8/13/87 Nairobi

night flight from Nairobi to Amsterdam

My last day in Kenya. I was up by 6am to watch the dawn light up the Kenyan landscape. By the time the train stopped in Nairobi, I really was feeling the sadness of leaving my friends.

Today was really a blur. We had a large farewell banquet with a lot of people in attendance. The whole semester was ending so fast. Unfortunately for me, my flight was scheduled to leave tonight. I barely had time to say a few tearful good-byes after dinner, before some of the NOLS staff drove me to the airport. My whole departure is only a foggy memory now. I still can’t believe it’s time to head back home.

I have made such good friends. And the semester has been nothing I thought it would be, but it was worth so much more. I saw and experienced Kenya like most people don’t.

8/12/87 Mombassa

on the 'night train' to Nairobi

Today was a quick bus ride to Mombassa. The whole day I kept thinking that tomorrow, I’ll be saying good bye to all my friends.

We took in a quick tour of Fort Jesus. But the museum in Lamu was much better than this one. We just stopped at a hotel sidewalk cafe to have a few beers and maybe something to eat.

Fort Jesus in Mombassa

A funny thing happened. A Kenyan woman in her twenties was walking sort of crazy down the street stark naked. It was obvious she was not of sound mind. We asked Mbugua about it and he said it was unusual but not rare. And unless she was destroying something, the police wouldn’t even look at her.

Mombassa skyline

At the train station, I said my good byes to Omari Bob. On the return trip to Nairobi on the night train, we were booked in a modern car. Very nice, slept four instead of six, and lots of shinny gadgets. I was very up for the trip but unfortunately not everyone else was. Most people crashed early. I splurged and got bedding for the night from the coachman. I must admit it was one of the best nights of sleep I’ve had here in Kenya.

Giant tusks made for the queen's visit

8/11/87 Malindi

another night at the Silversands in Malindi

Snorkeling is always done with the tide out, or at low tide. This morning after the usual breakfast of mendazis and samosas, we had a long walk along the beach. After so many days of rain, it was refreshing to have the sun on you. Along the way you pass a lot of the high-price resorts and some very expensive beach-front villas.

At the Malindi Marine Park, we loaded up on a glass-bottom dive boat. It used to be owned by Omari Bob but now owned by a friend of his. The boat headed out to the ocean side of the reef and slide through a gap that put us in a protected cove. Even before we got off the boat, I knew it was going to be incredible.

The boat driver was tossing pieces of bread over the side, creating a feeding frenzy of color. Fish of every color and size could be seen everywhere. Outside the boat you could hold a piece of bread up to your mask and have several fish go for it. So many bright colors, greens, blues, and reds. It was the best diving we’d had on the whole coast. Lots of variety of corals too.

After that, we walked to the snake farm, a little private reptile zoo. They had crocodile, lizards, turtles and a wide assortment of poisonous snakes. Heading back to town, we decided to have some ice cream. Yes, real ice cream. A few had banana splits, while I had scoops of lime, vanilla and chocolate. Just easing ourselves back into civilization.

Bob was kind enough to invite us all over to his house for dinner. He greeted us in his best attire, white Muslim robe, a nice suit, a colorful shawl and a kofia. Bob was a gracious host, but he served us too much food. We could choose from mendazis, chipotis with potato-beef stew, fresh bananas, coconut biscuits, rice cake and endless amounts of chai. After meeting all his family, we headed down the street to see his father. He’d been to ill to come to dinner. He was happy that we’d come and I’m sure Bob was glad too.

Our host, Omari Bob

Lisa, Bo, Maria, Annie and Angus enjoy mendazi and chapati

It was then time for more ice cream. While some people took a taxi, Bo, Becky, Mbugua and I decided to walk. Big mistake! I guess we walked down a street we shouldn’t have. One guy in the shadows asked us where we were going. We ignored him thinking he was just another taxi driver. He yelled again so we stopped. Coming out of the shadows you could tell he wasn’t a taxi driver, what with his uniform and rifle.

He grabbed Mbugua by the shirt and pushed him around while he was yelling at him. We all stuck with Mbugua because it was clear he didn’t want any trouble with us, just Mbugua. After about fifteen minutes of questioning Mbugua about his origins and what we were doing, the policeman let us go. We were all very relieved.

We stopped off at a place on the way to the bandas for a beer and laughed about it. Mbugua told us that if we weren’t with him, they would have slapped him around a little, and then ask him for fifty shillings. If he wouldn’t pay, he could get up to a month in jail charged with "aimless wandering" and a 300 shilling fine. Mbugua said it really wasn’t the policeman’s fault. He said it’s a shitty job and is very low paying. Plus he said its only in small towns that they hassle a lot of Kenyans.

Just as we arrived at the Silversands, we were stopped again. This time, a full jeep with about eight policemen jumped out as we were cutting between two of our bandas. They gave Mbugua a quick search. After we explained that these were our rooms and that Mbugua was a fellow student, they left us alone. They began to search the beach. One came back and told us to be very careful, "lots of rapes and robberies on the beach at night." What a way to end our day.

8/10/87 Malindi

beach-front bandas in Malindi

After rising early, we took a quick dhow ride to the jetty going to Makowe. When the bus arrived, we said all our good byes to the crew with some bear hugs and firm handshakes. Our bus was one of the large matatus. It had about sixty very narrow seats, plus they added another fifteen to stand in the isle for the trip to Malindi.

The dirt road had been turned into mud because of the heavy rains. Every time the bus moved to the side to pass oncoming traffic, we slide precariously close to the ditch on the side of the road. Unfortunately for me, I had an isle seat. A short fat Indian was practically sitting on my lap the three hours to the Tana River. There we got off the bus and as they drove it onto the river barge. We ended up helping to pull the barge across the river. After a break to fill up with gas, visit the banana and corn vendors and buy a few cookies at the dukas, we set out again.

This time I took a window seat but it wasn’t much better. The road was a little dryer and we made good time. Just outside of Malindi, we were stopped by a police road block. They were checking for overloaded buses, which ours was. All the people without a seat were told to get off and the driver was given a ticket. The bus later caught up with our thrown out passengers about a quarter mile down the road and they climbed back on the bus. So much for the law.

Malindi looks like a cross between Lamu and Mombassa. Our bandas are right on the ocean beach. For a shower and the use of the bar, we headed down the beach to the "Driftwood Club," very posh. After an expensive pizza dinner, we all finished with a few beers at the club.

Sunset over the Indian Ocean

8/9/87 Matindoni

last night in Matindoni

What can I say, more rain. Captain Athman decided he could take us into Lamu for the day if we wanted, which everyone did. It looked like it was clearing up. But no such luck. I’m glad I brought my umbrella even though only my head stayed dry. Just as we got close to Lamu, the wind picked up and it started to flood down. Captain Athman beached the dhow and we walked the rest of the way to Lamu.

The water was real warm but waist deep. By the time we all made it ashore, it stopped raining. Our luck. In Lamu, a lot of the shops were closed because it was Sunday and because it was around lunch time. I couldn’t find a wood shop that had chairs like I had seen before. Finally, I stopped back in the shop where I had bought my sarong and sandals. The woman there was so nice to me before. She recognized me right away and asked how my trip was. She saw me looking at her chair and asked if I wanted to buy it.

There was no way I could lug the whole thing back to the US on a plane, so I asked her if I could take measurements in case I wanted to build one myself. She told me to go ahead and even supplied me with a tape measure. The open spaces were woven with cotton string. The seat and back made a little more than a ninety degree angle. Around the opening in the back was a carved border.

We met up with the rest of Fosa’s crew, Sa’ad Kidogo, Sa’ad Kubwa, Arimani, Bacari and Abdula. The dhow trip back to Matindoni was just as wet. After awhile, you just gave up being dry and just tried to enjoy the rain. Felt like a summer rain back in Kansas City. As soon as we got back to the shamba, it was clean up time to get ready for the big farewell banquet.

We covered the common room with mats. Slowly, one by one, the crew began arriving. They were dressed as we’d never seen them, all clean with their best kofia and whitest robes. They were a sight. We all sat down together, students, instructors and crew. The food served was beans, rice and beef, and spiced tomatoes, all eaten Swahili style. We gathered around large serving plates and ate with our right hands. Ali Sha showed us one eating technique. Take a handful of rice, squeeze making a more solid piece, then pop it in your mouth using your thumb. It looked just as messy as any other way.

Omari Bob taking center stage.

After a very relaxing meal in which everyone was stuffed with food and chai, Lisa brought in some desserts than Captain Athman’s daughters had shown her how to make. One was a custard, and the other was a cake. Merle gave a "thank you" speech to the crew and added a farewell because this was his last course at NOLS Kenya and the coast. Charlie gave a small speech on behalf of the students. And Captain Athman spoke for the crew. They were paid with much ceremony and then the musicians were brought in. Two drummers, a tambourine and a hand-pumped organ, who sang and played an assortment of Kenyan, Swahili and Indian songs into the wee hours of the night.

One of the crew with his sisters.

Best dancing must go to Abdula and his belly dancing routine, receiving a little cash from a happy patron. That night it rained some of the hardest it had in the past several days. I was glad Dave and I opted to sleep inside the shamba instead of setting up the tent.

8/8/87 Matindoni

back in Matindoni

Morning didn’t look promising at all. A rainy haze covered the horizon in all directions. As soon as we got under way the crew put up a tarp for us to stay under. It kept us dryer and out of most of the wind but dry we weren’t. But the crew had it worse. They stood out in the rain the entire seven hour trip. Poor Ali Sha forgot his poncho. But he still kept his sense of humor and smile, even while he shivered.

Their passengers did our best to keep occupied, playing word games and the like. Slowly, we all became drenched to the bone and shriveled like prunes. It was great how Jogo kept clowning for us the whole trip. As we neared Matindoni, the crew’s spirits showed even more improvement. The weather was breaking, at least the rain was stopping. And I know they were anxious to get some dry clothes, warm food and to see their families. A lot of their children came out to help us unload the dhows.

The trip had taken a lot out of us. We were fed again at Baba Bousi’s and headed back to the shamba for an early night.

8/7/87 Pate Island

near Mtongawanda on Pate Island

Because of the tide, our departure of 8am was pushed to 11am. After taking the kayaks and sailboards back to storage we just sat around. The heat made it seem like an endless wait. Finally, we said good bye and headed out. Not only were we heading into the wind, but against the current too. The crews poled the boats all the way to the Boteler Islands. With the high winds, comes naturally high waves. The sailing was a roller coaster ride. After soaking several pages of a book I was trying to read, I gave up and put it up.

At first, a wave would crash over the bow every couple of minutes. But as we entered the wide open area of the channel, they came more frequently. Before, in the lighter winds, the sail was allowed to push against the mast. But now the crew would have to untie the sail, bring it around in front of the mast and then tie it back down when coming about. It only took a couple of seconds but it was impressive. Our crew was full of experience, almost all of them in their forties. The Biashara crew included Captain Omar Usafu, Muhammud, Ali Sa’ad, Ali Sha and Jogo.

Ali Sha

It got very cloudy, combined with the wind and the wetness to make for some cold passengers. We finally landed at Mtongawanda on Pate Island in the late afternoon. Dave and I, remembering the thorny tent spot we had the last time we were here, decided to pitch our tent on the beach. The rain started to fall about 8pm and besides a few brief lapses, lasted well into the next day.

8/6/87 Kiwaiyu Island

last day on Kiwaiyu Island

Captain Athman and Omari Bob go to a wedding

For the last several nights, we could hear a lot of music, drums and singing in the village. They had been celebrating a marriage. Last night several of us were invited to join the festivities. I was completely mesmerized. With Captain Athman as our guide, we made our way through the village to an open square among many of the houses. Benches were provided for us to sit. It looked to be about five drums of varying sizes and something which made a cymbal like sound. There was no need for a light or a fire because of the moon was so bright. The palm trees were making their own sound in the gusty winds. And Venus could be seen over the trees in the night sky.

The sound now is almost deafening, and then suddenly a man jumps into the circle trying to dance to the incredible tempo. After what could only be seconds, he then points his head to someone in the circle surrounding him. The dancer is then quickly replaced by the one who was pointed at. Sometimes several people move into the circle spinning and gyrating at a break-neck speed. Women, covered with veils, seem excited to be chosen to dance. This frenzy continues till some are almost collapsing from the dancing. Then the music stops abruptly.

A man comes around with a glass and a pitcher of cold water. Some dancers are sweating profusely. After ten or twenty minutes, the whole process is repeated. I couldn’t figure out if the lyrics were the same for each song but the chants during the dance were. I knew it was going to happen, someone pointing to me to dance. I ended up spinning so fast I crashed into the women’s section of the circle. For a second I thought I had broken some social taboo by touching the women, but then they all started laughing so hysterically. In all I’d say there were fifty people in the circle and just as many spectators. By 1am, I was tired and left very pleased that I had come. I awoke about 4am to hear them still going strong.

Here I am, complete with kofia and kikoi

Most of the day was spent just passing the time. It was a special day for our crew celebrating an Islam holiday. They bought and slaughtered a goat for their feast. I spent most of the day just sitting on the beach. Most reluctantly I agreed to play in the last soccer game on Kiwaiyu. Because of injuries to some of our players and others had doubts about playing because the game had gotten serious, we barely had enough to start the game. I didn’t really like how the games with the locals had grown in importance.

I guess I really wasn’t surprised when we showed up at the field to find the entire Kiwaiyu team dressed in full team uniforms and a very good soccer ball. They won the coin toss, where they took the wind in the second half. We really didn’t have a chance. There were no easy shots on goal. All of the goals scored on me showed the depth and skill of the other team. They were miss-directed shots, quick shots, and shots up in the corner. When it was all over, we had lost 0-4.

The game did have it’s moments. The best was when Lisa, playing on the front line, took a hard shot and barely missed. I think they were surprised that a girl almost scored. I think I took it all in stride. Basically, we were out-classed and I knew it. We all just tried our best under the circumstances. Some complained at how rough the game had become, but I know soccer is a contact sport, no matter what anyone says. Plus, whether it was deliberate dirty playing or recklessness, some of our players were just as rough.

8/5/87 Kiwaiyu Island

at the Kiwaiyu Olympics

Today was the Kiwaiyu Olympics. The group divided into two groups, and we included the crews. Events were: the crabwalk-wheelbarrow medley, tallest sand castle building, three-legged relay holding an egg on a spoon using your teeth, and a change clothes relay. A close contest decided by the final event, the ever popular tug-of-war. The two teams were called "Visua Wadudu" (insect heads) and my team, "Attention, Attention. Please Try Again."

Becky coming from behind in the crab-walk.

I think our highlight of the games was the crews attempts at the wheelbarrow race. Even after showing them how to do it, the just didn’t get the concept. Normally our crews make their living hauling sand in their boats, so I should think they know what a wheelbarrow is. They laughed with us as much as at us. "Those crazy wazungus." We were leading coming into the tug-of-war, but just didn’t have enough pull power. After the Olympics were complete, we promptly tossed our judges, Maria and Margaret, into the ocean. We all then cooled off with some body surfing.

Some of the crew extend the lead showing the wazungus
how to do the wheel-barrow.

Today I had a good time sailboarding. I was able to control the board going out and coming back. I even ran with the wind. I think today was our last soccer game on Kiwaiyu, another tie 1-1. That brings our island record to 2-1-3.

Tonight several of us went to a local’s home for tea. Very different from my experience with the Maasai. We were politely ushered into the common room of the house, and we sat on woven benches. House light was a taa. The construction on the inside was very similar to the outside. Mangrove poles lashed to uprights about three inches apart, forming a tight network. Then it’s filled with mud and rock is pushed in. The roof is thatched with palm tree leaves.

Dave out on the sailboard while Becky watches from the shallows.

When our host was ready, we proceeded out into the courtyard, took our shoes off and sat on mats prepared for us. First, a small bowl of water was passed around to wash our right hand (the left hand is used for toilet hygiene, so is always "unclean"). On a serving tray in the center of the mats were cups for chai and a plate full of sweet fried dough covered with sugar. Our host served us but kept out of the way and his wife was almost never seen. After we had finished our cup of tea, we said thank you and said good bye.

8/3/87 Kiwaiyu Island

Ibex take flight from an old air field

The soccer players on Kiwaiyu are a lot better than on the other islands. I’ve been playing goalie, not because I love the position or that I’m good at it, but because I get too worked and agitated out on the field. Bo is our best player. He plays soccer, lacrosse and wrestling at Amherst. All the crew, Mbugua and Duritu are good. Some of the group have some skill but no team work. Most of the other team and our crew play in bare feet. And it doesn’t seem to hinder them at all.

Our second game was pretty bad. It poured for about five minutes at the very beginning of the game. The first goal came when they stole a soft pass back to me. The second two goals were kicked in by my own players. Even so we have the best record of any NOLS group to come to the coast since they started coming here.

Seven kilometers of white beach

The people seem real friendly. Our camping area was prepared for us, a choo (outhouse) put in and a large shade tree was propped up to provide a huge awning. They even have plans to add more shade trees. The only thing I don’t like about the place is not much fresh water. We can’t wash anything except in salt water. Your skin and clothes have a sticky feeling because of the salt. And I gave up long ago to keep sand out of my things. Impossible!

All our tents, cook fire and dining area, all under a living canopy.

On our dives, Dave is the expert marine biologist. He showed us a sea cucumber that looks like a rock. Last night I pointed the binoculars at the half moon. You could see some nice craters on the edge. I let Mbugua try the binoculars out and he was astonished. I told him that the craters were made by meteors hitting the surface. And that for us to see them, they had to be hundreds of miles across. He had never seen the craters before.

8/2/87 Kiwaiyu Island

Life here on Kiwaiyu is pretty laid back. A normal day begins anytime from 6am to 8am. The crew cooks mendazis. We all over eat but there’s always leftovers. Class comes about 9am, anything from sailboarding to tides to fish. About 11am we take one of the dhows out for snorkeling. Lunch is usually boiled eggs and cookies. After snorkeling, we head back down to the beach for some sailboarding. Then we might play a soccer game until dark. On Kiwaiyu, we’ve played two games, 2-1 and 0-3. Then it’s rice and vegetable stew, carrots, potatoes and cabbage. Some people play cards or read after dinner.

The Foza under full sail.

It has funny weather here. A storm can speed in, rain a couple of minutes and then it’s gone. Even so I’ve tried to sleep outside every night. I get up about 6am and go for a run along the ocean beach. It’s all I can do to keep from gaining weight. Those mendazis are so good! Most mornings while some people go sailboarding, I’ve been writing letters, catching up in my journal or preparing for my class on Islam. After a few morning classes, we take one of the dhows out for snorkeling.

Omari Bob

We head back towards Kiwaiyu Bay and to the Boteler Islands to dive. Snorkeling is a blast. Even though the water is a little murky, you can see a lot. One thing I’ve noticed was that most of the fish are yellow and green, with a few smaller ones neon. I the tide pools, we found anemone and sea urchins. I fed an anemone a snail and a starfish but it let each go. Little hermit crabs are everywhere. I found one that was smaller than a fingernail.

Other shore wildlife were skinks and large six inch, green and yellow striped crabs. They all seemed to move sideways. These are a drastic difference from the pink crabs found by the thousands along the beach near camp.

As we head back, the crew throw over inner tubes to drag behind the dhows. Something only for the strong as the dhow moves pretty fast through the water. Omari Bob is the #1 lunatic on this trip. His favorite sayings are "attention, attention", "eny eny eny eny moo eny moo" and "unapenda?" Because the Kenyan coast is visited by so many Europeans, Bob can speak English, German, Italian, French and of course, Swahili and Arabic. He can mimic almost anyone’s voice or accent.

A little fishing using Angus as bait

Yesterday I watched the crew make mendazi. Mix four parts flour, one part sugar, a third part yeast, a half part oil, and add water. Knead dough until it opens up when cut. Some bubbles should appear inside the dough. Roll out into 6"-8" rounds, about ½" thick and cut into fourths. Sit out overnight. Deep fry in boiling corn oil.

8/1/87 Kiwaiyu Island

Last night after we had a crab dinner, a bunch of us slept out on the beach. It was great until it started to rain. We got an early start this morning. As before, the dhow ride was great, even a little exciting. We hit some choppy waves when we reached a spot where the channel opened out to the Indian Ocean.

A small dhow sailing by Kiwaiyu Island

The dhows just made the tide because the channel is very shallow in places. I couldn’t have imagined a better place. Looking down from camp as the group and crew unloaded the dhows, it almost had a 'Robinson Crusoe' feel to it.

Unloading the dhows for our camp on Kiwaiyu

The sun is intense but the water is nice and cool, especially the ocean side. Before dinner, I took one of the sailboards out. I didn’t forget much of my lessons but I simply don’t have any sailing sense. After a while, I gave up and paddled back to shore.

Dinner was the usual rice and vegetables plus an added treat of fried sea bass. Evening entertainment included a bunch of attempts at limbo. Abdula was the best but the crew pestered you until everyone tried it. I really want to get to know the crews better. I’m going to try and teach a class to the group on Islam. And I might get a chance to teach a math class at the local school.