

The only other therapists I met on the trail
Blazing Bunions is a speech pathologist
and tAToo is an occupational therapist

Had a lot of Kenya reminders, the wet soil, cow manure smell, and locust trees. Talked to a few lady’s fishing for "horny-heads" in the North Fork of the Holston river. One laughed when she said "did I break your camera?" when I took her picture. After passing Smiley and Samson, it started to rain on and off. Not really bad except when the wind started to blow.

If I was a painter...

Came into camp with a large group of kids already there. Nine boys and two counselors from a camp for kids at risk are out on the trail for a month. So far they’re only been out for four days. They all seem pretty well behaved. So we have 4 to 5 tents up and the shelters full, and that’s without Biz and the dogs, and Smiley and Samson went on too. The sun finally broke up the thunderstorm but its still a little chilly. It’s been fun talking to tAToo about work - students, medicare, etc. He’s taking it easy to Pearisburg so his tendinitis has a chance to get better. Not really sure what to do tomorrow as far as mileage.

4/22/98 Davis Path Shelter

14.4 miles (530.6 total)

Woke up to the patter of rain on the roof. Everyone was anxious to get going because of the lure of Atkins, VA. It sprinkled from time to time, but generally was cold and overcast all morning. The last 4-miles from Chatfield Shelter was pretty nice with a gradual down across the valley. We arrived at I-81 about 1 PM and headed straight for the Village Restaurant for some lunch. Smiley, Samson and I have voted this the best food on the trail so far. So here I sit working on my journal waiting for Smiley and Samson to get back from picking up their mail drop. Also waiting for Ol’Crawdad to catch me so I can get my poles back - I miss my poles! Plus I need to call mom. She’s going for tests today and on my phone call from Troutdale I was pretty self-absorbed. Will stay a while so I can get hold of her after the tests and she’s home.

A restored school house with boys and girls privy's out back

The hike up Davis Path Shelter went way too quick, we even passed up water because we thought we had a ways to go. Guess who was here - Biz from Blue Mountain Shelter near Helen, GA. Still has the beagle and husky. tAToo and Blazing Bunions are here too. They’re taking 8 days to get to Pearisburg because tAToo is having tendinitis problems. He’s hoping low mileage will help. Plus gave some wound care advice on Blazing Bunions ankle.

4/21/98 Partnership Shelter

19.9 miles (516.2 total)

Mountain Man and I got an early start today. I was half packed when I stopped to watch the sunrise. It was pretty chilly so I was anxious to get moving. It was a fairly easy hike with one long hill (or bump). The hiking did take the chill off. We pass a few good waterfalls, but wished it was about 90 degrees so we could take a cooling dip.

One of the many stream crossings

When we stopped to hitch into town at Dickey Gap, we got cold again fast. We tried to look like "pitiful" hikers but car after car passed us by. Finally after 30 minutes, a couple of guys going trout fishing picked us up and took us into Troutdale. Took me right to the post office.

I’m really surprised that they could keep someone busy here because all I saw of Troutdale was Ray’s Grocery & Deli, the bank and post office, with a few houses here and there. He was still using the old postal scales. Ate a quick lunch with Mountain Man and mailed a few things home. Was able to limit my town stay to less than 90 minutes. Although Ray offered me ride after his next cashier got there, a younger guy just stopping for a sandwich offered me a ride back to the trail. Said my good byes to Mountain Man, who was hitching back to Damascus because he has a wedding to go too. Maybe he’ll catch me before Harper’s Ferry.

Crossed farms hiking through the Virginia countryside

Believe it or not, I caught up to Samson and Smiley by the late afternoon. I’d stumbled upon Ghandi at the first shelter. I’m always surprised to catch him. All four of us were looking for a campsite a few more miles north but the trail was either rocky ridgeline without water to swampy rhododendrons. So we ended up doing a 20-miler to the Partnership Shelter at the Mount Rogers Headquarters. They’re not quite done but it is one beautiful shelter, all timber-frame-log. The hot showers and toilet are the only thing left to do - too bad for us. Ran into Chunky, Straight Away and Lynx already at the shelter. Tried to order some pizza from the headquarters phone but they wouldn’t deliver that late.

My faithful hiking buddies turned "Benedict Arnold" by refusing to sleep near me because of my snoring. So I moved up into the loft with Chunky and the guys. Smiley set out traps but was very surprised to get a mouse within an hour because of the newness of the shelter. Weather forecast is for more rain - wonderful!

4/20/98 Iron Mountain

15.9 miles (496.3 total)

Samson and Smiley sure don’t believe in getting up early, especially when it’s cold. By time we got up and out of the shelter, it was already 10 AM. The hike started out windy and foggy but the sun was definitely out. The terrain was sort of rocky rangeland. Came across a wild pony and her two colts. The white one came very close out of curiosity. The hardest part about hiking today was putting on yesterdays cold-wet socks, boots and clothes. But why get more stuff wet!

Another morning putting on frozen boots and wet clothes,
but the views of the Grayson Highlands were worth it

Saw several feral ponies that roam the park

Met up with Mountain Man at Wise Shelter where we put everything out to dry. Most of the trail was dry except in only a few places. Old Orchard Shelter only made it a 10.9 mile day so we pushed on another couple of miles to tent. Hopefully I can get into Troutdale, take care of my mail and catch these guys at the end of the day. And if I’m lucky, Ol’Crawdad will have my ‘new’ poles.

4/19/98 Thomas Knob Shelter

16.3 miles (480.4 total)

Rain, rain, rain, rain, rain - that is the word for today. Had a little trouble getting out of camp because Samson and Smiley are late sleepers. But I did get out before the rain started. Got to the next shelter, followed by Godspeed and Layers, then Samson and Smiley. Then who shows up going southbound - Longstride, Ol’Crawdad and Veto, all slackpacking. Ol’Crawdad took my poles back to Damascus to see if I could get a new one. Discovered a couple of miles down the trail that I had again forgotten my water bottle (Smiley gave it to me at this shelter). It really didn’t matter because stopping for even a few seconds, you got cold quick. The rain never really let up all day.

Smiley and Samson warm and dry

About 2 miles from this shelter, I went for a "swim." The whole trail was a stream today, with some water pretty deep. Well, I’m hopping from rock to rock, slip, and end up on my back like a turtle in water a foot deep. I struggled a lot with my pack to finally get myself up. I’d laughed at myself earlier because of the efforts I went to keep my feet out of the water, when I was pretty wet already. After taking my swim, I realized I could get wetter! It was really too bad about the weather. I could still tell the scenery we were walking through was beautiful. You just couldn’t enjoy it being so wet. Smiley, Samson and yes, Ghandi are up in the loft of the shelter listening to it rain. Hopefully the weather will break by morning. It would be nice to dry things out tomorrow.

4/18/98 Trailside Pond

11.7 miles (464.1 total)

Confined spaces inside a highly flammable synthetic tent with other flammable objects like sleeping bags is not always a good place for open flame of candles. Enough said.

Got a late start today and only forgot to do a couple of things. Had lunch in Damascus before I hit the trail (was going to have the vegetarian pita but they were all out of pita). Once on the trail it only rained a little bit. The one big bummer of the day came when I was climbing around this huge blowdown. I slipped and snapped one of my poles in half. The rest of the day had me realize how much I use both poles. Came across a few young boy scouts just out for the weekend. Took Paul’s and Nelson’s picture over one of the trail bridges.

I don’t know why they call it Laurel Creek, looks and sounds like a river to me. Huge rapids the whole way. Stopped at the first shelter but decided to try for the pond a few miles away. Ran into Samson and Chunky. She went on to the shelter but Samson and I decided on the pond campsite. Delilah is such a well behaved dog. But I noticed her limping after we set up camp so we’re a little worried about her. Soon Smiley showed up and decided to camp with us.

4/17/98 Damascus, VA

0 miles (452.4 total)

Last night was a big mistake - go out for a few beers with some locals. Ended up driving Shari’s car back because she got into a drinking contest with Ol’Crawdad. She didn’t have a chance. Ended up driving in a rainy thunderstorm over 45 minutes away from Damascus. Got back to "The Place" after 2 AM. Grabbed my sleeping bag and slept on the couch in the living-room.

The Methodist Church in Damascus operates "The Place"
one of the best hostels on the trail

Today was mainly a wasted day, not really accomplishing anything. Decided against sending the thermarest home. Bought some camp shorts. Need a new water bottle holder.

Too many new people today - "The Place" is bursting at the seams with hikers and cyclists. I’m not sure everyone even has a bed. Two nights in town is just too much. But it was nice to see everyone. A few errands tomorrow and hopefully I’ll be on the trail before noon. I’m looking forward to Virginia - just would like the rain to let up just a bit.

4/16/98 Damascus, VA

9.9 miles (452.4 total)

Damascus, "the friendliest town on the Appalachian Trail" was on my mind early this morning. I was up, packed and ready to go before sunrise. It was a great orange ball coming up over the mountains. I hit the trail by 7 AM but I was still the fourth hiker to leave camp. Made great time, passing Junebug and Mike.

Looking down on Damascus was similar to coming into Hot Springs. But the town is closer together and feels more like a small town should. Saw EWOS just minutes into town and he gave me directions to "The Place." Once there, I saw all my old friends: Veto, Samson, Ol’Crawdad, Mountain Man and most of the new guys I met at Kincora. Took a shower, stopped by the local outfitter and now eating at Quincy’s.

'Creeper Trail' into Damascus

4/15/98 Abingdon Gap Shelter

23.1 miles (442.5 total)

It didn’t rain last night but the fog was thick this morning. The big difference between now and the fog break in Georgia was that it’s a lot warmer now. Still thought it might rain though. I needn’t have worried. By noon the sun and clouds were playing tag again. The hike was pretty usual, up-down-up, twist-and-turn. Passed one shelter and headed for the next.

Arrived at Double Springs shelter to find Chopper & Lightfoot and Straight Away cooking lunch. Soon Junebug got there. This guy, who looks to be in his 60’s, left 3-weeks after I did. He doesn’t walk fast but he walks mega-hours. But he doesn’t usually get to the shelter until after 8pm. He’s done the Bike Across America and the Paris-Brest-Paris long distance ride (~450 miles). But he’s never been camping before. Ol’Crawdad got there to reload his carbo’s because he’s doing a 33-miler into Damascus. Then Berough, a southbounder, showed up. He’d gotten giardia, then was laid up in the hospital when he started pissing blood. Turned out he had four kidney stones. Took 2½ months of recuperation but now he’s back on the trail.

Finally, I decided to head on. I really wasn’t planning on going 23-miles to the next shelter, but I wanted to be closer to Damascus. So at 4 PM I started out. Because I’d cooked and eaten dinner and got my feet out of the boots, I was feeling pretty fresh. I seemed to be moving pretty fast. I blew by Junebug and then Chopper & Lightfoot. I kept checking my data book and couldn’t believe my pace. There was a spring about 4-miles from the shelter but it wasn’t even 6 PM. So I decided to go for it - all 23 miles.

Sailed into camp before 7 PM, but my feet are tired. At one point, I seemed to be racing a thunderstorm one ridge over. I could hear it and was afraid it was headed my way. But it never crossed the ridge, thank the goddess for big favors. The shelter camp is crowded with section hikers, not a bad bunch, they offered us some leftovers and cognac. There are also some women section hikers but they're on the far side of camp. Tomorrow Straight Away and I hope to get an early start.

4/14/98 Vandeventer Shelter

17.5 miles (419.5 total)

Had a beautiful day! Got up this morning and cooked pancakes for everyone. Pancakes are a love/hate thing for me. I love them but they don’t always agree with my stomach. It rained last night, but as usual it tapered off by the time I left this morning.

The only bridge out of 3 across the Laurel Fork river
to be repaired after last winters damage

You could hear the water in the Laurel Fork Gorge long before you could see it. Rapids and falls everywhere. One of the most impressive trail maintenance feats was the massive stone steps down into the gorge. There had to be 30-40 flat boulder steps, all level and tight fitting.

The falls I did see were spectacular. Chopper became the first hiker this year to swim the falls - had to be freezing. The climb over the rocks with a full pack had me hugging stone several times. But the best fun was, not one, but two river crossings. A bad snow-storm this winter washed out two bridges. Like I said the water was freezing and where I crossed was about three-feet deep. Each time I came out of the water, it seemed amazing that feeling returned to my feet. Saw some deer going up out of the gorge. Several went bounding away while one held back. It was almost hard to see him since he blended in with the trees.

Laurel Fork Falls

I made pretty good time to Watanga Lake. The water was on my right all afternoon. We crossed the Watanga Dam, the first large earth-filled hydroelectric dam built in the US, and then climbed alot to get to the ridgeline. Once there, the hike wasn’t too bad. The clouds and sun danced all day but the wind was pretty cool up on the ridge.

Watanga Dam

Met Long Stride and his family heading south. His dad, mom and sister came up for the Easter holiday to hike with him. Today was there last day and he was very glad, because his pack never weighed this much. He’d been carrying the food for all four people. Plus he said his mom’s pack only weighed 12 pounds. It gave his family a little more realistic picture of what he was doing. They got wet, the miles were so-so and there were problems getting water. Could be cool to meet up with Long Stride again.

Now, I’m here at Vandeventer Shelter with Ghandi, Ol’Crawdad, Straight Away and a section hiker from England named Mike. The view out the back of the shelter is one of the best so far on the trail: overlooking Watanga Lake. Trying to decide if I want to do a 23-miler tomorrow. Am I crazy or what?

4/13/98 Kincorra Hiker's Hostel

0 miles (401.9 total)

Decided to take a day off after that 20-miler. Besides you can’t beat the hospitality here at the Kincora. The place was a beehive of activity this morning because of so many both slackpacking and checking out headed for Damascus. EWOS took off trying to make more time before Sandi joins him again on the trail. Spent part of the morning washing dishes the others had left behind.

Bob was a great host

Later, Ol’Crawdad, Bob and I rode up to the outfitter in Johnson City, about a 45-minute drive, so Ol’Crawdad could buy a titanium pot and try on some boots. And Bob talked our ears off the whole time (we didn’t mind). When we got back, the three of us headed down to help one of Bob’s elderly neighbors plant one of his potato fields. When we got there, his neighbor and two of his buddies, all three of them in their 70’s, had over half of the field planted. Seems they didn’t really need our help. So we talked farming and they showed us how the potato’s are planted and then covered up.

The only other hiker to show up today was Mike, an Englishman from Germany doing a three-week section hike. We all went out for a home-style cooking restaurant this evening. The hostel is a little more subdued than last night. Seems Bob encourages a 10-mile southbound slackpack because of a difficult gorge crossing and several stream to ford. But I’m going to keep hiking north, with pack. Ghandi never did stop here, and that’s after talking me into the 20-miler. So I might catch up to him, and maybe I’ll see Veto and Mountain Man before Damascus.

4/12/98 Kicorra Hiker's Hostel

19.8 miles (401.9 total)

The plan for Easter Sunday was to do a 20-miler and get to the Kincora Hostel. Even though it was still cold, I stripped layers after 20-minutes. The first few miles were through some of the most beautiful hollows I’d ever seen. If this was land taken by the Forest Service, I can understand the animosity by the locals. "Fair market value" couldn’t come close to this beauty. Soon after, we came to some of the worst trail I’ve been on, almost swamp land. Then, even though the guidebooks say to avoid the locals and go through quickly, we had about 2-mile road walk by all their homes. Luckily, the much talked about Rottweiller was not too aggressive but he did come out onto the road and watched our backs.

One of the most beautiful spots on the trail
but also one of the most troubled

The trail seemed to be a roller coaster all afternoon, crossing dozens of streams and creeks. It must have really slowed our pace down because we arrived at Moreland Gap shelter an hour later than expected. We met Commando again. Seems he’s skipping huge sections just to keep up with his MRE’s (military "Meals, Ready to Eat"). While Lynx and Commando set up camp, Smiley, EWOS and I headed for Dennis Cove Road 6-miles away. We made excellent time, almost making it in 2-hours. EWOS and I didn’t really know what to expect from a hostel that’s only $4 but we were pleasantly surprised.

EWOS leads the way

Bob is retired and he and his wife, Pat, bought this property specifically to set up a hostel "as a hobby." They are from Vermont but looked from North Carolina to Pennsylvania for a spot close to the trail. The Kincora Hostel has a kitchen, living-room with wood burning fireplace, an upstairs bunkroom, a phone, free laundry and showers, free shuttles into town, etc. All Bob asks is a donation to keep it running (to pay for supplies and electricity). Bob is a talker, plus he’s hard of hearing. What a great combination!

Met alot of new thruhikers like Moonpie (later to be renamed Moondaddie). Most of them slackpacked today (with Bob’s free shuttles) and will head out tomorrow. Kind of went wild at the store, buying fixings for tacos and buying a pizza. Ate it all but I did feel a little (or maybe a lot) bloated. We were up late talking in the common room.

4/11/98 Apple House Shelter

8.1 miles (382.1 total)

Today was a day of angels. Because of the bad local reputation between Roan Mountain and Moreland Gap shelter, we decided to do a short 8.1-miles, so we could be rested for a 20-miler to the Kincora Hiker Hostel tomorrow. That and the fact that it was still cold made it awfully hard to get out of the sleeping bag. Because the barn was so enclosed, it was hard to realize just how sunny it was. Finally about 10:30, we started to filter back out onto the trail.

The shelter is a renovated barn with a sleeping loft
Even though it was very cold, the sun was a blazing

Smiley enjoying the winter spectacular

What a day! Within 10-minutes, we were getting rid of layers, because of the hiking and all the sun reflecting off the snow. It was a nice steady climb up to Little Hump Mountain, another bald. But as we neared the top, we could finally see Hump Mountain. The thing that made this bald different was that it was bare except for grass, not only the top but the entire mountain. Add to that, all the snow and it was a magnificent sight compared to other mountains we had climbed. Only with the lack of trees, the wind was pretty strong. Smiley and I were the first one’s headed up and had to bundle up against the cold. As we went up, all I could think of was those old National Geographic pictures of climbers up Mount Everest. I also saw my first large wildlife, a white-tailed deer, as it bound it’s way over the top. It’s still kind of weird all the day hikers we meet. Met two older gentlemen going up and a lot descending the other side.

Smiley hiking up Hump Mountain
All I could think of was the first Mount Everest climbers

Smiley and Dragon's Breath
at arm's length on Hump Mountain

Yesterday left horizontal icicles
from yesterday's storm

Soon the white snow gave way to wet, green vegetation and finally dry brown dirt. We arrived at Apple House shelter warm and dry, and excited because someone had left Coke’s inside. No sooner had we caught our breath, when Smiley got us a ride to the store and restaurant from some day hikers walking by.

We stopped by the restaurant but it was closed, so our lift dropped us off at J’s Market. He’d only been gone a few minutes when he came back to tell us the ‘open’ sign was lit up at the restaurant. He really went out of his way. We’ve been trying to remember to get people’s addresses when they help us so we can drop them a ‘thank you.’ So Smiley, Ghandi and I ate as far from the other customers as we could.

We didn’t need to worry about EWOS because another trail angel dropped off a load of groceries that included beer, coke, chips and salsa, fig newtons and bananas. EWOS was only too happy to share. Surprisingly, others showed up late, including Chunky, Piper and Lynx. We all squeezed in and waited for another cold night.

Eating a little 'trail magic'

4/10/98 Overmountain Shelter

13.9 miles (374.0 total)

Next morning with the beginnings of a snow storm

In the morning, I was cold and still waiting for it to stop raining. But the sound on the tent was wrong, more like sleet. Sure enough, I pop my head out and discover an inch of snow and sleet. So a quick pop-tart and off I’m going. I wanted to get to the shelter before EWOS and Smiley left. Actually I was only about an hour away. The data book seemed all screwed up in this section. I found EWOS, Smiley, Ghandi and Orco still in their sleeping bags. Even though I tented, I probably was warmer last night.

Ghandi, Smiley, and EWOS had snow covering
the foot of their sleeping bags this morning

Orco is a kid from Ohio. We ended up breaking trail for everyone else in the fresh snow. I was so glad I ended up closer to Roan Mountain. It was a long climb with each of us changing the lead. Believe it or not, we still met some day-hikers. Once on top of Roan, Orco and I missed the turn off for the trail.

The snow was getting deeper as we ascended Roan Mountain

We ended up in the visitor parking area with the wind and snow getting worse. When trying to backtrack we found our first footprints already filled with snow and obscured. Finally found a blaze and headed down again. Met up with everyone at Roan High Knob shelter. Where they proceed to tell Orco and I about the trail angel that fed them soup, muffins and hot cocoa. Yes, I was envious (I sort of didn’t believe them but the oranges they had proved it).

At Carver’s Gap things changed dramatically. I didn’t know we had a bald to go over also, which in this blizzard was even worse. The wind felt incredibly strong and you couldn’t see 20-feet in front of you. Plus the fact that the blazes were probably covered with snow, made this a place easy to get lost. Once off the bald, the trail was easier to find but no easier to hike. I was a man with a mission; get to the Overmountain shelter.

The sight of the huge red barn was a very welcome sight after a day like today. Already in residence were Chopper & Lightfoot, and an older couple just out for the weekend. Later, three kids, also out for the weekend, showed up but they were very unprepared. They didn’t even have a stove. Ghandi offered me space in his tent, so I helped with put it up in the loft of the barn. While there were large spaces between the boards of the walls, it had a very good roof. But it was still a cold night sleeping.

4/9/98 Iron Mountain Gap

18.3 miles (360.1 total)

Long day, but let’s start at the beginning. Last night EWOS decided to give me a lesson in fire building. I thought I was pretty good but "assistant scoutmaster Ed" showed me a few things. He showed me how to identify Eastern Hemlock, kind of an evergreen, with leaves that made a flat shelf, with small pine needles. You break off the small dead twig branches to use as tinder, burns easy and hot. Mountain Laurel, almost looks like rhododendron, but with smaller leaves. We got a great fire going, lots of flame and no smoke. We talked about how fire is a male kind-of-thing.

Smiley warms up by a "perfect" fire

Last night, the storm clouds did rip open up until early this morning. When we finally woke up, the rain had stopped and the sun gave us good hopes for the day. The trail was not bad and we made good time the first four miles. At Beauty Spot, we had good views but the exposed bald was very windy. All day the sun and rain clouds were fighting it out. They seemed to be chasing us all day. The hike was a typical day, up, down, and more up. OK, a lot of up. The switchbacks up Unaka Mountain made it a little easier but a lot longer.

The sun tried hard to break up the clouds

Met a few day hikers even on a day like today. As we got higher, the clouds were definitely winning the battle. As we got to the top, we had another kaleidoscope of vegetation changes. On top, as the rain began on and off, the trail entered an extensive stand of red spruce. With the darkening of the sky, the spruce made the whole area seem haunted. I was grateful for frequent blazes up here. But all of a sudden, you’re squirted back out into the usual vegetation, with sun even. Another long hike down, but the sun started losing again.

Crossing fences

As we got to Cherry Gap Shelter, my original plan was to do a 14 tomorrow, but with Roan Mountain at the end of the day. That sounded really NOT good. So I decided to go as far as possible, maybe 20, to make the trip over Roan earlier in the day. Before I left the shelter though, I was knocked out when my head hit the overhanging beam of the shelter. I’m so short and the overhang's so high I’ve never had a problem. Smiley was amazed at how fast I hit the ground.

Entering the 'Black Forest'

The terrain was another up and down roller coaster, with rain clouds in clear dominance of the skies. I was planning on stopping around 5 PM, after the stream noted in the databook. But NO stream! As the weather got worse, I began to panic. After 5, I began just looking for places to tent. The adrenaline was pumping way too fast to run long. Finally at 6, I found a spot and set up the tent. EWOS finally showed up (I was moving too fast). "Only 90 more minutes," he said, but I was finished. After Smiley came by I was having second thoughts but the rain was starting to come down harder. I reluctantly let them go. Because of the rain, I was unable to cook, so I ate snack food. By the time that food had it’s effect, I was feeling much better. But to pack and take the tent down would take time and it was getting late. So I admitted defeat and went to bed early, as the rain fell.

4/8/98 Curley Maple Shelter

4.1 miles (341.8 total)

Just as we’re getting ready to hit the lights, two set of eyes pop up in the doorway. It was Piper and Shane, out for a little night hiking. They didn’t leave No Business Knob Shelter until 8:39 PM. The moon was out and the shelter was pretty full.

For some reason, I didn’t sleep at all last night, even though I had Uncle Johnny’s thick thermarest. Finally, about 6 AM, I got dressed and went outside to write postcards. But while everyone else is waking up, the clouds came rolling in. By the time Veto and Ol’Crawdad got started for a 19 mile slackpack at 8:30, the clouds opened up - HARD! A few of us decided to hang around and hike out after lunch. A quick trip to the post office and now I’m eating at Pizza Hut with the sun a blazin’.

Finally got out of the hostel about 1:30. In one way, you’re torn between the pull of the town and the trail. The trail had some good ups and downs to the campground, then turned into a follow an easy path upstream. "This is going to be easy!" I thought. Then the hammer fell on me. This was another straight up forever trail. I was originally thinking of doing 15 miles but stopped at Curly Maple Gap Shelter winded and tired, too much town food. EWOS, Smiley and I have decided to make it a short one today. My schedule is for 12-15 mile days from now on, so no need to kill myself.

The pack situation has me pissed off, at myself. It’s so easy to whine about it. I keep thinking of those thru-hikers 10 or 20 years ago. My equipment is space-age compared to what they had. Chunky made some comment about how cheap her pack was, and I believe she’ll take it all the way to Katahdin. Then I look at my $275 pack. So I’m not going to replace it. If 40 pounds is too much for it, I just have to trim the fat, or at least move it around. So as soon as I can, the thermarest gets replaced by a foam pad and the waterproof food bags get replaced by mesh ditty bags. After Mount Rogers, besides winter clothes going home, I’ll get my alcohol stove. Then for the northern section, I’m sending the tent home to be replaced by my dryloft bag cover and tarp. Plus I’m going to keep experimenting with the straps and moving the load around. Silly of me to whine about equipment, AT means AdapT!

Met a few new hikers today, Chunky (who is skinny as a rail), Lynx and Straight Away. Cosmo and Kadidlehopper also showed up at the hostel. And Hickery caught up to us also. Not bad for a section hiker just starting. Was thinking Dundee, Tucker and Piper might show up at the shelter tonight.

4/7/98 Erwin, TN

13.1 miles (337.7 total)

Last night, after dinner and everything was done, I walked over to the other campers’ fire. Turned out they were pretty nice guys just out for the evening. We just talked about hiking and the AT.

This morning did not look good compared to the last couple of days. Thought real hard about putting on the pack cover because it felt like rain. But after a couple of hours, the sun pushed real hard and broke through. The cold morning was beginning to warm up. The terrain/vegetation is what I noticed today. I seemed to move continuously between three different zones; rhododendron rain forest, leaf forest, and evergreens. It seemed to change frequently, almost every corner I turned. Much to my surprise, I reached the shelter an hour early. 11:30 and it’s only 5.7 miles to the Nolichucky River. So what the hell, let’s push on!

Hell of a long climb, only to come down, but some good views of the river. I’m just steps away from the bridge and I see someone wave from the deck of what I thought was a restaurant. Turns out to be a new hiker hostel that’s only been open three days. Uncle Johnny was thru-hiking last year when he stopped by this house to ask for a lift. The owner later told him he was getting married, he was 89 and she was 30 years younger) and putting the house on the market in a week. Uncle Johnny said his good byes and set off. Four miles later he turned around and put an offer on the house.

Uncle Johnny's "Nolichucky Hostel" for 10$/night

Although he as a lot to do, the start is the best hostel I’ve seen. So right now Ghandi, EWOS, Smiley and I are sitting in the bunkhouse watching John Bulushi in "Continental Divide." I was going to spend an extra day here but everything is too spread out. Bought food for the first time on this trip. I couldn’t believe how much stuff I bought. Even more surprised that it fit in my food bags. Seems like enough for a month. Tomorrow after sending off my bounce box, I plan a short day, with a quick stop by the Nolichucky Gorge Campground.

4/6/98 Whistling Gap

13.1 miles (324.6 total)

This daylight savings time has me all confused. I’m so used to being out of camp by 8 AM, that now I keep feeling I’m late when I leave by 9 AM. But it does give us more light in the evening.

The trail wound it's way around North Carolina farms

Another wonderful day on the trail

Today’s walk was very different from yesterday’s. Sunday had us mostly on the south side of the ridges and peaks with more stream crossings than I can count. Today was on the north, little or no water, but evidence of yesterday’s ice. The hike was a steady uphill, getting steeper as we approached Big Bald. At a height of 5516’, it gave us a 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. While a bunch of people stayed for lunch, I took a few quick pictures and headed down because it was pretty breezy up there. Met another section hiker, Hickory, who was just starting today and headed for Harper’s Ferry.

A little windy on top of Big Bald

Bald Mountain Shelter was just a mile past the summit. The privy here has been the worst I’ve ever seen. Mountain Man refused to use it and dug a cat-hole. Saw Piper, who I met briefly at the Hot Springs Hiker Hostel. He got his name because he plays the flute. But for this trip he’s carrying a wooden oncorina. In his hands, it sounds great. Would be cool to get some pointers from him, but he’s moving slowly with a group that includes Tucker and a few other guys I didn’t meet. Decided to push on for a 12 mile day. Ended up at Whistling Gap. Three weekenders are camped out here also, but we’ve kept pretty separate. Mountain Man, Ghandi and Ol’Crawdad are trying to catch Veto and EWOS by doing a 20 miler. There’s no way my feet or back can do that now. Maybe after insoles, maybe a new pack and some easier terrain. I’m just trying to maximize my stay in Erwin Wednesday.

Well, dinner is over and I’m starting to feel alone. Other than that night in Gooch Gap my first week, I’ve always camped with someone, whether tenting or at the shelters. It was hard to stop at 12 miles while all my friends went on. Not sure how many I’ll catch. Tomorrow will probably be another one alone. It’s real easy to get pulled into someone else’s agenda. As the saying goes "hike your own hike." Besides, there are still others behind me like Roscoe, Naked Dog, Mighty Wind and a bunch of others I’ve only just met. Since the sun is awhile from setting, I just might do a few postcards and make a to-do list for Erwin.

4/5/98 Hobgack Ridge Shelter

14.7 miles (311.5 total)

Roam ice on the trees lining the trail

EWOS is 29! We woke up to ice-covered wonderland. All of the trees are covered with ice and frost. The thermometer at the shelter reads 30-degrees when we leave. The scenery was just amazing. I kept stopping to admire. But just as Ghandi predicted (he now has a radio and the weather), the sun came out and the temperature started rising.

Before long it was raining melting ice and the wind would send ice chunks down on us as the branches moved. The trail was very confusing, twisting on itself and following several old roads. Several thru-hikers admitted getting lost. The trail passed by several AT Thru-hiker graves plus a nice clearing with the graves of three Confederate soldiers ambushed as they tried to get home.

By the time we reached Flint Mountain Shelter it was hot. EWOS and I stopped to strip down to shorts and dry out some of our gear. Along the way we crossed paths with a bunch of day hikers. First, I met Louisiana Lou, a trail maintainer I’d met my first day in the Smokies. Then a group of Boy Scouts out for the weekend. I’m sure as the weather gets nicer, we’re going to see a lot more weekenders. Glad I have my tent.

EWOS and I lay out all our wet clothing

Hiked a very long day, so my feet tell me, as I arrived at Hogback Ridge Shelter. Veto, Ol’Crawdad and Mountain Man were there to greet me. A bunch had gone on, like Smiley and Samson. EWOS finally showed up complaining about his new boots. The walk to water had to be half-a-mile and the privy wasn’t much closer. But it was a nice shelter with plenty of tent sites.

An airy privy with a view