3/31/98 Deer Park Mountain Shelter

11.4 miles (267.3 total)

Have finally identified the flower. Sat down today and studied it, according to Wingfoot "sweet white violet."

That's the AT symbol

Didn’t sleep well last night. Make a note to all future thru-hikers: use a 40-degree bag with a liner instead of a 20-degree bag. I was just too hot. I ended up putting on my fleece long underwear and sleeping on top of the bag. It probably doesn’t help that I had sunburned arms. Other than that, had a peaceful night at Roaring Fork Shelter, but a bunch of us were tenting.

Bluegrass and EWOS taking a break

Today was a short 11.4 miles. Decided to stop at the shelter a few miles before Hot Springs. That way I can go early tomorrow and have a full day in town. So right now, thunder clouds are brewing while Steve, Ghandi and EWOS (and I) sit here writing in our journals and addressing postcards for mailing tomorrow.

3/30/98 Roaring Fork Shelter

11.2 miles (255.9 total)

Oh, mustn’t forget Bark Eater, a ’97 thru-hiker that had to get off the trail because of Lymne’s Disease. He was just out for a drive and thought he might come upon a few thru-hikers. He ended up shuttling a whole bunch of us back up to the trail from Mountain Mama’s.

The climb up Snowbird Mountain after our little break was l-o-n-g-! It just seemed to go up and up. Towards the end, I though I’d passed up the shelter because of how long it took me to do those miles. But along the way I started seeing wild flowers in bloom. Plus a bumble bee blocked my path until I passed his inspection. Most everyone stopped along the way to rest and to not hike in the heat of the day.

Met up with Mountain Man at the Ground Hog Creek Shelter about 3:30. Most everyone else got there around 5:00 PM. Steve and Smiley have caught up to us, but Ghandi, Pufferbelly & Granny decided to camp before reaching the shelter. Mountain Man and I decided to tent. He has been a little offended by the language of Ol’Crawdad (which is pretty bad). And you know a group of guys usually sink to the lowest common denominator. He’s an OK guy (Ol’Crawdad) but I would hate to hike much more with him.

Today found me hiking a mile out of camp, only to go back for my water bottle (signs of early Alzheimer’s?). Another warm day with a lot of climbing. But it was all worth it when I reached Max Patch, a bald peak about 4800’.

Max Patch is a high, grassy bald (mountain with no trees)
Took a break here to rest my feet in the warm sunshine

You could see Snowbird and Cammerer. We’d been getting views of this grassy bald for days. I was surprised at how many day hikers and tourists were up here on a Monday. As I was making my way down off the summit, a family visiting from Alabama offered me some snacks of hard boiled eggs, carrots, cauliflower, Oreo’s and a Pepsi. So in exchange, I tried to tell them more about the AT (which they hadn’t heard of). I have been pleasantly surprised by the kindness of strangers to us hikers. Right now I’m sitting by yet another stream. Practiced a little on the penny whistle and a little journal writing. Weather calls for scattered showers Tuesday. Hope it holds off till I reach Hot Springs.

Sunburn is the word this afternoon. I can’t believe I’m hot, sweaty and sunburned and less than a week ago, I was cold, wet and hiking in a foot of snow. That drastic change must be why I’m nursing a cold.

Took some pictures of small white, wild flowers, but unable to identify. Also saw several red squirrels, almost looked like large chipmunks.

3/29/98 Groundhog Creek Shelter

10.6 miles (244.7 total)

I just can’t believe this weather! Today has to be in the 80’s and just three days ago we were in snow.

Last night, true to form, Ol’Crawdad strolled in about 8:00 PM, in the pitch black of night. How he can see in the dark is amazing. Later that night, Ghandi was the latest victim to the stomach flu. After seeing Steve sick on the trail, he decided it was everyone who played in the card game at Ice Water Springs Shelter.

Leaving the snow behind but streams a plenty

We were all up pretty early to head for Mountain Mama’s Kuntry Store. It was just what you’d picture for a family-run store and diner in the backwoods of Tennessee. The place was full of thru-hikers, in addition to those of us from the last shelter. We saw Pufferbelly & Granny, and one of the Soulmates. Later, before we left, Backpacking Fool and Samson showed up to wait for their dogs.

Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store & Bunkhouse
They had family photo's lining the walls of the store

The climb back up has been harder because of the heat. But at 12:30, I was rewarded with a very cold, cold spring-fed stream. Earlier, we had our second river crossing since starting - first the Nantahala and now the Pigeon River. So right now it’s EWOS, Veto and I taking a great lunch break.

3/28/98 Davenport Gap Shelter

14.9 miles (234.1 total)

Yesterday was the first time I had memories of Kenya. It was the warm, moist earth. Although today started out quite windy, you could tell it was going to be warm. The first few miles were more of the snow, slush and snow-melt. But after that, the trail improved greatly, meaning dry! We stopped in Cosby Knob Shelter for a water break. A couple of trail maintainers were just finishing some repairs and gave us most of their snacks and lunch. The shelter was real nice. After that we had a long climb up to Mount Cammerer. There was an old stone fire tower and we just sat there in the sun and ate lunch.

Mighty Wind and DB

Basking in the sunlight. Ahhhh...

Finally, after all the climbing in the Smokies, we had a five mile hike down, down, and down. Tonight’s shelter is 3300’ lower than last nights. On a bright note, Mountain Man is at the shelter tonight. He hurt his knee a few days ago and has been taking it easy. While cooking ATami showed up with goodies. He’s a physical therapist I know from the ATML. Tomorrow, we’ll stop in at Mountain Mama’s for breakfast.

3/27/98 Tri-Corner Knob Shelter

12.6 miles (219.2 total)

This is to proclaim 3/27 as "Ralf Day." Last night and today, four thru-hikers became ill with vomiting and dry heaves. Weather Carrot, Mighty Wind, Steve & Ed. Nothing in common, so we figure it’s viral. The trail was OK at first, but the last five miles were either snow or a stream. The views were pretty good but I hate wet boots! Have been better at taking breaks and taking my time to get to the shelter. I wanted to stop at Peck’s Corner Shelter to practice the penny whistle but Steve was there (getting sick), so I pushed on. But my legs felt better in the afternoon.

3/26/98 Icewater Spring Shelter

3.0 miles (206.6 total)

What a beautiful day! Pufferbelly taught me the finer points of hitch-hiking. We were able to get a ride in less than ten minutes. The sun is just beaming. Decided to NOT do a ten miler, just three. And who should show up at Newfound Gap but Suzanne, Mighty Wind & Ol’Crawdad. Didn’t sleep much last night so I’ve been taking a cat-nap in the sun. Weather Carrot is here, plus a bunch of weekend hikers. The shelter will probably be full tonight, but the night should be clear and there are tent sites if needed.

Taking a break in the sun

3/25/98 Gatlinburg, TN

4.5 miles (203.6 total)

Just when you slip off to sleep in a shelter, someone comes in late. Two college kids showed up about 9:00 PM. I’m glad I’d put most of my stuff away already. Trying to keep it organized in the dark while trying to make room is almost guaranteed to loose something.

In the morning, Pufferbelly & Granny argued about whether to go to Gatlinburg or not. Mountain Man and I made a hasty departure in the rain and fog. We made good time to the gap, but I had shitty luck with the hitchhiking into town. I’d walked several miles when a pickup truck with Pufferbelly & Granny in the back stopped to pick me up. It was some ladies just headed into town for some shopping. The temperature rose steadily as we descended the scenic drive down to the parks exit. What I saw was a lot better than I’d seen on the trail. Those two ladies drove us everywhere. The only downside was the Willow Motel said they were closed (even though their sign said "open"). So finally got a more expensive room for the night.

Gatlinburg is the "Branson" of Tennessee. Every other store sells T-shirts, a lot of strange museums (Ripley’s, etc.). When I asked where the locals ate, the hotel clerk said "McDonald’s." You get the picture. Went to the Happy Hiker outfitter to get my mail drop and get my picture added to the "Wall of Thru-hikers." Had Copper Kettle for lunch but way too expensive for what you got. Caught the last trolley bus to the post office and the driver waited because that was the last run of the day. Found a natural foods store hidden on a back street. And right now I’m eating at Pizza Hut. Plan to soak a bit in the jacuzzi tonight. The hard part tomorrow will be getting a lift into the Park. The Soulmates and Bevo were able to get a ride from Clingman’s Dome. They’re stopping for at least two nights and I really wonder if they’ll continue.

3/24/98 Mount Collins Shelter

13.5 miles (199.1 total)

Woke to an additional two to three inches of snow. But with the sun out, it was a winter wonderland. At times I was walking on virgin snow, sometimes just following animal tracks up the slight depression that was the trail. As we went higher, the views were fantastic. Unfortunately the snow began to melt also. The trail was a channel full of slush. My boots and socks were soaked, but if I kept walking, I was OK. We stopped at Clingmans Dome tower. Up this high the landscape was really different. With so many evergreens and snow, it seemed more like Colorado. We shared the shelter with four guys on spring break, and Pufferbelly & Granny. Tomorrow I go into Gatlinburg while Mountain Man keeps going (I gave him my toilet paper since he’s a twice-a-day man and was almost out.)

Snowed about 3" every night in the Smokies
but usually was sunny during the day

View of Clingman's Dome, the highest point along the AT

Mountain Man was pretty much hip deep in the snow

3/23/98 Derrick Knob Shelter

11.4 miles (185.6 total)

The trees were heavy with snow & ice

Yesterday, Mountain Man and I finally got a late start. We didn’t hit the trail until after 11. It was still cool and a little damp as we walked into the park. Almost immediately, we noticed a fine dusting of snow. As we got higher, the snow got deeper. I imagine two to three inches. We passed a few guys on their spring break coming down. The sun was out which was good and bad. It was beautiful scenery but as it got warmer, a lot of snow and ice would fall. And the trail was muddy a lot. We made it to Mollies Ridge Shelter by 4:30. We stayed with a father and his two sons (who were poster children for "cotton kills"). Much later Pufferbelly & Granny showed up. It was a chilly night in the shelter.

The SMNP shelters were made of stone with the fourth wall
made of chain link fence to keep out the bears

Pretty much overcast all day with a few snow flurries. It was hard to keep a good pace in the snow. Plus, several places with good views just didn’t show us anything. We arrived at the shelter to find Soulmates and Bevo already in residence. As we cooked dinner, the snow really started coming down. I hope to get to Gatlinburg by Wednesday but hiking could be real hard if it gets any deeper.

Those are 'mousers' attached to the rafters to hang food bags
Hikers futile attempt to keep the mice out of our precious food

3/22/98 Mollies Ridge Shelter

12.0 miles (174.2 total)

Mountain Man talked me into staying another night, plus it rained/snowed all day here at the lower elevations. Hopefully the weather will improve today.

We discussed how the trail seems more relaxed than the town visits. I took one day off but it feels like I’ve been here a week. You just seem rushed with laundry, getting supplies, keeping up with journal and writing home. After breakfast, we’ll probably hit the trail.

Heading into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

The higher we went, the deeper the snow...

Both Mountain Man and I are worried about Ghost. He keeps skipping sections because he’s sick. Complains of constant nose bleeds, doesn’t eat much and has already lost 15 pounds (and he started out thin already). He’s going to take another day off here. I wish he’d see a doctor (he’s only talked to his over the phone.)

...until we were really slogging through it

3/21/98 Fontana Dam, NC

0 miles (162.0 total)

Well, I’m sitting in the laundry trying to decide what to do. My feet are still sore from yesterday and it’s snowing outside. I’ve got till noon to decide. I finally met the Soulmates last night and Pufferbelly & Granny this morning. If it clears up a bit, I might make it a short day hike just to get into the "Great Smokie Mountain National Park." Might even see Mountain Man if he makes it before the post office closes.

3/20/98 Fontana Dam, NC

11.5 miles (162.0 total)

Began the day with a nice thunderstorm. Register entries at the next shelter said they also got hail. I’m glad we didn’t since I was tenting. But again, by eight o’clock, the rain stopped. For some reason I thought today would be an easy hike into Fontana Dam - NOT! The one good thing was the goddess took pity on her humble hiker and the sun was out much of the day. I wanted to stop several times just to sit in the sunshine but I was worried about getting to Fontana Village before the post office closed. The last mile of the trail to the shelter was someone’s cruel joke on hikers because it was this maze of ups and downs that probably was less than ¼ mile if it had been straight. To my surprise the shelter was empty - I’d been expecting Funk-29, Jeff and at least the Johnson Brothers.

The trail was literally carved out of the mountainside.
You had to be careful you didn't fall down the slope

Taking a much needed break with Camel
on a long mileage day to Fontana Dam

My day got worse after that. I started to walk to town, thought I was on the wrong road, so I walked back the other way, only to run into the dam, then turn around again and almost walk the whole way before someone gave me a lift. The road was a typical up and down winding road with no shoulder. I ended up walking on the asphalt with my pack. I think the road walking did more damage than the 30-miles in two days. Although I was in a daze when I finally reached the post office, I was delighted that I received a bunch of cards and letters. I ended up getting a shuttle back to the shelter to visit with the Brothers Johnson at last. The sun was replaced with clouds as the afternoon wore on.

After much internal debate, I decided to stay in the $10 hostel in the village. A crew of MacKaye Trail maintainers, Lawrence and Laurice, first drove me to the restaurant, then all over trying to find the registration building. The had planned to stay at the shelter but opted for the hotel. They couldn’t have been nicer to drive a cranky, tired hiker around (besides the fact that I needed a shower real bad). The hostel building will sleep about 30 but I was the only one. Maybe that’s why I had trouble falling asleep because I was used to camping with others for the last 2 ½ weeks. I’m going to miss the Brothers Johnson but now that they bought hiking poles, there’s no way I could keep up with them.

3/19/98 Brown Fork Gap Shelter

16.2 miles (150.5 total)

After such a bad weather day, today was warm sunshine day, spring has sprung. The woods started to come alive. I saw crickets, caterpillars, butterflies, etc. I might have even got a little sunburn. But I also want to rename today "stupid-human-tricks" day.

Appalachian Trail

I decided that I would try and put in a 16-mile day, something I haven’t done. That way I can get my mail before the post office at Fontana Dam closes on Saturday. What I didn’t figure in was all the climbing I would have to do. Especially a near vertical climb at the end. At one point, I was so tired, I just wanted to lay down and consign my body to mother-nature.

Appalachian Trail

All four of us made it, Funk 29, Jeff, Camel and I, all the way from NOC. Mighty Wind is taking his time because he’s going home for a few days after he gets to Fontana Dam. Mountain Man probably did the same thing by dividing the mileage into two and a half days. Hopefully, I’ll see him before going into the Smokies.

The NOC was such a nice place, even had breakfast before I left this morning. Last night, we all just sat around the table in the community room talking. Hopefully, I’ll see everyone again after Hot Springs or Damascus.

We always seemed to be walking above everything

3/18/98 Wesser, NC

11.6 miles (134.3 total)

Where to begin? Last night the four of us crashed about 7 o’clock. Then about 8:30 in the dark and rain came four more thru-hikers. We were able to squeeze three more into the shelter and Ol’Crawdad slept in his bivy. Suzanne, Eternal Optimist, and Moans-and-Groans had just done a 30-mile slackpack. Besides disrupting the whole shelter, it was also Suzanne’s 30th birthday and they had brought a small cake and a bottle of wine. Needless to say, they sang her a quick "Happy Birthday" and then got to bed.

We were really packed in like sardines with every available inch of floor space taken up by a body. In the middle of the night a bunch of us were woken up by the loud gnawing sound. The sound was up in the rafters and not in our food bags! Sounded like one mouse chewing his way through one of the timbers. This was only my second might in a shelter and I have vowed to make it my last if I can. You’re just at the mercy of your shelter mates. As soon as was reasonable, I changed and started packing about 7 AM. I just wanted to make sure I got a bunk at the Nantahala Outdoor Center.

Mountain Man looks pretty sleepy while
Spirit looks for some attention from Mighty Wind

I made great time, getting to Wesser Bald Shelter about 10:30 with Bjorn in residence. Even after being warned about him, I wasn’t prepared. He’s this 280-pound mammoth of a mountain man who could be a teacher-philosopher except for the fact that he’s nuts! I guess since he knew I wasn’t staying he had to give his viewpoint in a condensed version. I knew he was quoting someone else’s poetry about nature, but he was speaking it like it was his own. It was like I couldn’t leave, he just kept talking.

After that shelter I just made like a freight-train. It seemed that when I was on a ridgeline, it was pretty dry. But when you went low, the rain started coming down. I literally took my life into my hands today. The muddy trail was treacherous. I’m surprised more people aren’t killed. I wish I could have taken pictures that could show you the danger. The last three or four miles were in a torrential downpour, but luckily, the temperature was not bad.

I finally caught sight of the road about 1 o’clock. What a relief! Shower and a dry bunk. So right now, I’m sitting in River’s End Restaurant overlooking the Nantahala River (occasional kayaks float by). Will do a little shopping and be back here at dinner.

3/17/98 Cold Spring Shelter

12.0 miles (122.7 total)

It’s cold and wet, what else can I say. Mighty Wind and I made great time to the shelter, just before it started raining. Another 12 mile day. Camel showed up later after a two-day layover in Franklin. Looks like Swamp Fox is a shelter behind. I also missed the Brothers Johnson by an hour or two. Weather reports are for rain till Saturday. Hoping to make big miles to get to Fontana Dam by Friday night.

3/16/98 Siler Bald Shelter

12.8 miles (110.7 total)

Last night, Mountain Man, Might Wind and his dog Spirit, Brother Angus and Jim and his dog. Angus had tried a south-bound hike a few years ago but just didn’t like the isolation. So he’s trying again as a north-bounder. Slept in a shelter for the first time. Didn’t like it, kept worrying about the mice. Plus Mighty Wind had to nudge me a lot to keep the snoring bearable (only he’s a pretty loud snorer too. Rained all night on our tin roof. Like usual, the rain began to let up with sunrise. Mountain Man is the gourmet of the bunch, some of his ingredients are miso, quinia, dried vegetables and seaweed. Swamp Fox headed off early going to the Rainbow Spring Campground near Franklin NC. As I was leaving, Funk 29, a 20-year old christian from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, stopped by for breakfast. Must have had a real early start.

Today was hiking in the mists. The lower we got the colder and wetter. The higher warmer and less wet. I stripped down to shorts, shirt and vest more because of the humidity than the warmth. Saw a lot more rain-forest-like terrain with lots of moss covering everything, and several types of ferns. And water, water, and more water. We missed the sign for the Rock Gap Shelter because of the fog. Some places it was thick enough to cut, others none at all. Spirit kept following close on my heels. She is a Husky. Later after a short snack lunch, Funk 29 and I just motored the last 4 miles up the mountain. We got to the shelter more than an hour ahead of Mighty Wind and Mountain Man. A local hiker stopped by for water as he was camping up on Siler Bald.

They said you could hear my snoring all the way from my tent.
I just think they have sensitive ears

After dinner, Halfway, a medical student section-hiker headed south stopped in. Told me the Brothers Johnson are still ahead of me. Looks like I won’t be catching them for awhile. Today’s 12.8 miles felt good. Looks like it might be cold tonight.

3/15/98 Big Spring Shelter

10.2 miles (97.9 total)

What a glorious day, praise the AT Goddess! The day started sunny and just got better and better. Right now, I’m sitting next to a spring-fed stream on a moss-covered bank sitting in the sun. I’d guess the temperature has hit 70 degrees at least. I’m down to my shorts and t-shirt.

The 'green tunnel' of the AT in North Carolina

Most of the day was just rolling terrain until I started climbing Albert Mountain. At one point the trail is literally built upon the roots of trees as they cling to the shear cliff wall. Not for the faint of heart. I wish I could have gotten a picture but I was too afraid to let go of anything so I could pull out my camera. It is by far one of the scariest sections of the trail I’ve been on. I wouldn’t have wanted to hike it in bad weather! I thought I was doing well until I spotted the fire tower high above me because that’s the top of Albert. The last quarter mile is almost vertical. I was using my hands and feet to climb up. The shelter was empty but I did find a nice cold coke sitting in the spring. I thought it was trash at first. Plus some trail angel left flour tortillas and rice in the shelter. But there is no trail register. Next town I’m getting one so I can place it in the next shelter that doesn’t have one.

3/14/98 Beech Gap campsite

14.3 miles (87.7 total)

What a great day! It was a lot like the second day, started out cold, cloudy, and windy. But after lunch, the sun came out big time. Almost thought of getting out the sunscreen. After leaving Chick in camp, was only planning on doing 10 miles to Standing Indian Shelter. Passed the Georgia-North Carolina border about 9 o’clock today.

The GA/NC state line. One state down, 13 more to go

The climb up from Bly Gap was rough. It didn’t help with the freight-train winds to my left. The weather was pretty miserable all the way to Muskrat Shelter. Had a quick snack and kept going.

More snow on the trail

One kid passed me like I was standing still. I looked up seconds after he passed and he was gone. Met Gary, the weekend hiker, who says if I’d kept going, he would have given me a spoon. Soon after the shelter, the sun started to reassert itself. The day got better and better. I reached the Standing Indian Shelter about 1:30 and decided to push on to Beech Gap, about 4 miles and one mountain away. Up top was such a constant with the sun beating down, my shirt sleeves rolled up and walking through one foot snow drifts. If I’d had time, I would have built a snowman. I ran into Swamp Fox who was just soaking up the sun. He said I missed a great view on top of Standing Indian Mountain.

Seems he was headed for Beech Gap campsite also. Having the tent free’s me up from using the shelters. We had a quick diner and I hung our food bags for the first time. Our only problem might be getting them down. We laughed pretty hard at our own foolishness. Have been trying to get into a more civilized way of camp life but its hard after a long day of hiking. I need to do like Swamp Fox and take more breaks, especially when the weather is this nice (because I know it won’t last). We are proposing that all shelters have a shrine to the AT Goddess so we may humbly ask for her favor.

3/13/98 Blue Ridge Gap

10.9 miles (73.1 total)

What a day! Spent the evening last night with Rosco figuring ways to keep warm. I tried the hot water bottle trick which worked great. Rosco also tried putting hot rocks in his cook pot, covered it with his wool sweater and placed that in the sleeping bag. Too hot he says. I have now tried to rename him Hot Rocks. It wasn’t as cold as I thought. This morning the sun was shining as I quickly broke camp so I could get back to the Blueberry Patch to retrieve my spoon.

Met a lot of people on the way down. You should have seen the look on Gary and Lennie’s faces when I showed up looking for my spoon. Back on the trail again, I ran into Nut, Disco, April Moon and John, who spent two nights at the Holiday Inn in Hiawassee. I must be a lot stronger than I thought walking because I flew by them, even though I wasn’t trying to and since I had already walked five miles back to the gap. Everyone stopped back at the Plumorchard Gap Shelter for lunch. I was all for moving on because it was still early and since I had already spent a night at this shelter. Chick, who I met when his tent blew apart on Tray Mountain, decided to push on another two miles to another campsite.

A great little campsite outside of Hiawassee.
That's my blue tent in the background

I soon put distance between the two of us. At the end of the day I had 12 miles, but only two miles closer to Katahdin.

As we ate dinner, it became apparent no one followed us. Seems hard to believe thru-hikers that have already taken a day and a half off would only do a 4.4 mile day. It’s along way north. The campsite is great, with a view, firewood and the temp is better than it has been in days. Hard uphill 10 miles tomorrow.

3/12/98 Plumorchard Gap Shelter

4.3 miles (71.1 total)

Everyone getting ready to leave

Well, I’m pissed! Did a short five miles today, very sunny but very, very cold. Tonight is supposed to be close to zero. Got ready to cook dinner and discovered, no spoon. Such a low-tech item but so vital. So now I have to back track to Deep Gap tomorrow, and hopefully I can get a spoon at the Blueberry Patch. I’ll probably end up here again tomorrow night. Shit! To add to all that, there was this spectacular waterfall that crossed the trail, also covering it with ice. Yes, I fell and hit my left shoulder and head on the ice. Lucky I didn’t hit a rock and split my head open. So tonight, I share the shelter with Rosco. Maybe I’ll see Nut, Disco, April Moon and John.

3/11/98 Hiawassee, GA

3.5 miles (66.8 total)

Man was it cold this morning, about 10-degrees. The water filters were frozen, frost on everything. My leather gloves were too cold. We broke camp to head to Dicks Creek Gap. Even though it was very cold, the sun was blazing. At the gap, I said goodbye and started to walk the 3½ miles to the Blueberry Patch in Hiawassee. After a mile, Sam from the Holiday Inn, picked me up, along with two other hikers in the van. Arrived at the hostel about lunch time. Went into town with a few other hikers in Gary’s borrowed van. Got back did laundry, ate pizza and caught up in my journal writing. Was really hoping Nut and Disco would make it tonight. Rosco (Swamp Fox) did make it. Helped Gary with some wiring and turned him on to tofu jerky.

Sitting around the table at the Blueberry Patch, an organic farm that has set up a hiker hostel. What a place! Gary and Lennie run a Taj Mahal of hostels. It has a bunkhouse, kitchen, wood stove, organic pizza that’s out of this world. They do just about everything for you.

3/10/98 Deep Gap Shelter

12.6 miles (63.3 total)

Kevin (Monkey Boy) spent a long time last night to talking to Paul (Duke). Paul just wasn’t having fun mentally or physically. So he decided to call it quits. Kevin and his brother, Tim (Prince of Darkness) divided up the group gear Paul had been carrying. I think Tim was taking it hard since he and Paul were classmates and had done a lot of the planning together. This morning, after a good nights sleep, we prepared to leave. Paul just sat on the bed of the hotel room, not sure what he was going to do now that he wasn’t hiking. I was torn between my enthusiasm for the hike and the heart-felt sadness that one of us was leaving the trail. I couldn’t imagine what would go through my head if I was to quit. I wished him luck in whatever he did.

Takin' a break

Even though the temperature was cold, the rain had stopped. It came to me that Brother’s Johnson would be a better trail name for Tim and Kevin. They liked the sound of it. We got our lift out of town and back to the trail. We finally got some sun, at least intermittently. The best part of the day was Tray Mountain. We saw it from below, a white, cloud covered peak. We have discovered that the highest peak we can see, is probably the one we go over next.

A cold view off Tray Mountain

When we got the top, the sun was bright and we could see all the frost-covered trees just lit up. It almost looked like someone had painted them all. Several times hiking up, we met other hikers that told of freezing wind gusting up at the shelter. When we got there, in just the time it took to sign the register, we froze our hands. We finally decided not to ever camp on top of peaks this early in the year. It was a long day but these young guys can stride loooooong!

We made Deep Gap Shelter by 3 o’clock. A very nice timber-frame shelter. But it was cold! A wonderful dinner of spaghetti with cheesecake for all. Frodo was an older hiker that had gotten 1500 miles last year before his knee got bad, had surgery and is out to try it again. Someone had accidentally taken his tent stakes, so he was going to Hiawassee to at least get some large nails. Tim, Kevin and I compared notes and promised to keep in touch.

Brother's Johnson outside Deep Gap shelter

3/9/98 Helen, GA

2.2 miles (50.7 total)

Again today, the rain always seems to let up when the sun tries to make an appearance. The group consensus is to go into Helen GA, because of a winter storm predicted for tonight. Nut used his cell-phone to call several motels to see if they could take a bunch of wet and cold hikers. Prince of Darkness, Monkey Boy and Duke are heading into town so Duke can decide what to do. He’s not having fun, his knee is in bad shape, and money’s short.

Biz, Duke, Monkey Boy, Prince of Darkness, & John
pack up at the Blue Mountain Shelter

As we headed out from the shelter, I had planned on skipping town and keep to the trail. But I was having a lot of fun hiking with Prince of Darkness and Monkey Boy. If it wasn’t for Duke’s problems, they had not planned on stopping in many towns along the way to keep expenses down. Because I figure they will be moving ahead of me when I stop in Hiawassee, I’d might go into town so I could to hike with them a couple more days. Plus I really hadn’t had a short mileage day. Helen GA, is supposed to be an alpine-theme tourist village.

The hike down to Unicoi Gap was about two miles. We thought we should split up into groups of two to make hitch-hiking the 10 miles into town easier. But, to our surprise, an empty dump truck stopped immediately to take the whole group into town. What a way to travel!

Monkey Boy, John & Nut get shelter from the wind
in our dump truck ride

The dump truck pulled right into the driveway of the Helendorf River Inn. The whole gang split up into two rooms. We had every square-inch of ours covered with wet gear, including clothes, boots, sleeping bags, and even our tents. After doing laundry, I stopped in the lobby to write in my journal and drink as much hot cider as I could, up next to the fireplace.

Later we all went to eat at Paul’s Restaurant. The menu was a lot more expensive than the restaurant looked. Some decided to have a beer, and then look for something cheaper. As a vegetarian, I didn’t find much on the menu because steak and seafood were their specialty. We asked at the Inn where the local hang out was, and one guy told us the Southside Bar and Grill. It was a long walk near the edge of town, but it was worth it. It was a working man’s place, with big portions and cheap prices. Monkey Boy later saw the guy that had recommended the place over at the bar, and the guy also offered to give us a lift back to the trail in the morning.

3/8/98 Blue Mountain Shelter

11.6 miles (48.5 total)

This morning it was still raining, but looked like it might let up. We started out in good spirits but the big question was Duke’s knee. We made it to Low Gap Shelter, about 5½ miles, without much problem and decided to head on to Blue Mountain Shelter. The profile map looked relatively flat.

At least it wasn't raining

The weather continued to get be better and a huge section of the trail followed an old logging road. That meant a nice, easy up-hill grade. We passed waterfalls too numerous to count. Some went under forest road through stone culverts, but a lot just cut across the top. The terrain here is so steep, it’s hard to decide if something is a creek or a waterfall. We’ve all remarked at how one slip and you would have a hell of a fall unless you hit a tree or a rock on the way down.

While maintenance of the trail looks like a hard task, the building of the trail seems almost impossible. At places, it’s carved directly out of the cliff walls.

The weather continued to get better. At one point, we were in short sleeves and thinking about stripping to shorts because it was so hot and humid. We began to see our first views of the countryside, most of which has been covered up by fog.

Funny thing about the trail is that no matter how easy the trail is, that last mile to the shelter seems like a killer. As we got closer to Blue Mountain Shelter, the terrain had a northwest feel, lots of moss, ferns, and wet rock. I envy anyone who can get over these sections unharmed.

All day we had only seen two sets of boot prints in the muddy trail ahead of us. So we were a little surprised to find a full shelter. In residence were Biz, April Moon, John Galliger, Swamp Fox, Disco, and Nut. After spending last night in the rain, we were looking forward to a dry shelter. Needless to say, I’m getting pretty good at setting up the tent in the rain. The shelter had a very short overhang, so they had tried to rig up tarps to cover the front, and block some of wind and rain. I think I stayed dryer in my tent.

After get my tent up, my gear inside and getting water from a nearby spring, the gang in the shelter made room for us to cook our dinner. They were a fun group of people. Biz was traveling with her two dogs, that barked at us from underneath the shelter. John was hiking a couple of weeks with April Moon. I knew her from the AT98 email list also. Disco and Nut were traveling together, while Swamp Fox thruhiked in ’93. Even though I couldn’t eat the whole thing, my first pot of dehydrated spaghetti sauce was very good. I didn’t have any trouble finding someone to finish it off. Nut was complaining about their expensive freeze-dried dinner. He called the meal "Katman-do-do" because it reminded him of cat puke.

Even though I still had wet clothes on, my belly was full, and it felt good to be crowded into the shelter with these new friends. John had a weather radio which said severe thunderstorms were headed our way. I’m sure that this shelter has a great view, but with this bad weather, I felt we were kind of exposed. I said my "good-nights," and headed off to bed. As I lay there trying to fall asleep during the storm, I thought the tent poles were going to break. The wind roared from several directions, beating on the tents with hard gusts of wind. I prayed all night that my tent would survive the storm.

3/7/98 Whitley Gap Shelter

6.2 miles (36.9 total)

Originally, I had planned on doing a short day, hiking to a campsite about a mile past the Walasi-Yi Center. But while Prince of Darkness, Monkey Boy, and Duke were finishing up their laundry, they talked me into hiking with them to Whitley Gap Shelter, a little over six miles away. We didn’t leave the Center until after two o’clock in the afternoon, which meant we would have to really hoof it to make it before dark. It had been raining hard all morning, but that afternoon, it had let up just a bit. Their enthusiasm was infections, so I said yes and we took off.

We made pretty good time until the last climb. We decided that we need to petition the ATC to rename it 'Prince-of-Darkness Mountain.' It was a real kick-butt climb but only a mile long. By the time we reached the side trail to the shelter, the rain was coming down harder and it was getting late. Duke has been lagging behind a lot because of severe knee problems he’d been having. You could tell from the mud on his longjohns, that he’d fallen several times. 'It just give’s out sometimes,' he said. Duke asked for a flashlight, so we could go on without him.

I was getting worried, so I almost ran the 1.2 mile approach trail to the shelter. Because I was the first one to the shelter, I dumped my backpack, then ran back up the trail to help carry some of Duke’s gear. Compared to the shelters I’d seen, this one didn’t lift my spirits at all. The shelter opening faced the wind, so the entire floor was drenched. The guys shared a 3-man tent they could set up 'inside' the shelter, so I pitched mine nearby in the driving rain. I was tired, soaked, hungry, and miserable. After changing into some dry clothes, I skipped dinner and fell asleep by 7:00 o’clock.

3/6/98 Goose Creek Cabins

14.3 miles (30.7 total)

It was so humid, I had a poor night of sleep. I felt clammy even stripped down but it was too cold not to be in the sleeping bag. By morning, everything in the tent was damp. Because I wasn’t sleeping well anyway, I decided to go ahead and get up early. It was still dark by the time I ate breakfast and finished packing. But I had to wait until the sun came up to put the tent away. I was on the trail by 7:15.

Crossing the highway that went to Suches was a little scary because of the thick fog. You ran across just hoping that a car wasn’t coming. Besides the map profile being wrong (it was easier), I really kept a good pace. All day I thought the younger guys from the last shelter would catch me. I made the 11 miles to Slaughter Gap by one o’clock. But that last mile up Blood Mountain was a killer.

The Blood Mountain Shelter is an old rock, two-room building built by the CCC in the 1930’s. Even though it’s on the registry of historic buildings, the fireplace is bricked over and I heard there are plans to board it up completely. The inside was dark, damp, and drafty. Not a very inviting place. I kept looking for a spot to put up my tent but the ground is all flat rock or the soil was too thin for tent stakes to hold. I stayed an hour waiting for other hikers to show up because I didn’t know if I wanted to stay. Gypsy Man and Baloo were right on my heels but they decided to go on. Finally, I decided not to wait any longer and head for Neels Gap.

What a nightmare decent over a jungle-gym of wet rocks. I passed Baloo half-way down because his knees were so sore from the climb. Thank God for my Liki poles, probably my most valued possession these first couple of days. What a day! Over fourteen miles traveled and I feel every mile on this old body.

I walked into the Walasi-Yi Center at Neels Gap, dead on my feet. Because the hostel wasn’t open this year, I decided to stay at the Goose Creek Cabins nearby. The nice people at the Center helped me phone them for a ride, but it would be past closing time before Keith could pick me up. In the mean time, I did laundry and shopped throughout their outfitting store. Called Mom to tell her I made it to my first maildrop and that I was doing fine. I saw Baloo briefly but, even though it was still raining, he must have decided to hike a little farther down the trail. I was glad they let me hang out inside, out of the rain until I was picked up.

Keith made me feel welcome on our ride down the highway to the cabins. The only other hiker I knew staying there was Gypsy Man, but he was already sharing a cabin with someone else. Keith drove up a steep dirt road that looked down onto the lodge. The cabin was basic, but homey, with wood paneled walls, a very-firm mattress covered by a quilt, a propane heater and stove, bathroom and a complete kitchen.

After cleaning up, I walked down to the lodge to get a Coke and see who else decided to get out of the rain. Gypsy Man was sitting around the television watching the weather channel with a couple of other thru-hikers. Both of them were taking the trail very easy because they were hiking with their dogs. Keith offered to get us some barbecue carryout, which we all gladly ordered. It was nice to sit in a warm, dry place to write in my journal.

On another note, Snore Bear seems to be "enchanted." Gypsy Man said he had met Snore Bear many times on the trail, but never actually 'seen' him hiking. And when he mentioned this to other hikers, he found out that no one else seemed to have ever seen him hiking, even though he appears to fly down the trail. He never passed me the day I left Springer Mountain Shelter, but somehow I passed his tent this morning. Come to think of it, he had pitched it near a road. Snore Bear just arrived and checked in for three days because of bad knees. He said something about having me look at them because of my physical therapy background. We’ll see if he catches me again.

I’ll spend the night going over gear and the food in my mail drop, then decide if I need to send anything home. Probably will spend way too much money at the center tomorrow.

3/5/98 Gooch Gap campsite

8.7 miles (16.4 total)

It started to rain as I fell asleep last night and didn’t stop until 8 o’clock this morning. I had a restless night because I was so hot. All night I kept taking clothes off until I ended up stripping down completely. What a change from the previous night.

Got an earlier start this morning, about 8:30, and made good time all day. That was despite the fact that during the climbs, it seemed I stopped I every 20-feet to rest and catch my breath. The trail went through some dramatic changes throughout the day. First, there was rock uphill. Then came long stretches of muddy through forest blow-downs that looked like an Air Force bombing run, and then through something like a rain forest, only colder.

I was surprised I got to the shelter a few hours earlier than expected. The Gooch Gap Shelter was completely full despite the early time of the day. The younger guys I met at Springer decided to make it a short day because of tent problems. This was the first time I had met Smokie, another thru-hiker.

Because the shelter is built on a steep incline, I had to travel farther down the trail to Gooch Gap to find a place to pitch my tent. The Gap was shrouded in fog, with it sprinkling still but kind of hot and humid. It was kind of lonely down there all by myself. I climbed the trail back to the shelter several times to hang out with everyone else. Planting Flowers found a place to pitch a tent that I hadn’t thought of, right on the trail. I think everyone was down because of tired bodies and wet weather.

I finally retreated back to my campsite as evening approached. Tomorrow I’ll push a hard 12 miles to Blood Mountain. Hopefully, I’ll get another early start.

3/4/98 Hawk Mountain Shelter

7.5 miles (7.7 total)

What a great day, but it started out very cold. Jesse had planned on hiking with me for the first three days, getting picked up in Suches, Georgia. I didn’t have any more of those first day jitters yesterday because I was too worried about Jesse and the weather. I was able to convince him on hiking the trail back to the car at the Visitor Center. Because of the cold weather, he really wasn’t prepared. Jesse had lived in Atlanta these last four years, but he just didn’t imagine it would snow in Georgia.

The hose to my water bag froze last night, but it was a sunny morning. I hoped the sun would be with us all day. Within an hour on the trail, I was taking clothing layers off. And the melting snow made the trail a little muddy. I passed the kilt-wearing Scotsmen soon after leaving the shelter. Brodder was in a lot of pain because of a twisted ankle. If that wasn’t bad enough, both men had packs that had to weight over 80 pounds. I wished them good luck.

Snore Bear watching us leave Springer Mountain Shelter

Today, walking the path through the forest, I really got the feeling of the "green tunnel" the books talk about. The trail was easy to follow and not as strenuous as yesterday. Walked a bit with Treasure, Gypsy Man, and Planting Flowers, who is also from the AT98 list. She recognized me because I always signed my e-mail with my trail-name, Dragon’s Breath. Along the way, we stopped at Long Creek Falls to take pictures. Gypsy Man is a south-bound thru-hiker that started 7 months ago.

Someone left a whole bag of cheerios in Stover Creek shelter

Because of deep snow in Tennessee, he flip-flopped to Springer to do his last 400 miles northward. Gypsy Man seems friendly, good-natured, and doesn’t seem to mind our questions. Whenever we took a break, he would tell us things he had already learned while on the trail. Planting Flowers is a 24-year old from New Hampshire and is very enthusiastic about her thru-hike. Treasure is from Louisiana and only plans to hike up to Hot Springs, North Carolina, where her VW van is waiting. Believe it or not, her real name is Treasure.

Treasure standing in front of Long Creek Falls

We all spent a very relaxing afternoon and evening at the Hawk Mountain Shelter. I had planned on hiking farther, but decided just to take it easy. I had thousands of miles ahead of me. A few of the younger guys I had met last night seemed eager to put in big miles from day one. Gypsy Man built a fire and tried to explain some of the eating rituals he had developed on the trail. Even though the timber-framed shelter had plenty of room, Planting Flowers and myself put up our tents, each for our own reasons. I know I snore, and hope not to alienate other hikers.

As I write this by flashlight, it’s 40-degrees outside and overcast with a real possibility of rain. At 8:00, it’s just about time for bed. I still find it hard to believe this trail goes all the way to Maine.

3/3/93 Springer Mountain Shelter

8.3 miles (0.2 total)

Jesse and I got a very late start on Monday, leaving Atlanta. We didn't arrive at Amicalola Falls State Park till some time after 1:00 in the morning. Although it wasn't snowing, the wind was brutal. We couldn't see well enough to know which of the buildings was the thru-hiker shelter. So instead of camping, we slept in the car. Boy was it cold! Jesse would wake up every hour to start the car to run the heater. There was a dusting of snow in the morning on everything.

We decided to celebrate the start of my thru-hike by driving up to the Amicalola Falls Lodge for breakfast at the Maple Restaurant. Bobbi, our waitress, turned out to be married to a thru-hiker, so she gave us a "hiker special." We did an AYCE (all you can eat) meal for only $1.50. Is this a great country or what! We drove back to the Visitor Center to sign the hiker register and start the 8.1 mile East Ridge Trail to Springer Mountain, the official start of the Appalachian Trail. My pack weight with fuel, food for a week, and water was 43 pounds. Not bad but it could be lighter.

The hike was hard but I kept a good pace. Snow covered most of the ground but the sun would tease us occasionally. When we stopped at the Falls, a few hikers passed us heading down after spending the night on Springer Mountain. They were from Wisconsin and said if they wanted to camp in weather this cold, they could have stayed home. We also met Ottie and his hiking buddy several times heading up the trail. They were out for a week and taking it easy. We finally got a chance to talk to him at the Black Mountain Shelter. Ottie was a past thru-hiker and he gave us a lot of encouragement. "Have Fun!" There was another would-be thru-hiker from Florida resting at the shelter. He just stayed covered by his sleeping bag the whole time and didn't look like was moving anytime soon. The only muffled words he said from underneath his sleeping bag were "Florida doesn't have mountains."

A view of Georgia on the way up Springer Mountain

At Springer Mountain, we met Mad Max and Brodder. They wanted to be the first thru-hikers to wear kilts the whole way to Katahdin. If they weren't standing there taking pictures, I would have almost walked by the official start of the Appalachian Trail. It wasn't what I'd expected. You wouldn't have realized you were on a mountain peak, and the plaque is mounted at ground level. After a few quick pictures, we wanted to get out of the bitter wind.

Dragon's Breath and Frozen Mexican
at the beginning of the AT

At the Springer Mountain Shelter, we met up with Prince of Darkness and Monkey Boy, who are brothers, and their friend, Duke. I knew Snore Bear from the AT98 list, an e-mail list on Trailplace to share questions, ideas, and thoughts. And Treasure and Gypsy Man amazed me by strolling in after-dark. Everyone crowded the picnic table to cook and talk. My dinner was edible, the stove worked fine and the company was interesting.

We stood near the campfire, warming our hands and talking about our expectations and hopes on the trail. Jesse got everyone laughing when he decided his trail name should be Frozen Mexican. It was a tight squeeze to get both Jesse and I into my tent, leaving our backpacks leaning against a nearby tree. It was cold but I still had more clothes I could have put on. I got to bed about 8:00 and slept soundly. It got down to the 20's and a little bit more snow fell during the night. Jesse said I snore.

Getting ready for the AT

Living in Kansas City and getting ready for the trail.

I'm not sure if I ever thought much about the Appalachian Trail before that fatefull fall day in 1996. I think someone I worked with did a working vacation on one of the AT trail crews once. And I'm not sure why I picked up this particular book, "Walking the Appalachian Trail" by Larry Luxenburg. It kind of had a cool cover. After 30 minutes of reading it in the bookstore, I had to have it.

Once I got home I learned all about the Appalachian Trail and those hardy souls called 'thruhikers' that carry a backpack the whole 2160-mile length in 6 months. I found what seemed like kindred spirits in these hikers. The seed of doing a thruhike was planted.

Also in the same week, on an episode of "TRAILSIDE" on PBS, the show had given several AT thruhikers cameras to make a video diary. I was captivated. By the end of the week I had decided to actually do a thruhike. I had no financial obligations hanging over me and I was single. My supervisor at work agreed to let me take a 6 month personal leave of absence to do this 'trip of a lifetime'. I mean, if I was going to do something like this, now was a great time.

After my initial research of planning a thruhike, I decided I didn't have enough time to prepare for a spring of 1997 departure, so I set my sites on 1998. Throughout the following months I poured over product information and camping catalogs, read everything I could find on hiking and the Appalachian Trail, examined every piece of gear at all the local outfitters, and immersed myself in the Appalachian Trail cyber-culture. I have to admit my best supporters came from hiker friends I met through the internet.

One of the best sources of AT thruhiking, especially if you don't live near the trail, is Trailplace.com by Dan "Wingfoot" Bruce, himself an 8-time thruhiker. Besides tons of information about planning a thruhike, I was able to join a daily email list in which I could ask questions, read comments, or met other AT hikers. It was through this list I met Pat "Give Me Chocolate" Villeneuve who happened to live in nearby Lawrence, KS. She became my biggest supporter and dispenser of sage advice about thruhiking.

I had originally planned on starting on March 1st, but because I wasn't finished packing and moving out of my apartment, I missed my flight. I finally arrived in Atlanta on Saturday, staying with Wayne and Peggy Johnson, relatives of mine I hadn't seen in decades. The plan was for me to meet up with a old friend I went to grade school and high school with, Jesse Medina, who also lived in Atlanta, and who was going to hike a few days with me.

So after a long goodbye to family and friends, we left the city late Sunday night for the 2 hour drive to Amicalola Falls. As my luck was going, we got lost and the weather got worse. We didn't arrive at the park until well after midnight. Not sure where to go, we settled in for the night inside the car.

Hot Air from Dragon's Breath

Hiking the 2160-mile Appalachian Trail

On a cold, winter day in early March of 1998, I began what some call "a trip of a lifetime." With a backpack full of brand new equipment, a friend and I started up the eight mile approach trail to Springer Mountain, the beginning of the Appalachian Trail. I didn't know what I was getting myself into, that's for sure. I was scared, nervous and excited. I knew deep down I could finish the six month hike, but "would I?" was the question.

The following blog entries are my unedited, daily journals, most written by candlelight, huddled in a shelter. I never want those memories, both good and bad, to fade with the years. You will read about beautiful days and spectacular sunsets, other hikers that I call lifelong friends, complete strangers helping someone in need, about sore muscles, blisters, aches and pains, and a lot about rain!

I miss the trail now. The simplicity of getting up, eating, hiking, eating some more, resting, then bed, is a far cry from the 'normal' life. There was an honesty on the trail that was refreshing. No one that lasted past those first weeks put on 'airs' or fed you a line. They were who they were. It didn't matter what sex, age, social standing, or career path, we were all thruhikers. This is my story. Enjoy!

I dedicated my thru-hike to my cousin Nancy,
who died before I could finish my hike.